Category Archives: US Destinations

Long Island travel, Travel & Tourism Industry, US Destinations

Discover Long Island Navigates New Challenges in Industry Vital to Local Economy as it Searches for New Leader

May 5, 2025 krubin723

The biggest single event of the year on Long Island takes place at Jones Beach State Park, the island’s most popular attraction, with the annual Memorial Day Weekend FourLeaf Air Show. Jones Beach is in Nassau County but attractions like WildPlay pay to continue to participate in Discover Long Island’s tourism marketing since Nassau County withdrew from the organization. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Long Island is getting ready for its prime tourism season but with a set of unanticipated challenges: the virtual boycott by Canadian visitors, antagonism of Europeans, and Americans’ economic anxiety. This is where a professional tourism marketing organization rises to the fore, but this year, Discover Long Island will soldier on without Kristen Reynolds, CDME, who for the past 10 years has lead and reshaped it. (The organization has just appointed the current Board Chair Mitch Pally as Interim President & CEO as a search is underway for a new president and CEO.)

I’m betting that most Long Islanders do not understand the importance tourism plays in our economy and quality of life, and I am certain most do not understand what Discover Long Island does.

“It’s always a challenge to educate locals why tourism matters,” Reynolds said in a telephone interview just before her final day, April 25. “It’s not just about bragging. It’s about the economy. Long Island in particular has challenges understanding the true value to every resident. We’re lucky – our proximity to New York City, incredible beach locations insure the island will be busy during summer weekends.”

It helps having two major airports, Kennedy International Airport and LaGuardia, feeding into the region. Now MacArthur Airport in Islip is growing as well, giving Long Islanders to get to Florida in a hurry.” Discover Long Island’s task is to ”change the direction” and entice travelers to take advantage of the new routes to come to Long Island.

“We’re working closely, making strides to bring people in, as opposed to out – especially the international visitors who come through JFK. As a destination, we are lucky to have that feeder market – people don’t realize tourism is an economic strategy.” Most Long Islanders view tourists as a burden, overcrowding their beaches in summer. The task for DLI is to attract visitors “not just over summer weekends when the weather is good. There is so much to see and do across Long Island-, sea to sea, shore to shore. We want to welcome people when we want, so it would be more of a year-round strategy, and not such a burden on locals.”

Tourism is a $7.5 billion industry on Long Island – bringing 42 million visitors a year and supporting 76,000 jobs– and this is without a convention center, which Reynolds says is both the initiative she is most proud of bringing to the fore and most disappointed to be leaving unfinished.

Consider this: Chicago, where Reynolds will become the CEO and president of Choose Chicago (Discover Long Island’s counterpart) gets 52 million visitors a year with largest convention center in North America; her mission will be to develop more tourist traffic.

For Long Island residents, that $7.5 billion in visitor spending means $900 million in local and state tax revenues a year – paying for the public services, roads and infrastructure that contribute to Long Islanders’ quality of life. Visitor ticket and other purchases help sustain cherished sites as Old Bethpage Village Restoration, Cradle of Aviation Museum, the Long Island Aquarium, Montauk Point Lighthouse, Sag Harbor Whaling Museum, and Old Westbury Gardens for all of us.

Discover Long Island works with more than 660 tourism and hospitality partners across the region to promote Long Island as a premier year-round destination. These partners span every sector of the industry – from hotels and restaurants to cultural institutions, vineyards, attractions, transportation providers, and more, all collaborating to create a unified and impactful visitor experience.

*Billy Joel came in person to the opening of the first exhibition dedicated to him, at the Long Island Music & Entertainment Hall of Fame (LIMeHoF), in Stony Brook (Suffolk), Long Island* *© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

“Tourism plays a vital role in sustaining cultural institutions like ours by bringing in visitors whose support helps keep our exhibits, marine life programs, and conservation efforts thriving,” said Executive Director of the Long Island Aquarium, Bryan DeLuca. “We are grateful for our partnership with Discover Long Island in helping make those visitor connections possible and consistently shining a spotlight on all our region has to offer.”

Tourism is a huge business for Long Island, but still all too seasonal and dependent upon leisure tourists. The task for a professional tourism marketing enterprise is to spread those visitors and visitor dollars around – something that was particularly attractive to Chicago in hiring her.

Over the past 10 years, she helped increase that tourism dollar spend by $2 billion from 2015’s $5.3 billion.“[Chicago was] very excited about what we’ve done over 10 years.”

But for the past year, those figures do not include Nassau County, since Nassau County Executive Bruce Blakeman pulled Nassau out of Discover Long Island and handed the $1 million per year contract to promote tourism (paid out of hotel tax receipts) to RRDA, a brand marketer with no tourism promotion experience. Instead, Nassau County attractions, hotels and restaurants have had to pay their own way to continue to benefit from Discover Long Island’s promotional activities.

“So many Nassau major attractions have opted to pay directly – they understand the value of Discover Long Island, the importance of being able to promote to a global audience, bringing visitors from outside the region, so they pay out of their own budgets,” Reynolds said.

Visitors from outside the region help sustain such priceless historic places as Old Bethpage Village Restoration, a living history museum presenting Long Island as it was in the 1860s and 1880s © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Attractions that have opted to pay to stay part of Discover Long Island include the UBS Arena, Old Westbury Gardens, WildPlay at Jones Beach, Old Bethpage Village Restoration, the Children’s Museum, and Cradle of Aviation Museum.

Reynolds noted that individual attractions always paid, but now they must pay a higher fee than Suffolk County attractions pay. Indeed, Suffolk County now funds Discover Long Island $6 million (raised from its hotel tax receipts), up from $2 million while Nassau County only paid $1 million.

Cradle of Aviation Museum in Uniondale, which houses an amazing collection showing Long Island’s role in the development of aviation and space exploration, has to pay its own way to be part of Discover Long Island since Nassau County pulled out of the regional tourism promotional organization. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The money for tourism promotion does not come from county taxes but from the county’s hotel-motel tax, so is literally paid by the visitors that Discover Long Island drive into the hotels. Nassau had allocated 16.7% of its 3% hotel tax, while Suffolk allocated 24%. Suffolk has since raised its hotel tax to 5.5% and kept its allocation to Discover Long Island at 24%, capping the amount at $6 million.

How does Discover Long Island decide where and how to allocate that funding?

“We are a very data driven organization. We subscribe to proprietary data research which use mobile geo locators, tracking cell phone data…We have over 200 points of interest of Long Island attractions, business, and hotels across the island that we can pull reports on – that tell us the origin markets. We know where, when, and what travelers visit. It really helps us make strategic decisions that let us utilize dollars wisely for the highest return.”

She added, “I always have data – I don’t just make decisions based on gut or even historical expertise. I like to back that up with data and numbers and real reasoning. Everything we do, we do strategically. And then we track it, measure every campaign on what the ROI was, we track every dollar spent and how much we got back. We track everything. As a not-for-profit, we have to justify every dollar spent. And we’re happy to do that.”

*Sagamore hill, President Theodore Roosevelt’s home, is a National Historic Site, in Oyster Bay, Suffolk, Long Island © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

She noted, “A key thing for Long Islanders to understand – as a report from Comptroller Dinapoli last year validates – the biggest economic impact from tourism is when the visitor comes from outside the region. For every $100 spent at a hotel, the visitor spends $221 in the local community. When we get people to stay in hotels, there is greater economic impact and lesser impact on residents’ quality of life – the fewer day trips, the less car traffic. It is an important strategy to make sure we know what markets [to pursue] for the largest economic impact for residents and visitors.”

And business travelers – especially convention and meetings participants – spend the most, with the least negative impact – a difficult task for Discover LI without an actual convention center and hotels large enough to accommodate big groups.

“This is the only market where people can attend a convention equidistant from the heart of Manhattan and the Hamptons. A convention center would be a game changer. I am confident it would happen.” So far, Suffolk County has been the most receptive, with plans to move forward with “Midway Crossing” at Ronkonkoma, next to MacArthur Airport. An RFP has just been reissued.

“It’s the #1 thing that will change the trajectory of our tourism industry. Right now, we are mostly a leisure destination, and depend on weather, weekends, beaches, but the business traveler would come Monday-to Friday, on expense accounts, year-round. A convention center would host 3000-5000 attendees, in industries that will be looking at what’s happening here in tech, science, education. How we raise the intellectual capital of a destination is by bringing 3000-5000 colleagues. Conventions book years in advance, so it is business on the books. And that’s how we drive airlift at Long Island’s MacArthur Airport. We would get new direct routes. Conventions are a completely different audience that we are not tapping into now because we don’t have the meeting space or the hotels.”

Long Island could then tap into meetings, conventions, associations business from DC, Philadelphia, Boston, and NYC. The economic impact a convention center would generate is estimated upward of $88 million a year in tax revenue.

But, to host conventions and meetings, she said, “We need the hotel rooms. We’re losing that revenue to New York City. At Discover LI, we turn away business every day because they want 200-300 rooms for a corporate retreat getaway from Manhattan and we don’t have the hotel space.”

The Nassau Coliseum could have been a viable option, but Ronkonoma is a better transportation hub with the airport and the Long Island Railroad (they are now talking about Amtrak extending to Ronkonoma).

She supported the Las Vegas Sands Casino development because it is a world-class operation. (Since our conversation, the Sands announced it was pulling its application for a casino and looking to resell its lease.)

But promoting “Long Island” now, means promoting Suffolk, since Nassau County left the regional promotional organization.

“One thing we’ve struggled with and insured, is to keep the brand of ‘Long island’,” Reynolds said. “If we’re going to talk to people from outside the region, they only know us as Long Island, not two counties. Visitors don’t know the difference [not even Long islanders know what sites are in which county. Indeed, most tourism promotional agencies are regional because they can maximize the impact of their limited budgets.

*The American Airpower Museum, Long Island’s only flying military aviation museum (“Where history flies”) is located on the landmarked former site of Republic Aviation* at Republic Airport, Farmingdale, Long Island. The Museum maintains a collection of aviation artifacts and an array of operational aircraft spanning the many years of the aircraft factory’s history *© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

“Most of the Nassau attractions still are part of what we do as Discover Long Island – but it is confusing when people call for information for certain hotels or visitor opportunities and we have to say we no longer represent Nassau County. We tell them to call the Nassau County parks department which oversees the contract. But the fact is now Nassau is in competition with Suffolk.”

[Also, people know to search for “Long Island,” but not specifically Nassau County, and when they do a search for Nassau, they wind up at Nassau, Bahamas, or Nassau, Florida.]

“We did a perception study in 2017 which confirmed, ‘Long Island’ is the brand people know. Economically, we operate as one region – all the other economic development agencies are regional – Vision LI, Association for a Better Long Island, the Long Island Association. There’s a reason: because Long Island is the brand.”

The prestigious Ryder Cup, one of the biggest events taking place, is a huge opportunity for tourism promotion, expected to draw people from all over the globe in September to Bethpage State Park. Interestingly, three of the holes are in Suffolk. [Because Bethpage is a state park, the event is benefiting from support from the state’s I Love New York tourism promotion.]

The week-long Ryder Cup is expected to draw 250,000 attendees, but because of the lack of hotel rooms on Long Island, the vast majority will stay in New York City, and come to the event by Long Island Rail Road and shuttle. Discover LI is already working with the LIRR and contracting shuttle companies.

“We’ve been working with the PGA for years in preparation for the Ryder Cup. We created a Discover LI mobile app specifically for the Ryder Cup. Many will be here for the first time, and even if they not staying on Long Island, they will use the mobile phone to find where to eat and shop from website. The app will be part of the PGA Ryder Cup app, so attendees will find Discover Long Island.”

Discover LI will also be advertising on all the LIRR trains and working with shuttle companies on “inspiration guides,” inspiring people to stay over before or after the event, or just go to a restaurant, museum, or have a Long Island experience in Suffolk, or at the Nassau County attractions that are paying their own way to be part of Discover Long island.

This year also marks the 100^th anniversary of F. Scott Fitzgerald publishing his era-defining novel, “Great Gatsby,” largely based on his time living in Great Neck.

Discover Long Island has been promoting the Gatsby 100^th globally for a year, including partnering with the “Great Gatsby” show on Broadway and in London), with social media partnerships, and tie-ins with the Simon & Schuster publisher and Gatsby-era mansions, “to make sure people know Gatsby is Long Island.”

The Gold Coast Arts Center, based in Great Neck, Long Island, brought Baz Luhrmann and his film, “The Great Gatsby” to Long Island. Events like international film festivals bring visitors from outside the area and put a destination on the map. Discover Long Island is using the 100^th anniversary of the publication of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s era-defining novel in global promotion campaigns. *The Oheka Castle, a Gatsby-era mansion that is now a hotel, is reaping the benefit.* © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Places like Oheka Castle, in Huntington, the Gatsby-era mansion (now a hotel) that was featured in Baz Luhrmann’s 2013 movie, “The Great Gatsby,” are reaping the benefit. Indeed, the state’s I Love New York tourism promotion agency is hosting a dinner with international travel writers at the Oheka. “That’s what they will write about: the Great Gatsby in Suffolk.”

“Discover Long Island is taking the lead to market these wonderful opportunities. People find out where to book, where to stay, through Discover Long Island.”

Successful tourism promotion depends on collaborations, partnerships. Discover Long Island works with the state’s I Love NY, which has provided a $1.7 million economic development grant and $250,000 in Market New York matching grant for the Ryder Cup.

Reynolds, who served as president of NYS Destination Marketing Organizations (NYSDMO) and on the board of the Long Island Association, knows well that tourism promotion also drives economic development.

Reynolds said that Discover Long Island incorporated an AI chatbot onto Discover LI’s website. “It had to be on brand,” so they created LILI, an iconic Long Island ice cream truck. “Now you can go to DiscoverLI.com, see LILI as a chatbot and can ask questions. We spent 6 months training her, with all sorts of crazy questions so the chatbot could learn.” Now they are making sure “she” can speak multiple languages.

