Six Days on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails: Biking the Coeur d’Alenes

Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho on the last day of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

On Day 4 of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip, after breakfast at our base at the Silver Mountain Resort, we are shuttled to Shoshone Park in the mining town of Mullan for an easy downstream ride through the “Silver Valley,” home to several historic mining communities.

We soon pick up the official start of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, enjoying views of the rocky, forested mountains, as we make our way to the utterly charming “wild west” town of Wallace.

Biking on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes to Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We have been primed for Wallace’s character (and humor) when we had a talk by a local historian at the Roosevelt Inn in Coeur d’Alene so are prepared for the “history (and some hilarity!) that await us as citizens of Wallace have tenaciously preserved their town amidst an ever changing landscape of fortunes lost and gained.”

Now, we stroll around the town looking for some of the sights she pointed out, like the town’s last brothel, a mining museum, a silver shop, before we join the Sierra Silver Mine Tour that Discovery has arranged for us. It begins with a delightful narrated tour of Wallace in an open-air trolley that takes us up to the mine.

Who knew that Wallace was the “Silver Capital of the World” – some $138 billion worth taken out of these mines –$20 billion of metals just last year (did I hear that right?) – 1 million ounces of silver. In the 1960s, incredulously, Wallace was the “richest little city” in America with the highest number of millionaires per capita, as well as a thriving brothel industry. (The last running bordello was shut down in 1989 when the FBI raided tax dodgers – there is still resentment in the town – but you can visit the Bordello Museum.)

When mining began in 1886, Wallace’s population was 500; at its peak, in 1940, when some 200 mines were operating (quartz, gold, silver, copper, zinc), the population peaked at 4000, but, with the collapse of silver prices in March1980, most of the mines closed, the miners left and the population fell to the present number of 800. Today, there are still four active silver mines, including the Lucky Friday and the Galina mines, and one gold mine.

In 1890, a chimney fire destroyed most of the town – the buildings we see today date from 1890-1920. Indeed, Wallace has the rare honor of the entire town being listed on the National Register of Historical Places.

Other tidbits: only one sitting president has visited Wallace: Theodore Roosevelt came in 1903 on a campaign whistle stop; the town spent $5000 just on flags to welcome him. There was a shootout on Valentine’s Day, 1951 – one of the tommy guns is on display in the museum. And Wallace’s most famous native is Lana Turner went one day to a grocery store where she was discovered.

You would be forgiven if you thought Wallace was a theme park creation (the 1997 movie “Dante’s Peak” was filmed here), but the history and the heritage are real, as is the miner, “Fast Freddie,” who is our guide into the silver mine.

“Fast Freddie” guides us on the Sierra Silver Mine Tour, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

“Fast Freddie” is a colorful character (he looks as if he came from Hollywood casting), with a marvelous sense of humor, amusing and engaging, but most important, he is authentic, speaking of his own experience working 21 years underground in these mines. “You need a good sense of humor in a mine,” Freddie tells us. “We used to play tricks.” 

This mine was only briefly used, he says, because the silver was very low grade and not worth the expense. It was turned into a mining school, where students learned the techniques of mining and could be hired right into a job.

After the collapse of the silver market and the closure of mines, Wallace looked to tourism to compensate. This mine was turned into an attraction, getting as many as 18,000 visitors a year.

A skeleton wearing a hard hat greets us as we enter the Sierra Silver Mine in Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

As we enter the mine and pass a skeleton sitting on a chair, Freddie tells us that one of the worst mining disasters in history took place on May 2, 1972 when 91 miners lost lives and just 2 survived. ‘It took 2 weeks to recover all of them. They didn’t have a system to know who was down there.’ After that, the Mine Safety Administration mandated a tag system – larger mines have more sophisticated program.

The proverbial canary in a mine. “Fast Freddie” guides us on the Sierra Silver Mine Tour, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We actually see a canary cage – used to let the miners know when oxygen is low (the proverbial “canary in a coal mine.”)

In this mine, future miners were taught to run the jack, the drill, and to blast. The miners work alone at different levels, so each one has to do everything – digging, setting the dynamite charge, moving out the ore. “You have to get everything done so you can blast before the next shift arrives.”

“Fast Freddie” guides us on the Sierra Silver Mine Tour, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

How to protect against the noise? “A cigarette butt was ear protection” (not sure he was joking.)

“Fast Freddie” guides us on the Sierra Silver Mine Tour, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The veins of silver go down for miles – in 1964, they were mining at 250 feet. The Lucky Friday Mine, the largest in the area, is operating at 9600 feet below ground. The deeper they go, the hotter it gets – at 9,000 ft, as much as 170 degrees – so they designed a refrigerated ventilation system to cool to 100 degrees.

After being returned by the trolley, we have time to wander around Wallace before biking back on the trail on our own to the Silver Mine Resort.

The last brothel in Wallace, Idaho is now the Oasis Bordello Museum © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Wallace is really interesting – like a time warp and not really just “tourist quaint”, quirky and fun.  Just strolling around, you find the Wallace District Mining Museum, the Idaho Silver Shop, Northern Railroad Depot Museum, and everyone’s favorite, the Oasis Bordello Museum.

Wallace, Idaho, claims to be the “center of the universe.” Prove them otherwise. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Wallace, Idaho, claims to be the “center of the universe.” Prove them otherwise. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

These folks in Wallace have a sense of humor – and an eye for a profit-making tourism-promoting gimmick: they designated a manhole at the crossroads in the middle of town as the “Center of the Universe” (that’s what is engraved on it). Based on what? “What’s the evidence that it isn’t?” comes the reply.

A mummified mermaid, one of the curiosities and collectibles on view in the Trading Post, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I find a shop that sells guns, antiques, curios, and collectibles. In a glass cabinet is a large mummified “mermaid” (calling to mind a similar fantastical creature displayed in a store in Banff, Canada, and P.T. Barnum’s museum of oddities).

Poster above rifle barrels in the Wallace, Idaho gun shop: Americanism © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

It’s a delightful bike ride from Wallace to the Silver Mountain Resort in Kellogg, where later we have dinner together in the mountain village base.

DAY 5:  39 or 46 miles, Cataldo Mission and the Coeur d’Alenes

The plan on Day 5 is to set out from the Silver Mountain Resort biking on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, and after 11 miles or so, to visit the Cataldo Mission, Idaho’s oldest standing building, lunch at the Rodehouse before continuing biking, with a choice of 39 or 46 miles of cycling to Harrison, where we are to be shuttled back to the resort for a celebratory dinner in Kellogg for our last night together.  

But it is a drenching rain.

Our guide, Clarista, says “There is no bad weather, only bad clothing” and says her job is to cheerlead for biking, but if we don’t want to, we can choose  to shuttle the first 11 miles instead of bike to the Cataldo Mission. After assuring us we won’t be missing much in the way of scenery and that the portion from Cataldo to Smelterville is the pretty part, we vote to take her up on her offer to drive us to the Mission. (I’m just so grateful it wasn’t raining like this when we did the Route of the Hiawatha, especially when I see another bike tour heading out there this morning.)

The visit at the Cataldo Mission starts with an excellent video that explains how the local tribe invited the Jesuits (“Black Robes”) to come here and build the mission. At the time, the introduction of the horse meant that tribes that had coexisted in their own land before, began to encroach on each other’s territory. The tribe believed that the “Black Robe” missionaries had a superior power, a Great Spirit, who would enable them to triumph over their enemies.

The Mission of the Sacred Art was built in 1850-1853, by Father Pierre Jean De Smet, chief of the “Black Robes” who answered the tribe’s invitation to come, along with Father Ravalli, an Italian-born religious leader who designed the building and supervised construction with simple tools and without nails.

Old Mission church, Cataldo, Idaho’s oldest standing building © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Old Mission church is simple and beautiful – the wood-beamed ceiling painted blue with huckleberries, to make the native people more comfortable since they were used to praying outside. We learn that the walls were decorated with fabric bought from the Hudson Bay Company and a hand-painted newspaper from Philadelphia that Fr. Ravalli had received in the mail. Tin cans were used to create the chandeliers. Both wooden statues were carved by Fr. Rivalli with a knife to look like marble.

What I find most fascinating, though, is the museum there that better represents the tribe’s point of view – how they were initially drawn to Christianity with its values of “comfort, community” the sense of miraculous to be found in nature, and a Great Spirit with power to grant protection, like their own spirits, which seemed (at first) to conform with their own values and beliefs.

The Coeur d’Alene people – the Schitsu’umsh, meaning “Those who were found here” or “The discovered people” – were initially drawn in because the early Jesuits were tolerant of native culture and traditions, even blending the cultures together.

The mission became a stop and supply station for traders, settlers, and miners traveling on the Mullan Road, and a port for boats heading up the Coeur d’Alene River.

Old Mission church, Cataldo, Idaho’s oldest standing building © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Over time, the Coeur d’Alene people regretted the decision to give the Black Robes a stronghold when  they realized the Jesuits’ mission was to create an Empire of Christianity. At the same time, white settlers looking to exploit the region’s resources, who brought guns and small pox, were taking territory and pushing out the indigenous tribes. In 1877, even the mission was forcibly relocated from the ‘House of the Great Spirit.”

The museum displays photos and artifacts that show the effort to Christianize and eradicate native heritage and culture – but done in an understated, polite way since this museum, is apparently a partnership between the tribe and the mission. (The Cataldo Mission became a state historic park in 1935, was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961, and put on the National Register of Historic Places in 1966.)

We have lunch at the Rodehouse, right across the road from the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. By this time, the rain has all but ended – it is grey and humid  – and we get back on the trail for the 16-mile ride back to the resort.  The cloud formations make for dramatic scenes.

Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho through marshland © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We cycle along an enchanting stretch of wetlands – part of the trail is a berm with marsh on either side. We have been told “just after Metamonk Village (mile 20) to be on lookout for moose.

Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho through marshland © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I spot an osprey with fish in its claws so heavy it couldn’t take flight so dropped it; a black furry creature (otter? muskrat?) carrying what looked like a mouse dashes across the path; a flock of blue heron, a family of deer, and finally, when we are almost at the end of the trail, we come upon a moose with her baby.

Finally! We come upon the promised moose and her baby on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

DAY 6: 16 miles to the end of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes

Day 6 is our final day of riding. We pack up our luggage, have breakfast, and shuttle to Harrison, the point on the trail where we ended yesterday’s ride. Today, we bike the last section, 16 miles, through a series of chained lakes to the end of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. It is glorious.

Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho on the last day of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

It’s a perfect day – sunshine, cool temp (60 degrees), a bit of a headwind. We ride along the Lake Coeur d’Alene, then cross over the Chatcolet Bridge, a really interesting bridge which was once a swinging trestle (the challenge is to ride over the hump), then into the forest where we climb for about seven miles, through the Coeur D’Alene reservation, to finish at the trail’s end, at a moving Indian Warriors and Veterans Memorial.

Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho on the last day of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Here we have a picnic lunch, feeling extremely satisfied and happy, before we pack into the van again for an hour-drive back at Spokane Airport or downtown.

At the end of Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho is this monument to the Warriors and Veterans © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Discovery Bicycle Tours Merges into Active Adventures

Our Idaho Trails group. Discovery Bicycle Tours specializes in small-groups and personalized service. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Discovery Bicycle Tours has just joined Austin Adventures, a Montana-based North America National Parks small group tour company, under the umbrella ownership of Active Adventures, a New Zealand-based small group adventure travel company. These companies primarily offer hiking and multi-sport options, and just like Discovery Bicycle Tours, focus on small groups (averaging 12 guests).

Austin Adventures is a Montana-based North American National Parks expert offering small group tours with personal touches, flexible options to do as much or as little as you want, and “wow” moments. Austin Adventures also specializes in family and multi-generational tours across North America and around the globe. 

Active Adventures, based in New Zealand, has expanded over the past 30 years to South and Central America, Europe, the Himalayas and Africa. They offer small group, inspiring bucket-list adventures worldwide, with a mix of activities ranging from hiking, biking, and kayaking to snorkeling and caving. Each trip is designed to be flexible, so if you’re a little short on time or you’d prefer to skip an activity, they can alter the itinerary to suit you.

The merger means that the teams behind Discovery Bicycle Tours, Active Adventures, and Austin Adventures are located around the world in five countries, 15 cities, and even a campervan.

“Across the three brands, we’ve been running tours in North America for 77 years, Europe for 50 years, New Zealand for 25 years, South and Central America for 20 years, the Himalayas for 14 years, and Africa for five years. That’s a world of knowledgeand deep local experience across our brands,” Scott Cone, Discovery’s owner, stated.

Discovery Bicycle Tours, 800-257-2226, www.discoverybicycletours.com

See also:

Six Days Cycling Idaho Trails with Discovery Bicycle Tours

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Six Days Cycling Idaho Trails with Discovery Bicycle Tours

Biking through the pitch black, 1.66-mile long St. Paul Pass Tunnel the first of nine tunnels, seven trestles on the 14-mile long Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

It’s pitch black as we make our way 1.66 miles through the first tunnel of the Route of the Hiawatha, except for the light on our bike. Water drips down from the ceiling, the surface is muddy and slippery, adrenalin pumping. It is hugely thrilling.

This is just the first (and the most dramatic) of the 9 tunnels and 7 trestles we go through over the course of 14 miles down, then back through again for 14 miles up. It is also the longest – a full 1.66 miles in total darkness! – but each tunnel, each trestle is exciting. You can immediately appreciate why the Route of the Hiawatha is one of Rails to Trails Conservancy’s Hall of Fame rail trails.

Starting out on the 14-mile long Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The experience is but one of many highlights of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip, during which we will do the 111-mile long Centennial Trail, starting in Spokane Washington to Coeur d’Alene; tackle the remarkable Route of the Hiawatha Trail; and the 73-mile long Trail of the Coeur D’Alenes where we immerse in tribal land, history and culture. Along the way, we will also have interesting experiences such as touring a silver mine in the company of a miner and a museum preserving the heritage of the Coeur d’Alene people.

Biking the Centennial Trail from Spokane, Washington, on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

What I love most about bike tours is that they are cerebral as much as physical. You feel the scenery; you are part of the space you occupy, engaged – not a spectator peering through a glass window, but a participant, able to smell the air, feel the sun, the breeze, the drizzle, hear the birds and the rushing water. The pace is perfect to really get places while the scenery rolls by as if a movie. And you can stop when you want to take in the scene or a photo, read a marker, or peer at a moose. You feel the satisfaction, the sense of accomplishment at the end of a day’s ride – a combination of euphoria and endorphin rush.

Bike tours bring you to towns and villages you likely would never otherwise see © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

What is more, you get to go through small towns, see regular folks you would not likely see traveling by car or bus, promoting connection and understanding. And you have the added satisfaction of maximizing the benefit of your visit – providing the economic foundation that secures this heritage, these natural places, these experiences – leaving a minimal carbon footprint. This is true if you are touring in the United States or some faraway exotic land.

As we gather together for our first orientation meeting with our guides, I take note that just about every one of our group of 13 riders has taken not just one, two but several trips with Discovery Bicycle Tours.

This is my fourth, and I consistently find Discovery’s whole approach to bike touring ideal – summed up in the phrases “Ride your ride” followed by “This is your vacation!”– and how they make that happen. There are two guides (they take turns driving the van that shuttles our stuff, sets up our snack-stops, and is there if anyone needs assistance; while the other cycles along, bringing up the rear), but most importantly, we bike at our own pace. This is because we have our own Ride with GPS App, customized by Scott Cone (the company’s owner, he calls himself Adventure Consultant) for each itinerary; they even provide a phone holder on our bike.

The accommodations, restaurant choices and food are the perfect mix of charming reflections of the places we tour, and luxury (as much comfort as you would ever want without going over the top), adding immeasurably to the tour. The bikes (five of us use their hybrid, eight others take advantage of the availability of e-bikes at no extra cost) and equipment provided are top notch, and it bears noting that I consistently find Discovery offers excellent value-for-money.

Our guides, Susie Iventosch and Calista Phillips, on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Our guides, Susie Iventosch and Calista Phillips, are fantastic – really knowledgeable, supportive, encouraging, accurate (I appreciate having a realistic view of what the day’s ride will be), and flexible when necessary (like when we all vote not to ride during a downpour but shuttle the first 11 miles of the day’s route).

The trips are designed for maximum enjoyment of the ride – we are shuttled when it makes sense to or from the ride, and given options of longer or shorter routes each day. And the routes they choose, as well as the added activities (a lecture one evening, the silver mine tour another day, a visit to a museum another) add dimension. I also appreciate the advance preparation – documents, itinerary – and care they provide before the trip.

Day 1: Setting Out on the Centennial Trail, 36 Miles

Biking the Centennial Trail from Spokane, Washington, on Day 1 of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Our first morning starts with an early meet-up at the Hilton Garden Inn close to Spokane Airport, for introductions and orientation, and we are shuttled to Sontag Park, the start of the Centennial Trail, where we are fitted to our bikes, get the Ride with GPS app going, and set out on a really beautiful ride. Suzie notes that this first day will be the most challenging of the tour.

Biking the Centennial Trail from Spokane, Washington, on Day 1 of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We start pedaling along the Washington portion of the Centennial Trail in the rocky canyons west of Spokane. The beginning of the trail is in the forest, and soon rises so that we have this gorgeous view of the Spokane River far below. And once you do the first hill, you feel you can do the second (which is the steepest of the day), then the third (the longest, but not as steep – a piece of cake).

Biking the Centennial Trail from Spokane, Washington, on Day 1 of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We pass through Spokane’s urban Riverfront Park that I have so enjoyed visiting for the past three days, and end, 36 miles further down, just five miles before the Washington-Idaho state line, where we are picked up by the van and are taken to the charming Roosevelt Inn where we stay for two nights, in Coeur D’Alene. (Our next day’s ride will bring us back to this same spot, so we can ride the five miles into Idaho.)

