by Geri Bain for Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

You don’t have to be a country music fan to tap your feet to the rich music scene here. The creativity spills over into its art, cuisine, and decor. And of course, there’s that famous “hot chicken” and barbecue and a surprising number of authentic ethnic eateries. No wonder so many reunions, conventions and bachelor and bachelorette parties happen here.

To get in the mood for my trip, I watch “It All Begins with a Song,” a documentary that features songwriters performing and talking about their music, the creative process, and the unique role  Nashville has had in their lives.

The film leads me to expect live music everywhere 24/7, and sure enough, there’s a band setting up at the airport when I land at noon, and there’s live music at shopping malls and clubs all around the city.  The iconic experience is bar- and band-hopping along Lower Broadway, a.k.a. Honky Tonk Highway. Here, dozens of bars serve up live music, often on multiple floors, from 10 a.m. until the wee hours of the morning. Most do not have a cover charge or minimum. 

One of my favorite Honky Tonk Highway spots is the Ernest Tubb Record Shop. Opened by the charismatic Tubb (a.k.a. the Texas Troubadour) in 1947 before country records were widely sold, his shop quickly expanded to become a leading retail and mail-order country music record outlet and a low-key performance venue/bar with its own (still-operating) live radio show. Hank Williams, Johnny Cash and Elvis Presley were among those who would stop by and perform after their Grand Ole Opry appearances. 

A band is playing amped up music with a captivating beat as I enter Ernest Tubb’s Record Shop and a duo is performing on acoustic guitars in the back room. I listen for a bit, use the QR code to send a tip, and then head up to the fifth floor, where the roof bar affords a birds-eye view of the neon-lit street. It’s December and nippy though, so the outside bar is closed. Back inside, the bar/record shop feels like a mini-museum with vintage vinyl records for sale and displays of an Ernest Tubb Nudie suit (named for its designer Nudie Cohn, not for the amount of skin shown), a guitar with his name inset in pearl, a note from Johnny Cash, photos, and other memorabilia. (We learned after our visit that the Ernest Tubb Record Shop closed temporarily.) 

After bar-hopping, it’s an easy walk back to my Nashville home, the boutique 79-room Fairlane Hotel. While it’s smack in the center of town and a short walk to most of the city’s attractions, when I tuck in to sleep that night there is zero noise. Plus I love my room’s floor-to-ceiling window walls, colorful mid-century modern decor, and the works of local artists (subtly for sale) throughout the public spaces, part of the hotel’s mission to connect with local culture.

The next day, I set out to ground myself in some local history (Nashville is more than music). I walk up to the hilltop Tennessee Statehouse and then stroll into Bicentennial Mall State Park, created in 1996 to celebrate 200 years of statehood. I follow a self-guided map to the 200-foot granite map of the state. Then I find my way to the Pathway of History where pillars mark key dates on one side of a 1,400 foot long walkway and a timeline of events, quotes and commentary are engraved run in parallel a three-foot-tall granite wall on the other. Among the interesting factoids I pick up is that the word “Tennessee” is thought to come from a Native American name meaning place where water meets—describing its strategic location at the confluence of rivers. 

At the edge of the park, the Tennessee State Museum presents an easy-to-follow narrative of the state’s history with eye-catching artifacts like a full-size cutaway log cabin, a model of a Conestoga Wagon, and the hat Tennessean Andrew Jackson wore at his 1829 presidential inauguration. 

That evening at a Liquor Lab mixology class, I learn the most effective and theatrical techniques for shaking cocktail ingredients including, importantly, how to give a strong twist to seal the shaker tightly. We mix three concoctions; my favorite is a spiked hot chocolate topped with crushed peppermint and whipped cream. Dinner is not part of most classes but happily mine is catered by the award-winning Peg-Leg Porker, a family-run restaurant/caterer, and I get my first scrumptious taste of classic Nashville barbecue.

A highlight of my trip is a visit to the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum. Dolly Parton is one of my heroes, and there’s a major exhibit devoted to her (running through September 2026). Watching a video interview, I learn that the song “Coat of Many Colors” refers to a true time when classmates made fun of her patchwork coat. Displays of her exuberant outfits, her guitars, the books she wrote and videos of performances and interviews convey a well-rounded picture of her work as a singer, song writer, businesswoman and philanthropist. 

The permanent collection is equally lively, intimate and insightful. It is laid out chronologically with listening stations and displays illustrating the evolution of country music along with costumes, instruments and memorabilia of individual artists from the Carter Family to Elvis and Jelly Roll. Especially touching is a display of Roseanne Cash’s childhood drawings and writings, outfits and a video of her performing. 

I’m drawn to the Taylor Swift Education Center, a two-story, 7,500-square-foot learning space within the museum which was opened in October 2013 with a $4 million gift from Taylor Swift to fund educational programs. I gravitate to a “Songwriting Station” which invites young visitors to create their own lyrics and providing markers and coloring sheets about musical instruments. A songwriting camp, craft classes and musical performances and talks are offered, but not during my visit. Next time I’ll plan ahead!

For lunch, I make my way to the nearby Assembly Food Hall which features everything from Vietnamese pho to Hawaiian poke. I’m excited to try the renowned Prince’s Hot Chicken but, coward that I am, I order the medium spice level because I’ve been warned the three hotter levels will burn through your entire digestive system. My chicken is delicious, tongue-tingling and sinus-clearing but not painful. 