When Reynolds arrived 10 years ago, she re-branded the Long Island Convention & Visitors Bureau & Sports Commission as Discover Long Island, “one year to the day” of her arrival.

“Nobody thought it was bad until I came. ‘Discover Long Island’ is a great call to action.”

Tourism spending increased, breaking records year over year. “We navigated through the pandemic and was one of the first destinations to recover. We won national and global awards for marketing strategies [including “Best Social Media” in the nation by the US Travel Association] and got funding for Long Island’s first convention center which will be the game changer. So over the past 10 years, I have done what I could do….I have nothing but wonderful things to say about my experience on Long Island – such an incredible destination.

Her own experience raising her family on Long island is how she came up with the tagline, “Long Island, where you belong”. “Long Island is welcoming, belonging, so diverse, eclectic end to end. It, My children are proud Long Islanders. I hope every Long Island resident realizes what a beautiful, wonderful destination we have and how lucky we are to have this wonderful tourism destination.”

“Kristen Reynolds had taken Discover Long Island to new heights and amplified its impact exponentially, and Mitch Pally’s extensive experience in economic development will serve the organization well as we search for a new leader to build upon the foundation Kristen established,” said Long Island Association President & CEO and DLI Board Member, Matt Cohen.

“Adventureland has proudly partnered with Discover Long Island for many years, and we’ve never been more confident in the organization’s future,” said Steve Gentile, President of Adventureland. “The DLI team’s commitment to collaboration, innovation, and community makes us proud to stand alongside them during this next phase.”

Marking National Travel & Tourism Week

“The numbers speak for themselves; tourism isn’t just about vacations, it’s about the community, the connections, and impact that ultimately enhances quality of life for our local businesses and residents,” said Discover Long Island Interim President & CEO, Mitch Pally. “What we do fuels the spirit of Suffolk County and the greater Long Island region, and National Travel and Tourism Week is the perfect opportunity to recognize the value of the travel industry as a whole, both locally and nationwide.”

Suffolk County, home to some of Long Island’s most iconic destinations, continues to see the benefits of Discover Long Island’s robust tourism initiatives.

“Tourism is an important part of Suffolk County’s economy and community identity,” said Suffolk County Executive, Ed Romaine. “This week and beyond, we recognize the significant contributions of the individuals and businesses who support our local tourism industry and help showcase the many attractions that make Suffolk County a sought-after place to visit year-round.”

Long Island’s tourism success is part of a larger national picture. Across the U.S., according to the U.S. Travel Association, travel supports 15 million American jobs, fuels $2.9 trillion in total economic output, and saves each American household an estimated $1,490 annually in taxes through travel-generated revenue.

“Travel is one of our nation’s most powerful economic engines – supporting millions of jobs, fueling businesses and propelling industries forward,”said U.S. Travel Association President and CEO, Geoff Freeman. “National Travel and Tourism Week reinforces the pivotal role travel plays in building a stronger, more prosperous America.”

To stay up to date on Discover Long Island’s efforts, visit discoverlongisland.com.

USAF Thunderbirds Headline Memorial Day Weekend FourLeaf Air Show at Jones Beach

US Air Force Thunderbirds will headline the FourLeaf Air Show at Jones Beach State Park, Long Island, for Memorial Day weekend, May 24-25, 2005, 10 am-3 pm. Download the FourLeaf Air Show Mobile App for performer and sponsor information, a site map, helpful FAQs to prepare. Text ‘Airshow’ to 516-842-4400 to download or get from the App Store and Google Play © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

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Adventure Travel, Camping/Hiking/Outdoors, National Parks, Nature, Wildlife, Outdoors Adventures, See America, Star Gazing, US Destinations

Camping Adds Special Dimension to National Parks Experience

April 20, 2025 krubin723

*Sunrise in Devil’s Garden, Arches National Park, an experience made possible by camping in the park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

National Parks Week, this year April 19-27, is a great time to start planning for a camping holiday in national parks, especially since because of understandable popularity, you need to make reservations early. Camping within or near the parks enhances the experience immeasurably, adding an unparalleled dimension.

Pro Tip: You can purchase a 2025 America the Beautiful–the National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Annual Pass providing access to over 2,000 federal recreation sites, including national parks, wildlife refuges and forests, for $80 from the USGS store (https://store.usgs.gov/) and from LL Bean (https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1000010294). At sites that charge per vehicle, a pass covers the pass holder and accompanying passengers in a single, private, non-commercial vehicle. At sites that charge per person, a pass covers the pass holder and three accompanying adults (16 or over; children 15 and under are free).

Seniors can purchase a lifetime version, the America The Beautiful – The National Parks and Federal Lands Senior Lifetime Pass, for a one-time charge of $80 (plus $10 fee), from https://store.usgs.gov/lifetime-senior-pass. At many sites the Senior Pass provides a discount on Expanded Amenity Fees (such as camping, swimming, boat launching, and guided tours).

Campspot’s 15 Top Trending Parks for Campers

To celebrate National Park Week (April 19–27, 2025)—with free park entry on April 19—Campspot, a leading booking platform for private campgrounds, dug into traveler data to reveal the Top 15 Most-Searched National Parks for 2025, based on check-in dates throughout the year.

With economic uncertainty still shaping how Americans travel in 2025, more adventurers are seeking out experiences that feel meaningful—but still affordable. Camping near national parks continues to rise in popularity as travelers seek fresh air, epic views, and budget-friendly alternatives to traditional vacations.

Whether you’re planning a last-minute getaway or your big summer adventure, here’s where travelers are headed—along with where to camp nearby:

Trending National Parks to Visit in 2025

*Hiking the John Muir Trail in Yosemite National Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

1. Yosemite National Park: With its granite giants, towering waterfalls, and legendary trails, Yosemite National Park in California is the definition of iconic. Whether you’re chasing views from Glacier Point or strolling through Yosemite Valley, this park is a stunner in every season. Book early—it’s a favorite for a reason. Where to camp:

Indian Flat RV Park

Golden Pines RV Resort

See More Campgrounds Near Yosemite National Park

*The dazzling – even surreal – natural features of Yellowstone National Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

2. Yellowstone National Park: The first national park in the world is still one of the most awe-inspiring. Spanning across Wyoming with portions in Montana and Idaho, Yellowstone and its bubbling geysers, colorful hot springs, and vast wildlife sightings (bison! bears! elk!) make every visit feel like a real-life safari. Add in stunning canyons and wide-open meadows, and you’ve got a wild, wonderful trip waiting. Where to camp:

Yellowstone Hot Springs

Henry’s Fork RV Park

Sugar City RV Park

See More Campgrounds Near Yellowstone National Park

3. Glacier National Park: Alpine lakes, snow-capped peaks, and over 700 miles of trails? Glacier National Park in Montana is high on drama—in the best way. Hop on the Going-to-the-Sun Road for an unforgettable drive, or hike to hidden lakes for pure solitude. Summer is prime time, but shoulder seasons offer quieter beauty with fewer crowds. Where to camp:

Columbia Falls RV Park

Glacier Peaks RV Park

Whitefish RV Park

See More Campgrounds Near Glacier National Park

*Grand Teton National Park, with its craggy peaks and serene lakes © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

4. Grand Teton National Park: Craggy peaks, serene lakes, and a skyline so sharp it cuts through the clouds—Grand Teton National Park is Wyoming’s quieter showstopper. Kayak on Jenny Lake, catch a sunrise over the Snake River, or just enjoy the view with a picnic. Bonus: you’re close enough to Yellowstone to hit both in one trip. Where to camp:

Sugar City RV Park

Idaho Sky RV Resort

Henry’s Fork RV Park

See More Campgrounds Near Grand Teton National Park

5. Sequoia National Park: Come for the massive trees, stay for the peaceful forest vibes. Sequoia National Park in California is home to General Sherman (the largest tree on Earth) and hundreds of other giants that make you feel like you’ve stepped into a fairy tale. It’s also great for stargazing, scenic drives, and uncrowded trails. Where to camp:

Kings River RV Resort

Creekside RV Park

Kern River Sequoia RV Resort

See More Campgrounds Near Sequoia National Park

6. Acadia National Park in Maine brings serious charm where the mountains meet the sea. Hike Cadillac Mountain for one of the first sunrises in the U.S., bike the historic carriage roads, or explore tidepools along the rugged shoreline. Fall colors here are unreal. Where to camp:

Boothbay Craft Brewery

Yogi Bear’s Jellystone Park™ Camp-Resort: Androscoggin Lake

See More Campgrounds Near Acadia National Park

*Bike the scenic carriage trails in Acadia National Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

7. Great Smoky Mountains National Park: This trending national park’s misty peaks and rolling hills are home to wildflowers, waterfalls, and a crazy amount of biodiversity. With no entrance fee, it’s America’s most-visited park. Where to camp:

Cove Creek RV Resorts

Mountaineer Campground

Pigeon Forge RV Resort

Gateway RV Campground

Creekside RV Park

Camp Riverslanding

See More Campgrounds Near Great Smoky Mountains National Park

8. Rocky Mountain National Park: Reach new heights—literally. With elevations over 12,000 feet, this trending national park in Colorado is a hiker’s heaven. Think alpine tundra, glacier-fed lakes, and elk sightings around every corner. Trail Ridge Road offers stunning panoramic views, especially at sunset. Where to camp:

Yogi Bear’s Jellystone Park™ Camp-Resort: Estes Park

Poudre River Resort

Sun Outdoors Rocky Mountains

Base Camp at Golden Canyon

See More Campgrounds Near Rocky Mountain National Park

*Scooping a scenic view in Rocky Mountain National Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

9. Hot Springs National Park: Blending history with hot water, this top national park in Arkansas is as quirky as it is relaxing. Stroll the historic Bathhouse Row or hike forested trails before soaking in the therapeutic springs. It’s like stepping into a vintage spa town with a dash of outdoor adventure. Where to camp:

Hot Rod Hill RV Park

Hot Springs Off-Road Park

See More Campgrounds Near Hot Springs National Park

10. Arches National Park: Otherworldly red rock formations and over 2,000 natural arches make this a can’t-miss stop in Utah’s canyon country. Sunrise and sunset bring the landscape to life with shifting colors, and even short hikes lead to jaw-dropping payoffs. Bring water—it’s hot, dry, and totally worth it. You also need to purchase timed-entry reservations during peak season. Where to camp:

Sun Outdoors Arches Gateway

Sun Outdoors North Moab

Sun Outdoors Canyonlands Gateway

Sun Outdoors Moab Downtown

Up the Creek Campground

See More Campgrounds Near Arches National Park

*The famous Double Arch in Arches National Park – see how far up you can climb © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

11. Joshua Tree National Park: Where two deserts collide, weird and wonderful things grow. Sitting between the Mojave Desert and Colorado Desert, Joshua Tree National Park in California sports signature trees, giant boulders, and cosmic night skies, making it a magnet for artists, stargazers, and climbers alike. Sunrise hikes and campfire nights here are something special. Where to camp:

Joshua Tree RV Campground

Desert Drifter RV Resort

The Sands RV & Golf Resort (55+)

Coachella Lakes RV Resort

Indian Wells

See More Campgrounds Near Joshua Tree National Park

12. Zion National Park: Towering red cliffs, dramatic canyons, and trails like Angel’s Landing and The Narrows—Zion brings the wow at this trending national park in Utah. Ride the park shuttle for easy access, then lace up for adventures that range from family-friendly strolls to heart-pounding scrambles. Where to camp:

Kanab RV Corral

Kaibab Paiute RV Park and Campground

Hitch-N-Post RV Park

Cross Hollow RV Resort

Dark Sky RV Campground

See More Campgrounds Near Zion National Park

13. Indiana Dunes National Park: A lakefront surprise in the Midwest, Indiana Dunes offers sandy beaches, sweeping dunes, and lush inland trails. Great for swimming, birdwatching, or just a laid-back beach day near Chicago. Where to camp:

Oak Lake RV Resort

Tippecanoe River Run

See More Campgrounds Near Indiana Dunes National Park

14. Olympic National Park: Rainforests, mountain peaks, and the wild coastline of Washington—Olympic National Park’s diversity is unreal. You can hike a glacier one day and walk the beach the next. Don’t miss Hoh Rain Forest or Hurricane Ridge, and keep an eye out for elk, eagles, and tidepool treasures.