The charming Roosevelt Inn, our base for two nights in Coeur d’Alene © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I adore the Roosevelt Inn – it is so much a part of Coeur d’Alene. Named for President Theodore Roosevelt who came through the area in 1903 on a campaign whistle stop, the building dates from 1905 when it was Coeur D’Alene’s first school, then became offices, and is now a most charming 14-room bnb. Each room is named for someone with a picture and bio, and provides plush robes and towels. The inn offers a hot tub and sauna (open 24 hours), and absolutely gorgeous gardens (life-size chess). There is a lovely parlor with gorgeous painted mural along the three walls, where there is a refrigerator guests can use; a constant supply of coffee, tea and hot chocolate; fruit and usually, something freshly baked. Each morning, we are served breakfast to order,

The charming Roosevelt Inn, our base for two nights in Coeur d’Alene © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

This first evening we enjoy dinner together at a pub-style restaurant (a celebratory drink is included).

DAY 2: 14 or 27 miles, Centennial Trail

Biking the Centennial Trail along Lake Coeur d’Alene on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

After breakfast at The Roosevelt Inn on our second day, we shuttle to Lovely Falls Park, the headwaters of the Spokane River. The trail takes us along the majestic shores of Lake Coeur d’Alene.

The ride today is 14 miles out and back to the endpoint of the Centennial Trail at Higgins Point, the endpoint of the Centennial Trail, mostly hugging the gorgeous shoreline of Lake Coeur d’Alene, until we come to one major hill up, then down – which means (if we are biking back) we have an even steeper return.

Enjoying the scenery in Coeur d’Alene © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We have the option to ride back in the van, but all of us choose to bike back to The Roosevelt, cycling at our own pace. It is early afternoon when we return, so we have plenty of time to enjoy exploring the charming shops and galleries of Coeur d’Alene (a hugely popular destination), swim in the lake or relax. I find a lovely hiking trail along the cliffs.

Enjoying the scenery in Coeur d’Alene © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We are treated to a talk by historian Shauna Hillman give a delightful talk about the town of Wallace, Idaho and the Silver Valley Mine which we will be visiting (‘Murder, mining, prostitution,  the mayor murdered his wife’s lover and got away with it, and was reelected twice!”) as we sit in the inn’s lovely garden – before heading out to have dinner on our own.

DAY 3: 15 or 28 miles, Route of the Hiawatha

Group photo before start biking the Trail of the Hiawatha on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

After two delightful nights at the Roosevelt Inn in Coeur d’Alene, we pack up in preparation for moving our home base to a mountain resort in Kellogg for the remainder of trip. After breakfast, we shuttle 90 minutes east to the trailhead of the famous Route of the Hiawatha.

Biking the Route of The Hiawatha is an extraordinary experience in the annals of bike trails. Our guides, Suzie and Calista, prepare us extremely well for what we will do, that the first tunnel, the St. Paul Pass Tunnel, is the longest at 1.66 miles long, and is pitch black, damp and a constant 47 degrees. They have put lights on our bikes (you are not allowed to go on the trail without a helmet and bike light).

After we excitedly take group photos at the entrance, we set out at our own pace, with the caveat that we have to start biking back up at 2:30 pm (note there is an hour time change from the start).

Starting out on the 14-mile long Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Biking through the St. Paul Pass Tunnel is a surreal experience – you can’t see what is above or on the side, only what is lit by the narrow beam where your light shines.

Biking through the pitch black, 1.66-mile long St. Paul Pass Tunnel the first of nine tunnels, seven trestles on the 14-mile long Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

When you get out and ride the hard-packed gravel trail, it goes steadily down a 3% grade for 14 miles. The scenery is quite spectacular, especially when you look down at a thin pencil line and realize that is the trestle you will be riding across. It looks so small, so far away and far down. And then you are there, and it isn’t thin at all. The view from the trestle is spectacular, too.

Trestles look like thin pencils from above on the Trail of the Hiawatha © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The trestles are so high above where you imagine is the valley floor, you feel you are suspended.

It is 14 miles down on hard-packed gravel to where there is a picnic table where we have a box lunch we had ordered, before riding back up the same 14 miles. If you don’t want to ride back up, you can buy a ticket ($20) to take a shuttle bus. We all bike back. (Notably, there are several bathrooms along the way and water supplied.)

Biking one of seven trestles on the Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I must admit I am a bit nervous to ride continuously uphill for 14 miles but it actually isn’t bad at all, and there are all these opportunities to stop for the view, or read the interpretive signs that line the trail that tell the history of the Milwaukee Road Railroad. The view and the fresh air are exhilarating.

Biking through one of nine tunnels on the Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Hiawatha, considered one of the more successful rail-trail conversions in the United States, was named to the Rails to Trails Conservancy’s national Hall of Fame in 2010. It was developed from a railroad line, developed in the late 1800s, that went out of business in the 1980s. 

Biking one of seven trestles on the Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

One of the historic markers along the way tells of the Great Fire of 1910. One of the most devastating forest fires in American history, it burned 3 million acres of forest in northern Idaho and western Montana. The fire was so huge that a massive cloud of smoke spread throughout southern Canada and the northern United States all the way to the St. Lawrence waterway. The darkness from the smoke was so bad that for 5 days, artificial lighting had to be used from Butte, Montana to Chicago to Watertown, New York. The fire completely devastated the St. Joe River valley and destroyed all of the towns except Avery and Marble Creek, many never rebuilt.

The marker tells of heroic actions by the railroad employees who drove engines and box cars filled with people through the flames to the safety of the longer tunnels, saving 600 lives.

Biking through one of nine tunnels on the Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

It feels soooo good when I come back through that last, longest (1.66 miles), darkest tunnel, being careful not to ride up on the person in front, or slipping in the muddy surface.

At the end, it is a work out that makes you feel so ecstatic, euphoric when you finish.

You need to have a reserved timed ticket to ride the Hiawatha, which is owned by the U.S. National Forest but operated by Lookout Pass Ski Area. (Discovery Bicycle Trails has taken care of our reservations and the ticket, $20 pp; the shuttle is $20 more.)

Feeling quite elated, we pile back into the van to shuttle to the Silver Mountain Resort in Kellogg, where we stay in spacious and comfortable condo accommodations for three nights.

Discovery Bicycle Tours, 800-257-2226, www.discoverybicycletours.com

Next:  Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

A River Runs Through It: Discovering Spokane, Washington

A river runs through it: Spokane, Washington, is a marvelous synthesis of city and wilderness, historic and contemporary that makes it a delight to visit as well as live © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

My long-held desire to bike the award-winning Route of Hiawatha rail trail in Idaho provides the opportunity to discover the enormous appeal of Spokane, Washington, where the Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails bike tour begins. I cleverly arrange to come in three days early to give myself time to immerse, staying at the exquisitely grand and historic Hotel Davenport, so connected to Spokane’s story and walking distance to most everything I want, and even taking advantage of their bicycles to get a jump on the Centennial Trail which figures so prominently in the bike tour, too.

This is all new territory for me.                            

The first delightful surprise is how easy it is to navigate Spokane International Airport (if you’ve been through JFK and LaGuardia in New York, you will appreciate what I mean) – a few steps to the door, and a few steps more to a wonderfully convenient public bus that takes me steps from the Davenport’s door (the bus driver and fellow travelers are so helpful! – something I find throughout my stay in Spokane) – just $2 for the fare (which you can use to transfer or return within 2 hours; $4/day or $12 for three-days).

It doesn’t take long for me to realize why Spokane, with its natural and cultural appeal, isn’t just a great place to visit, but a great place to live.

Walk over the bridges that connect the several islands of Riverfront Park to get a dramatic view of the rapids © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Imagine strolling over America’s largest urban waterfalls, walking 15 minutes from downtown to a rafting trip on a river that cuts through evergreen forest, and getting on a bike in the downtown city park – the site of the 1974 World’s Fair, appropriately themed for environmental protection – and biking 58 miles on the trail to Coeur- d’Alene in Idaho. This is Spokane, Washington – and even though it is 95 degrees outside, it doesn’t feel hot.

Spokane is this vibrant city organized for its people. Of course, it wasn’t always that way, but the same reasons it developed into a hub of the West – railroads, commerce and mining – Spokane was an early adopter of sustainability and environmental protection while transitioning into the 21st century by holding on to what was best about the past.

For me, the mark of a place that takes pride in itself and has community spirit is one that has historic markers and plaques and its respect for historic and cultural places.

You feel it especially in the historic Davenport Hotel – a truly grand dame that is very happy to share its stories.

So I begin my exploration with a tour of The Historic Davenport Hotel  (see Historic Hotel Davenport Puts You into Spokane’s Story)

The grand dame historic Hotel Davenport has helped spark Spokane’s downtown renaissance. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com 

From there, the concierge directs me to the public bus (the central depot is across the street), for a ride to visit the magnificent Manito Park. (1702 S Grand Blvd). This is a spectacular 90-acre oasis in the in the South Hill neighborhood that features five distinct gardens: the Duncan Garden (a formal garden where I notice the fountain is dedicated to Louis Davenport who built the Davenport Hotel), Rose Garden, Perennial Garden, Lilac Garden and (my favorite) the Japanese Garden. (If you come in the afternoon, save the enchanting Japanese Garden for last; if you come in the morning, see it with the morning light.)

The Japanese Garden in Manito Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Most wonderfully, the Manito Park, is really a neighborhood park – much like Central Park in New York City, and Golden Gate Park, in San Francisco – grand and yet neighborly. Besides the gardens, Manito Park has spacious manicured lawns, playgrounds, walking trails and biking paths, topiary shrubs, a greenhouse conservatory, a conservatory and a duck pond. It gets some 150,000 visitors a year. (Best viewing May-October, http://www.manitopark.org/)

An absolute highlight for me – almost a homebase during my stay in Spokane – is Riverfront Park. Just a few minutes walk from the Historic Davenport Hotel, I found myself wandering into the park two, even three times during the day.

It is actually one of the rare successes in urban renewal: once a blighted space, the city seized on the opportunity to host the 1974 World’s Fair (notably the first expo themed around environmental conservation) to make major, lasting improvements serving the community in myriad ways. There is so much here, and it is so pleasant being here that I find myself coming to the park at least twice each day (morning and evening) of my visit.

Numerica SkyRide gondola gives a birds-eye view of Spokane’s waterfalls © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Riverfront Park was opened by President Nixon (who made an eloquent speech about the importance of environmental protection and resigned by the time the Fair closed).  It is pure delight for residents and visitors alike: stroll over bridges for spectacular views of the falls; be carried over the falls on the Numerica SkyRide gondola, channel your inner child on the historic Looff Carrousel, fantastic playgrounds and rides (slide down The Red Wagon, a giant Flyer), and feed the Garbage Goat (a clever way to encourage composting).

Families enjoy the Red Wagon in Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Enjoy a concert at the United States Pavilion which was saved and repurposed as an outdoor performance venue seating as many as 6000 (there was a concert there during my visit) – the roof replaced by steel ribbings that are lighted at night.

The United States Pavilion, built for the 1974 World’s Fair, is now a performance venue accommodating 6,000 people © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The park actually is composed of several islands connected by bridges. One of the islands pays tribute to Spokane’s indigenous heritage. There is a totem pole and story board stations.

The bridges pass over the rapids and falls, for dramatic views you would never expect in an urban landscape. The pathways weave throughout – you come upon a fantastic playground; sculptures, attractions.

The Garbage Goat is an iconic sculpture in Spokane’s Riverfront Park with a message of envirionmentalism © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I stop into the Riverfront Park Visitor Center (actually the Visit Spokane tourist center), where I learn about the Great Fire of 1889 that destroyed 90 percent of the downtown – the only surviving buildings were those made of brick by the railroad company. What was left became the historic district (but there are some modern skyscrapers that seem so out of place, that were built before the new rules were put into place).

Also going through the park is the Centennial Trail, a biking/pedestrian/recreational trail that extends for miles into Idaho, which I will take from beginning to end the end on my upcoming Idaho Trails bike tour.

It is an interesting experience to be walking distance of a rafting experience in a major city – the Spokane River that goes through the city gives the city its special beauty and quality of life (as well as its hydroelectric power). It can be said that the river energizes the city – and this confluence of nature, urbanity and livability is what makes Spokane such a hot place for people to put down roots.

Enjoying a pleasant float down the Spokane River © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com


Within minutes, we embark from the Peaceful Valley neighborhood on a two hour-long scenic Spokane River Float with Wiley Waters. (Wear water-shoes and a bathing suit; a dry bag is provided, as well as drinks). It’s the end of the season so is a very gentle glide – towards the end, we hop off the raft for a brisk dunk. The season runs May-September (Wiley E. Waters, riverrafting.net, 888-502-1900).

In the evening, I return to the Riverfront Park to once again stroll about as the sun set.

The view from the Centennial Trail © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The next morning, I take advantage of the Davenport’s bike rental (two hours are included in the resort fee), to bike on the The Centennial Trail in Riverfront Park. I ride west, toward Riverside State Park, where the Centennial Trail begins. The trail in this direction goes along the high ridge that follows the Spokane River well below – just beautiful – and passed these beautiful housing complexes that are wonderfully designed, sharing the trail with families out for a stroll, runners, walkers, and cyclists. (Again, pointing to the livability of Spokane).

The view from the Centennial Trail © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I bike up to the point where the trail has a sharp descent which I would have ride back up (with a three-speed city bike) so I leave that for the bike tour which will start at the very beginning of the trail and ride to where it ends, 58 miles away, in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

Instead, I cycle the trail in the other direction, going back through Riverfront Park, toward Gonzaga University campus in search of the famous singer/actor Bing Crosby’s childhood home, which is actually on the campus and now a museum.

Bing Crosby’s childhood home is now a museum on the Gonzaga University campus © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I knew that the museum would be closed when I arrive. I later learn that the museum has a Norman Rockwell painting of Bing Crosby, based on a promotional photograph from the 1949 movie musical “A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court.”

There is also a statue on the campus in front of the Bing Crosby Hall (Crosby made major donations to the university and though he quit school to pursue his career in music, the university gave him an honorary degree in 1937.)

(Crosby House, 508 E. Sharp Avenue, Spokane, WA 99258, 509-313-4064).

In the afternoon, I head to the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture.

To get there, I could easily hop on the purple City Line lightrail from just across the street from the Davenport and get off in Browne’s Addition, but I prefer to walk the mile.

Spokane is still a cultural hub with theaters like the Fox Theater, which dates from 1931© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 

The walk takes me passed the Bing Crosby Theater, the Fox Theater (1931), gorgeous Art Deco buildings that exemplify Spokane’s importance as a cultural center for the Northwest, its legacy as an important commercial hub on the railroad line, and its wealth from nearby Idaho mines.

Strolling through the Browne’s Addition neighborhood enroute to the Northwest museum of Arts and Culture, you see some of the fabulous Victorian mansions reflecting Spokane’s wealth from commerce, mining and railroads © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I pass stunning Victorian mansions – most of them now inns or museums – but none more magnificent than the Campbell House, which is now part of the museum and a “must visit” (be aware of the opening hours).

Strolling through the Browne’s Addition neighborhood enroute to the Northwest museum of Arts and Culture, you see some of the fabulous Victorian mansions reflecting Spokane’s wealth from commerce, mining and railroads © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Founded in 1918, the Smithsonian-affiliated Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture presents an extensive, permanent collection of Plateau Tribal art and artifacts, Pacific Northwest art, regional historical objects and archives. It really offers a synthesis of the history and heritage here, with appropriate respect for the tribal people.

Having spent time in Riverfront Park, I am particularly fascinated to see the special exhibition, “It Happened Here: Expo ’74 Fifty Years After.”  

A 50th anniversary commemoration exhibit of Spokane’s 1974 World’s Fair shows how the fair proved one of the most successful urban renewal projects, leaving behind Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

In 1974, Spokane was the smallest city ever to host a world’s fair. During its six-month run, the fair presented exhibits from ten countries, featured a star-studded events calendar, sponsored three environmental symposiums and attracted 5.6 million visitors. “Fifty years later, Expo ’74 remains one of the single most transformative events in Spokane’s history, radically reshaping its natural and built environment. Expo ’74 ushered in a new era for the city – one centered on urban renewal, commercial growth, and political progress,” the notes state. The fair also kindled a community spirit.

Liberace’s costume from Spokane’s 1974 World’s Fair © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

There are fantastic artifacts (Liberace’s bejeweled denim costume, Sister Paula Turnbull’s model for Spokane’s now iconic Garbage Goat, and an original Sky Ride gondola), but particularly interesting were the videos – Nixon’s speech on opening day extolling the virtues of environmentalism, which was the theme of the fair and how Spokane was a model and inspiration to emulate (Nixon had resigned by the time the fair closed 3 months later), and a video from the Soviet Union showing how the country is “enforcing” environmentalism. (The exhibit has since closed, but is indicative of what is presented.)

The Northwest Museum of Culture & Arts hosted a riveting exhibit, ;1924: Sovreignty, Leadership, and the Indian Citizenship Act” © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I am fortunate to visit when the museum is presenting a riveting exhibit,”1924: Sovereignty, Leadership, and the Indian Citizenship Act.” 1924 was the year that American Indians were declared citizens and ostensibly entitled to vote (though the equivalent of Jim Crow laws prevented most from voting until the 1965 Voting Rights Act).

Shortly after Congress enacted the Indian Citizenship Act, granting citizenship to all American Indians born in the United States, on June 2, 1924, Spokane announced it would host the first American Indian Congresses in 1925, which was held at the Hotel Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Shortly after Congress enacted the Indian Citizenship Act, granting citizenship to all American Indians born in the United States, on June 2, 1924, Spokane announced it would host the first American Indian Congresses in 1925. These were some of the first events where tribal leaders, government officials, and community members from around the United States gathered to formally participate in talks on rights and advocacy. 1924 commemorates this 100-year anniversary, centering on early local tribal leadership as they and their people navigated the sometimes-conflicting nature of being both U.S. citizens and citizens of their own sovereign nations. One of the photos shows the Congress taking place in the Davenport Hotel’s ballroom.

The Campbell House at the Northwest Museum of Culture & Arts © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Be sure you leave enough time to visit The Campbell House and its carriage house (admission to the house closes an hour before the museum, so in retrospect, should have done it first.).