My next stop is the National Museum of African Music, which had its ceremonial opening on January 18, 2021, Martin Luther King Jr. Day, with the museum opening to the public on January 30, 2021. It may well be the only museum dedicated to preserving and celebrating the history and impact of African American music genres. 

At the ticket desk, I receive an RFID wristband; this allows me to download playlists I create throughout the museum which are emailed to me. Exhibits trace the history of African-American music from spirituals and gospel and their roots in indigenous African music to jazz, R&B and hiphop. I find it hard to move on from the interactive stations, especially the jazz table, where I play with layering on instruments and styles in the way a jazz musician might.  

A short walk from here is the Ryman Auditorium, the home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943 to 1974. Outside the Ryman are bronze statues of stars including Loretta Lynn and Charley Pride. On a guided tour, I learn that the pew-like seats and stained glass windows come by their church feeling honestly. The building started its life as the Union Gospel Tabernacle in 1892. It was built by Thomas Ryman, a onetime hard-partying riverboat captain who “saw the light” and was inspired to build this grand center for religious revivalist meetings. 

Over time, it hosted more concerts than church meetings and became known as The Ryman Auditorium, thanks to Lula C. Naff, the gutsy general manager from 1920 to 1955. She saved the building from the wrecking ball by booking A-list entertainers and lecturers and eventually  arranged for the Grand Ole Opry radio show to broadcast live from here. 

In the early days of radio, this show was the only one broadcasting country music around the country. (The original Grand Ole Opry radio show began in 1925, broadcast from a WSM studio in Nashville’s National Life & Accident Insurance building.) The show drew top talent to Nashville and effectively kicked off the city’s growth into the musical center (“Music City”!) it is today. The exhibits, such as Johnny Cash’s and June Carter’s outfits, are cool, but the most fun is the chance to ham it up for a souvenir photo, included in the tour price, on the very stage where Elvis Presley, Patsy Cline, and more recently, Bruce Springsteen, Lizzo and Taylor Swift have performed.  

Nashville isn’t only about Country Music. In the evening, I attend a performance by Trisha Yearwood at the Schermerhorn Symphony Center. She is accompanied by the Nashville Symphony, which prides itself on its mastery of diverse musical genres. The acoustics here are so good that without amplification voices can be heard in all parts of the nearly 2,000 seat hall. 

On my last evening, I experience a show at the modern “new” home of the Grand Ole Opry, featuring Ashley McBryde, Riders in the Sky and five other acts. This venue is more than twice the size of the Ryman, with more than 4,000 seats. Interestingly, when people talk about the Grand Ole Opry, they aren’t talking about a place; they’re talking about the musical variety radio show which is still broadcast with live audiences in attendance, so we get to see how this radio show is produced. Commercials between acts, read by the announcer, and the “On Air” signs are reminders that this still is a live radio show.

More than twice the size of the Ryman, the Grand Ole Opry House has more than 4,000 seats. Commercials between acts, read by the announcer, and the “On Air” signs are reminders that this still is a live radio show.

The highlight of the evening for me is the pre-show backstage tour; I get a kick out of seeing the dressing rooms and mailboxes of Carrie Underwood, Garth Brooks and other country music icons. My tour even gets glimpses of the Gatlin Brothers and Ashley McBryde strolling through the halls before their performances.

Nashville, of course, is about more than making music. All that inventiveness extends naturally into the food, cocktail and cultural scenes. Chocolate can be high art as I learn at a chocolate-making session at Poppy & Peep, a father-daughter owned company that makes handcrafted small-batch bonbons and confections that are both playful and flavorful. The workshop steps through process of turning cocoa beans into chocolate and then places us in workstations with food coloring and paint brushes to create our own bonbon designs.

This city also takes its coffee and cafes seriously. Among the acclaimed small batch brewers is 8th & Roast. I attend their “seed-to-cup” class, where I learn about their alliances with family farms that grow their beans and the various types of roasts, and participate in a traditional “coffee cupping” where we “slurp” and taste ten brews. 

Nashville’s foods range from Michelin starred restaurants to casual barbecue joints. The city is also home to the largest Kurdish community in the U.S. along with many other immigrant groups, and this makes for some wonderfully authentic ethnic eateries. I head out of downtown into the neighborhoods to dine at Alebrije, a Mexican restaurant, where the mole sauce takes me back to Oaxaca, Mexico and taste my first Uzbek cooking at Uzbegim, a Michelin recommended restaurant, where I enjoy Tandir samosa, a savory pastry with spiced minced meat and veggies. 

Among my favorites is Edessa Restaurant in “Little Kurdistan.” When I walk in, practically every table is taken, and several large groups have tantalizing spreads of kebobs, lamb shank, and sauces laid out. The food is done to perfection and the decor is authentic; a large painting on the wall is of the co-owner’s hometown in Turkey.

As I reflect on my Nashville getaway, what most impresses me is that the openness and collaboration that leads to great music seems to bubble over into the entire culture. Perhaps that explains the friendly, welcoming vibe that makes the city such a joy to visit. 

Travel Tips: 

Carry your id with you if you’re heading out to the bars—most are strict about requiring ID, even if you are obviously well over 21.  

Plan to tip musicians you enjoy; that’s often their only compensation. 

Plan ahead. Buy tickets for popular events and concert venues in advance, especially if you want to catch a top-name artist or attend one of the popular writer’s rounds.  

For more information, go to www.visitmusiccity.com.  

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