Where to camp:

Pedder Bay RV Resort & Marina

Sooke River Campground

The Campground at Jefferson County Fairgrounds

Cove RV Park

See More Campgrounds Near Olympic National Park

15. Everglades National Park: Welcome to the swamp (the good kind). The Everglades National Park in Florida is home to gators, manatees, and miles of slow-moving rivers and marshland. Explore by kayak or airboat and experience one of the most unique ecosystems in the U.S. Don’t forget the bug spray! Where to camp:

Key Largo Kampground

Sun Outdoors Key Largo

Sun Outdoors Islamorada

See More Campgrounds Near Everglades National Park

KOA’s List of ’14 Must See National Parks’

Kampgrounds of America has published its own list of “14 Must-See National Parks” (no surprise with the overlap with Campsite’s trending parks) with the KOA campgrounds that are nearby, compiled by Matt Kirouac (https://koa.com/blog/must-see-national-parks/). Kirouac’s list includes:

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Townsend / Great Smokies KOA Holiday
Pigeon Forge / Gatlinburg KOA Holiday
Cherokee / Great Smokies KOA Holiday
Gatlinburg East / Smoky Mountain KOA Holiday

Yellowstone National Park

Livingston / Paradise Valley KOA Holiday
Red Lodge KOA Journey
Cody KOA Holiday
Dubois / White River KOA Holiday
Yellowstone Park / Mountainside KOA Journey
Yellowstone Park / West Gate KOA

Badlands National Park (Badlands / White River KOA Holiday)

Badlands, South Dakota © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Saguaro National Park (Tucson / Lazydays KOA Resort)

Hot Springs National Park (Hot Springs National Park KOA Holiday)

Haleakalā National Park

Carlsbad Caverns National Park (Carlsbad KOA Holiday)

Crater Lake National Park (Lemolo Lark / Crater Lake North KOA Holiday)

Death Valley National Park (Lake Isabella / Kern River KOA)

*Hiking the famous Mesquite sand dunes at sunset in Death Valley National Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Glacier National Park

West Glacier KOA Resort
Whitefish / Kalispell North KOA Holiday
St. Mary / East Glacier KOA Holiday

Zion National Park (St. George / Hurricane KOA Journey)

Rocky Mountain National Park

Estes Park / Rocky Mountain Park KOA Holiday
Grand Lake / Rocky Mountain National Park KOA Journey

Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon / Williams KOA Journey
Williams / Exit 167 / Circle Pines KOA Holiday

Joshua Tree National Park (Palm Springs / Joshua Tree KOA)

“Camping is a high-value travel experience, offering opportunities to disconnect and spend time with friends and family in nature,” says Kampground of America. “The majority of the campgrounds in our system have cabins onsite that are an easy entry point for travelers seeking to benefit from time spent outdoors while enjoying creature comforts. We know that most campers are travelling less than 200 miles to go camping, it is a high-value way to explore the national parks and local communities nearby and certainly lower expense than other forms of travel.

“Campers looking for an RV experience without the commitment of purchasing one can test it out (or even just embark on an epic adventure) through a peer-to-peer rental company like RVshare, RVezy or Outdoorsy among others. I believe that RVshare is offering a service in which campers can opt to have their RV set up on a campground for them to use, without worrying about setting it up themselves.”

Use the Find a KOA locator (https://koa.com/find-a-koa/). The koa.com website also has really helpful articles.

Camping Season Underway in New York State

*A short walk from our campsite in New York Watkins Glen State Park is this amazing scene © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

New York State offers some of the most exciting camping experiences in the country – from the star-studded nights of the Adirondacks and the Catskills to the tranquil sunrise vistas along the shores of the St. Lawrence River. Its state parks like Watkins Glen (where, besides the spectacular scenery of the gorge there is also the tradition of auto racing), and Letchworth State Park (considered the Grand Canyon of the East), you have a variety from parking your RV, or renting a cozy cabin or cottage, to pitching a tent beneath the celestial canopy.

*Camping at New York’s Letchworth State Park affords unlimited opportunities to hike along the ridge of “the Grand Canyon of the East” © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Discover private campgrounds, many of which can be conveniently booked through CampNewYork.com or explore the public campgrounds managed by the New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation and the Department of Environmental Conservation. (Book NYS Park campsites at https://newyorkstateparks.reserveamerica.com/)

NEW YORK’S WATKINS GLEN STATE PARK IS SPELLBINDING

Yosemite National Park: Best Valley Hikes for First Timers

Yosemite National Park: Surprising Diversity, Dramatic Scenes Hiking Chilnualna Falls Trail, Wawona

ROAD TRIP: DISCOVERING DEATH VALLEY’S TREASURES, RICHER THAN GOLD

ROAD TRIP: HITTING THE HIGHLIGHTS OF DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

ROAD TRIP: SUNRISE, SUNSET IN DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, NATURE’S GEOLOGIC ART GALLERY

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK IN TWO DAYS: DAY 1: ‘RANDOM BOILING EARTH’

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK IN TWO DAYS: MOTHER NATURE GETS SURREAL

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK: MOTHER NATURE IN HER PUREST FORM

UTAH ADVENTURE DAY 4-5: DRIVING BURR TRAIL, EXPLORING GLEN CANYON, WILD CAMPING IN ARCH CANYON

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us atfacebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Biking Tours, Camping/Glamping/RVs, Camping/Hiking/Outdoors, Cultural travel, Festivals and Events, Historic Places, New York State travel, Outdoors Adventures, Places of History, US Destinations

Annual Cycle the Erie Canalway Bike Tour is All the More Special During 200th Anniversary Celebration

April 6, 2025 krubin723

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

The annual eight-day Parks & Trails Cycle the Erie Canalway bike tour from Buffalo to Albany is 400 miles and 400 years of history but this year’s ride July 12-20, 2025 is particularly special because it marks the 200^th anniversary of the opening of the Erie Canal in 1825. An engineering marvel of its time that transformed the United States, all along the way, riders will enjoy special events and celebrations.

The Erie Canal propelled the Industrial Revolution, opened the frontier, united the country, birthed canal towns and cities, and made New York City a financial capital of the world.

You see all of this unfolding from the first mile out of Buffalo and over the course of eight days of riding (averaging 50 miles a day), filled with activities and camaraderie.

Cycle the Erie Canalway participants experience one of the best trails in America as they cycle through historic canal villages and discover the small-town charm of upstate New York that makes people like us Downstaters marvel, “This is New York!” Along the way, canal historians and local experts will introduce riders to the people, places and things that make the Erie Canal so important to the history of New York and the nation during its Bicentennial Year. Cyclists pedal between 40 and 60 miles per day on the mostly flat (but it seems the campsites tend to be at the highest point of a town) and mostly traffic-free Erie Canalway Trail, and visit some of Upstate New York’s most iconic attractions, such as the Women’s Rights National Historic Park in Seneca Falls and Fort Stanwix in Rome, a full-scale fort recreation from the French and Indian War.

The Parks & Trails NY tour is actually one of my favorite bike rides in the world – for the scenery, the sights along the way, the activities like lectures and museum visits that are arranged, the camaraderie of camping and riding together with some 650 cyclists from all over the country and all over the world, and the Erie Canalway itself –a 356 mile-long car-free recreational path that is the west-east part of New York State’s new 750-mile Empire Trail Network (the north-south trail network connects Battery Park at the tip of Manhattan to the Canadian border). Between the relatively flat nature and superb support provided, Cycle the Erie Canal offers unparalleled cycling for all ages and abilities (I’ve seen families with little ones in trailers or car seats and riders as young as 10 and as old as 92 bike on their own.)

Though there are bike tour operators (such as Wilderness Voyageurs and Pocono Biking) that offer inn-to-inn bike tours on portions of the Erie Canalway, this annual supported biking/camping trip, in its 27^th year, is organized by Parks & Trails New York, which for decades has successfully advocated to open these recreational trails and improve parks.

Each day’s ride is highlighted by fascinating attractions all along the Erie Canalway

Cycle the Erie Canalway cyclists are fascinated to see the famous “Flight of Five” series of five locks that brought boats 50 feet, an engineering marvel of its time that made the building of the canal possible. Cyclists on this year’s Parks & Trail NY ride will celebrate the 200^th anniversary of the opening of Erie Canal © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

In Lockport, see the original engineering marvel that made the entire Erie Canal possible: the famous “Flight of Five”, a staircase of five locks built to elevate boats through the then-impossible 50-foot Niagara Escarpment; take a cruise through the modern lock (the GE motors that run it are over 100 years old), explore underground sluiceways, caves and the “Upsidedown Bridge.”

Leaving the historic village of Medina, look for the tunnel under the Erie Canal, where you see that the Erie Canal is really like a bathtub.

Ride through New York’s Amish Country (who knew!) on the way to Seneca Falls, birthplace of the modern Women’s Rights movement and visit the Women’s Rights National Historic Park, National Women’s Hall of Fame (housed in a former knitting mill) and the Elizabeth Cady Stanton home (the museums stay open for us).

*The knitting mill in Seneca Falls is fittingly now the home of the National Women’s Hall of Fame © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

You also get a taste of the women’s movement at the Peppermint Museum in Lyons (don’t miss it!) where you learn about the inventor, Hotchkiss’s daughter, a suffragist, who took over the company.

Get a taste of the women’s movement at the Peppermint Museum in Lyons where you learn about the inventor, Hotchkiss’s daughter, a suffragist, who took over the company. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

On the way to Syracuse, stop at the Visitors Center at the Old Erie Canal Heritage Park at Port Byron, then pedal through the authentic enlarged Erie Canal Lock 52 to the c. 1895 Erie House Saloon, Blacksmith Shop, and Mule Barn; visit the Jordan Historical Society Museum, and ride on the towpath on an original aqueduct over Skaneateles Creek which takes you to Camillus’ Erie Canal Park where you stop at Sims Store, a re-creation of a 19th century general store (where riders are cheered for passing the half-way mark at 200 miles)

*Parks & Trails NY’s Cycle Erie Canalway tour goes through New York’s Amish country © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

In Syracuse, visit the zoo, and the next morning, the Erie Canal Museum, the best of the Canal Museums along the way (they open especially for the cyclists)

On the way to Rome, visit the Chittenango Canal Museum and dry docks and the Canastota Canal Town Museum and see the spot where the first shovel of dirt was turned for “Clinton’s Ditch” (deliberately in the middle of the canal). Chittenango was also the birthplace in 1856 of L. Frank Baum, famous throughout the world as the creator of The Wizard of Oz and his mother-in-law Matilda Joslyn Gage, was a prominent women’s rights advocate, abolitionist, and writer, known for her radical views, derived largely from the Oneida women and her work alongside Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton in the women’s suffrage movement).

*In Rome, camp at the restored Fort Stanwix National Monument, built during the French and Indian War, populated with costumed interpreters © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

In Rome, camp at the restored Fort Stanwix National Monument, built during the French and Indian War, populated with costumed interpreters, and learn how seemingly minor battles actually shaped the outcome of the American Revolution.

In Little Falls, explore the glacial potholes of Moss Island, a National Natural Landmark, and tour Revolutionary War General Herkimer’s home.

At Schoharie Crossing State Historic Site, once a trading post and a fort (they found the footprint after a hurricane), look where you can see all three Erie Canals (yes, 3 Erie Canals have been built).

*Coming from Schenectady to the finish line in Albany, stop at Cohoes Falls, one of the most powerful falls east of the Rockies© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Coming from Schenectady to the finish line in Albany, stop at Cohoes Falls, one of the most powerful falls east of the Rockies and a major challenge for Erie Canal engineers (a wonderful bookend with Niagara Falls in the west); visit Peebles Island State Park, where, during the Revolutionary War, American forces prepared defenses to make a final stand against the British, and finally, bike along the Hudson River into downtown Albany, New York State’s 300-year-old capital.

Registration for Cycle the Erie Canal includes camping accommodations each evening with restrooms and showers (even swimming pools and charging stations and the possibility of indoor camping); eight hearty breakfasts and six delicious dinners; two refreshment stops daily stocked with fruit, snacks and beverages; SAG support and baggage transport; daily cue sheets and marked routes; entertainment and historic presentations every evening; and guided tours of the Canal, historic sites, museums, other attractions, and expanded celebrations for the Canal’s 200^th Anniversary.

The price for the eight-day ride, July 12-20, Buffalo to Albany is $1,300/adult, $700 (youth age 6-17), $300/child (5 and under). There is also a four-day version with an optional shuttle.

(Note: they arrange for parking in Albany ($120, at the Quackenbush Garage July 12-20, 2025), and a shuttle bus to Buffalo on July 12 ($120/rider), or oppositely, parking in Buffalo ($25) and a shuttle back from Albany to Buffalo at the end of the tour.)

Parks & Trails New York, which is celebrating its own 40^th anniversary this year, is a leading statewide advocate working to create a network of parks, trails, and greenways so that New Yorkers can enjoy the outdoors close to home. Cycle the Erie Canal supports Parks & Trails New York’s work on the Erie Canalway Trail and on trails in communities throughout New York State.

The New York State Canal Corporation, the agency charged with operating, maintaining and promoting New York’s Canal System and the Canalway Trail, is the Premier State Sponsor of Cycle the Erie Canal. The Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor is the event’s Heritage Sponsor.

For more information on Cycle the Erie Canal, visit www.ptny.org/canaltour, email eriecanaltour@ptny.org or call 518-434-1583.

Erie Canal Bicentennial Events

The Cycle the Erie Canal bike tour, July 12-20, is one of the biggest events honoring the canal’s bicentennial, but there are many events happening in various towns and cities along the Canal:

On Fri., May 16, 2025, the Bicentennial Navigation season will kick off in Waterford, where the Canal meets the Hudson River, with a parade of vessels.

*Fairport, one of the towns “birthed” by the Erie Canal, celebrates its 48^th Canal Days June 6-8 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Fairport, NY, the jewel of the Erie Canal, celebrates its 48th Canal Days from June 6-8, 2025. One of New York’s premier arts festivals features artisans, music, local cuisine and fun for all ages, and brings more than 100,000 visitors to this Rochester suburb.

Canal enthusiasts, historians, engineers, environmentalists, artists and travelers from around the world can attend The 2025 World Canals Conference from Sept. 21-25, 2025 in Buffalo, NY, complete with canal-themed excursions for participants, in addition to hours of learning, discussion and networking.

The Water Music NY: More Voices Festival returns in Summer 2025, with The Albany Symphony Orchestra performing free concerts across the entire New York State Canal System. The project is a collaboration of composers, local arts partners, cultural & educational institutions and community members fusing arts, cultural heritage, and contemporary issues to re-envision the past, present, and future of people and communities bordering the historic waterway.

For the grand finale, a replica of Seneca Chief, the boat Governor Dewitt Clinton used for his inaugural Erie Canal journey to open the Canal in 1825, will set sail on September 24 and recreate the maiden voyage from Buffalo Canalside to the New York Harbor, making multiple stops along the way with celebratory events at each community stop including flotillas and a grand commemoration in New York City on October 25.