The Campbell House at the Northwest Museum of Culture & Arts © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Campbell House is an absolute jewel with exquisite architecture, interior decoration  (some of the furnishings are original to the house; others are appropriate period pieces). The mansion was designed in 1898 for the Campbell family by architect Kirtland K. Cutter (who also designed the historic Davenport Hotel). Cutter incorporated all the modern technologies available – indoor plumbing, hot and cold running water, electricity, central heat and even a telephone.

At the carriage house of the Campbell House, you get to know who this family was and what life was like in Spokane © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The carriage house holds the personal story of the Campbells and the Spokane community of the time – artifacts and photographs, a car that would have been very much like the one the Campbell’s had. It is so interesting to have such a personal look at this family.

Campbell made his fortune investing in the mines of north Idaho (that I will be visiting soon on the Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails trip). The Campbell family (his wife was a school teacher) lived here for 26 years and in 1924, after both parents had passed away, their daughter, Helen, donated the house to the Eastern Washington Historical Society which started the museum. Now it is under the auspices of the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture.

 (Open Tuesday-Sunday, 12-4 pm, admission included with museum ticket)

Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, 2316 W First Avenue, Spokane 99201, northwestmuseum.org (give yourself at least 2 hours, more like 3)

In the evening I return again to the Riverfront Park (after dashing to REI before closing to buy bike gloves before my trip). The setting sun casts a pink glow in the sky and I am once again awed by the dramatic view over the falls – the largest urban falls in the country, apparently. And I finally get my chance to ride the Looff Carrousel.

Riding the Looff Carrousel in Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 

The beloved, iconic attraction of the park was hand-carved by Charles Looff in 1909 as a gift for his daughter and her husband. Looff, an immigrant from Germany, arguably was America’s first great carousel carver having made wooden animals for Coney Island’s carousel. This carousel was set in an amusement park, Natatorium Park, for many years before the park closed in 1968.

When Natatorium Park closed, in 1968, the carousel was put up for auction. Spokane’s parks manager was determined to save the carousel for the city, enduring criticism from those who felt he wasted money because there was no place for it, so it was put into storage. But then the 1974 Expos came, and the carousel was taken out and placed in the park, where it has remained.

The Looff Carrousel in Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

It is magical enough to ride the carousel, but I get to ride the carousel as night is falling, the colorful lights coming on – the kids grabbing for the brass ring and tossing it to try to win a free ride. The original organ – its 300 pipes equivalent to a 60-piece band – still operates but is used only for special occasions. As we ride, we hear the original music as it was recorded and digitized.

Equally exquisite is the view of the carousel reflected in the water from outside.

To plan your visit: Visitor Information Center, Riverfront Park, 6y20 W. Spokane Falls Blvd, Spokane, WA 99201, 888-SPOKANE, Visit Spokane,  www.visitspokane.com.

See also:

HISTORIC HOTEL DAVENPORT PUTS YOU INTO SPOKANE’S STORY

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Historic Hotel Davenport Puts You into Spokane’s Story

“Meet me at the fireplace”: The historic Hotel Davenport has been a centerpiece of Spokane, Washington’s society since 1914 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Nothing puts you as instantly into the story of Spokane, Washington as a stay at the grand, historic Hotel Davenport. 

For the past 110 years – except for the 15 years it was boarded up with a wrecking ball looming  – the Davenport has been at the center of Spokane’s society. Staying here puts you into that story – most remarkably when you see the black-and-white photographs on the wall and see the rooms just as they were, easily imagining the people filling them just as then.

The historic Hotel Davenport has been restored to its gracious grandeur © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Since the Davenport opened in 1914, it has been known as Spokane’s “living room” and folks would make their date to “meet me at the fireplace.” Today, it is even more than that – it is like someone who has been listening and watching all these things unfold over the past 110 years and is so anxious to share.

Louis Davenport who built this grand hotel had been operating a hugely successful restaurant with a grand ballroom at a time when the number of business travelers and salesmen coming through the Spokane transit hub on the Great Northern Railway was burgeoning. Davenport was approached by local investors to build a hotel that would cater to the growing demand. 

Considering Davenport’s humble beginnings (he is a classic incarnation of the American Dream), he was surprisingly sophisticated in wanting his hotel to not only give visitors the feeling of making a Grand Tour through Europe, but with state-of-the- art construction and the most modern amenities.

Louis Davenport’s original restaurant has been repurposed but the 14-story hotel, once the tallest building in Spokane, has been meticulously restored © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Davenport was the first hotel in the country with air conditioning, a central vacuum system, ice cold drinking water piped to each guest room, housekeeping carts and accordion ballroom doors, Marshall Taylor, the Davenport’s Guest Experience Manager, tells me on a grand tour of the hotel. Davenport used steel-reinforced concrete for his building material and imported artisans to make the pillars look like veined-marble and the cast plaster beams to look like wood with gilded reliefs. Indeed, this is how the structure, even after being closed for more than 15 years, could be restored, albeit at the cost of millions, to its former grandeur. (Guest rooms were in fact gutted and rebuilt and redesigned to appeal to modern guests/meet modern standards).

Davenport hired architect Kirtland Cutter who had become Spokane’s most prominent architect after the Great Fire of 1889 destroyed most of the downtown, responsible for so many of the city’s iconic mansion homes (I later see the magnificent Campbell House), buildings and bridges (including the majestic Monroe Street bridge) to design the Davenport Hotel to bring the world to Spokane. The lobby is in the Spanish Renaissance style, with utterly stunning beams and a skylight that in fact is lighted by sunlight (they had to put black tar on it during WWII because of the proximity to Fairchild Air Force Base; it was cleaned up during the restoration.)

The Isabella Ballroom, named for Queen Isabella, was originally the hotel’s dining room is in the the Spanish Renaissance style of northern Spain.

Louis Davenport wanted to give his guests a “grand tour of Europe” – the Isabella Ballroom was designed in Spanish Renaissance style © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Marie Antoinette Ballroom is in French Neo-Classical design (Mrs. Davenport’s favorite room in the hotel) – the crystal chandeliers are original, each costing $10,000 (more than the cost of a family home at the time). You can still feel what it was like to dance on the original floating dance floor, suspended on cables so dancers could been light on their feet. There is a photo of the ballroom on opening night in 1914. Women used to gather on the balcony and if they spotted a fellow they liked, might drop a glove that the fellow would return and ask for a dance. Originally there was a door that led to salesmen’s rooms, where they would conduct mini-trade shows to show off their wares. 

The Elizabethan Room is in English Tudor-style, possibly the first hotel ballroom in the world to employ folding panel doors to divide one large room into several smaller rooms (the original panel doors are still used). The chandeliers are original, each made with 75 pounds of sterling silver. A few of the hotel’s original 405 telephones are along the base of the window wall.

The Grand Pennington Ballroom evokes Imperial Russia. This room was created during the renovation and named for the Pennington Hotel that once occupied the site. New chandeliers are from Spain, carpeting from England.

The Hall of Doges, designed by Cutter after the Doge Palace in Venice, boasts being the only “flying ballroom” in the world © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Hall of Doges, designed by Cutter, is almost mythical in its beauty – it literally takes your breath away – you feel you have been transported to Venice. Spokane’s oldest ballroom, the Davenport boasts it is the only “flying ballroom” in the world. Indeed, the room was originally above Davenport’s restaurant in 1904, the year Cutter converted the red brick façade of the restaurant into a Spanish mission design, and a decade before the hotel opened. At the time, it was the largest and grandest ballroom in the West (you can well believe the hyperbole), built at a cost of $30,000. Cutter took as his inspiration the Palaces of the Doges in Venice. But in the 2000 renovation, the entire Hall of the Doges was removed intact by a crane and placed inside the newly constructed east wing of the hotel (the original restaurant was completely removed and now serves as the carport). There is actually a photo of the ballroom “flying” in the air.

The Hall of Doges, designed by Cutter after the Doge Palace in Venice, is breathtaking © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Peacock Lounge with its magnificent stained glass ceiling of some 5,000 pieces, has a décor and ambiance that exudes the flamboyance of the Jazz Age. With the Davenport in the center of Spokane’s downtown entertainment district, the Peacock Lounge the place for pre-and post-show libations (check out the award-winning double martinis and custom cocktails). (Open seating, first-come, first-served).

The Davenport’s Peacock Lounge is the place to be pre- and post-theater © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The fireplace in the lobby restaurant, which Davenport insisted upon as a symbol of hospitality, was first lit by architect Cutter in September 1914 and, as Davenport decreed, remains lit each and every day, even in summer. “Meet me by the fireplace” was a popular expression among the locals.

The exquisite stained glass ceiling from the Davenport’s Peacock Lounge. All the Davenport hotels in Spokane have stained glass to match the hotel’s theme © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The fountain in the middle of the lobby, Taylor tells me, is made of stone from the same quarry as the Lincoln Memorial.

The fountain in the Hotel Davenport’s lobby is made of stone from the same quarry as the Lincoln Memorial © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

For the restoration, they were able to preserve the exquisite woodwork and detail, copying what needed to be replaced. Taylor points me to a bit of wood molding where if you look closely, you can see where the words are scrawled, Will…..You….Marry….Me…stretched out on the wood trim.

It is legend about how it got there (encouraged by the hotel, no doubt), but most believable is that during the 2000-2 restoration, the restorer fell in love with a woman who worked in the banquet department and he embedded the words to propose. “It has become the popular place for proposals,” Taylor relates.

I love exploring this place – there is so much to see, discover and marvel at, especially with the wonderful ways the hotel showcases its history and heritage just about everywhere you look.

Since architect Kirtland Cutter first lit the Hotel Davenport’s fireplace, it has remained lit every day, as decreed by Louis Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

To say the Davenport is grand would be an understatement – the hotel has hosted almost every US president of the 20th century as well as a few royals.

Spokane has always been a hub for culture and entertainment, as much as for business and commerce as well as for the entertainers and audience-goers – Mary Pickford, Tyrone Power, Amelia Earhart, Charles Lindbergh, Bob Hope, Will Rogers, John Philip Sousa and Elvis Presley. and that tradition continues today with more recent celebs – Cher, Neil Diamond, Cuba Gooding Jr., Jerry Seinfeld and Sting because Spokane is still a cultural hub, which you see when you cross the street..

A display dedicated to Spokane-native singer/actor Bing Crosby who got his start in a band that played at the Hotel Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Most notably, though is Bing Crosby – the illustrious singer and movie star. He was born in Spokane (you can visit his childhood home on the campus of Gonzaga University. But before Crosby was so established as a singer, the young Harry “Bing” Crosby was the drummer for a local band called the Musicaladars that played on the KHQ radio station. KHQ, one of the first commercial radio stations in the Pacific, first went on the air in Seattle in 1922 and moved to Spokane to broadcast from the Davenport Hotel’s roof tower in 1925. The station featured local bands like Brill’s Orchestra and The Musicaladers. Crosby was featured on a radio interview, which led to him getting his national contract, Taylor relates, and the rest, as they say, is history. There is a marvelous display about Bing Crosby in a china cabinet on the mezzanine floor. (A theater named for him is right outside.)

Bing Crosby’s story is wonderful, but I am most fascinated with Louis Davenport, who epitomizes America’s self-made man.

Louis Davenport himself sits in the historic Hotel Davenport’s lobby © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Taylor tells me that Louis Davenport came to Spokane in 1889 when he was about 20 years old, to help his uncle, Elijah Davenport, with his restaurant. His uncle’s restaurant burned down in 1889 with the Great Fire that destroyed most of the downtown.

“Louie went into the rubble and found a waffle iron. He built a temporary shop with a wood frame and canvas cover and used that waffle iron to sell waffles to the workmen clearing the debris. He opened his own restaurant in one year.”

With the rail line, Spokane had become a hub and a crossroads for commerce. Davenport’s restaurant was so successful, that Spokane’s founding fathers approached him to build a hotel to accommodate the business meetings of salespeople coming from Montana, Idaho, north and west, selling silver and gems from the Idaho mines, fish, seafood, lumber. They needed a hotel with a large meeting space – the closest other business hotel would have been the eight-story-high  Empress Hotel in Victoria, Canada, built in 1908 with only one ballroom.

The Davenport, at 14 stories, was the tallest building in Spokane until The Paulson was built in the 1920s.

Secretary of Commerce Herbert Hoover receiving the gift of a jacket from Alice Gary, Great Granddaughter of Chief Spokane Garry at the Hotel Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

You can see from the photos on the wall that the Davenport was a locus for history. The most profound photo is of the first American Indian Congress, in 1925, a gathering of the indigenous tribes in the Davenport ballroom that followed the 1924 passage of the Indian Citizenship Act. (I see the photo in an exhibit, 1924: Sovereignty, Leadership, and the Indian Citizenship Act, at the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture).

The first American Indian Congress, in 1925, a gathering of the indigenous tribes in the Davenport ballroom that followed the 1924 passage of the Indian Citizenship Act © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Davenport operated through the Great Depression and World War II. Louis Davenport sold the hotel in 1945 and died in 1951. The hotel changed hands several times, and when it finally closed in 1985, was in disrepair. At one point, the city wanted to demolish it and put up a proverbial parking lot. But the cost of asbestos abatement would have been ruinous.

Local entrepreneurs Walt and Karen Worthy came to the rescue. They spent two years and millions of dollars to restore the Davenport to its grandeur (the guest floors and service areas are new). The Davenport reopened in the summer of 2002 with stunning amenities including a gorgeous pool and a luxurious spa.

The stunning detail in the Hotel Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The restoration was really a labor of love – and we get to appreciate the extraordinary artisanry of Melvin Holmes, the main restorer. His wife, Janice Holmes, was passionate about the restoration, especially the Marie Antoinette ballroom, where she scraped off layers of whitewash to find the original colors underneath – salmon, teal – and insisted it be restored to the original. Today it is absolutely magnificent (not gaudy) – with the soft salmon and delicate mint green, and gilding that does not overwhelm. She passed away before the project was completed so her husband, Melvin, painted a portrait of her in 1930s mid-century modern dress, which is on the balcony.

Janice Holmes, wife of the chief restorer Melvin Holmes, was passionate about restoring the Hotel Davenport to its original grandeur. He immortalized her in a portrait that is in the Isabella Ballroom © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Now owned by KSL Capital Partners (which owns the Alterra Mountain Company and Ikon Pass), there are five hotels in the Davenport Hotel Collection here in Spokane – each with a different theme, spirit, ambiance and vibe: Besides the Historic Davenport (Old World elegance), there is the Grand, which opened 2015 with a modern, Vegas style; the Tower, built in 2007 which has a safari theme; and the Centennial, which is a convention hotel.

The fifth property, the Lusso (a boutique hotel across the street from the Davenport, where Louis Davenport, himself, used to live, which was acquired in 2009 and has an Italian theme), has since been entirely renovated and renamed, and reopening in March as

The Louie at Davenport Hotel, a 48-key boutique property offering personalized luxury including Butler Service (the first and only offering of this kind in Spokane).

 I love that The Davenport is walking (or biking) distance to most of what I want to see (especially just a few blocks from Riverfront Park, where I find myself at least twice a day, and where you will find America’s largest urban waterfall), making for an ideal base for exploring the city’s hot culinary scene, nature and cultural offerings, like the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, and the riverfront Centennial Trail. What isn’t in walking distance is easily accessed by a superb public transit system not more than a block away,  which provides frequent service to take you everywhere else (including the airport, just about 20 minutes away) for a $2 fare (the return is free within two hours).

And so I immediately go off to explore. My first stop is by bus: the magnificent Manito Park, where I discover a fountain in its formal garden was donated by Louis Davenport.

The formal garden at Manito Park has a fountain that was donated by Louis Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com 

The 284-room Historic Davenport Hotel, offers electric car charging, convenience store, hair salon, indoor swimming pool, wedding services, concierge service, three restaurants, two bars/lounges, 18 meeting rooms, conference space, self- and valet parking, full-service spa, 24-hour fitness facilities, steam room, hot tub, disability accommodations, sustainability programs and is a member of the Marriott Autograph Collection (and Marriott Bonvoy loyalty)

The Historic Davenport Hotel, 10 S Post Street, Spokane, WA 99201, DavenportHotelCollection.com, 509-455-8888, 866-238-1697.

Next: Exploring Spokane

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Landmark Anne Frank The Exhibition in NYC Personalizes Holocaust As Never Before

Standing in Anne Frank’s tiny room in The Annex where she and her family hid from the Nazis for two years, personalizes the Holocaust. This immersion into a full-scale re-creation of the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam is part of a landmark “Anne Frank The Exhibition,” now on view at the Center for Jewish History in New York City © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

It is surreal, extraordinarily intimate, overwhelmingly emotional to find yourself standing in Anne Frank’s tiny room exactly as she had lived in it, in secret hiding for two years, just before she was taken away by Nazis to the concentration camp where she died just a few months before she would have been saved. 

There are the photos she clipped from newspapers to put on her wall, to preserve some connection to a normal life, her life before the Nazis took over Germany, then invaded the Netherlands, where her family had sought refuge. You see the plaid-cloth covered diary she began to write the day she received it, on her 13th birthday, who she sometimes wrote to as “Dear Kitty” and treated as her closest friend and confidant, revealing things her father later admitted he never knew about his daughter despite being close and living in such constant proximity.

As you stand in this space, the tiny bedroom where she sat at this desk to write, you hear her words, “When I write, I can shake off my cares, my sorrow… my spirits soar…. But will I ever be able to write something great? Will I ever be able to be a journalist or writer? Oh, I hope so.” And then, “Writing allows me to record everything – thoughts, ideals, fantasies.”

The landmark “Anne Frank The Exhibition,” now on view at the Center for Jewish History in New York City, lets you know her story in a new, more personal way © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

This is the remarkable Anne Frank The Exhibition, opening at the Center for Jewish History in New York City on January 27, coinciding with International Holocaust Remembrance Day and the 80th anniversary of the liberation of the Auschwitz death camp where one million Jews were exterminated.