Can’t make it to the Parks & Trails NY Cycle the Erie Ride? The bike tour company, Wilderness Voyageurs offers a four-day inn to inn ride, New York Erie Canal West, that begins in Lockport and stays in places like the historic Genessee Country Inn (2025 tour dates: 6/30, 7/27, 8/10, 800-272-4141, wilderness-voyageurs.com).

Another company that offers inn-to-inn supported tour on the Erie Canalway is Pocono Biking (https://poconobiking.com/specialty-trips/6-day-erie-canal-bike-tour/). Also: Great American Bike Tours (949-424-5369, cycletheusa.com); Classic Adventures (800-777-8090, classicadventures.com); Noble Invention Bike Touring (844-424-5342, nobleinventionbiketouring.com); and 718 Outdoors (347-457-5760, 718c.com)

***Erie Canal Adventures*** *provides this one-of-a-kind experience with live-aboard, fully-equipped canal boats © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Another extraordinary way to experience the Erie Canal is by a live-aboard canal boat! This European-style self-skippered houseboat that was specifically designed for the Erie Canal let’s you make your own way on the Erie Canal, going through locks and under the lift bridges, and experience the 200^th anniversary of the canal just as it was then, by boat and bike. Erie Canal Adventures provides this one-of-a-kind experience with live-aboard, fully-equipped canal boats. Accommodating 2 to 6 people, each of these charming, easy-to-pilot boats features cozy bedrooms, kitchens, and bathrooms – cooking utensils, linens, fuel, mobile app and bikes. You get 3-4 hours of training, including safety training, systems, and navigational training (and how to go through the locks which are SO fun. You learn how to work the radio to call up to the lockmaster and the bridge operators to lift the bridges. And you tie up where you like. Erie Canal Adventures, 1125 Marina Parkway, Macedon NY 14502, (315) 986-3011, Option 1, allie@eriecanaladventures.com, ericcanaladventures.com.

More ways to experience the Erie Canal can be found at the Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor, https://eriecanalway.org/explore/cycling/cycling-resources

“This year, New York State is rich with opportunities to experience major milestone anniversaries, stay in new hotels and explore new museums and exhibits,” I LOVE NY Executive Director of Tourism Ross D. Levisaid. “The Bicentennial of the Erie Canal‘s completion can be celebrated throughout upstate communities, while downstate, New York City commemorates its 400th anniversary. The 100th anniversary of the Great Gatsby can be explored at Gold Coast mansions on Long Island, where the famous novel was set. For more information, visit iloveny.com

Cycle the Erie, Day 1: In Lockport, See Erie Canal Engineering Marvel, ‘Flight of Five’, Cruise Thru Double Locks, and Go Underground to Fathom Rise of Industrial Revolution

Cycle the Erie, Day 2-3: A Sequence of Charming Canaltowns, Pastoral Landscapes, Punctuated by City Birthed by ‘Mother of Cities’

Cycle the Erie, Day 4: Seneca Falls to Syracuse, Crossing Halfway Mark of 400-Mile Biketour

Cycle the Erie, Day 5: Deep Dive into The Erie Canal: ‘Mother of Cities’, Empire Builder, Wonder of the World

Cycle the Erie: At Fort Stanwix, Rome, Time Travel Back to America’s Colonial, Native American Past

Cycle the Erie, Days 6-7: Erie Canal Spurs Rise of America as Global Industrial Power

Cycle the Erie, Days 7-8: Schoharie Crossing, Mabee Farm, Cohoes Falls to Finish Line in Albany of 400-Mile BikeTour

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Biking Tours, Historic Places, Outdoors Adventures, See America, US Destinations

Six Days on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails: Biking the Coeur d’Alenes

February 2, 2025 krubin723

*Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho on the last day of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

On Day 4 of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip, after breakfast at our base at the Silver Mountain Resort, we are shuttled to Shoshone Park in the mining town of Mullan for an easy downstream ride through the “Silver Valley,” home to several historic mining communities.

We soon pick up the official start of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, enjoying views of the rocky, forested mountains, as we make our way to the utterly charming “wild west” town of Wallace.

*Biking on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes to Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

We have been primed for Wallace’s character (and humor) when we had a talk by a local historian at the Roosevelt Inn in Coeur d’Alene so are prepared for the “history (and some hilarity!) that await us as citizens of Wallace have tenaciously preserved their town amidst an ever changing landscape of fortunes lost and gained.”

Now, we stroll around the town looking for some of the sights she pointed out, like the town’s last brothel, a mining museum, a silver shop, before we join the Sierra Silver Mine Tour that Discovery has arranged for us. It begins with a delightful narrated tour of Wallace in an open-air trolley that takes us up to the mine.

Who knew that Wallace was the “Silver Capital of the World” – some $138 billion worth taken out of these mines –$20 billion of metals just last year (did I hear that right?) – 1 million ounces of silver. In the 1960s, incredulously, Wallace was the “richest little city” in America with the highest number of millionaires per capita, as well as a thriving brothel industry. (The last running bordello was shut down in 1989 when the FBI raided tax dodgers – there is still resentment in the town – but you can visit the Bordello Museum.)

When mining began in 1886, Wallace’s population was 500; at its peak, in 1940, when some 200 mines were operating (quartz, gold, silver, copper, zinc), the population peaked at 4000, but, with the collapse of silver prices in March 1980, most of the mines closed, the miners left and the population fell to the present number of 800. Today, there are still four active silver mines, including the Lucky Friday and the Galina mines, and one gold mine.

In 1890, a chimney fire destroyed most of the town – the buildings we see today date from 1890-1920. Indeed, Wallace has the rare honor of the entire town being listed on the National Register of Historical Places.

Other tidbits: only one sitting president has visited Wallace: Theodore Roosevelt came in 1903 on a campaign whistle stop; the town spent $5000 just on flags to welcome him. There was a shootout on Valentine’s Day, 1951 – one of the tommy guns is on display in the museum. And Wallace’s most famous native is Lana Turner went one day to a grocery store where she was discovered.

You would be forgiven if you thought Wallace was a theme park creation (the 1997 movie “Dante’s Peak” was filmed here), but the history and the heritage are real, as is the miner, “Fast Freddie,” who is our guide into the silver mine.

*“Fast Freddie” guides us on the Sierra Silver Mine Tour, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

“Fast Freddie” is a colorful character (he looks as if he came from Hollywood casting), with a marvelous sense of humor, amusing and engaging, but most important, he is authentic, speaking of his own experience working 21 years underground in these mines. “You need a good sense of humor in a mine,” Freddie tells us. “We used to play tricks.”

This mine was only briefly used, he says, because the silver was very low grade and not worth the expense. It was turned into a mining school, where students learned the techniques of mining and could be hired right into a job.

After the collapse of the silver market and the closure of mines, Wallace looked to tourism to compensate. This mine was turned into an attraction, getting as many as 18,000 visitors a year.

*A skeleton wearing a hard hat greets us as we enter the Sierra Silver Mine in Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

As we enter the mine and pass a skeleton sitting on a chair, Freddie tells us that one of the worst mining disasters in history took place on May 2, 1972 when 91 miners lost lives and just 2 survived. ‘It took 2 weeks to recover all of them. They didn’t have a system to know who was down there.’ After that, the Mine Safety Administration mandated a tag system – larger mines have more sophisticated program.

*The proverbial canary in a mine. “Fast Freddie” guides us on the Sierra Silver Mine Tour, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

We actually see a canary cage – used to let the miners know when oxygen is low (the proverbial “canary in a coal mine.”)

In this mine, future miners were taught to run the jack, the drill, and to blast. The miners work alone at different levels, so each one has to do everything – digging, setting the dynamite charge, moving out the ore. “You have to get everything done so you can blast before the next shift arrives.”

How to protect against the noise? “A cigarette butt was ear protection” (not sure he was joking.)

The veins of silver go down for miles – in 1964, they were mining at 250 feet. The Lucky Friday Mine, the largest in the area, is operating at 9600 feet below ground. The deeper they go, the hotter it gets – at 9,000 ft, as much as 170 degrees – so they designed a refrigerated ventilation system to cool to 100 degrees.

After being returned by the trolley, we have time to wander around Wallace before biking back on the trail on our own to the Silver Mine Resort.

*The last brothel in Wallace, Idaho is now the Oasis Bordello Museum © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Wallace is really interesting – like a time warp and not really just “tourist quaint”, quirky and fun. Just strolling around, you find the Wallace District Mining Museum, the Idaho Silver Shop, Northern Railroad Depot Museum, and everyone’s favorite, the Oasis Bordello Museum.

*Wallace, Idaho, claims to be the “center of the universe.” Prove them otherwise. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

These folks in Wallace have a sense of humor – and an eye for a profit-making tourism-promoting gimmick: they designated a manhole at the crossroads in the middle of town as the “Center of the Universe” (that’s what is engraved on it). Based on what? “What’s the evidence that it isn’t?” comes the reply.

*A mummified mermaid, one of the curiosities and collectibles on view in the Trading Post, Wallace, Idaho © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

I find a shop that sells guns, antiques, curios, and collectibles. In a glass cabinet is a large mummified “mermaid” (calling to mind a similar fantastical creature displayed in a store in Banff, Canada, and P.T. Barnum’s museum of oddities).

*Poster above rifle barrels in the Wallace, Idaho gun shop: Americanism © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

It’s a delightful bike ride from Wallace to the Silver Mountain Resort in Kellogg, where later we have dinner together in the mountain village base.

DAY 5: 39 or 46 miles, Cataldo Mission and the Coeur d’Alenes

The plan on Day 5 is to set out from the Silver Mountain Resort biking on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, and after 11 miles or so, to visit the Cataldo Mission, Idaho’s oldest standing building, lunch at the Rodehouse before continuing biking, with a choice of 39 or 46 miles of cycling to Harrison, where we are to be shuttled back to the resort for a celebratory dinner in Kellogg for our last night together.

But it is a drenching rain.

Our guide, Calista Phillips, says “There is no bad weather, only bad clothing” and says her job is to cheer lead for biking, but if we don’t want to, we can choose to shuttle the first 11 miles instead of bike to the Cataldo Mission. After assuring us we won’t be missing much in the way of scenery and that the portion from Cataldo to Smelterville is the pretty part, we vote to take her up on her offer to drive us to the Mission. (I’m just so grateful it wasn’t raining like this when we did the Route of the Hiawatha, especially when I see another bike tour heading out there this morning.)

The visit at the Cataldo Mission starts with an excellent video that explains how the local tribe invited the Jesuits (“Black Robes”) to come here and build the mission. At the time, the introduction of the horse meant that tribes that had coexisted in their own land before, began to encroach on each other’s territory. The tribe believed that the “Black Robe” missionaries had a superior power, a Great Spirit, who would enable them to triumph over their enemies.

The Mission of the Sacred Art was built in 1850-1853, by Father Pierre Jean De Smet, chief of the “Black Robes” who answered the tribe’s invitation to come, along with Father Ravalli, an Italian-born religious leader who designed the building and supervised construction with simple tools and without nails.

*Old Mission church, Cataldo, Idaho’s oldest standing building © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The Old Mission church is simple and beautiful – the wood-beamed ceiling painted blue with huckleberries, to make the native people more comfortable since they were used to praying outside. We learn that the walls were decorated with fabric bought from the Hudson Bay Company and a hand-painted newspaper from Philadelphia that Fr. Ravalli had received in the mail. Tin cans were used to create the chandeliers. Both wooden statues were carved by Fr. Rivalli with a knife to look like marble.

What I find most fascinating, though, is the museum there that better represents the tribe’s point of view – how they were initially drawn to Christianity with its values of “comfort, community” the sense of miraculous to be found in nature, and a Great Spirit with power to grant protection, like their own spirits, which seemed (at first) to conform with their own values and beliefs.

The Coeur d’Alene people – the Schitsu’umsh, meaning “Those who were found here” or “The discovered people” – were initially drawn in because the early Jesuits were tolerant of native culture and traditions, even blending the cultures together.

The mission became a stop and supply station for traders, settlers, and miners traveling on the Mullan Road, and a port for boats heading up the Coeur d’Alene River.

Over time, the Coeur d’Alene people regretted the decision to give the Black Robes a stronghold when they realized the Jesuits’ mission was to create an Empire of Christianity. At the same time, white settlers looking to exploit the region’s resources, who brought guns and small pox, were taking territory and pushing out the indigenous tribes. In 1877, even the mission was forcibly relocated from the ‘House of the Great Spirit.”

The museum displays photos and artifacts that show the effort to Christianize and eradicate native heritage and culture – but done in an understated, polite way since this museum, is apparently a partnership between the tribe and the mission. (The Cataldo Mission became a state historic park in 1935, was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961, and put on the National Register of Historic Places in 1966.)

We have lunch at the Rodehouse, right across the road from the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. By this time, the rain has all but ended – it is grey and humid – and we get back on the trail for the 16-mile ride back to the resort. The cloud formations make for dramatic scenes.

*Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho through marshland © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

We cycle along an enchanting stretch of wetlands – part of the trail is a berm with marsh on either side. We have been told “just after Metamonk Village (mile 20) to be on lookout for moose.

I spot an osprey with fish in its claws so heavy it couldn’t take flight so dropped it; a black furry creature (otter? muskrat?) carrying what looked like a mouse dashes across the path; a flock of blue heron, a family of deer, and finally, when we are almost at the end of the trail, we come upon a moose with her baby.

*Finally! We come upon the promised moose and her baby on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

DAY 6: 16 miles to the end of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes

Day 6 is our final day of riding. We pack up our luggage, have breakfast, and shuttle to Harrison, the point on the trail where we ended yesterday’s ride. Today, we bike the last section, 16 miles, through a series of chained lakes to the end of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. It is glorious.

It’s a perfect day – sunshine, cool temp (60 degrees), a bit of a headwind. We ride along the Lake Coeur d’Alene, then cross over the Chatcolet Bridge, a really interesting bridge which was once a swinging trestle (the challenge is to ride over the hump), then into the forest where we climb for about seven miles, through the Coeur D’Alene reservation, to finish at the trail’s end, at a moving Indian Warriors and Veterans Memorial.