For the first time, visitors outside of Amsterdam will be able to experience the Anne Frank House, one of the most visited historical sites in Europe, but in a very different way: whereas in Amsterdam, the rooms are empty as they were after the Nazis left it, here, visitors are immersed in a full-scale re-creation of the complete Annex, furnished as it would have been when Anne and her family and four other Jews spent two years hiding to evade Nazi capture.

Standing in Anne Frank’s tiny room in The Annex where she and her family hid from the Nazis for two years, personalizes the Holocaust. This immersion into a full-scale re-creation of the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam is part of a landmark “Anne Frank The Exhibition,” now on view at the Center for Jewish History in New York City © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

You see the pictures clipped from newspapers she put on her wall – a semblance of normalcy of a teenager. You hear her words from her diary as you walk through those rooms.

But there is another important difference: before and after you roam through this meticulously re-created Annex, you are immersed in her life and the lives of millions of others as you see the rise of Hitler and the Nazis, how the Holocaust was set into motion and what it was like to live with such terror– giving a broader context and meaning to Anne Frank’s story, resonating with chilling effect today.

The landmark “Anne Frank The Exhibition,” now on view at the Center for Jewish History in New York City, puts her story into context of the rise of Hitler, Nazism and the Holocaust© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Created in partnership between the Anne Frank House and the Center for Jewish History, this astonishing, Anne Frank: The Exhibition kicks off the Center‘s 25th anniversary season.

“We are absolutely thrilled to partner with the Anne Frank House on this landmark exhibition,” said Dr. Gavriel Rosenfeld, President of the Center for Jewish History. “As we approach the 80th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz in January, Anne Frank’s story becomes more urgent than ever. In a time of rising antisemitism, her diary serves as both a warning and a call to action, reminding us of the devastating impact of hatred. This exhibition challenges us to confront these dangers head-on and honor the memory of those lost in the Holocaust.” 

The exhibition, he said, “dovetails with CJH’s mission. We don’t just preserve Jewish history, we mobilize to address today’s challenges. Public programs foster understanding in a world that needs it more than ever.”

Anne Frank in 1935 in her kindergarten class. Of the 32 students, 15 were Jewish Holocaust © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

“When students learn to identify hate, learn to confront with empathy, critical thinking, they will champion justice and equality,” Ronald Leopold, the director of the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam, said at the press preview. “An exhibition like this serves as powerful reminder of the importance of confronting hate through education and understanding.

“The exhibition is a beacon of remembrance, of education, of awareness. It arrives at a very critical moment. We are living in a time when antisemitism and other forms of group hatred are on the rise, not only in this country, but my country, the Netherlands, and around the globe.” He referred to terrible incidents as recently as the day before, in Sydney, Australia.

“Anne Frank’s story is known to many but what you will experience at this exhibition goes beyond her tragic fate. The exhibition hopefully will also offer a deeper, multifaceted view of who Anne Frank was- not just a victim of the Holocaust, but just a girl, a teenager, a writer, and an enduring symbol of resilience and strength.”

The Anne Frank House, was established in 1957 in cooperation with Otto Frank, Anne Frank’s father, as an independent nonprofit organization entrusted with the preservation of the Annex and bringing Anne’s life story to world audiences in order to serve as a place for teaching and learning about the Holocaust. Each year, the Anne Frank House, welcomes 1.2 million visitors, but many are turned away (you have to reserve tickets weeks, even months in advance), and requires visitors to come to Amsterdam.

“This exhibition is not just about the past,” Leopold said at a press preview. “It is important to learn about the past, but more important to learn from the past. That is the educational mission Anne’s father, the only one of the 8 Jews in hiding at the Annex who survived, gave us when Anne Frank House opened to the public in 1960.”

Ronald Leopold, the director of the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam, holds up a photo of Anne Frank, whose story is known because of her diary, with a boy was born on the same day as Anne, who lived a block away, but except for his name, David Spanyeur, birthday and the day he was murdered, February 12, 1943 in Auschwitz, nothing is known. They are among the 1.2 million Jewish children killed in the Holocaust  © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

Leopold held up two photos, side by side. One is easily recognizable: Anne Frank. Next to her on the page is a photo a boy no one has heard of. He was born June 12, 1929, the same day as Anne, lived one block from where she lived, a 3 minutes walk. Their paths might have crossed – we don’t know. We know everything about this little girl, Anne Frank, we think, but there is no one in the world today who knows anything about this young boy except for his name, David Spanyeur, his date of birth, address and when and where he was murdered, on February 12, 1943 in Auschwitz.”

“If we bring Anne Frank to New York, and we go to remember her on International Holocaust Remembrance Day, we also bring, David Spanyeur to New York, and remember him, as we will remember 1.5 million Jewish children’s lives cut short by human beings for the single reason they were Jewish. This is the message we try to bring, that goes beyond Anne Frank.

“We will remember David Sponyeur, we will remember Anne Frank, may their memories be a blessing. As we stand in presence of Anne’s legacy, we are reminded of our shared responsibility to carry this message forward.”

Philanthropic support has made it possible for the Anne Frank House to subsidize visits for students from New York City public schools and all Title 1 public schools throughout the United States.  A special curriculum has been created for distribution to 500,000 children, and there is a 28-minute film at the center that is geared to school children.

So far, tens of thousands of already purchased tickets in advance of the opening; 150 schools have already scheduled visits from as far as California.

A Normal Teenager

Anne Frank was one of 1.5 million children murdered in the Holocaust – who, like Anne, had  dreams,  talents, hopes that were snuffed out. Anne is the one who is most and best known because of the sheer miracle of her keeping the diary and her journals being saved, Miep Gies, one of the people who protected the Franks in the Annex, finding it after the Nazis had ransacked their rooms, and keeping Anne’s writings safe because she knew how much writing meant to her, then reconnecting with Otto Frank, who was determined to fulfill his daughter’s dream of becoming a published writer, then a publisher recognizing how important the diary was because too many did not see the commercial value, or perhaps, the political correctness.

There is so much that is astonishing about this exhibit – certainly being able to stand in this exact, full-scale re-creation of Anne Frank’s secret hiding place furnished as if they had just left, before the Nazis stripped everything out. Indeed, that is how you experience The Anne Frank House in Amsterdam, totally empty. (The people from Anne Frank House in Amsterdam remarked how strange it was to see the rooms they know so well as empty, now furnished. “But we have the original diary, you have a facsimile!”) Also, it is what the exhibit is wrapped around with – the context surrounding Anne Frank’s experience and the experience of the 6 million Jews, including 1.5 million children exterminated in the Holocaust.

The landmark “Anne Frank The Exhibition,” now on view at the Center for Jewish History in New York City, includes 100 artifacts rarely if ever shown in public that put Anne’s life into context © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

The exhibit features some 100 artifacts – some rarely if ever viewed in public – including an extraordinary exhibit of the family’s personal effects from their comfortable life in Frankfurt where Otto was a banker, before the Nazis and the Holocaust – even their china, a wooden desk from 1796, and Anne’s first photo album (1929-1942). You see family photos and photos of a normal life, a playful child with a fetching smile. There is even a video of a wedding couple leaving their apartment building that happened to capture Anne peering out from a second-story window.

The landmark “Anne Frank The Exhibition,” now on view at the Center for Jewish History in New York City, includes 100 artifacts and family photos rarely if ever shown in public that put Anne’s life into context © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

This exhibit wraps Anne Frank’s personal story with context: the rise of Hitler, democratically elected Chancellor, and the Nazi domination of Germany, the invasion of the Netherlands, France and Belgium, and the implementation of the Final Solution – systemic genocide of Jews, known as the Holocaust.

Walk through the bookcase into the Annex, the secret place where Anne Frank hid with her mother, father, sister, and four others for two years hoping to escape the Nazis © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

We walk through the bookcase, and are in the hiding place in the Annex. Throughout the exhibit, you have an audio guide that you can activate, but here, in the hiding place, is where what you hear is most affecting – not just the description of the place and what their lives were like for the two years they hid away, but Anne’s own words from her diary.

“When I write, I can shake off my cares, my sorrow… my spirits soar…. But will I ever be able to write something great? Will I ever be able to be a journalist or writer? Oh, I hope so.” And then, “Writing allows me to record everything – thoughts, ideals, fantasies.”

Striving for some normalcy, Anne Frank decorated her tiny room with pictures of Hollywood celebrities and royalty; on her desk is the plaid-covered diary which immortalized her experience hiding away in The Annex for two years © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

Anne decorated her tiny cramped room with pictures – Hollywood and Royalty, like any 13-year old. But by the time she was 15, her interests shifted and deepened -she favored art and history and more serious things.

We visit all their rooms – you feel you are intruding, actually – even the bathroom, where you hear that at the stroke of 8:30, there could be no running water, flushing toilet, walking around, no noise whatsoever.

The kitchen, where the Pels slept, served as the communal kitchen and living room, and is where they played games at night and celebrated holidays like Yom Kippur and Chanukah.

Anne describes how one moment they are laughing at the comical side of their hiding, the next, feeling frightened. “Fear, tension and despair can be read on our face.”

Then, on a fateful day, the audio guide relates, a man came up the stairs with a revolver and told them to “pack their bags, you have to leave.” They were taken to prison and on to the camps.

In the next rooms, you see how the Holocaust unfolded – photos of Jews pulled from their homes, crowded into the streets and loaded onto cattle cars, deported to labor, concentration and death camps. You see soldiers shooting masses of Jews in pits dug by the victims themselves.

Photos depict the horrors of the Nazi Holocaust as you stand over a map of Europe demarking the places of Jewish genocide © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

This room has a glass floor over a map of Europe with red flags denoting where the death camps and places of genocide were and hear names recited. As you come to the end, most affecting of all, is a projection of the 1935 photo of Anne Frank in her kindergarten class of 32 students, of whom 15 were Jews, which you saw in the first gallery. As you hear their names ticked off, one by one these adorable, innocent faces are disappeared from the photo and you hear their age when their lives were snuffed out: 12, 13, 14, 15. Only 5 of the 15 survived – by going into hiding or escaping. Anne was 15.

The photo of Anne Frank in her kindergarten class, as one by one, she and her Jewish classmates are eradicated © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

The next part follows Otto’s improbable journey from the camp when it was liberated in January 1945. Otto was the only one to survive of the eight who hid in the Annex, though he had yet to learn the fate of his family. All of his worldly possession fit into a tiny canvas bag the size of a book.

For Otto, it was just 10 months after being arrested that he returned – all of those who helped them in the Annex survived, though two men were arrested and sent to concentration camps but survived.

Miep Gies in a video explains how she found and protected Anne Frank’s diary and notebooks, and presented them to Otto Frank upon his return to Amsterdam, the only one of the eight Jews she protected in The Annex to survive © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

You actually see a video of Miep Gies, one of the Dutch citizens who hid and protected the Franks in the Annex (she lived to 100 years old), relating how she went into it after the Nazis ransacked it and found Anne’s diary and notebooks, keeping them safe because she knew how important her writing was to her. She re-creates how she reached into her desk and presented Otto with Anne’s volumes.

In an interview, Otto related that at first it was difficult for him to read the diary because of his grief, but when he started reading, he couldn’t stop. To honor her wishes of becoming a published writer, he set out to find a publisher – you see his letters and the replies from editors.

“Anne Frank’s diary, ‘Untergetaucht,’ [The Annex] impressed me deeply,” one editor writes back, “a monument to the sufferings of all people in Holland during the war…. If conditions were more nearly normal, I would recommend that we undertake an English translation…”

The first U.S. edition of “Anne Frank: The Diary of a Young Girl.” Otto Frank was determined to realize his daughter’s dream of becoming a published writer © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

But ultimately Anne’s diary was published in English, “Anne Frank: The Diary of a Young Girl” – you see the first edition which includes a forward by Eleanor Roosevelt – and translated into 70 languages, selling 35 million copies – and made into a play and movie (winning Shelly Winter’s an Oscar for her performance as Auguste van Pels).

The exhibition closes quoting Anne Frank, “I’ll make my voice heard, I’ll go out into the world and work for mankind!”

“Anne Frank: The Exhibition: at the Center for Jewish History features copies of her book translated into 70 different languages © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Otto Frank is quoted saying in 1973, “Anne’s Diary made you think about the cruel persecution of the Jews during the Nazi regime, but I want to stress that even now there is in our world a lot of prejudice leading to discrimination and everyone of us should fight against it in his own circle.”

Michael S. Glickman, CEO of jMUSE, a former director of the center, said, “This institution, one of the great Jewish archives and libraries in the world, will house singularly the most important Jewish exhibition presented in this country. It is such a privilege, honor to be involved in this exhibition that carries the memory, legacy, and future of the Jewish people in such a powerful and poignant way…. As we open, we do so in memory of 6 million Jews and the 1.5 million Jewish children murdered.”

The exhibition is designed for children (ages 10 and older) and adults. All general admission tickets include the exhibition audio guide. Plan to spend two hours.

Individual tickets: Timed entry tickets, Monday through Friday: $21 (17 and under, $16); Sunday and holidays: $27 (17 and under, $22); Flex tickets, Monday through Friday: $34; Sunday and holidays: $48

Family tickets (2 adults + 2 children under 17 years): Timed entry tickets, Monday through Friday: $68 (additional 17 and under ticket, $16); Sunday and holidays: $90 (additional 17 and under ticket, $22) Flex tickets, Monday through Friday: $95 (additional 17 and under ticket, $18); Sunday and holidays: $135 (additional 17 and under ticket, $25).

Hours: Sunday through Thursday: 9:30 am-7:30 pm, Friday: 9:30 am-3:30 pm; closed Saturday.

Educational visits to the exhibition, as well as Individual and Family ticket purchases, can be scheduled by visiting AnneFrankExhibit.org.

Anne Frank The Exhibition is a limited engagement, scheduled to close on April 30, 2025. For a list of upcoming programs, visit https://www.cjh.org/.

Genealogy, Holocaust Records at the Center

The Center for Jewish History also has Geneology Research Center, with genealogists on hand who can help you trace your family’s history, has formed a new-multiyear partnership with Ancestry® to open the Ancestry Research & Reflection Room, a new space and initiative to collect, preserve and share family histories of Jewish communities worldwide.

Ancestry®, which is committed to preserving the memories of Holocaust victims and survivors and ensuring that these records are freely accessible to future generations, together with the Arolsen Archives, one of the world’s leading institutions for Holocaust documentation, expanded its Holocaust-related resources by adding 7.5 million more documents to its resources, including  Germany, Incarceration Records, 1933–1945.

Ancestry enables free searches of Holocaust documents. These records can be searched for free at a newly opened Ancestry Research & Reflection Room at the Center for Jewish History – a new space and initiative to collect, preserve and share the family histories of Jewish communities worldwide. (Photo provided by Ancestry)

These records can be searched for free at a newly opened Ancestry Research & Reflection Room at the center – a new space and initiative to collect, preserve and share the family histories of Jewish communities worldwide. It is opening to the public on January 27, coinciding with the opening of the Anne Frank exhibition, International Holocaust Remembrance Day and the 80th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz.

Center for Jewish History 15 West 16th Street, New York, 212.294.8301, cjh.org, [email protected].

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Skiing with Baby? Palisades Tahoe in California’s Sierra Nevada Proves Ideal for Multigenerational Ski Holiday

Skiing Palisades Tahoe © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Eric Leiberman & Sarah Falter, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

As our three-generational family with baby in tow pulls into Palisades Tahoe, a premier mountain resort in California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains, after a three-hour drive from Sonoma we are greeted with the Olympic flame – a reminder of having hosted the 1960 Olympics when this cherished ski destination was called Squaw Valley. Palisades Tahoe is celebrating its 75th anniversary this season (it opened on Thanksgiving, 1949), and all season long, is honoring its origins, heritage and place in developing skiing. But what really impresses us is how the resort has incorporated technology and understanding of what skiers and riders need and want into its state-of-the-art facilities.

Watching the skiers come down to the base at Palisades Tahoe © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

From the Village base, you can’t appreciate just how vast Palisades Tahoe resort. Unlike most ski mountains (especially in the Northeast), where you can see the trails meander from the summit like fingers stretching down, you can’t see the slopes. Instead, the trails seem to fold into onto themselves into the undulating hills and peaks (six on Palisades Tahoe and two more on Alpine) – making it really interesting and exciting to explore and discover. Indeed, the lifts take you over peaks so as you ride, the mountain reveals itself in dramatic fashion.

For such a vast ski area – 270 trails over 6000 skiable acres – Palisades Tahoe is remarkably easy to navigate, thanks to the tools the resort provides © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Imagine: 270 trails spread over 6,000 skiable acres across eight peaks. Such a massive network can be intimidating, but Palisades Tahoe does a stellar job to ease the way for newcomers, beginners, low intermediates and infrequent skiers, and people (like me) coming from the Northeast where ski areas are one-tenth the size. But thanks to the incredible support – including a ‘first-timer” website, resort app, ambassadors, and great signage, very soon you do get the hang of it. And once you do, skiing/snowboarding at this magnificent mountain destination, which affords some of the most spectacular vistas in the world, is thrilling.

Indeed, Palisades Tahoe is an “upside down” mountain, its trails designed with the most plentiful and interesting greens and blues at the top, so even beginners and low intermediates get the full experience and awe of the spectacular vistas that make Palisades Tahoe such a special place.

Taking in the awesome view as you travel the tram to High Camp at Palisades Tahoe © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Palisades Tahoe, which changed its famous name of Squaw Valley in 2021 out of respect to the indigenous Washoe people who occupied this land before – is now part of Alterra Mountain Company’s vast portfolio of mountain destinations and one of 58 global resorts included in Alterra’s Ikon Pass program. This is (and always was) a high-end, luxurious resort with the finest, state of the art lifts and services. Its phenomenal lift network (a mindboggling 43 lifts), multitude of peaks, and especially its European-style tram, make you feel you are skiing the Alps rather than California’s Sierra Nevada. (Its tram is iconic, and one of the older ones is repurposed as a bar at the base.)

Also, the Funitel which operates from the base, is the only one of its kind in North America, operating on two cables for enhanced stability. (It is recommended for beginners and low intermediates to ride down, rather than ski down Mountain Run, a 3.2 mile-long blue trail, not so much for its difficulty, but because it is narrow and can be crowded with fast skiers.)

The European-style tram at Palisades Tahoe makes you think you are skiing the Alps instead of California’s Sierra Nevada © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Riding the tram up to High Camp, at 8,200 ft. elevation, where you are greeted with the Olympic rings and where the heritage of having hosted the 1960 Winter Olympics (it was known as Squaw Valley then) lives on, proves one of our favorite experiences.

The tram pulls into High Camp where the Terrace Café provides the most spectacular place to enjoy wine and the view © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Here you find the Terrace Restaurant and Bar and Granite Bistro-Pizza where you can sit at walls of windows with the most magnificent views all the way to Lake Tahoe, as well as the High Camp Marketplace and a porch area that is the most magnificent viewing platform.

The Terrace Café at High Camp at Palisades Tahoe provides the most spectacular place to enjoy wine and the view © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

You also find the Olympic Museum with interesting artifacts, photos, prints of news headlines and lists of medal winners, and a video (free admission). The 1960 Olympics was most notable for USA’s Carol Heiss winning gold in figure skating and taking the Olympic oath on behalf of all the athletes, the first time a woman had this honor; Penny Pitou winning silver in Women’s Downhill and Giant Slalom, and USA winning gold in hockey over Canada and USSR (free admission).

The Olympic Rings outside the Olympic Museum at Palisades Tahoe, which hosted the 1960 Olympics when the resort was known as Squaw Valley © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

There is also a small exhibit that honors the legacy of the indigenous Washoe people.

What is more, there is an actual skating rink, which was closed during COVID and awaiting restoration.

High Camp can be enjoyed by green and blue skiers (as well as the most advanced skiers who go through narrow, ridiculously steep openings between boulders) have access to a range of trails.

Take the tram up to High Camp for a first time on snow! © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Nonskiers can also purchase a ticket for the tram to enjoy this area. (It’s also where Eric and Sarah take the baby for his first experience playing on snow!)

Considering how Palisades Tahoe is a world-class, world-famous destination drawing from far and wide (especially with the benefits of being part of Alterra Mountain Company’s Ikon Pass which incentivizes people to explore new destinations), what strikes me is the unpretentious, easy-going California-friendly feel – very possibly because it is about 4 hours drive from San Francisco, about 3 from Sonoma, so has its regulars who come season after season.

Palisades Tahoe is an “upside down” mountain – green and blue skiers get the benefit of the view to Lake Tahoe © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Of all the ski destinations we have visited, none make it easier for a newcomer, first-timer, beginner or infrequent skier to orient to the mountain, which makes the logistics as convenient as possible, especially for a ski area as humongous as Palisades Tahoe.

The trails at Palisades Tahoe seem to fold into the mountains © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Inside Tip: The paper map (yes, REALLY helpful), has a progression plan that lists the lifts and the trails in an order. Also, there are helpful ambassadors at the base. People you wind up riding the gondola or chairlift with also provide the benefit of their experience. We strongly urge visitors to read the “first timers guide” on the website (https://www.palisadestahoe.com/explore/first-timers-guide)

You will get the most out of the mountain by downloading its Palisades Tahoe App.that gives up up-to-date information on lifts and trail status, parking availability (notably, the parking lot is right at the village, a short walk to the lifts) and road conditions, and maps in your hand. You can also use the app to track your progress on the slopes. A new navigation tool within the app allows you to easily identify terrain that aligns with your ability level and guides you how to reach those areas at the resort. (https://www.palisadestahoe.com/palisades-tahoe-app)

Just how vast? Palisades Tahoe offers 3,600 skiable acres; of its 170 trails, five terrain parks and 16 bowls.

Skiing Palisades Tahoe © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Of the 170 trails on Palisades Tahoe, 25% are beginner, 45% intermediate and 30% advanced (the biggest surprise for me was the quantity and quality of green and blue trails, especially from the top). One of the hardest trails, K-2 – that the most advanced skiers have to hike to once they get off the lift – is world famous, while the longest trail, Mountain Run, at 3.2 miles, is graded intermediate (beginners and low intermediates are advised to take the Funitel down to the base not because the trail is difficult but that it is narrow and highly trafficked that can be intimidating).

Palisades Tahoe has a vertical rise of 2,850 feet, rising from a base elevation: 6,200’ to a peak elevation of 9,050’. Its six mountain peak are Snow King (7,552’); Broken Arrow (8,030’); KT-22 (8,070’); Emigrant (8,774’); Washeshu Peak (8,885’, its name changing soon); and Granite Chief (9,006’). It gets annual average annual snowfall of 400 inches (yet 300 sunny days a year!), but still has snowmaking at 11 out of 29 lifts.

Once I get my ski legs back on the greens from the Big Blue Express, I venture over to the Gold Coast Express and enjoys Gold Coast Face (the easiest blue), Mystery and Emigrant Gully. I appreciate the excellent signage that points to the easiest way down, how to get back to a lift, and even signs that warn against beginners or low intermediates from venturing down a particular trail, or taking a particular lift. And even on a busy Saturday morning, the lift line never takes long.

Watching a skier come down the black diamond trail into the base from our balcony at The Village at Palisades Tahoe © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Alpine is an experience in itself- just getting there with the new Base-to-Base gondola, which opened for the 2022-23 season, offers quite a ride with gorgeous views as it traverses the mountain peaks (it makes two stops along the way). But this involves a little bit of strategic planning, since the gondola often has holds for the wind, in which case, there is a shuttle bus available to go back to the other base.

Skiing Alpine © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Alpine, which for many years was its own ski area, has a vertical rise of 1,802 ft, from a base elevation at 6,835’ to a peak at 8,637’. It has two mountain peaks, Ward Peak (8,637’) and Scott (8,289’). It offers 100 trails (25% Beginner, 40% Intermediate and 35% Advanced) and seven bowls on 2,400 skiable acres accessed by 11 lifts, with an uphill capacity of 19,400 people per hour (snowmaking on 9 of them).

Skiing Alpine © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

At Alpine, Eric especially enjoys the Lake View lift to the summit with a spectacular view of Lake Tahoe, where you can get to two great blues, Outer Limits and Twilight Zone.

Skiing Palisades Tahoe © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Village at Palisades

Considering how vast and expansive Palisades Tahoe is, we so appreciate the logistics, especially for our multigenerational family traveling with a baby.

What a view from our balcony at The Village at Palisades Tahoe. The proximity to the lifts adds immeasurably to our ski experience © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

When we arrive at the Village at Palisades,after pulling into its own secure underground garage with elevator access to the floor, and enter our two-bedroom condo (full kitchen, dining table, living room, two bathrooms), we walk out to the balcony and are awed by the view: we are literally the closest we can possibly be to the Funitel, Base-to-Base Gondola and aerial tram, with gorgeous views of the mountain faces. The logistics prove ideal since we will be taking turns skiing and taking care of Eric and Sarah’s baby. (Palisades Tahoe does not have on-site childcare but there are daycare options nearby you can find at its website.)

The luxurious condo offers marvelous amenities – the resort charge includes garage parking, high speed internet, towels in the spa, local and toll free phone calls, 24-hour front desk, guest computer with printing, board and Xbox games to borrow at the front desk, in-room coffee and tea, multiple WiFi hot spots throughout the resort. Other guest amenities include access to eight hot tubs, four sauna, three fitness rooms, media room, and HD TVs, pool table and children’s room and guest laundry among the five, tastefully designed buildings that make up the Village resort.

Dusk at Palisades Tahoe © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Staying in The Village isn’t just massively convenient (especially with the baby) and delightfully pleasant, but we get to look out as the first golden rays of sun touch the mountain peak just outside our balcony, and watch how the sun creates a pinkish aura as it sets.

I enjoy my time strolling my grandbaby around and poking into the cute shops and galleries while Eric and Sarah ski – the village is most pleasant. I especially love the fun place to hang out under the tram and Funitel and watch the skiers come down, as a DJ spins music. We also discover a yoga studio and Sarah takes a morning class before skiing.

The Village at Palisades Tahoe © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

There are about a dozen restaurants, cafes, eateries in the Village (one has karaoke on a Friday night), a market, shops and a fantastic photo gallery.

Also the resort is also just a short hop into Tahoe City – a charming mountain village alongside Lake Tahoe, where we enjoy two fun pubs, Bridgetender Tavern and Shadyside Lounge – which got crowded, real fast.

Programs, Events, Clinics & Happy Hour

Among the many marvelous programs and clinics offered at Palisades Tahoe one that got my attention was an opportunity to join a free, interactive on-the-mountain  Guided Tour with a UC Davis Tahoe Environmental Research Center (TERC) Scientist to learn the environmental history of Alpine Meadows and the role of the US Forest Service and public lands at Palisades Tahoe.  The one-hour tours are offered at 1pm on Fridays, mid-February through March, from the Alpine Lodge (https://tahoe.ucdavis.edu/events/ski-scientist)

Sunset Happy Hour at High Camp; enjoy a champagne toast and breathtaking views of Lake Tahoe and the snowcapped peaks as the sun sets behind the Sierras (select winter dates, December-February; 4-6 pm, $24; pick up tickets, vouchers at tram base https://www.palisadestahoe.com/events-and-activities/activity-finder/sunset-happy-hour)

Guided Snowshoe Tour & Chalet Dinner at Alpine: This dining adventure starts at the Last Chair Bar in the Alpine base lodge with a hot glass of mulled wine and a 15-minute walk up a moderately pitched ski trail to the Chalet at Alpine for a four-course Bavarian inspired meal. (snowshoes provided). ($140, must be 21+, https://www.palisadestahoe.com/events-and-activities/activity-finder/snowshoe-tour-chalet-dinner).

Among other activities and special events (check the listing): snow tubing (and disco tubing); Ikon Pass Thursdays Clinic; 3-Day All-Mountain Experience; 3-Day Women of Winter Camp; Telemark Clinic.

A four-day Lift Pack saves up to 40% on lift tickets (ski any four days throughout the season); a Demo 4-Pack lets you try different gear; a perfect Progression Program helps first-time skiers and riders (13+) after three beginner lessons at Alpine, you get complimentary unrestricted pass for Palisades Tahoe.

Calling itself the Spring Skiing Capital®, Palisades Tahoe keeps its slopes open through Memorial Day. The Skiers and riders can explore Palisades Tahoe and beyond with the Ikon Pass, which provides access to 58 top ski destinations. (Ikon Passholders have access to a travel desk to help arrange the trip.) But Lake Tahoe is very much a four-season outdoor adventureland – you can even bike 80 miles around Lake Tahoe.

Located off Highway 89, between Truckee and Tahoe City, on the North Shore of Lake Tahoe, Palisades is 42 miles from Reno, 96 miles from Sacramento, and 196 miles from San Francisco via Interstate 80.

Visit Palisades Tahoe, www.palisadestahoe.com, 800-403-0206.

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social  X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures 

Wine-Tasting Exemplifies Art, Nature & Neighborhood in Sonoma, California

Enjoying a wine-tasting at Dry Creek Vineyard, a staple experience of a visit to Sonoma, California, one of the great wine-producing regions of the world © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Karen Rubin with Eric Leiberman and Sarah Falter, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

A staple of a visit to Sonoma, California, where nature and art come together in a perfect blend, is a tasting at one of the picturesque wineries and vineyards.  It is always so fascinating to learn about the art and science of winemaking, and to immerse in joy of discovering, sharing and savoring the fruit of that creative enterprise, the wine.

This trip, we return to the charming town of Healdsburg, where we have thoroughly enjoyed visiting its galleries and restaurants and the lovely town square (like Sonoma), to visit Dry Creek Vineyard. Family owned and run by second generation owner and president Kim Stare Wallace, it is also one of the last truly private, family-owned, iconic wineries of Sonoma County that consistently produces coveted 90+ point wines.

Dry Creek Vineyard is one of the last truly private, family-owned, iconic wineries of Sonoma County that consistently produces coveted 90+ point wines © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Dry Creek Vineyard, we learn, is responsible for many of the “firsts” in this rich wine-producing valley. Established in 1972, it was the first winery to open in Dry Creek Valley after Prohibition. Founder David S. Stare paved the way for a viticultural rebirth in the valley. Inspired by his trips to France, he modeled his winery after a Loire Valley chateau – making for a delightful setting in which to enjoy the wines.

Dry Creek Vineyard makes the claim of being the first winery to plant Sauvignon Blanc in the Dry Creek Valley and the first to label a wine with  the “Dry Creek Vineyard appellation. A pioneer of Bordeaux-style blending, the winery was also the first to use the term “Meritage”  (with its 1985 vintage) and the first to coin the term “Old Vine” to describe pre-Prohibition-era Zinfandel vineyards.

They make a claim of being the first to introduce the concept of Sustainable Agriculture in California, in 1998, providing a model for and an inspiration to others.

Indeed, it was during the years leading up to Dave’s retirement in 2006, that second generation owners Kim Stare Wallace and her husband, Don Wallace, began to lay the foundation for their vision for the winery’s future based on sustainability. “Their ‘no compromises’ philosophy required a complete re-invention from the inside out, including new winemaking techniques, vineyard management methods and winery upgrades on their 185 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards.”

This shift in philosophy led to dramatically reducing production while increasing quality and sharpening the focus on crafting appellation-driven terroir-focused, varietal-defining wines that have come to rival the best in California and the world. In 2015, Wine & Spirits Magazine selected Dry Creek Vineyard as one of its “top 100 Wineries.”

Its sustainable methods have worked: this year Dry Creek’s Sauvignon Blanc was crowned Best in California, and the Cabernet Sauvignon earned a stellar 95-point rating.

Dry Creek Vineyard is known for its Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Meritage blends, as well as a portfolio of limited, single-vineyard selections. Prices are moderate, ranging from $18 to $125.

We sit at lovely wooden picnic tables on the lawn outside the stone chateau, as Darrin Abel, the concierge and Wine Educator, introduces the wines for us to taste.

We start with a 2022 Dry Chenin Blanc, a staple of Dry Creek since its founding in 1972. This is a classic Loire Valley-style wine that is versatile and food friendly, especially when paired with fresh oysters and seafood. Fermented in 100% stainless steel barrels, this wine is wonderfully bright and consistent vintage after vintage. The first swirl brings aromatics of honeydew, white peach and jasmine with floral notes of citrus blossom, watermelon rind and pineapple. On the palate, the wine has refreshing flavors of peach, grapefruit and jasmine with hints of mandarin, cucumber and lemon curd. It feels soft in your mouth, with a twang of acidity. These grapes, grown in Clarksburg, “like heat” which makes it dry.  

Darrin Abel, the concierge and Wine Educator at Dry Creek Vineyard © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Abel, who has been at Dry Creek for 12 years, explains the difference between a wine that is meant to be consumed early, and one that is meant to age and mature in the bottle. “White wine is meant to be drunk immediately (the screw cap). A cork is for aging – the oxygen penetrates cork and slowly ages the wine. A screw cap has no permeability, is not meant to be aged. Our philosophy : to make wine that can be enjoyed now but can age.”

Our second wine is 2022 Taylor’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, produced from a vineyard on the western bench of Dry Creek Valley and named after Kim and Don Wallace’s daughter, Taylor. According to the winemaker’s notes, the Sauvignon Musqué grape is a unique clonal selection of the Sauvignon Blanc variety and a delicious interpretation of the classic varietal. Fermented in stainless steel tanks you taste plump flavors of peach, lemonade and orange blossom with subtle notes of grapefruit and Mandarin orange. Full of complexity and depth, the crafted Musqué clone produces a creamy feeling in the mouth. It has a nice, even flavor, good structure and body.

Darrin Abel, the concierge and Wine Educator, introduces the wines for us to taste.© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The 2020 Farmhouse Vineyard Zinfandel is the sixth vintage of Zinfandel produced from its Russian River Valley vineyard, where the cooler temperatures allow for complex aromas and flavors to develop. This was the second Zinfandel property of Dry Creek’s estate vineyards to be planted with its Heritage Clone. The winemaker’s notes explain that the vines were planted using the Heritage budwood concept to preserve the heritage of iconic old vine Zinfandel vineyards. Cuttings from a pre-Prohibition era vineyard were grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock to create a “young vine” wine with “old vine” Zinfandel characteristics. Initially, the aromas show fruit-forward tones of black and red cherries, cranberry and blackberry. Subtle notes of mocha, rose and earthy nuances come forward after several minutes of airing. On the palate, flavors of plum and strawberry mix with soft undertones of coriander, toffee, toasty cedar and roasted almonds. The wine is supple with tremendous complexity and silky tannins. The finish has a slight spiciness and refined elegance.      

We next taste the 2020 Somers Ranch Zinfandel from grapes grown on two small parcels planted on adjacent hilltops overlooking the valley. The eastern-facing hillside vineyards provide optimum sun exposure for balanced and juicy grapes. This distinctive property was one of the first vineyards in Dry Creek Valley to be planted utilizing the Heritage Clone over 20 years ago, Abel explains.This bold Zinfandel is luxurious and fresh, with ripe fruit flavors of blackberry, cherry and cranberry, with aromatic undertones of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg and firm tannins and structure.

Dry Creek Vineyard’s 2019 Meritage “Alluvial Gap,” which has been rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast, highlights a microregion in the Dry Creek Valley known as Lytton Springs district© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The last wine we taste is our favorite: 2019 Meritage “Alluvial Gap,” which has been rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast and highlights a microregion in the Dry Creek Valley known as Lytton Springs district. The Meritage blend is led by Cabernet Sauvignon with three additional Bordeaux varietals to add complexity and depth. It was inspired by decades of working with Bordeaux varietals planted in the different districts and vineyards of Dry Creek Valley, including its Endeavour Vineyard, where the soils are gravelly, clay loam. “Five decades of experience have provided the knowledge of which properties can provide the best fruit our region can offer.” We learn that the wine spends 11-17 days in fermenters at 82-88 degrees F, then 19 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels (43 percent new oak) – such detail that I find fascinating, along with the precise “recipe” of the different grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (60 percent) with three additional Bordeaux varietals  (Merlot 20%, Petit Verdot, 16%, Cabernet Franc, 4%). “The grapes are crushed and fermented separately, then blended,” Abel tells us. “It really shows off the artistry of the wine maker.”