Here we have a picnic lunch, feeling extremely satisfied and happy, before we pack into the van again for an hour-drive back at Spokane Airport or downtown.

*At the end of Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, Idaho is this monument to the Warriors and Veterans © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Discovery Bicycle Tours Merges into Active Adventures

*Our Idaho Trails group. Discovery Bicycle Tours specializes in small-groups and personalized service. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Discovery Bicycle Tours has just joined Austin Adventures, a Montana-based North America National Parks small group tour company, under the umbrella ownership of Active Adventures, a New Zealand-based small group adventure travel company. These companies primarily offer hiking and multi-sport options, and just like Discovery Bicycle Tours, focus on small groups (averaging 12 guests).

Austin Adventures is a Montana-based North American National Parks expert offering small group tours with personal touches, flexible options to do as much or as little as you want, and “wow” moments. Austin Adventures also specializes in family and multi-generational tours across North America and around the globe.

Active Adventures, based in New Zealand, has expanded over the past 30 years to South and Central America, Europe, the Himalayas and Africa. They offer small group, inspiring bucket-list adventures worldwide, with a mix of activities ranging from hiking, biking, and kayaking to snorkeling and caving. Each trip is designed to be flexible, so if you’re a little short on time or you’d prefer to skip an activity, they can alter the itinerary to suit you.

The merger means that the teams behind Discovery Bicycle Tours, Active Adventures, and Austin Adventures are located around the world in five countries, 15 cities, and even a campervan.

“Across the three brands, we’ve been running tours in North America for 77 years, Europe for 50 years, New Zealand for 25 years, South and Central America for 20 years, the Himalayas for 14 years, and Africa for five years. That’s a world of knowledgeand deep local experience across our brands,” Scott Cone, Discovery’s owner, stated.

Discovery Bicycle Tours, 800-257-2226, www.discoverybicycletours.com

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Biking Tours, Outdoors Adventures, See America, US Destinations

Six Days Cycling Idaho Trails with Discovery Bicycle Tours

February 2, 2025 krubin723

Biking through the pitch black, 1.66-mile long St. Paul Pass Tunnel the first of nine tunnels, seven trestles on the 14-mile long Route of the Hiawatha, a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

It’s pitch black as we make our way 1.66 miles through the first tunnel of the Route of the Hiawatha, except for the light on our bike. Water drips down from the ceiling, the surface is muddy and slippery, adrenalin pumping. It is hugely thrilling.

This is just the first (and the most dramatic) of the 9 tunnels and 7 trestles we go through over the course of 14 miles down, then back through again for 14 miles up. It is also the longest – a full 1.66 miles in total darkness! – but each tunnel, each trestle is exciting. You can immediately appreciate why the Route of the Hiawatha is one of Rails to Trails Conservancy’s Hall of Fame rail trails.

*Starting out on the 14-mile long Route of the Hiawatha,* *a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The experience is but one of many highlights of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip, during which we will do the 111-mile long Centennial Trail, starting in Spokane Washington to Coeur d’Alene; tackle the remarkable Route of the Hiawatha Trail; and the 73-mile long Trail of the Coeur D’Alenes where we immerse in tribal land, history and culture. Along the way, we will also have interesting experiences such as touring a silver mine in the company of a miner and a museum preserving the heritage of the Coeur d’Alene people.

*Biking the Centennial Trail from Spokane, Washington, on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

What I love most about bike tours is that they are cerebral as much as physical. You feel the scenery; you are part of the space you occupy, engaged – not a spectator peering through a glass window, but a participant, able to smell the air, feel the sun, the breeze, the drizzle, hear the birds and the rushing water. The pace is perfect to really get places while the scenery rolls by as if a movie. And you can stop when you want to take in the scene or a photo, read a marker, or peer at a moose. You feel the satisfaction, the sense of accomplishment at the end of a day’s ride – a combination of euphoria and endorphin rush.

*Bike tours bring you to towns and villages you likely would never otherwise see © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

What is more, you get to go through small towns, see regular folks you would not likely see traveling by car or bus, promoting connection and understanding. And you have the added satisfaction of maximizing the benefit of your visit – providing the economic foundation that secures this heritage, these natural places, these experiences – leaving a minimal carbon footprint. This is true if you are touring in the United States or some faraway exotic land.

As we gather together for our first orientation meeting with our guides, I take note that just about every one of our group of 13 riders has taken not just one, two but several trips with Discovery Bicycle Tours.

This is my fourth, and I consistently find Discovery’s whole approach to bike touring ideal – summed up in the phrases “Ride your ride” followed by “This is your vacation!”– and how they make that happen. There are two guides (they take turns driving the van that shuttles our stuff, sets up our snack-stops, and is there if anyone needs assistance; while the other cycles along, bringing up the rear), but most importantly, we bike at our own pace. This is because we have our own Ride with GPS App, customized by Scott Cone (the company’s owner, he calls himself Adventure Consultant) for each itinerary; they even provide a phone holder on our bike.

The accommodations, restaurant choices and food are the perfect mix of charming reflections of the places we tour, and luxury (as much comfort as you would ever want without going over the top), adding immeasurably to the tour. The bikes (five of us use their hybrid, eight others take advantage of the availability of e-bikes at no extra cost) and equipment provided are top notch, and it bears noting that I consistently find Discovery offers excellent value-for-money.

*Our guides, Susie Iventosch and Calista Phillips, on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Our guides, Susie Iventosch and Calista Phillips, are fantastic – really knowledgeable, supportive, encouraging, accurate (I appreciate having a realistic view of what the day’s ride will be), and flexible when necessary (like when we all vote not to ride during a downpour but shuttle the first 11 miles of the day’s route).

The trips are designed for maximum enjoyment of the ride – we are shuttled when it makes sense to or from the ride, and given options of longer or shorter routes each day. And the routes they choose, as well as the added activities (a lecture one evening, the silver mine tour another day, a visit to a museum another) add dimension. I also appreciate the advance preparation – documents, itinerary – and care they provide before the trip.

Day 1: Setting Out on the Centennial Trail, 36 Miles

*Biking the Centennial Trail from Spokane, Washington, on Day 1 of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Our first morning starts with an early meet-up at the Hilton Garden Inn close to Spokane Airport, for introductions and orientation, and we are shuttled to Sontag Park, the start of the Centennial Trail, where we are fitted to our bikes, get the Ride with GPS app going, and set out on a really beautiful ride. Suzie notes that this first day will be the most challenging of the tour.

We start pedaling along the Washington portion of the Centennial Trail in the rocky canyons west of Spokane. The beginning of the trail is in the forest, and soon rises so that we have this gorgeous view of the Spokane River far below. And once you do the first hill, you feel you can do the second (which is the steepest of the day), then the third (the longest, but not as steep – a piece of cake).

We pass through Spokane’s urban Riverfront Park that I have so enjoyed visiting for the past three days, and end, 36 miles further down, just five miles before the Washington-Idaho state line, where we are picked up by the van and are taken to the charming Roosevelt Inn where we stay for two nights, in Coeur D’Alene. (Our next day’s ride will bring us back to this same spot, so we can ride the five miles into Idaho.)

*The charming Roosevelt Inn, our base for two nights in Coeur d’Alene © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

I adore the Roosevelt Inn – it is so much a part of Coeur d’Alene. Named for President Theodore Roosevelt who came through the area in 1903 on a campaign whistle stop, the building dates from 1905 when it was Coeur D’Alene’s first school, then became offices, and is now a most charming 14-room bnb. Each room is named for someone with a picture and bio, and provides plush robes and towels. The inn offers a hot tub and sauna (open 24 hours), and absolutely gorgeous gardens (life-size chess). There is a lovely parlor with gorgeous painted mural along the three walls, where there is a refrigerator guests can use; a constant supply of coffee, tea and hot chocolate; fruit and usually, something freshly baked. Each morning, we are served breakfast to order,

This first evening we enjoy dinner together at a pub-style restaurant (a celebratory drink is included).

DAY 2: 14 or 27 miles, Centennial Trail

*Biking the Centennial Trail along Lake Coeur d’Alene on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

After breakfast at The Roosevelt Inn on our second day, we shuttle to Lovely Falls Park, the headwaters of the Spokane River. The trail takes us along the majestic shores of Lake Coeur d’Alene.

The ride today is 14 miles out and back to the endpoint of the Centennial Trail at Higgins Point, the endpoint of the Centennial Trail, mostly hugging the gorgeous shoreline of Lake Coeur d’Alene, until we come to one major hill up, then down – which means (if we are biking back) we have an even steeper return.

*Enjoying the scenery in Coeur d’Alene © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

We have the option to ride back in the van, but all of us choose to bike back to The Roosevelt, cycling at our own pace. It is early afternoon when we return, so we have plenty of time to enjoy exploring the charming shops and galleries of Coeur d’Alene (a hugely popular destination), swim in the lake or relax. I find a lovely hiking trail along the cliffs.

We are treated to a talk by historian Shauna Hillman give a delightful talk about the town of Wallace, Idaho and the Silver Valley Mine which we will be visiting (‘Murder, mining, prostitution, the mayor murdered his wife’s lover and got away with it, and was reelected twice!”) as we sit in the inn’s lovely garden – before heading out to have dinner on our own.

DAY 3: 15 or 28 miles, Route of the Hiawatha

*Group photo before start biking the Trail of the Hiawatha on Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

After two delightful nights at the Roosevelt Inn in Coeur d’Alene, we pack up in preparation for moving our home base to a mountain resort in Kellogg for the remainder of trip. After breakfast, we shuttle 90 minutes east to the trailhead of the famous Route of the Hiawatha.

Biking the Route of The Hiawatha is an extraordinary experience in the annals of bike trails. Our guides, Suzie and Calista, prepare us extremely well for what we will do, that the first tunnel, the St. Paul Pass Tunnel, is the longest at 1.66 miles long, and is pitch black, damp and a constant 47 degrees. They have put lights on our bikes (you are not allowed to go on the trail without a helmet and bike light).

After we excitedly take group photos at the entrance, we set out at our own pace, with the caveat that we have to start biking back up at 2:30 pm (note there is an hour time change from the start).

Biking through the St. Paul Pass Tunnel is a surreal experience – you can’t see what is above or on the side, only what is lit by the narrow beam where your light shines.

When you get out and ride the hard-packed gravel trail, it goes steadily down a 3% grade for 14 miles. The scenery is quite spectacular, especially when you look down at a thin pencil line and realize that is the trestle you will be riding across. It looks so small, so far away and far down. And then you are there, and it isn’t thin at all. The view from the trestle is spectacular, too.

*Trestles look like thin pencils from above on the Trail of the Hiawatha © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The trestles are so high above where you imagine is the valley floor, you feel you are suspended.

It is 14 miles down on hard-packed gravel to where there is a picnic table where we have a box lunch we had ordered, before riding back up the same 14 miles. If you don’t want to ride back up, you can buy a ticket ($20) to take a shuttle bus. We all bike back. (Notably, there are several bathrooms along the way and water supplied.)

*Biking one of seven trestles on the Route of the Hiawatha,* *a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

I must admit I am a bit nervous to ride continuously uphill for 14 miles but it actually isn’t bad at all, and there are all these opportunities to stop for the view, or read the interpretive signs that line the trail that tell the history of the Milwaukee Road Railroad. The view and the fresh air are exhilarating.

*Biking through one of nine tunnels on the Route of the Hiawatha,* *a highlight of Discovery Bicycle Tours’ six-day Idaho Trails trip © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The Hiawatha, considered one of the more successful rail-trail conversions in the United States, was named to the Rails to Trails Conservancy’s national Hall of Fame in 2010. It was developed from a railroad line, developed in the late 1800s, that went out of business in the 1980s.

One of the historic markers along the way tells of the Great Fire of 1910. One of the most devastating forest fires in American history, it burned 3 million acres of forest in northern Idaho and western Montana. The fire was so huge that a massive cloud of smoke spread throughout southern Canada and the northern United States all the way to the St. Lawrence waterway. The darkness from the smoke was so bad that for 5 days, artificial lighting had to be used from Butte, Montana to Chicago to Watertown, New York. The fire completely devastated the St. Joe River valley and destroyed all of the towns except Avery and Marble Creek, many never rebuilt.

The marker tells of heroic actions by the railroad employees who drove engines and box cars filled with people through the flames to the safety of the longer tunnels, saving 600 lives.

It feels soooo good when I come back through that last, longest (1.66 miles), darkest tunnel, being careful not to ride up on the person in front, or slipping in the muddy surface.

At the end, it is a work out that makes you feel so ecstatic, euphoric when you finish.

You need to have a reserved timed ticket to ride the Hiawatha, which is owned by the U.S. National Forest but operated by Lookout Pass Ski Area. (Discovery Bicycle Trails has taken care of our reservations and the ticket, $20 pp; the shuttle is $20 more.)

Feeling quite elated, we pile back into the van to shuttle to the Silver Mountain Resort in Kellogg, where we stay in spacious and comfortable condo accommodations for three nights.

Discovery Bicycle Tours, 800-257-2226, www.discoverybicycletours.com

Next: Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Arts & Entertainment, Attractions, Cultural travel, See America, US Destinations

A River Runs Through It: Discovering Spokane, Washington

February 1, 2025 krubin723

A river runs through it: Spokane, Washington, is a marvelous synthesis of city and wilderness, historic and contemporary that makes it a delight to visit as well as live © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

My long-held desire to bike the award-winning Route of Hiawatha rail trail in Idaho provides the opportunity to discover the enormous appeal of Spokane, Washington, where the Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails bike tour begins. I cleverly arrange to come in three days early to give myself time to immerse, staying at the exquisitely grand and historic Hotel Davenport, so connected to Spokane’s story and walking distance to most everything I want, and even taking advantage of their bicycles to get a jump on the Centennial Trail which figures so prominently in the bike tour, too.