At first swirl, the wine displays powerful aromas of black currant, plum and blueberry. Several more minutes reveal hints of black and white pepper, fennel and rose petal. The palate is full and rich with flavors of black cherry and blackberry, with notes of coriander, thyme and fine leather. The tannins are fine yet firm, with a round, plush texture and a rich, lingering finish – what I would describe as ”full bodied.” Not surprisingly, this is also the most expensive bottle of the day, $70.

After our winetasting, we go to explore.

Dry Creek Vineyard has an Insectary Garden which you can walk through and learn how it is the basis of sustainable agriculture, designed to attract beneficial insects like ladybeetles, bees, ground beetles, hoverflies, minute pirate bugs, lacewings and wasps.  The plants provide an environment attractive to natural enemies of crop pests, a natural means of controlling harmful pests like include leafhoppers, spider mites, leafrollers and mealybugs. This natural means of controlling harmful pests also assists beneficial insects in pollination and creates a balanced growing environment, the notes explain. Other animals that are considered beneficial include lizards, spiders, toads and hummingbirds. Beneficial insects are as much as ten times more abundant in insectary gardens.

“In addition to the garden being a beautiful focal point for the winery, our goal is to have this insectary further enhance our sustainable farming practices. Its contribution to a balanced ecosystem in the vineyard will be a key for years to come,” the panel explains.

The list of plants here include black eyed Susan, butterfly weed, California fuchsia, Chinese Fringe Flower, coneflower, Sunflower, Echinacea “Ruby Star”

Other sustainability techniques are described: solar panels help reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 85 tons a year, the equivalent of planting 3,400 trees a year; bluebird houses, bat houses, owl boxes and raptor perches provide specialized housing and shady platform perches to encourage birds of prey to adopt the Dry Creek vineyards as their feeding ground – a natural control for pests such as insects, voles and gophers, without the need for chemical deterrents; a habitat enhancement project provides habitat for endangered Coho and Chinook salmon and Steelhead trout; deficit irrigation uses state of the art equipment to  measure specific moisture needs of each individual block of vines, monitor soil conditions and adjust levels of irrigation to conserve water – virtual dry farming; growing cover crops like alfalfa and bell beans between vines to help rebuild depleted soil by increasing the available nitrogen and organic material, while minimizing the need to utilize fertilizer and using special seed blends that flower at different times to attract beneficial insects to help control pest populations.

Dry Creek Vineyard is one of the pioneers and leaders in sustainable viniculture © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Second generation winery partner Don Wallace, the driving force behind sustainable farming practices at Dry Creek Vineyard, has established Dry Creek Vineyard as a leader in the sustainable agriculture movement in Dry Creek Valley and the industry. The winery and its 185 acres of estate vineyards are 100% certified California Sustainable.

Also among its other notable firsts, Wallace also founded one of the first wine clubs in the U.S. “with a vision of creating a family of wine lovers united in their passion” for handcrafted wines. Events like its recent Holiday Winemaker dinner, where longtime members gather together, help to realize that vision.

Dry Creek has an excellent website that makes it easy to explore the different wine offers, arrange shipping, give as a gift, enroll in their club, or gift a club membership.

Visit 10 am-4 pm. Reservations Recommended.

Dry Creek Vineyard, 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448, [email protected], drycreekvineyard.com.

Art & Nature & Neighborhood

Wine tastings are the perfect metaphor for Sonoma County, where art and nature intertwine just about everywhere you go in the most marvelously energizing, invigorating, vitalizing and inspiring ways.

The towns of Healdsburg and Sonoma are like that – exquisite architecture, history, culture, intrinsically blended together with vineyards, farms and fields, wilderness.

Porchfest at Sebastopol © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Sonoma is a place of community and festivals. We visit Sebastopol for its fall Porchfest – really a giant multi-blocks party where people’s porches turn into stages for folk and rock music (you feel you have been dropped into the 1960s), the streets are full of art and food stalls and there is just a lot of good will and neighborliness, where people bump into friends and meet new ones.

Artist Patrick Amiot recycles junk into whimsical sculptures that populate Franklin Avenue in Sebastopol © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

A particular street in Sebastopol, Florence Avenue, is famous for the whimsical sculptures out of recycled junk by artist Patrick Amiot, painted in bright colors by his wife, that decorate just about every home. The Sebastopol Center for the Arts hosts Sonoma County Art Trails – Juried Open Studios – Sebastopol Center for Arts, 282 S. High St., Sebastopol, CA 707-829-4797, SebArts.org

A family festival at the Bavarian-heritage Tourist Club of San Francisco © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Sonoma is just 30 miles north of San Francisco, and we have a marvelous time at an annual family festival, one of the public events at the otherwise private hiking club that dates from 1912, Tourist Club of San Francisco (we hike to get to it), delightfully Bavarian themed (even beer, pretzels and oompah band and dancing, people in Bavarian dress, and wonderful games (touristclubsf.org).

A scene that evokes “Sound of Music”: hiking to the Tourist Club of San Francisco for its family festival © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

From there, we hike down a trail into Muir Woods National Park, go through the park and connect with the utterly magnificent Canopy View Trail back up to where we parked.

Hiking the Canopy Trail from Muir Woods National Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Sonoma has some phenomenal state and county parks. One of our favorites is the extraordinary Jack London State Historic Park (also known as Beauty Ranch) in the town of Glen Ellen (which also hosts marvelous street festivals). Beauty Ranch was the famous novelist’s home and ranch where he pioneered and experimented with sustainable farming and ranching techniques. There is an outstanding museum in the stone House of Happy Walls that his wife, Charmian, built in 1919 to serve as a museum after Jack London died (she lived there from 1935 until 1945). We visit the ruins of Wolf House, London’s 26-room dream house (mansion) which was in its final stages of completion when it burned down. We walk the trail to see where Jack London’s ashes are buried in a tiny, totally unpretentious gravesite. On previous visits we have walked trails through the ranch and farm area, through a redwood forest to a small lake.

At Jack London State Historic Park, visit the ruins of Wolf House, London’s 26-room dream house which was in its final stages of completion when it burned down © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The historic park, a national historic landmark, introduces visitors to the historical and natural features of Jack London’s lifestyle, his contribution to American literature (I am inspired to re- read “Call of the Wild” with new perspective and “White Fang”), his efforts to develop and demonstrate sustainable agricultural techniques and his love for the natural environment. There are gorgeous hikes through redwood forest. (2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, CA 95442, 707-938-5216, www.jacklondonpark.com)

Enjoying the view with a whimsical animal friend at Sonoma Botanical Garden © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Also in Glen Ellen, we discover the Sonoma Botanical Garden, which provides lovely trails through the different ecosystems – California Oaks, Asian Woodlands, Rose Garden, Stewartia Grove, a Nepalese Prayer Flags section (at the summit), terraced lawn, picturesque ponds with Japanese statuary and seating areas. It offers the opportunity to see rare and endangered plants and conservation in action. The paths are lined with whimsical sculptures of animals. (12841 Hwy 12, Glen Ellen, CA 95442, 707-996-3166, [email protected], sonomabg.org)

For pampering, there is Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary (a member of the Green spa network), in the historic village of Freestone, on the scenic Bohemian Highway. A gorgeous Japanese-style building and stunning gardens, the spa features the Cedar Enzyme Bath, a therapeutic body treatment from Japan “found nowhere else on this continent.”  This is a fermentation bathing ritual where you immerse in a mixture of soft and fragrant ground cedar and rice bran pulsating with enzyme activity to stimulate your metabolism. This warm and stress reducing treatment offers health benefits, from improving circulation to relieving joint and muscle pain, cleansing skin (707-823-8231, osmosis. com).

The spa is just up the road from  the incredibly popular Wild Flour Bread and the Freestone Artisan Cheese shops, an amazing artisanal jewelry shop and a farm stand, before making our way up a winding road to an old growth forest where the redwoods rival Muir Woods.

We also visit one of our favorite restaurants, Salt & Stone (9900 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, CA 95452, 707 623 4125, SaltStoneKenwood.com)

Sonoma County Tourism, 800-576-6662, [email protected]www.sonomacounty.com.

See also

WINE & ART: THE PERFECT PAIRING IN SONOMA, CALIFORNIA

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures 

Best of the Alps Destinations, Where Skiing Began, Showcase Heritage, Authenticity

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Best of the Alps, a tourism promotion consortium founded more than 40 years ago, recently came to town to remind American travel writers that this is where skiing began over 100 years ago and that these iconic destinations are still for the most part villages and towns where people live year-round, where tourists come year-round, and where you can be immersed in heritage and traditions as you experience all that the mountains have to offer.

Best of the Alps is a consortium of 10 resorts, with a centuries long heritage of tourism.

“There is more to skiing than a purpose-built resort,” said, Sammy Salm, CEO of the Best of Alps. “These villages have existed for 100 years, some for more than 300 years, attracting summer travelers. Then, 155 years ago, some hotels decided to stay open in winter.” They built the first motor-driven ski lift, hosted the first Winter Olympics.

These are the most authentic places, he noted. Most of the businesses have been in the same family for generations. There are cultural and sports events throughout the year – some 1,000 in 10 destinations – covering all manner of interests. You enjoy cuisine that reflects the locality – “farm to table” before the expression was a thing.

There are iconic hotels – some five star, some with a century of history but with the modern amenities and technology to suit today’s skiers, even Americans. And while the Alps are regarded as upscale, there are accommodations to meet every budget and style of travel – you can find hostels; cool, trendy boutiques; hotels ideal for families, multi-generational families and women traveling solo. “There is something for every level, age, interest, summer and winter.”

Best of the Alps Span Austria, Switzerland, France and Italy: Chamonix Mont-Blanc, St. Anton Am Arlberg, Crans-Montana, Kitzbuhel, Megeve, Garmisch-Partenkirghen, Lech Zurs am Arlberg, Cortina D’Ampezzo, Courmayeur, and Davos – each manifesting its own charm and authentic style, a strong sense of place, identity. Together, they form the “cradle of skiing.”

“If you like skiing, you will want to go to the Alps at least once,” reflects Cortina’s Maria Alessandra Montuori.

Cortina D’Ampezzo, the “Queen of the Dolomites” in a national park within a UNESCO World Heritage Area, epitomizes charm, glamour and elegance (photo: Cortina Marketing)

Cortina D’Ampezzo, the “Queen of the Dolomites” in a national park within a UNESCO World Heritage Area, epitomizes charm, glamour and elegance. Today, it is in northern Italy, but for 400 years (until 1900), Cortina was part of Austro-Hungarian Empire, so manifests an Austrian ambiance. There is evidence of ancient Roman settlements, traces of the Barbarians. During its strategic geographic location on one of the crossings through the Alps, Cortina was part of the Republic of Venice and even today is on the Venice Simplon train route from Paris to Venice. The railway arrived in the mid-1800s bringing the first wealthy Anglo-Saxon, German and Russian travelers. Newspa­per articles and guidebooks written by pioneering mountaineers soon made Cortina d’Ampezzo known all over the world.  Beginning in 1896, Cortina’s “purity of air” made it one of the first tuberculosis retreats. Visitors started playing golf in summer (there are two courses), then skiing. Today, the town of 6,000 inhabitants offers 20,000 guest beds, 85 restaurants and 200 shops.

Set on a plateau 4500 ft. high, Cortina d’Ampezzo, with 6,000 inhabitants, offers skiers breathtaking scenery from an altitude of 1224 to 3248 meters. The resort’s three ski areas are connected by a free bus and offer 120 km of slopes (the longest trail is 10 km),accessed by 35 lifts with snow making. Winter activities also ski mountaineering, sledding in the moonlight after a dinner in a mountain hut, 70 km of Nordic skiing and 100 km of snowshoeing and 50 km of winter hiking. In summer, Cortina offers 400 km of hiking trails, biking on hundreds of kilometres of marked trails amid magnificent Dolomite scenery, mountain climbing, an indoor climbing center, indoor and outdoor tennis; golf, summer ice skating; horse riding, canyoning, and activities families can enjoy together – water park, skate park, zipline.

“’New’ isn’t a new lift, it’s a new way to enjoy mountain,” Montuori tells me. “People can exercise the way they like.”

Seventy years since it was the first Italian venue for the Olympics, in1956, Cortina will host the 2026 Winter Olympics (with Milan), spurring new development and improvements.

The most convenient airports are Venice (there is bus service from Venice Airport), Treviso, and Innsbruck; the train station is Toblach. (cortina.dolomiti.org)

“Discover your true nature” is the motto of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, a multifaceted mountain region at the base of the 2,962 meter high Zugspitze mountain. It features winter sports with 207 km of ski runs (longest is 6.8 km) from a base at 708 meters to 2,962 meters, state-of-the art lifts, snowmaking on four long runs into the valley, backcountry skiing; the legendary ski stadium and ski jump and on Tuesdays and Thursdays, the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn invites ski alpinists to a “Ski Tour Evening.” Also: 28 km of cross-country ski tracks, the famous biathlon and cross-country ski center in Kaltenbrunn (snow-making and flood lights for night-skiing); Visitors’ Biathlon in Kaltenbrunn on Wednesdays); ice skating and curling at the Olympic Ice Sports Center on one of the many natural lakes. The racy 1.6 km run down from the cozy lodge, St.-Martins-Hütte am Grasberg, is an insider tip for bold sledders. Garmisch-Partenkirchen also offers 110 km of groomed winter hiking trails. Special experiences: a torch hike through the Partnachklamm gorge featuring amazing ice and snow formations; a romantic ride in a horse sleigh; guided winter hikes from the Gesundheits-Eck meeting point (book January-March).

In warmer seasons, hiking in the Garmisch-Partenkirchen region offers varied landscapes and breathtaking views of hiking along 300 km (124 miles) of paths (the GaPa tour planner, www.gapa.de/tourenplaner, has detailed route and trail descriptions); you can plan multi-day tour with overnight stays in rustic mountain lodges, or guided hikes ranging from herbal excursions to therapeutic climatic healing hikes. Also rock climbing, mountain biking, kayaking and canoeing, paragliding, hang gliding, tennis, horseback riding, fishing, archery or a ride in a historic horse-drawn carriage, plus 23 golf courses within one hour’s drive.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen, with 10,000 guest beds, 172 restaurants and 450 shops, can be reached by German Rail, Deutsche Bahn (Saturdays ICE connection from Hamburg, Berlin and Dortmund-Ruhr Area-Cologne with no train changes). Nearest airports are Munich and Innsbruck. (www.gapa.de)

Kitzbühel and the holiday resorts of Reith, Aurach and Jochberg, Austria, known globally as a winter holiday destination with almost 130 years of skiing tradition, offers a mix of down-to-earthiness and cosmopolitan outlook, of rural charm and urban flair. Its accessibility, long winters, reliable snow conditions, multitude of sports activities and maximum comfort are the hallmarks of this town, also lovingly referred to as “Gamsstadt” (chamois town). It offers a total of 234 km of downhill runs (longest is 8.3 km), including the world-famous “Streif”. Families will delight in the free practice lifts in the valley. Kitzbühel also offers 70 km of cross-country skiing, winter hiking and snowshoeing, tobogganing, ice skating, curling and new trend sports. In summer Kitzbuhel offers 1,000 km hiking trails; four golf courses; 1,200 km road network for road bikes and 800 km for mountain bikers. It is reached by train from the Kitzbuhel station; the nearest airports are Salzburg, Innsbruck and Munich. (www.kitzbuehel.com)

Davos Klosters, one of 10 Best of the Alps destinations, received its first winter guests 150 years ago. Today, it offers 300 km of slopes among six ski areas (photo: Davos Klosters)

Davos, Europe’s highest city and the picturesque alpine village of Klosters are set amid stunning mountain scenery and the granddaddy of winter Alpine tourism. Davos Klosters received its first winter guests 150 years ago. Today, it offers 300 km of slopes among six ski areas: Madrisa and Rinerhorn are the family-friendly ski areas, Jakobshorn is the “fun mountain” for freestylers and après-ski connoisseurs. Parsenn is the classic ski area with wide pistes, Pischa is considered the off-piste paradise and Schatzalp is the “chill” ski area for pleasure skiers. Its 275 km of ski sloopes (longest is 12 km), rise from 1124 to 3146 meters. Among the activities: daily experiences with local guides, an extensive network (100 km) of cross-country tracks, hiking trails (170 km in winter, 700 km in summer), mountain biking routes (700 km) in all the tributary valleys, adventure and theme parks, a lively art and culture scene including the Kirchner Museum.

Davos Klosters, which offers childcare programs, has also been awarded the Family Destination quality seal, which distinguishes holiday resorts that specifically match offerings to children. Families can enjoy learn-to-ski programs, family-friendly ski traiing area; Madrisa – Switzerland’s first child-friendly six-seat chairlift up to Schaffurggli; a Nordic Park; and Schatzalp, a leisurely 2.8 km tobaggon-run that descends to Davos Platz, ice skating, hockey.