This is all new territory for me.

The first delightful surprise is how easy it is to navigate Spokane International Airport (if you’ve been through JFK and LaGuardia in New York, you will appreciate what I mean) – a few steps to the door, and a few steps more to a wonderfully convenient public bus that takes me steps from the Davenport’s door (the bus driver and fellow travelers are so helpful! – something I find throughout my stay in Spokane) – just $2 for the fare (which you can use to transfer or return within 2 hours; $4/day or $12 for three-days).

It doesn’t take long for me to realize why Spokane, with its natural and cultural appeal, isn’t just a great place to visit, but a great place to live.

*Walk over the bridges that connect the several islands of Riverfront Park to get a dramatic view of the rapids © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Imagine strolling over America’s largest urban waterfalls, walking 15 minutes from downtown to a rafting trip on a river that cuts through evergreen forest, and getting on a bike in the downtown city park – the site of the 1974 World’s Fair, appropriately themed for environmental protection – and biking 58 miles on the trail to Coeur- d’Alene in Idaho. This is Spokane, Washington – and even though it is 95 degrees outside, it doesn’t feel hot.

Spokane is this vibrant city organized for its people. Of course, it wasn’t always that way, but the same reasons it developed into a hub of the West – railroads, commerce and mining – Spokane was an early adopter of sustainability and environmental protection while transitioning into the 21st century by holding on to what was best about the past.

For me, the mark of a place that takes pride in itself and has community spirit is one that has historic markers and plaques and its respect for historic and cultural places.

You feel it especially in the historic Davenport Hotel – a truly grand dame that is very happy to share its stories.

So I begin my exploration with a tour of The Historic Davenport Hotel (see Historic Hotel Davenport Puts You into Spokane’s Story)

*The grand dame historic Hotel Davenport has helped spark Spokane’s downtown renaissance. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

From there, the concierge directs me to the public bus (the central depot is across the street), for a ride to visit the magnificent Manito Park. (1702 S Grand Blvd). This is a spectacular 90-acre oasis in the in the South Hill neighborhood that features five distinct gardens: the Duncan Garden (a formal garden where I notice the fountain is dedicated to Louis Davenport who built the Davenport Hotel), Rose Garden, Perennial Garden, Lilac Garden and (my favorite) the Japanese Garden. (If you come in the afternoon, save the enchanting Japanese Garden for last; if you come in the morning, see it with the morning light.)

*The Japanese Garden in Manito Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Most wonderfully, the Manito Park, is really a neighborhood park – much like Central Park in New York City, and Golden Gate Park, in San Francisco – grand and yet neighborly. Besides the gardens, Manito Park has spacious manicured lawns, playgrounds, walking trails and biking paths, topiary shrubs, a greenhouse conservatory, a conservatory and a duck pond. It gets some 150,000 visitors a year. (Best viewing May-October, http://www.manitopark.org/)

An absolute highlight for me – almost a homebase during my stay in Spokane – is Riverfront Park. Just a few minutes walk from the Historic Davenport Hotel, I found myself wandering into the park two, even three times during the day.

It is actually one of the rare successes in urban renewal: once a blighted space, the city seized on the opportunity to host the 1974 World’s Fair (notably the first expo themed around environmental conservation) to make major, lasting improvements serving the community in myriad ways. There is so much here, and it is so pleasant being here that I find myself coming to the park at least twice each day (morning and evening) of my visit.

*Numerica SkyRide gondola gives a birds-eye view of Spokane’s waterfalls © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Riverfront Park was opened by President Nixon (who made an eloquent speech about the importance of environmental protection and resigned by the time the Fair closed). It is pure delight for residents and visitors alike: stroll over bridges for spectacular views of the falls; be carried over the falls on the Numerica SkyRide gondola, channel your inner child on the historic Looff Carrousel, fantastic playgrounds and rides (slide down The Red Wagon, a giant Flyer), and feed the Garbage Goat (a clever way to encourage composting).

*Families enjoy the Red Wagon in Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Enjoy a concert at the United States Pavilion which was saved and repurposed as an outdoor performance venue seating as many as 6000 (there was a concert there during my visit) – the roof replaced by steel ribbings that are lighted at night.

*The United States Pavilion, built for the 1974 World’s Fair, is now a performance venue accommodating 6,000 people © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The park actually is composed of several islands connected by bridges. One of the islands pays tribute to Spokane’s indigenous heritage. There is a totem pole and story board stations.

The bridges pass over the rapids and falls, for dramatic views you would never expect in an urban landscape. The pathways weave throughout – you come upon a fantastic playground; sculptures, attractions.

*The Garbage Goat is an iconic sculpture in Spokane’s Riverfront Park with a message of envirionmentalism © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

I stop into the Riverfront Park Visitor Center (actually the Visit Spokane tourist center), where I learn about the Great Fire of 1889 that destroyed 90 percent of the downtown – the only surviving buildings were those made of brick by the railroad company. What was left became the historic district (but there are some modern skyscrapers that seem so out of place, that were built before the new rules were put into place).

Also going through the park is the Centennial Trail, a biking/pedestrian/recreational trail that extends for miles into Idaho, which I will take from beginning to end the end on my upcoming Idaho Trails bike tour.

It is an interesting experience to be walking distance of a rafting experience in a major city – the Spokane River that goes through the city gives the city its special beauty and quality of life (as well as its hydroelectric power). It can be said that the river energizes the city – and this confluence of nature, urbanity and livability is what makes Spokane such a hot place for people to put down roots.

*Enjoying a pleasant float down the Spokane River © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Within minutes, we embark from the Peaceful Valley neighborhood on a two hour-long scenic Spokane River Float with Wiley Waters. (Wear water-shoes and a bathing suit; a dry bag is provided, as well as drinks). It’s the end of the season so is a very gentle glide – towards the end, we hop off the raft for a brisk dunk. The season runs May-September (Wiley E. Waters, riverrafting.net, 888-502-1900).

In the evening, I return to the Riverfront Park to once again stroll about as the sun set.

*The view from the Centennial Trail © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The next morning, I take advantage of the Davenport’s bike rental (two hours are included in the resort fee), to bike on the The Centennial Trail in Riverfront Park. I ride west, toward Riverside State Park, where the Centennial Trail begins. The trail in this direction goes along the high ridge that follows the Spokane River well below – just beautiful – and passed these beautiful housing complexes that are wonderfully designed, sharing the trail with families out for a stroll, runners, walkers, and cyclists. (Again, pointing to the livability of Spokane).

I bike up to the point where the trail has a sharp descent which I would have ride back up (with a three-speed city bike) so I leave that for the bike tour which will start at the very beginning of the trail and ride to where it ends, 58 miles away, in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

Instead, I cycle the trail in the other direction, going back through Riverfront Park, toward Gonzaga University campus in search of the famous singer/actor Bing Crosby’s childhood home, which is actually on the campus and now a museum.

*Bing Crosby’s childhood home is now a museum on the Gonzaga University campus © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

I knew that the museum would be closed when I arrive. I later learn that the museum has a Norman Rockwell painting of Bing Crosby, based on a promotional photograph from the 1949 movie musical “A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court.”

There is also a statue on the campus in front of the Bing Crosby Hall (Crosby made major donations to the university and though he quit school to pursue his career in music, the university gave him an honorary degree in 1937.)

(Crosby House, 508 E. Sharp Avenue, Spokane, WA 99258, 509-313-4064).

In the afternoon, I head to the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture.

To get there, I could easily hop on the purple City Line lightrail from just across the street from the Davenport and get off in Browne’s Addition, but I prefer to walk the mile.

*Spokane is still a cultural hub with theaters like the Fox Theater, which dates from 1931© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The walk takes me passed the Bing Crosby Theater, the Fox Theater (1931), gorgeous Art Deco buildings that exemplify Spokane’s importance as a cultural center for the Northwest, its legacy as an important commercial hub on the railroad line, and its wealth from nearby Idaho mines.

Strolling through the Browne’s Addition neighborhood enroute to the Northwest museum of Arts and Culture, you see some of the fabulous Victorian mansions reflecting Spokane’s wealth from commerce, mining and railroads © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I pass stunning Victorian mansions – most of them now inns or museums – but none more magnificent than the Campbell House, which is now part of the museum and a “must visit” (be aware of the opening hours).

Founded in 1918, the Smithsonian-affiliated Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture presents an extensive, permanent collection of Plateau Tribal art and artifacts, Pacific Northwest art, regional historical objects and archives. It really offers a synthesis of the history and heritage here, with appropriate respect for the tribal people.

Having spent time in Riverfront Park, I am particularly fascinated to see the special exhibition, “It Happened Here: Expo ’74 Fifty Years After.”

A 50th anniversary commemoration exhibit of Spokane’s 1974 World’s Fair shows how the fair proved one of the most successful urban renewal projects, leaving behind Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

In 1974, Spokane was the smallest city ever to host a world’s fair. During its six-month run, the fair presented exhibits from ten countries, featured a star-studded events calendar, sponsored three environmental symposiums and attracted 5.6 million visitors. “Fifty years later, Expo ’74 remains one of the single most transformative events in Spokane’s history, radically reshaping its natural and built environment. Expo ’74 ushered in a new era for the city – one centered on urban renewal, commercial growth, and political progress,” the notes state. The fair also kindled a community spirit.

*Liberace’s costume from Spokane’s 1974 World’s Fair © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

There are fantastic artifacts (Liberace’s bejeweled denim costume, Sister Paula Turnbull’s model for Spokane’s now iconic Garbage Goat, and an original Sky Ride gondola), but particularly interesting were the videos – Nixon’s speech on opening day extolling the virtues of environmentalism, which was the theme of the fair and how Spokane was a model and inspiration to emulate (Nixon had resigned by the time the fair closed 3 months later), and a video from the Soviet Union showing how the country is “enforcing” environmentalism. (The exhibit has since closed, but is indicative of what is presented.)

*The Northwest Museum of Culture & Arts hosted a riveting exhibit, ;1924: Sovreignty, Leadership, and the Indian Citizenship Act” © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

I am fortunate to visit when the museum is presenting a riveting exhibit,”1924: Sovereignty, Leadership, and the Indian Citizenship Act.” 1924 was the year that American Indians were declared citizens and ostensibly entitled to vote (though the equivalent of Jim Crow laws prevented most from voting until the 1965 Voting Rights Act).

Shortly after Congress enacted the Indian Citizenship Act, granting citizenship to all American Indians born in the United States, on June 2, 1924, Spokane announced it would host the first American Indian Congresses in 1925. These were some of the first events where tribal leaders, government officials, and community members from around the United States gathered to formally participate in talks on rights and advocacy. 1924 commemorates this 100-year anniversary, centering on early local tribal leadership as they and their people navigated the sometimes-conflicting nature of being both U.S. citizens and citizens of their own sovereign nations. One of the photos shows the Congress taking place in the Davenport Hotel’s ballroom.

*The Campbell House at the Northwest Museum of Culture & Arts © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Be sure you leave enough time to visit The Campbell House and its carriage house (admission to the house closes an hour before the museum, so in retrospect, should have done it first.).

The Campbell House is an absolute jewel with exquisite architecture, interior decoration (some of the furnishings are original to the house; others are appropriate period pieces). The mansion was designed in 1898 for the Campbell family by architect Kirtland K. Cutter (who also designed the historic Davenport Hotel). Cutter incorporated all the modern technologies available – indoor plumbing, hot and cold running water, electricity, central heat and even a telephone.

*At the carriage house of the Campbell House, you get to know who this family was and what life was like in Spokane © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The carriage house holds the personal story of the Campbells and the Spokane community of the time – artifacts and photographs, a car that would have been very much like the one the Campbell’s had. It is so interesting to have such a personal look at this family.

Campbell made his fortune investing in the mines of north Idaho (that I will be visiting soon on the Discovery Bicycle Tours’ Idaho Trails trip). The Campbell family (his wife was a school teacher) lived here for 26 years and in 1924, after both parents had passed away, their daughter, Helen, donated the house to the Eastern Washington Historical Society which started the museum. Now it is under the auspices of the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture.

(Open Tuesday-Sunday, 12-4 pm, admission included with museum ticket)

Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, 2316 W First Avenue, Spokane 99201, northwestmuseum.org (give yourself at least 2 hours, more like 3)

In the evening I return again to the Riverfront Park (after dashing to REI before closing to buy bike gloves before my trip). The setting sun casts a pink glow in the sky and I am once again awed by the dramatic view over the falls – the largest urban falls in the country, apparently. And I finally get my chance to ride the Looff Carrousel.

*Riding the Looff Carrousel in Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The beloved, iconic attraction of the park was hand-carved by Charles Looff in 1909 as a gift for his daughter and her husband. Looff, an immigrant from Germany, arguably was America’s first great carousel carver having made wooden animals for Coney Island’s carousel. This carousel was set in an amusement park, Natatorium Park, for many years before the park closed in 1968.

When Natatorium Park closed, in 1968, the carousel was put up for auction. Spokane’s parks manager was determined to save the carousel for the city, enduring criticism from those who felt he wasted money because there was no place for it, so it was put into storage. But then the 1974 Expos came, and the carousel was taken out and placed in the park, where it has remained.

*The Looff Carrousel in Riverfront Park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

It is magical enough to ride the carousel, but I get to ride the carousel as night is falling, the colorful lights coming on – the kids grabbing for the brass ring and tossing it to try to win a free ride. The original organ – its 300 pipes equivalent to a 60-piece band – still operates but is used only for special occasions. As we ride, we hear the original music as it was recorded and digitized.

Equally exquisite is the view of the carousel reflected in the water from outside.