Summer activities include an aquatic center; wakeboarding; Sertig waterfall; river rafting; 18-hole and nine-hole golf courses; vintage Rhaetian Railway and cultural offerings. Families will particularly enjoy the Davos Adventure park; GWunderwald; Schatzalp summer tobaggon; kick bikes; Madrisa; Dwarf trail; Foxtrail Davos (solve puzzles to discover the mountains)

Take the train to Davos; the nearest airport is Zurich (www.davos.ch)

Lech Zurs am Arlberg is a cosmopolitan mountain village of just 1,500 inhabitants in a mountain region of five villages which form Austria’s largest ski destination (the fifth largest in the world) – affording 305 km of ski trails (it’s famous for its off-piste territory, which is best explored with a guide). Besides alpine skiing there is also snowshoeing, cross-country, tobaggoning, sledding, ice skating, curling, horsedrawn sleigh rides, art installations, Arlberg can be combined with visits to Vienna or Zurich (by train). Closest airports are Altenrheim, Innsbruck, Zurich, Friedrichshafen (www.lechzuers.com)

St. Anton am Arlberg is a Tyrolian mountain village, where you can enjoy uncrowded outdoors with all the amenities of an international holiday resort. Just 2400 inhabitants host 11,623 guest beds. The destination offers 305 km of ski slopes (longest is 9 km0, accessed by 88 lifts. There is also 40 km of cross-country skiing; 80 km of winter hiking (300 km of summer hiking). It is accessed by train to St. Anton am Arlberg; the nearest airports are Innsbruck, Friedriichshafen, Zurich, Memmingen and Munich (www.stantonamarlberg.com)

Chamonix-Mont Blanc valley is a land of legend full of history and sporting feats, a natural environment and a mecca for skiers, snowboarders and free riders. The astronomical 1000 km of slopes, which rise from1,035-4,809 meters, are served by 44 lifts including the Mont-Blanc tramway and the cable car of the Brévent. “The lift system in the Chamonix Valley enables anyone to reach a unique alpine environment of shaded forests, scintillating glaciers, alpine meadows and dramatic peaks.” The Aiguille du Midi cable gives unforgettable view of the Mont-Blanc range. The Montenvers and mer de glace is an exceptional sightseeing excursion on the nostalgic red cog railway to the “sea of ice “glacier. The resort of 20,000 guest beds, 120 restaurants and 400 shops, also offers 53 km of cross-country skiing.  In summer among the 46 activities include 350 km of hiking, mountaineering, paragliding, golfing. It is reached by train to Chamonix-Mont Black; nearest airport is Geneva. (www.chamonix.com)

Courmayeur, on the other side of Chamonix-Mount Blanc, at the foot of Mont Blanc, is described as “a pure, authentic, elegant, traditional, cosmopolitan, lively and regenerating mountain experience both in summer and in winter. The smallest of the “Best of the Alps” group, it is a “hidden gem.” These are the many facets of the soul of Courmayeur Mont Blanc, a unique location offering visitors a chance to reconnect with their inner self and engage in life at the right pace.” The 33 km of ski slopes go from an altitude of 1224 to a summit at 4810 meters. This is an intimate resort, with just 2798 inhabits and 6715 guest beds, 96 restaurants and 170 shops. The nearest airport is Geneva, nearest train is Pre-Saint Didier or Chamonix-MontBlanc. (www.courmayeurmontblanc.it)

Between Courmayeur and Chamonix is a glacier which can be skied with a guide (you need to be upper intermediate or expert – it is a long trail).

Megeve was a purpose-built ski resort by the Rothschilds (photo: Megeve-Saint Gervais)

Megeve is a small alpine village nested at the foot of Mont Blanc that dates from the 12th century. In the 1920s, a Rothschild who was insulted by the unwelcoming attitude in St. Moritz, decided to create a new resort in France. It is one of the first ski resorts in France, had the first cable car, France’s first ski champion, the first fondue restaurant, and it was here that the French song made famous by Frank Sinatra (“My Way”) was written. It boasts the highest altitude 18-hole golf course. Megeve set the standard as a “place to be” for the jet set. (The Rothschilds still own the resort). It’s still high-end, with 32 hotels of which 10 are five-star; three Michelin star chefs (one three-star chef is rated among the top 10 in the world). It offers 400 km of ski trails (longest is 3.6 km), accessed by 107 lifts, plus 40 km of cross-country, 50 km of winter hiking (150 km in summer). Visitor amenities include 43,000 guest beds,  82 restaurants, 200 shops and galleries, 17 well-being and spa centers, a balneoform and aquatic area, indoor/outdoor skating rink. You can arrange an overnight stay in an igloo. Megeve has its own airport, 15 minutes away, or Geneva Airport, one hour away; or by train to Sallanches. (www.megeve.com)   

Crans-Montana, set on a sunny plateau above the Rhone valley, offers views of the Plaine Morte glacier and summits from Breithorn to Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. It offers 140 km of skiing (longest trail is 12 km), accessed by 25 lifts, plus 25 km of cross-country; 65 km of hiking (320 km in summer) and 180 km of mountainbike trails. Convenient airports are Sion (30 minutes), Geneva, Zurich and Milan; the train station is Siders. (www.crans-montana.ch)

Ski passes like Alterra Mountain Company’s Ikon Pass and Vail Resorts’ Epic Pass have given Americans an incentive to explore these legendary international ski destinations, from Europe to Asia to South America.

Ikon Pass, Alterra Mountain Company’s pass program, provides access to 58 destinations including three of the Best of the Alps resorts: Chamonix Mont-Blanc Valley in France, Cortina in Italy and Kitzbühel in Austria. (Passholders have access to Ikon Pass Travel, a ski specialist travel planning agency where passholders can have exclusive access to special pricing, promotions and deals.)

Vail Resorts’ Epic Pass includes Arlberg (Lech Zurs, St. Anton) in Austria and Crans-Montana, Switzerland.

Those seeking to venture afar can also take advantage of Ski.com, a ski travel specialist that can help you put together all the elements of your trip.

More information at www.bestofthealps.com.

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures 

Beyond the Biggies, New York State Has an Embarrassment of Riches When it Comes to Ski Areas

A bluebird day to ski Windham Mountain, Catskills, NY © Dave E. Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Laini Miranda and Dave E. Leiberman, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

New York State has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to skiing. Besides the world-class Olympic Regional Development Authority ski areas of Whiteface (and all the Olympic sports facilities in Lake Placid), Gore Mountain in the Adirondacks and Belleayre Mountain in the Catskills, there are some 50 other areas throughout the state – more ski areas, in fact, than any other state.

“New York is blessed with having more ski areas than any state in the nation, so residents and visitors are never more than a couple hours away from great skiing,” Empire State Development Vice President and Executive Director of Tourism Ross D. Levi said. “Whether swooshing down world class mountains in the Catskills and Adirondacks operated by Olympic Authority or any of the private ski slopes across the state, guests can conveniently enjoy some of the country’s best skiing in a magical winter wonderland. When paired with other fun experiences from invigorating snow shoeing to family ice skating, relaxing spas, friendly main streets and cozy inns, visitors can come see for themselves how easy it is to love New York in Winter.”

There are ski destinations that are big, incredibly popular and iconic like Hunter Mountain (now part of Vail Resorts and the Epic Pass) and Windham Mountain Club (which offers a membership-style experience), to areas that provide a very intimate, classic experience with great affordability, ideal for families and beginners.

Hunter Mountain Adds Two Lifts

Hunter Mountain, an iconic Catskills ski resort which opened 65 years ago and is now part of Vail Resorts (so one of the Epic Pass resorts), celebrated a major milestone with two new lifts: Broadway Express: a new high-speed, 6-person chair replaced the existing 4-person fixed-grip Broadway Lift and reduces wait times at one of the mountain’s most popular lifts while increasing uphill capacity by 55%; Otis Quad: the existing 4-person fixed-grip Broadway Lift replaced the 2-person fixed-grip E lift, increasing uphill capacity giving more time to learn new skills and explore terrain.

Vail Resorts’ investment also added new state-of-the-art automated snowmaking systems on three classic and beloved trails, Belt Parkway, Clair’s Way, and Way Out, accelerating the resort’s ability to open terrain earlier in the season, disperse skier traffic, provide greater efficiency to rebuild snow bases later in the season and allow for better connection of Hunter North and Hunter West more directly and earlier in the season.

Since opening 65 years ago on January 9, 1960 with the original “B” Lift in operation, Hunter Mountain proved to be an innovator and leader in the ski industry, from being the first ski resort in New York to install snowmaking, to being the first in the world to feature both top-to-bottom, 100 percent snowmaking coverage; and to being the first in the nation to install an automated snowmaking system. As the resort has grown from a family-owned area and evolved over the decades with new lifts and new peaks, and on-mountain lodging, it has emerged as a major ski destination.  

Hunter’s has a vertical of 1,600 feet, from a base at 1,600 ft to its summit at 3,200 ft. It offers 320 skiable acres and four terrain parks – 67 trails of which 25% are beginner, 30% are intermediate and 45% are advanced – accessed by 13 lifts. There is also tubing.

Hunter has a commitment to zero net operating footprint by 2030. From snowmaking upgrades to new waste sorting, Hunter is further reducing emissions with energy-efficiency projects. In 2023, the resort reached 100% renewable electricity and decreased waste to landfill by nearly 6.1 million and this season is continuing to better manage waste streams.

Save up to 15% when you bundle lift tickets & lodging.Lodging spans the old-age charm of the Kaatskill Mountain Club & Spa to family-friendly slopeside condos (huntermtn.com, 518-263-4223)

Windham Mountain Club

Windham Mountain Club has reorganized as a membership club (actually returning to its roots) but is still open to the public – all skiers benefiting from minimal lift lines and uncrowded slopes because of the capacity limits on daily lift tickets and season passes. (The reorganized Windham Mountain Club is also continuing its longstanding partnership with the Adaptive Sports Foundation.)

Ski Windham Mountain, Catskills, NY © Dave E. Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Set amid 1,200 pristine alpine acres (so plenty of room to roam), Windham Mountain Club has continued to add improvements for the 24/25 season following last year’s transformative rebranding and investments, continuing to reimagine the mountain as a world-class, year-round destination and New York’s premier public-private mountain resort and membership club.

This season there are more enhancements to snowmaking including automating two of their trails, “Why Not?” and “What’s Next?” with 47 new snow guns on the “Why Not?” trail and 18 rebuilt and refurbished fan guns on “Warmup”. The resort also upgraded their groomers with SNOWsat LiDAR technology.

Windham has a vertical rise of 1,600 to its summit at 3,100 ft. Its 54 trails and six terrain parks on 285 skiable acres range from 300 to 12,500 feet long, accessed by 11 lifts including a high-speed six-passenger, 3 high-speed quads, 1 triple, 1 double, 5 surface (97% snowmaking). But the best thing about Windham is that you really feel like it is a private club (which is how Windham began).

Windham Mountain Club members-only benefits include: use of a state-of-the-art fitness center and a Spa and Wellness facility; a dedicated adventure concierge for personalized outdoor experiences, including year-round guided hikes and memorable summer activities such as guided horseback riding, fly fishing, and a clay shooting range are available for members; and members-only dining options such as “Cin Cin!” which is an Italian Alps-inspired mid-mountain restaurant, and the Windham Grill.

Book a two-night stay at the Winwood Inn and receive a complimentary third night. Accommodations at the Winwood Inn and Condos also include access to reduced ticket rates, every day of the season (www.windhammountainclub.com/ski-and-stay-package, windhammountainclub.com)

More Catskills Gems

Thunder Ridge Ski Area, Patterson, is really geared for families – from the ease of access, ease of reserving lift tickets, rentals, lessons (book online, since walk-ins are only accommodated if the mountain has not reached capacity), serious snowmaking and night skiing. ThunderRidge offers private lessons from age 4, family private lessons, group lessons, Mommy/Daddy & Me, and race teams. Open Monday-Friday, 10 am -9 pm, Saturday, 9-9 pm, Sunday 9 am to 5 pm. just 60 minutes from NYC, you can even take Metro North (so hop on after work) and take advantage of free shuttle service to and from the Patterson train station, (137 Birch Hill Rd & Rte 22, Patterson, 845-878-4100, ThunderRidgeski.com)

Riding the lift at West Mountain © Dave E. Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

West Mountain, Queensbury:  An ski and outdoor activities year-round community with a family-friendly atmosphere (“True to our roots since 1961!”), West Mountain offers an authentic upstate experience on the mountain. Nestled at the foot of the Adirondack , it is conveniently located off I-87. Family-owned and operated, West Mountain continues to evolve to meet the needs of families as well as skiing and riding loyalists and year-round outdoor enthusiasts. (westmountain.com)

Greek Peak Mountain Resort, Cortland, celebrating its 65th anniversary in 2024, has invested $1 million in ski area improvements (photo: Greek Peak)

Greek Peak Mountain Resort, Cortland, celebrating its 65th anniversary in 2024, has invested $1 million in ski area improvements including new snowmaking equipment that enables the resort to cover the equivalent of 16.5 football fields with a foot of snow in a 24-hour period. They also upgraded the Chair 1 lift, trail lighting, and purchased new rental equipment. This season, Greek Peak made lift improvements and widened the Castor Connection trail for safer merging. The ski area installed new hand ticket scanners to complement its online purchasing portal (it is now cashless resort), so you can just head straight to the lift when arriving (greekpeak.net

Holiday Mountain, Monticello. New owners have invested millions of dollars in renovations and upgrades including expanding snowmaking to trails that had not had snowmaking before, re-opening dormant trails, renovating and upgrading their chairlifts as well as updating the base lodge. This year, Holiday Mountain is benefitting from $5MM in improvements and upgrades: 3 new trails (one, Hackledam, is now the steepest in the Catskills) and a new race trail with Giant Slalom races and timing; updated learning center for “terrain-based learning;” and a newly rebuilt quad chair 2,700 feet long. They installed lights on the three new trails and replaced other lights to expand night skiing. They have also greatly enhanced the snow experience with improved snowmaking and grooming. They also installed thrree miles of fiberoptic cable, electrical upgrades and improved parking areas. (skiholidaymtn.com)

Plattekill Mountain opened a new intermediate new trail, “Whiskeys Way,” for a total of 41 ski trails. Snowmaking and grooming are improved with 13 new snowguns, 3,500 feet of new snowmaking pipe and a new winch cat for snow grooming. Plattekill has partnered with 37 mountains for free and discounted tickets with the purchase of Plattekill Mountain season pass which also includes “Platty Perks” for discounts at local businesses. Their season pass includes new “Buddy Passes” for passholders to bring a friend on non-holiday Friday and Sunday for 50% off the friend’s ticket. Plattekill also installed new electric vehicle charging stations. (plattekill.com)

Adirondacks’ Uncrowded, Affordable Hidden Gems

One of the best-kept secrets in upstate New York is that the Adirondack Mountains have a handful of hidden gem ski resorts ideal for novice to expert skiers, including two ski areas that offer free skiing.

Oak Mountain ski area in New York State’s Adirondacks has been delighting skiers since 1948 © Laini Miranda/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Oak Mountain, Speculator: This quaint ski area – popular with families since 1948 though a new discovery for us – offers 22 trails (snowmaking on 40%; longest run is 7,920 ft.), a 650-foot vertical from base (1,750 feet) to summit (2,400 feet), and four lifts (quad, two T-bars and a surface lift). Lift tickets to Oak Mountain are very reasonable. Full-day tickets are $44, four-hour tickets are $37, and two-hour tickets are only $30. (Capacity is limited, and lift tickets, rentals and lessons must be booked in advance online.) In addition to downhill skiing and snowboarding, Oak features four lanes of snow tubing and miles of snowshoeing trails that take you through a majestic forest. Oak Mountain is a three-season resort (518-548-3606, www.oakmountainski.com)

Among the nearby lodges is Lorca ADK, recently renovated from a historic motel to accommodate stays year-round. Lorca ADK is a classic drive-in lodge, reimagined as a self-check property for the contemporary traveler. It’s surrounded by forests, across the road from Indian Lake (a marina is right there) with gorgeous islands. The eight units provide coffee, tea, mini-fridges, s’mores and firewood. The property offers grills, fire pits, lawn games, and nature walk. Lorca ADK is about 20 minutes from Oak Mountain, and about 30 minutes from Gore Mountain Resort. (Lorca ADK, Sabael, NY, 518-300-3916, [email protected], thelorca.com/adk)

McCauley Mountain, Old Forge: A charming resort near the Adirondack wilderness. Get a great night’s sleep at the Adirondack Lodge Old Forge, stop by Keyes’ Pancake House for breakfast and Tony Harper’s Pizza and Clam Shack for lunch/dinner. (mccauleyny.com)

Mt. Pisgah Recreation Center. Saranac Lake: A welcoming community ski hill with night skiing and tubing, with half-day weekend ski passes available for $15. Kick off your boots at Traverse Lodge or Hotel Saranac, and enjoy dinner at nearby Bitters & Bones. (https://www.saranaclakeny.gov/)

Titus Mountain (Malone): A family-friendly ski gem a short drive from Plattsburgh, Lake Placid, Watertown and Northern Vermont, with terrain for all levels. Check out the rustic cabins at Deer Valley Trails (and stay for dinner) and stop by The Pines Tap & Table for evening revelry. (www.titusmountain.com)

McCauley Mountain, Oak Mountain and Titus Mountain participate in the “SKI NY Passport Program”, which offers free skiing for third and fourth graders (from any state or country) with an adult purchase.

The enchanting Lapland Lake Cross-Country Ski Area has just installed snowmaking © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

And for Nordic skiing, there is the incomparable Lapland Lake Cross Country and Vacation Center, which has installed snowmaking on its magnificent cross-country trails through a forest of tall pine trees to a lake. It offers a cozy lodge and cabins for four-season outdoors adventure. (139 Lapland Lake Road Northville, NY 12134-3962, 518- 863.4974, www.laplandlake.com)

Ski Free at Two Bonus Ski Areas

In addition to the large and medium-sized ski resorts in the Adirondacks, there are two additional ski areas that offer free skiing – a rare treat for newbie and experienced skiers, alike.

Newcomb Ski Slope is an ultra-local and community-owned ski hill that offers free skiing. For the last 50 years, the Town of Newcomb has owned and operated this two-run ski slope, where generations have learned to ski. The hill also boasts a trail through the adjacent woods along its 200 vertical feet. At this low-elevation summit, skiers are treated to a view of the snowy High Peaks. (www.newcomb7.bar-z.com)

The Lorca Adirondacks on Indian Lake © Dave E. Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Indian Lake Ski Hill (https://indianlakeadk.com/) also offers free skiing, with the local feel and charm of a community-owned establishment. The recreation area comprises a small hill, two ski trails, a t-bar lift and even ice skating. It is just down the road from Lorca Adirondacks at Indian Lake (Lorca ADK, Sabael, NY, 518-300-3916, [email protected], thelorca.com/adk).

The SKI NY Free for Kids Passport Program for 3,, 4, and 5th graders enables kids to ski free up to 2 times at each of the 25 participating ski areas when an adult purchases a lift ticket. ($45 application fee.) Details and application at iskiny.com.

New York State’s mountain destinations generate $1.3 billion and support 13,000 full and part-time jobs, generating $432 million in labor income, according to the Ski Areas of New York Economic Impact Analysis. The ski industry is a significant part of New York’s $137 billion winter tourism industry, driving economic growth in their communities.

Ski Areas of New York, Inc. is dedicated to the New York snow sports industry. ISKINY online at www.iskiny.com is a hub for snow reports, openings, news and program information for ski mountains throughout New York State, including a map.

Best thing about skiing in New York State: you can decide on the spur and be on the slopes within three hours.

See also:

A BLUEBIRD DAY OF SPRING SKIING AT WINDHAM MOUNTAIN

WHAT A DISCOVERY! SKIING OAK MOUNTAIN IN NEW YORK’S ADIRONDACKS

LAKE PLACID, WHERE YOU CAN BE IMMERSED IN OLYMPIC SPORT, SPIRIT YEAR-ROUND

NEW YORK STATE’S OLYMPIC AUTHORITY SKI MOUNTAINS OPEN FOR SEASON

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© 2024 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Tweet @TravelFeatures. ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures 

New York State’s Olympic Authority Ski Mountains Open for Season

Skiing Gore Mountain, one of three New York State Olympic Authority ski destinations, with Whiteface and Belleayre, that have opened for the season © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Laini Miranda and Dave E. Leiberman, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Governor Kathy Hochul celebrated the official start of the 2024-25 winter season with the daily opening of New York State Olympic Regional Development Authority (Olympic Authority) ski mountains, Gore, Whiteface and Belleayre Mountains.

These are the three largest of New York State’s 52 operating ski areas (the most of any state!). With ski areas located across the state, nearly every major New York metro area is within 90 minutes of top-tier winter recreation and makes skiing and riding an important contributor to employment and quality of life for residents throughout the state.

Our three-generation family rides the new Skyride Gondola to begin our visit at the top of the highest ski jump tower at Mt. Van Hoevenberg, one of four venues included in the Olympics Legacy Site Passport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

“We are proud to welcome New Yorkers and visitors of our great State to our world-class ski resorts this winter season,” Governor Hochul said. “Our investments in these facilities have strengthened the state’s winter tourism industry, creating jobs, driving economic growth and enhancing the quality of life for residents. These resorts offer unparalleled opportunities for recreation, ensuring that New York remains a top destination for winter sports enthusiasts.”    

Gore, Whiteface and Belleayre, as well as many of the ski mountains in New York State, offer programs for all ages and abilities. Adaptive snowsports programs offer individuals with cognitive and physical disabilities the opportunity to learn with certified instructors. There are also numerous opportunities for beginners up to masters. These include the 2024-25 SKI NY Free for Kids Passport Program granting third, fourth and fifth grade students to obtain a complimentary one-day lift ticket at participating New York State ski resorts and the College Club Program at Gore, Whiteface and Belleayre, open to  any full-time college or university student to apply.

Whiteface Mountain

You can’t help but feel like an Olympian when you ski Whiteface Mountain © Laini Miranda/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Whiteface continues to build on its legacy of excellence with several key enhancements. A new heated patio at the Bear Den Learning Center provides expanded space for dining, gathering and watching ski lessons. Snowmaking infrastructure has been upgraded with new pipes and high-efficiency snow guns on popular trails, along with a Snowmax injection system to ensure high-quality snow, even during warm conditions. The Cloudsplitter Gondola received a new haul rope to ensure reliable operations, while the addition of a winch-ready PistonBully 600 Snow Cat will help maintain optimal trail conditions. These improvements reinforce Whiteface’s status as a top destination for skiers and snowboarders of all abilities (whiteface.com).

What makes Whiteface Mountain so absolutely special (and worldclass) is that it is part of a Olympics complex where you not only can see training facilities and historic sites, but you can participate in many of them, including ice skating, bobsled, Nordic skiing and biathalon. And with the multi-million dollar investments in facilities, you may well see World Cup competition or training going on.

Mt. Van Hoevenberg: Building on the momentum of hosting the successful WHOOP UCI Mountain Bike World Series event in September, the Nordic ski area at Mt. Van Hoevenberg is gearing up for another full season of events taking place alongside daily recreational opportunities for cross-country skiers. This season’s event schedule includes local, regional, and national Nordic races, culminating with the SuperTour races March 29-30. Drawing on a 7.5 million gallon reservoir, the ski area at Mt. Van Hoevenberg is the home of the world’s largest snowmaking system dedicated to Nordic skiing.

Olympic Jumping Complex is visited with a new Skyride Gondola, then an elevator to the top of the highest ski jump © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The best way to experience Lake Placid, we discover, is with the Olympics Legacy Sites Passport, which provides access to the four Olympic venues and experiences – so even if you don’t ski, you can take the Cloudsplitter Gondola up to the summit of Little Whiteface to enjoy the spectacular view of the Adirondacks high peaks; go to the top of the highest ski jumping tower at the Olympic Jumping Complex to see what the ski jumpers see (terrifying); tour Mt. Van Hoevenberg where the sliding sports (bobsled, skeleton and luge), Nordic skiing, and Biathalon are held; and tour the Olympic Center, where you visit the museum that houses one of the best collections of Olympics memorabilia in the world, as well as the skating arenas.  (The passport includes one admission to the four venues plus 10% off shopping and dining at all the Legacy Sites. (The Olympic Legacy Passport can be purchased at any of the venues (https://lakeplacidlegacysites.com/legacysitespassport/) Lake Placid Legacy Sites, 518-523-1655, https://lakeplacidlegacysites.com/

During our visit to Mt. Van Hoevenberg, we get to watch practice runs for the two-person bobsled World Cup competition © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

When the Mt. Van Hoevenberg track isn’t being used for practice or competition, you can take the Bobsled Experience, where you are driven down the track with real bobsledders. You get to go through that famous Turn 10 but from Start 4, so it comes soon into the ride before you get going too fast, but you still reach speeds up to 50 mph on the lower half-mile of the track. (Be sure to reserve in advance; in summer, the bobsled uses wheels on concrete; $125/9+; $100/military, https://mtvanhoevenberg.com/todo/bobsled-experience/).

Also at Mt Van Hoevenberg you not only get to see the Olympic bobsled track but you can ride alongside on the Cliffside Coaster, the longest coaster in North America, which opened in 2020. As you ride up to the top, you hear the Olympic history of the track but once at the peak, you are in the driver’s seat and control the speed, navigating sharp corners, cliffside banks and long winding stretches (open daily in season but weather dependent; make reservations in advance; 31 Van Hoevenberg Way, Lake Placid, NY 12946, https://mtvanhoevenberg.com/todo/cliffside-coaster/).

At the Olympic Jumping Complex, you can also ride the new Sky Flyer Zipline adjacent to the ski jumps – and if the ski jumpers are practicing, you can seemingly fly alongside. ($20 off ticket price with the Legacy Passport).

Whiteface Mountain has no lodging of its own, but the Lake Placid/Adirondacks region has scores of truly fabulous accommodations, special in their own right:

High Peaks Resort is offering a Ski Adirondacks Package that includes a welcome beverage upon arrival, a $25 nightly property credit to use at Dancing Bears Restaurant, complimentary snowshoe rentals, complimentary admission to Whiteface Club & Resort Nordic Center for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, 10% off rentals at Cunningham’s Ski Barn, and a guaranteed 2:00 pm checkout.  Après ski, visit the newly reimagined Lake House at High Peaks Resort for drinks, snacks and entertainment. Rates start at $249 per night, excluding taxes and fees.

Mirror Lake Inn in Lake Placid offers guests three unique opportunities this winter to learn from some of the ski world’s most successful athletes: Ski with Olympic Medalist Andrew Weibrecht,  Nordic Ski with Olympic Medalist Andrea Henkel Burke, and the Your Turn Women’s Ski Clinic with Andrew and Lisa Densmore Ballard.

Settling in to my lushna at East Wind Lake Placid Hotel © Dave E. Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

On our last visit, we really enjoyed our stay at Eastwind Lake Placid, which offers a variety of lodging options including cabins and lushnas (6048 Sentinel Road, Lake Placid, 518-837-1882, https://www.eastwindhotels.com/lake-placid-overview). Also, the Golden Arrow Lakeside Resort, right on Mirror Lake, walking distance to attractions, shopping, dining, 2559 Main Street, Lake Placid  www.golden-arrow.com, 844-209-8080.

Gore Mountain

Gore Mountain is New York State’s largest ski and ride resort with 439 skiable acres spanning four mountains, with expansive views of the Adirondack wilderness © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Gore Mountain’s improvements align with its vision of becoming a premier year-round destination. Construction is underway on a new 18,300-square-foot lodge at the North Creek Ski Bowl, featuring a restaurant and two levels of outdoor patios due for completion in 2025. Ahead of the 2024-25 season, the old Hudson chairlift was replaced with a new detachable quad, providing access to trails for all skill levels. Additionally, the Northwoods Gondola cabins are being upgraded to accommodate modern skis and snowboards, ensuring greater comfort for guests. These upgrades position Gore as a hub for all-season recreation, strengthening the local economy.

Gore Mountain is New York State’s largest ski and ride resort with 439 skiable acres spanning four mountains, with expansive views of the Adirondack wilderness © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Gore Mountain is New York State’s largest ski and ride resort with 439 skiable acres spanning four mountains (Gore, Bear Mountain, Burnt Ridge Mountain and Little Gore Mountain), a vertical drop of 2,537 feet from the summit at 3,600 ft, 108 trails (longest is 4.4 miles), accessed by 14 lifts. As a perennial blue-trail/intermediate skier, Gore Mountain is one of my favorite places to ski. Nestled in the Adirondacks, it offers expansive views of a real wilderness. You actually feel as if you were in the Rockies.

The Lorca Adirondacks on Indian Lake © Dave E. Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Gore Mountain has no on-mountain lodging but there are plenty of charming places throughout the Adirondacks, and marvelous dining in North Creek. Among them, Lorca Adirondacks at Indian Lake, about 40 minutes away, a historic motel that has been refurbished to year-round rustic luxury (Lorca ADK, Sabael, NY, 518-300-3916, [email protected], thelorca.com/adk).  For a luxurious stay, choose The Sagamore, a historic, grand resort in Bolton Landing on Lake George, 45 minutes away (www.thesagamore.com).

Gore Mountain, 793 Peaceful Valley Road, North Creek, NY 12853, Snow Phone: 518-251-5026, info 518-251-2411, [email protected],  goremountain.com.

Belleayre Mountain

Celebrating its 75th anniversary, Belleayre continues to enhance its facilities with several key improvements. Early season will have limited lodge and services in anticipation of a grand re-opening of Discovery Lodge to include a new rental center and tuning services. Snowmaking capabilities were upgraded with the installation of 20 new PoleCat fan guns and 30,000 feet of new piping, increasing efficiency even in warmer temperatures. A new learning area at the summit, complete with a carpet lift and easy-graded trail, offers beginners better snow conditions and inspiring views. Guests can also access the summit via the Catskill Thunder Gondola for a seamless learning experience.

Belleayre Mountain is especially popular with families because of its proximity (just about 2 ½ hours drive) and perfect size, with marvelous beginner trails and learn to ski programs, and a natural separation between beginner and advanced skiers.

There is no on-mountain lodging, but quaint inns and lodges nearby in Fleischmann’s, Pine Hill, Big Indian, Phoenicia, Margaretville and Shandaken – among them, the Lorca Catskills offering several cabin/cottage-style accommodations (Gooding Rd & Rt 42, Shandaken, NY 12480 [email protected], thelorca.com, 518-300-3916).

See more at www.belleayre.com/plan-your-visit/lodging/)

(Belleayre, Highmount, NY 12441, 800-942-6904, 845-254-5600, www.belleayre.com).

World Championship and World Cup Events at Olympic Venues

The New York State Olympic Regional Development Authority (Olympic Authority) 2024-2025 events calendar is highlighted by World Cup events in three different sports and the International Bobsled & Skeleton Federation (IBSF) World Championships set for March 2025.

“With recent state investments to renovate the sports infrastructure in Lake Placid, we’re building on our commitment to the enduring legacy of athletic prestige in the North Country,” Governor Hochul said.“By welcoming a host of exciting events over the coming months, we are tapping into the region’s history and invigorating the infrastructure and possibility it carries.” 

Among the highlights: the return of International Ski and Snowboard Federation (FIS) Aerials World Cup on January 18-19, and the FIS Ski Jumping World Cup, which will now include both men’s and women’s competitions, on February 7-9. The IBSF World Championships will take place over two weeks, from March 6 through March 16.

Other notable major events on the upcoming schedule are the FIS World Junior Championships for ski jumping and Nordic combined on February 11-16, the SuperTour Nordic Finals from March 27-30, and two major collegiate hockey tournaments – the Adirondack Invitational (November 29-30) and the ECAC Hockey men’s championships (March 21-22) – at the Olympic Center. 

The FIS Freestyle Aerials World Cup competition returns to the Olympic Jumping Complex, Lake Placid, on January 18-19, 2025 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

FIS Freestyle Aerials World Cup, January 18-19 – Olympic Jumping Complex: Men’s and women’s FIS Freestyle Aerials World Cup competition returns to the Olympic Jumping Complex for the first time since 2019 on January 18-19, 2025. An Olympic sport since the 1994 Lillehammer Games, aerials is a spectator-friendly discipline that showcases athletes performing acrobatic flips, spins and twists in the air for scores based on total air, form, and landing success.

Lake Placid is one of eight FIS Aerials World Cups on the 2024-25 calendar and will feature men’s and women’s individual events and a mixed team event. The season begins November 24, 2024, in Ruka, Finland, and concludes with the World Championships starting March 30, 2025. Lake Placid, a regular stop on the FIS Aerials World Cup tour between 1985 and 2019, is the second Aerials World Cup of the 2024-2025 season.

FIS Ski Jumping World Cup, February 7-9 – Olympic Jumping Complex: After successfully hosting FIS Ski Jumping World Cups for men over the last two years, the Olympic Authority announced the addition of individual women’s ski jumping events and a mixed team competition from February 7-9 on the large hill at the Olympic Jumping Complex.

Practicing for the 2024 Bobsled World Championships at Van Hoevenberg. This year’s event is taking place Mar. 6-16, 2025 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

IBSF Bobsled and Skeleton World Championships, March 6-16 – Mt Van Hoevenberg: The IBSF World Championships is the season’s premier bobsled and skeleton event, providing the best sliding athletes in the world an opportunity to achieve career-defining moments. Mt Van Hoevenberg has hosted the Bobsled World Championships nine times since 1949, including the combined IBSF Bobsled & Skeleton World Championships in 2009 and 2012. The 2025 IBSF World Championships was originally scheduled to take place in 2021 but was postponed due to the coronavirus pandemic.

World Champions will be crowned in Lake Placid across seven different disciplines: 4-Man Bobsleigh, 2-Woman Bobsleigh, 2-Man Bobsleigh, Women’s Monobob, Men’s Skeleton, Women’s Skeleton, and Skeleton Mixed Team. Winners will be determined by cumulative times over four heats, providing athletes a momentum boost as they continue preparation for the 2026 Milano Cortina Winter Olympic Games.

The IBSF World Championships were last held at Mt Van Hoevenberg in 2012 when Steven Holcomb piloted the USA sleds to victories in 2-man, 4-man, and the team competition. Holcomb, who famously ended a 62-year Olympic gold medal 4-man drought for Americans at the 2010 Vancouver Games, went on to win two silver medals in the 2014 Sochi Games.

State Support for Tourism Industry

Governor Hochul has maintained a strong commitment to supporting New York’s tourism industry – one of the State’s key economic drivers. New York State welcomed 291.5 million visitors in 2022, the largest number of visitors in its history, generating more than $78.6 billion in direct spending and $123 billion in total economic impact, which followed historic investments in tourism, economic development, outdoor recreation, transportation and other key sectors.

As part of that commitment, the Governor has supported significant investments of more than $600 million in the Olympic Authority facilities to help reposition the State of New York as a global winter sport destination. These investments have supported major sporting events like the 2023 FISU Winter World University Games held in Lake Placid last year. The major transformations and modernizations were executed with a focus on sustainability and financial responsibility. In tandem, event promoter and organizer WBD Sports recently achieved the ISO20121 certification for its commitment to sustainable event management. This certification approves the structured framework that integrates sustainability into their event management practices.

 While in Lake Placid, be sure to visit the Olympic Museum, where you can see medals going back decades. New York State’s investment in year-round tourism has resulted in record numbers of visits and expenditures © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Since the Olympic Authority venue modernization projects began, overall visits to Olympic Authority facilities have been increasing markedly. Guest visits at all venues combined broke the one million mark for the first time in 2022-2023, hitting 1,014,292 total visits. 

Though the Olympic Authority’s impact as a major driver of tourism and regional economies has traditionally occurred in winter, the investments made in these venues in recent years have greatly expanded that impact to one that’s year-round. From scenic gondola rides at all three mountains to the Whiteface Veterans’ Memorial Highway to the longest mountain coaster in North America at Mt. Van Hoevenberg to a new rail and zipline attraction being installed at Gore Mountain’s North Creek Ski Bowl, and many other non-winter activities and attractions, Olympic Authority venues are offering a wellspring of adventure throughout the year for all ages and all abilities.

More information at the Olympic Regional Development Authority, orda.org.

See also:

LAKE PLACID, WHERE YOU CAN BE IMMERSED IN OLYMPIC SPORT, SPIRIT YEAR-ROUND

TOPNOTCH SKIING AT NEW YORK’S GORE MOUNTAIN IN THE ADIRONDACKS

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