To plan your visit: Visitor Information Center, Riverfront Park, 6y20 W. Spokane Falls Blvd, Spokane, WA 99201, 888-SPOKANE, Visit Spokane, www.visitspokane.com.

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Historic Hotels, Historic Places, Hotels & Resorts, See America, US Destinations

Historic Hotel Davenport Puts You into Spokane’s Story

January 31, 2025 krubin723

*“Meet me at the fireplace”: The historic Hotel Davenport has been a centerpiece of Spokane, Washington’s society since 1914 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Nothing puts you as instantly into the story of Spokane, Washington as a stay at the grand, historic Hotel Davenport.

For the past 110 years – except for the 15 years it was boarded up with a wrecking ball looming – the Davenport has been at the center of Spokane’s society. Staying here puts you into that story – most remarkably when you see the black-and-white photographs on the wall and see the rooms just as they were, easily imagining the people filling them just as then.

*The historic Hotel Davenport has been restored to its gracious grandeur © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Since the Davenport opened in 1914, it has been known as Spokane’s “living room” and folks would make their date to “meet me at the fireplace.” Today, it is even more than that – it is like someone who has been listening and watching all these things unfold over the past 110 years and is so anxious to share.

Louis Davenport who built this grand hotel had been operating a hugely successful restaurant with a grand ballroom at a time when the number of business travelers and salesmen coming through the Spokane transit hub on the Great Northern Railway was burgeoning. Davenport was approached by local investors to build a hotel that would cater to the growing demand.

Considering Davenport’s humble beginnings (he is a classic incarnation of the American Dream), he was surprisingly sophisticated in wanting his hotel to not only give visitors the feeling of making a Grand Tour through Europe, but with state-of-the- art construction and the most modern amenities.

*Louis Davenport’s original restaurant has been repurposed but the 14-story hotel, once the tallest building in Spokane, has been meticulously restored © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The Davenport was the first hotel in the country with air conditioning, a central vacuum system, ice cold drinking water piped to each guest room, housekeeping carts and accordion ballroom doors, Marshall Taylor, the Davenport’s Guest Experience Manager, tells me on a grand tour of the hotel. Davenport used steel-reinforced concrete for his building material and imported artisans to make the pillars look like veined-marble and the cast plaster beams to look like wood with gilded reliefs. Indeed, this is how the structure, even after being closed for more than 15 years, could be restored, albeit at the cost of millions, to its former grandeur. (Guest rooms were in fact gutted and rebuilt and redesigned to appeal to modern guests/meet modern standards).

Davenport hired architect Kirtland Cutter who had become Spokane’s most prominent architect after the Great Fire of 1889 destroyed most of the downtown, responsible for so many of the city’s iconic mansion homes (I later see the magnificent Campbell House), buildings and bridges (including the majestic Monroe Street bridge) to design the Davenport Hotel to bring the world to Spokane. The lobby is in the Spanish Renaissance style, with utterly stunning beams and a skylight that in fact is lighted by sunlight (they had to put black tar on it during WWII because of the proximity to Fairchild Air Force Base; it was cleaned up during the restoration.)

The Isabella Ballroom, named for Queen Isabella, was originally the hotel’s dining room is in the the Spanish Renaissance style of northern Spain.

*Louis Davenport wanted to give his guests a “grand tour of Europe” – the Isabella Ballroom was designed in Spanish Renaissance style © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The Marie Antoinette Ballroom is in French Neo-Classical design (Mrs. Davenport’s favorite room in the hotel) – the crystal chandeliers are original, each costing $10,000 (more than the cost of a family home at the time). You can still feel what it was like to dance on the original floating dance floor, suspended on cables so dancers could been light on their feet. There is a photo of the ballroom on opening night in 1914. Women used to gather on the balcony and if they spotted a fellow they liked, might drop a glove that the fellow would return and ask for a dance. Originally there was a door that led to salesmen’s rooms, where they would conduct mini-trade shows to show off their wares.

The Elizabethan Room is in English Tudor-style, possibly the first hotel ballroom in the world to employ folding panel doors to divide one large room into several smaller rooms (the original panel doors are still used). The chandeliers are original, each made with 75 pounds of sterling silver. A few of the hotel’s original 405 telephones are along the base of the window wall.

The Grand Pennington Ballroom evokes Imperial Russia. This room was created during the renovation and named for the Pennington Hotel that once occupied the site. New chandeliers are from Spain, carpeting from England.

*The Hall of Doges, designed by Cutter after the Doge Palace in Venice, boasts being the only “flying ballroom” in the world © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The Hall of Doges, designed by Cutter, is almost mythical in its beauty – it literally takes your breath away – you feel you have been transported to Venice. Spokane’s oldest ballroom, the Davenport boasts it is the only “flying ballroom” in the world. Indeed, the room was originally above Davenport’s restaurant in 1904, the year Cutter converted the red brick façade of the restaurant into a Spanish mission design, and a decade before the hotel opened. At the time, it was the largest and grandest ballroom in the West (you can well believe the hyperbole), built at a cost of $30,000. Cutter took as his inspiration the Palaces of the Doges in Venice. But in the 2000 renovation, the entire Hall of the Doges was removed intact by a crane and placed inside the newly constructed east wing of the hotel (the original restaurant was completely removed and now serves as the carport). There is actually a photo of the ballroom “flying” in the air.

*The Hall of Doges, designed by Cutter after the Doge Palace in Venice, is breathtaking © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The Peacock Lounge with its magnificent stained glass ceiling of some 5,000 pieces, has a décor and ambiance that exudes the flamboyance of the Jazz Age. With the Davenport in the center of Spokane’s downtown entertainment district, the Peacock Lounge the place for pre-and post-show libations (check out the award-winning double martinis and custom cocktails). (Open seating, first-come, first-served).

*The Davenport’s Peacock Lounge is the place to be pre- and post-theater © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The fireplace in the lobby restaurant, which Davenport insisted upon as a symbol of hospitality, was first lit by architect Cutter in September 1914 and, as Davenport decreed, remains lit each and every day, even in summer. “Meet me by the fireplace” was a popular expression among the locals.

*The exquisite stained glass ceiling from the Davenport’s Peacock Lounge. All the Davenport hotels in Spokane have stained glass to match the hotel’s theme © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The fountain in the middle of the lobby, Taylor tells me, is made of stone from the same quarry as the Lincoln Memorial.

*The fountain in the Hotel Davenport’s lobby is made of stone from the same quarry as the Lincoln Memorial © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

For the restoration, they were able to preserve the exquisite woodwork and detail, copying what needed to be replaced. Taylor points me to a bit of wood molding where if you look closely, you can see where the words are scrawled, Will…..You….Marry….Me…stretched out on the wood trim.

It is legend about how it got there (encouraged by the hotel, no doubt), but most believable is that during the 2000-2 restoration, the restorer fell in love with a woman who worked in the banquet department and he embedded the words to propose. “It has become the popular place for proposals,” Taylor relates.

I love exploring this place – there is so much to see, discover and marvel at, especially with the wonderful ways the hotel showcases its history and heritage just about everywhere you look.

*Since architect Kirtland Cutter first lit the Hotel Davenport’s fireplace, it has remained lit every day, as decreed by Louis Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

To say the Davenport is grand would be an understatement – the hotel has hosted almost every US president of the 20th century as well as a few royals.

Spokane has always been a hub for culture and entertainment, as much as for business and commerce as well as for the entertainers and audience-goers – Mary Pickford, Tyrone Power, Amelia Earhart, Charles Lindbergh, Bob Hope, Will Rogers, John Philip Sousa and Elvis Presley. and that tradition continues today with more recent celebs – Cher, Neil Diamond, Cuba Gooding Jr., Jerry Seinfeld and Sting because Spokane is still a cultural hub, which you see when you cross the street..

*A display dedicated to Spokane-native singer/actor Bing Crosby who got his start in a band that played at the Hotel Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Most notably, though is Bing Crosby – the illustrious singer and movie star. He was born in Spokane (you can visit his childhood home on the campus of Gonzaga University. But before Crosby was so established as a singer, the young Harry “Bing” Crosby was the drummer for a local band called the Musicaladars that played on the KHQ radio station. KHQ, one of the first commercial radio stations in the Pacific, first went on the air in Seattle in 1922 and moved to Spokane to broadcast from the Davenport Hotel’s roof tower in 1925. The station featured local bands like Brill’s Orchestra and The Musicaladers. Crosby was featured on a radio interview, which led to him getting his national contract, Taylor relates, and the rest, as they say, is history. There is a marvelous display about Bing Crosby in a china cabinet on the mezzanine floor. (A theater named for him is right outside.)

Bing Crosby’s story is wonderful, but I am most fascinated with Louis Davenport, who epitomizes America’s self-made man.

*Louis Davenport himself sits in the historic Hotel Davenport’s lobby © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Taylor tells me that Louis Davenport came to Spokane in 1889 when he was about 20 years old, to help his uncle, Elijah Davenport, with his restaurant. His uncle’s restaurant burned down in 1889 with the Great Fire that destroyed most of the downtown.

“Louie went into the rubble and found a waffle iron. He built a temporary shop with a wood frame and canvas cover and used that waffle iron to sell waffles to the workmen clearing the debris. He opened his own restaurant in one year.”

With the rail line, Spokane had become a hub and a crossroads for commerce. Davenport’s restaurant was so successful, that Spokane’s founding fathers approached him to build a hotel to accommodate the business meetings of salespeople coming from Montana, Idaho, north and west, selling silver and gems from the Idaho mines, fish, seafood, lumber. They needed a hotel with a large meeting space – the closest other business hotel would have been the eight-story-high Empress Hotel in Victoria, Canada, built in 1908 with only one ballroom.

The Davenport, at 14 stories, was the tallest building in Spokane until The Paulson was built in the 1920s.

*Secretary of Commerce Herbert Hoover receiving the gift of a jacket from Alice Gary, Great Granddaughter of Chief Spokane Garry at the Hotel Davenport* *© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

You can see from the photos on the wall that the Davenport was a locus for history. The most profound photo is of the first American Indian Congress, in 1925, a gathering of the indigenous tribes in the Davenport ballroom that followed the 1924 passage of the Indian Citizenship Act. (I see the photo in an exhibit, 1924: Sovereignty, Leadership, and the Indian Citizenship Act, at the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture).

*The first American Indian Congress, in 1925, a gathering of the indigenous tribes in the Davenport ballroom that followed the 1924 passage of the Indian Citizenship Act* *© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The Davenport operated through the Great Depression and World War II. Louis Davenport sold the hotel in 1945 and died in 1951. The hotel changed hands several times, and when it finally closed in 1985, was in disrepair. At one point, the city wanted to demolish it and put up a proverbial parking lot. But the cost of asbestos abatement would have been ruinous.

Local entrepreneurs Walt and Karen Worthy came to the rescue. They spent two years and millions of dollars to restore the Davenport to its grandeur (the guest floors and service areas are new). The Davenport reopened in the summer of 2002 with stunning amenities including a gorgeous pool and a luxurious spa.

*The stunning detail in the Hotel Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The restoration was really a labor of love – and we get to appreciate the extraordinary artisanry of Melvin Holmes, the main restorer. His wife, Janice Holmes, was passionate about the restoration, especially the Marie Antoinette ballroom, where she scraped off layers of whitewash to find the original colors underneath – salmon, teal – and insisted it be restored to the original. Today it is absolutely magnificent (not gaudy) – with the soft salmon and delicate mint green, and gilding that does not overwhelm. She passed away before the project was completed so her husband, Melvin, painted a portrait of her in 1930s mid-century modern dress, which is on the balcony.

Janice Holmes, wife of the chief restorer Melvin Holmes, was passionate about restoring the Hotel Davenport to its original grandeur. He immortalized her in a portrait that is in the Isabella Ballroom © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Now owned by KSL Capital Partners (which owns the Alterra Mountain Company and Ikon Pass), there are five hotels in the Davenport Hotel Collection here in Spokane – each with a different theme, spirit, ambiance and vibe: Besides the Historic Davenport (Old World elegance), there is the Grand, which opened 2015 with a modern, Vegas style; the Tower, built in 2007 which has a safari theme; and the Centennial, which is a convention hotel.

The fifth property, the Lusso (a boutique hotel across the street from the Davenport, where Louis Davenport, himself, used to live, which was acquired in 2009 and has an Italian theme), has since been entirely renovated and renamed, and reopening in March as

The Louie at Davenport Hotel, a 48-key boutique property offering personalized luxury including Butler Service (the first and only offering of this kind in Spokane).

I love that The Davenport is walking (or biking) distance to most of what I want to see (especially just a few blocks from Riverfront Park, where I find myself at least twice a day, and where you will find America’s largest urban waterfall), making for an ideal base for exploring the city’s hot culinary scene, nature and cultural offerings, like the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, and the riverfront Centennial Trail. What isn’t in walking distance is easily accessed by a superb public transit system not more than a block away, which provides frequent service to take you everywhere else (including the airport, just about 20 minutes away) for a $2 fare (the return is free within two hours).

And so I immediately go off to explore. My first stop is by bus: the magnificent Manito Park, where I discover a fountain in its formal garden was donated by Louis Davenport.

*The formal garden at Manito Park has a fountain that was donated by Louis Davenport © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The 284-room Historic Davenport Hotel, offers electric car charging, convenience store, hair salon, indoor swimming pool, wedding services, concierge service, three restaurants, two bars/lounges, 18 meeting rooms, conference space, self- and valet parking, full-service spa, 24-hour fitness facilities, steam room, hot tub, disability accommodations, sustainability programs and is a member of the Marriott Autograph Collection (and Marriott Bonvoy loyalty)

The Historic Davenport Hotel, 10 S Post Street, Spokane, WA 99201, DavenportHotelCollection.com, 509-455-8888, 866-238-1697.

Next: Exploring Spokane

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Attractions, Getaways, Historic Places, Places of History, See America, US Destinations

Surprising Boston: Three Days on the Freedom Trail

October 29, 2024 krubin723

*The Freedom Trail is an actual brick line in the sidewalk that you can follow to Faneuil Hall and other important historic sites. ©Keroack Photography*

by Geri Bain for Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

If you had asked me whether I knew about Boston’s role in the American Revolution before my recent exploration of the Freedom Trail, I would have unthinkingly said, “Of course.” Hasn’t every American heard the story of Paul Revere’s Midnight Ride and the Boston Massacre in their history classes? Even people who don’t know who the current president is could probably tell you what happened at the Boston Tea Party. But just as visiting the Roman Forum expands your view of the ancient past, a thoughtful visit to Boston’s Freedom Trail will forever deepen and perhaps change your view of American history.

And it’s fun. You won’t need any maps or preparation. While most tourism routes use the term “trail” figuratively, Boston’s Freedom Trail is an actual 2.5 mile “trail” marked by a red brick line that you can follow to some of the most iconic sites in the birth of our country. Detailed historic markers all along the way make it easy to dip into the stories of our past on your own.

For those who prefer a more structured visit, there’s a wide array of guided tours that provide a more interactive approach. The Freedom Trail Foundation’s several daily 90-minute group tours are led by costumed guides (thefreedomtrail.org) and based on what I heard in passing over the course of my time in Boston, the tours are lively and informative. The Foundation also offers a free online brochure that can act as a self-guided tour. There are also free apps from the National Park Service (nps.gov/boston) with recorded commentary for major sites and apps focused on Black heritage and other themes.

*The Park Street Church was the nation’s tallest building when it was built in 1810.*
*©Keroack Photography*

DAY ONE: To get grounded, I chose a three-hour VIP Freedom Trail Tour by Walks (booked through City Experiences (www.cityexperiences.com/boston) which limits its group size to 15 people. The day I went, it was just me and a family of four. Our guide, Alexandra (Alex) Smith, was a theatre artist and history buff (who was currently directing “Revolution’s Edge,” a historical drama that was playing at the Old North Church). She used anecdotes and questions to capture our imaginations.

Standing in the Boston Common, she pointed out that the corner where the Park Street Church stands was dubbed Brimstone Corner both for the fiery sermons given at the church and because of the gunpowder stored there during the War of 1812.

*A visit to Paul Revere’s House humanizes one of America’s favorite heroes. ©Keroack Photography*

When we got to a statue of Paul Revere, Alex asked the two school-aged kids in our group if they’d heard about Paul Revere racing to Concord and shouting the warning “The British are coming”? They nodded.

“Well that’s not true.” They looked puzzled. First, she explained, all Bostonians considered themselves British back then, so those wouldn’t have been the words he would use. And second, the mission was a stealth operation so he wouldn’t have ridden through the streets yelling. And most important, the King’s soldiers were on patrol that night and Paul Revere was stopped and held for questioning before he could deliver his message to Concord. Wisely, he was not the only messenger who rode out that night, so the message got through.

Most people think of Paul Revere solely as a silversmith, but his work as a printer and an artist was key to his role as a patriot seeking to break with Great Britain. His print of the Boston Massacre was significant to organize public opinion against the British. Paul Revere, The Bloody Massacre Perpetrated on King Street, Boston. (Hand colored engraving, 1770. American Antiquarian Society. Gift of Nathaniel Paine.)

“So why does Paul Revere get the credit?” Alex asked us. She paused, then explained, that Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wanted to create a dramatic hero for America so he took artistic license in his poem The Midnight Ride of Paul Revere. It makes for a relatable and patriotically-motivating story to have a single hero.

*A plaque in front of the Old State House commemorates “The Boston Massacre.” ©Keroack Photography*

Another example of drama trumping truth took place at the Old State House. Pointing out the plaque that commemorates The Boston Massacre, Alex showed us a picture of British soldiers shooting into the crowd. That image, engraved by Paul Revere and sent to all the Colonial newspapers turned the “Boston Massacre” into a rallying cry against the British Crown. However, like Wadsworth’s poem, the engraving took poetic license.

Tensions had been building between Boston residents and the growing number of soldiers sent there to enforce new taxes but also taking jobs from local workers. One argument between a soldier and a colonist escalated, with soldiers and Bostonians gathering into a standoff. The soldiers, under attack by the crowd with snowballs, clubs, and other objects, were told to hold their fire, but one of them panicked and shot and then another joined in. Five people were killed.

*The Granary Burying Ground, established in 1660, is the resting place of many Colonial heroes. ©Keroack Photography*

Sam Adams arranged and funded a huge funeral parade for the five victims of the Boston Massacre and paid for the five victims to be buried in his plot in the Granary Burying Ground where he now lies as well. The parade made a big impression both on the British soldiers and on the residents of Boston, Alex said. “Great propaganda!”

That’s just one of many stories waiting to be told at the Granary Burying Ground. Once the very edge of 17th century Boston, this small patch of cemetery is now like a who’s who of the American Revolution. For example, across the grounds from Adams is the tombstone of James Otis, who coined the phrase “Taxation without representation is tyranny.” Otis was one of the great minds behind the Revolution but he suffered from periods of insanity which kept him out of the limelight.

The cemetery is also the final resting place of Paul Revere, John Hancock, the parents of Benjamin Franklin and an estimated 5,000+ other people. We asked Alex how so many people could fit in such a small space and learned that bodies were often buried one on top of the other.

The tour also included a visit to the Old North Church, and strolled through Little Italy, where Alex explained the difference between the two most popular cannoli spots. Along the way, Alex also shared tips on exploring the city, how to learn about free concerts and events at the Boston Common, and a list of her favorite eateries, making us feel a bit like insiders in the city.

DAY 2: My husband and I were joined by his cousins for a leisurely stroll along the Freedom Trail. We stopped to read the signs at spots that grabbed our attention and toured Paul Revere’s home, where we learned that the Wadsworth poem might have been quite different had his dad not anglicized his Huguenot name from Appolos Rivoire to Paul Revere. (Rivoire is a harder name than Revere to rhyme.)

We also spent some time in Faneuil Hall, which was built and gifted to the city of Boston in 1743 by philanthropist Peter Faneuil to serve as a meeting hall and a marketplace. It was where the “Sons of Liberty”— and activists ever since—gathered and gave speeches.

The hall now houses a moving exhibit called “Slavery in Boston” underscoring how much of Peter Faneuil’s and Boston’s wealth came from goods produced by enslaved labor and slave trafficking. The exhibit also looks at the lives of individual enslaved Africans. One of the most touching was the story of Caesar, an enslaved Black boy, “owned” by one of Boston’s richest families, serving them and children including a son who was his age.

Not far from Faneuil Hall is another stirring site, the New England Holocaust Memorial, (www.nehm.org), an outdoor space that takes you by surprise if you’re not expecting it. As we were walking through Carmen Park, I noticed steam rising from between towering plates of glass that line a black granite path. Walking towards it, I began reading quotes from Holocaust survivors etched into the glass and realized that the steam is a reminder of the smokestacks of the crematoriums at the Holocaust death camps. Looking down through the metal grates, I saw small lights that represent the charred embers of those murdered in the gas chambers. Signs told me that the glass towers represent the smokestacks and the Menorah-like lights atop them are symbols of strength and endurance. It was an impressive experience.

On a lighter note, a great spot for recreation or simply a relaxing sit-down is the Rose Kennedy Greenway, (www.rosekennedygreenway.org/). It was built as an over-the-highway park linking the waterfront to the city. It was a great spot to sit and socialize and our visit was enriched by reading the self-guided tour (available on the website), which provided fun information. For example, the dirt removed to make the Greenway possible could fill a stadium to its rim 16 times, and the concrete used to create it is equivalent to laying a sidewalk three feet wide and four feet thick roundtrip from Boston to San Francisco three times It’s amazing to think about that when you’re strolling through the lovely gardens. We also enjoyed the free (ever-changing) contemporary art installations and exhibitions and food trucks.

*The Oyster Bar at the Union Oyster House where Daniel Webster dined* *©Keroack Photography*

For lunch, we chose the Union Oyster House, an attraction in its own right. It’s the city’s oldest restaurant and a National Historic Landmark. The brick line of the Freedom Trail passes right in front of it. More importantly, it serves some of the best seafood in the city in a genuine historic and unpretentious setting. In fact, in 2023, the restaurant earned a spot among the Taste Atlas Top 50 Most Legendary Restaurants in the World.

Our six-person hardwood booth was across from one with a plaque memorializing the one reserved for John F. Kennedy and family when they dined there. We took quite some time to look around after we ate; the restaurant is filled with fascinating memorabilia and its walls are covered with paintings, photos and newspaper clippings about the famous people—from Daniel Webster to Meryl Streep—who have been patrons here over the centuries. My husband and I liked the restaurant so much that we dined there again the next day.

Day 3: Before leaving Boston, we went for one last stroll through the Rose Kennedy Greenway. We stopped to observe a tai chi group and to watch children scrambling to get on their favorite hand-carved animals which included a peregrine falcon, a green sea turtle and imaginary creatures that were chosen from a fun project drawing on the imaginations of local children.

*A harbor cruise offers a lovely perspective on the city.*

We then took an enchanting one-hour narrated Historic Boston Harbor Cruise, where our guide pointed out how much land was created by landfill, including Back Bay, the Seaport and parts of downtown and Logan Airport. In fact, one-sixth of the city is landfill—a process that began in the 1700s. (The cruise and a hop-on/hop-off bus pass we used, were part of an all-inclusive GoCity.com/boston pass that included entry into more than 45 attractions.

*The Langham, Boston combines elegant architecture with modern art and an inviting pool.*

As you might expect, historic hotels abound in Boston. The Omni Parker House is where Longfellow drafted his poem about Paul Revere. The former Boston Police Department headquarters is now the AKA Back Bay Hotel, and a former jail has embraced its past as the Liberty Hotel.

We stayed at The Langham, Boston, a five-star hotel that is just a short walk from the Freedom Trail and the waterfront and is itself a National Historic Monument. Built in 1922, it was home to the Federal Reserve Bank of Boston until 1977. Its banking past lives on in details like the green bank-style lamps, the tweed furnishings, and the lock box-style drawers behind the concierge desk.

It’s also a great choice for art lovers. Two N.C. Wyeth murals commissioned by the bank are still in their original spots and The Grana restaurant, which occupies the former grand hall, still has the Federal Reserve Bank emblem at its center, and portraits of eight Fed presidents grace its walls. The hotel also has an extensive collection of modern art, with a series of videos, cued by QR codes, of the artists explaining their works.

One of the best things about staying at The Langham (LanghamHotels.com/Boston was unwinding in the pool, hot tub and sauna after a day of delightful surprises on the Freedom Trail.

Useful Links:

theFreedomTrail.org; provides great info plus special interest and Freedom Trail tours, apps, and more
NPS.gov/bost/planyourvisit/app.htm: offers a free app with recorded commentary as well as focused apps for Black heritage and more.
CityExperiences.com/boston: offers access to historic harbor cruise, VIP walks and other tours and cruises
GoCity.com/boston: offers an all-inclusive pass that includes entry into more than 45 attractions and historic harbor cruise or bundled admission pass
CityPass.com/Boston: offers a package with discounted admission to a choice of four major attractions

Also, meetboston.com offers information about events, activities, food and lodging.

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© 2024 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Tweet @TravelFeatures. ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Destinations, Hotels & Resorts, US Destinations

Wisconsin’s Elkhart Lake, An Intimate Resort Town with World-Class Motor Sports and A Top-Rated Spa

October 15, 2024 krubin723

*Known for its pure, spring-fed water, great for fishing, swimming and all kinds of water sports, Elkhart Lake spans 292 acres, with a depth of up to 119 feet. ©Geri Bain*

Story and Photos by Geri Bain for Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

“I didn’t know you were into motor sports,” my Midwest friends said when I told them I was going to Elkhart Lake. I’m not, or at least I wasn’t. Before my visit to this popular Wisconsin vacation spot located an hour by car from Milwaukee and Green Bay and 2.5 hours from Chicago, I hadn’t even realized that the town is well known in the road-racing world for its Road America events, which attract spectators and participants from around the world.

For me, the allure was the promise of a relaxing four-day retreat in a friendly, human-scale setting, and this small village of just under 1,000 residents with no chain hotels, eateries, or mega malls with a top-notch spa seemed perfect. I loved that the town was small enough to be easily walkable and proudly preserved its history. A resort town since the late 19th century, its history as a retreat goes back even further. According to local lore, the indigenous Potawatomi attributed rejuvenating powers to the lake’s spring-fed waters.

*The original road race circuit is now on the National Register of Historic Places.* *©Geri Bain*

The town’s story is told in signs, memorabilia and brochures all around town, and discovering it turned out to be part of the fun of being there. Elkhart Lake hit the map in 1873, when an ambitious, forward-thinking landowner persuaded the Milwaukee and Northern Railroad to set its route through the small village. Soon, city dwellers from Chicago, Milwaukee and Green Bay were discovering the natural beauty of the area.

Gambling establishments and speakeasies along with family-friendly hotels, attractions and lake sports sprang up as generations of families began making this their summer spot—a tradition that continues to this day. And even when gambling was taken off the table and roads replaced railroads, the town’s popularity continued to grow.

In 1950, an auto road-racing circuit was laid out that twisted through the town and around the surrounding countryside. That original course is now on the National Register of Historic Places and signs mark key locations along the way. As I explored the town, I was surprised at how sharp some of the turns were and found it amazing to imagine these being taken at high speeds with spectators lining the roads. Road racing was a risky sport and in a few years, the federal government made racing on public highways illegal. The sport, as we know, didn’t die. The races simply moved to a handful of private courses like Road America, which opened in Elkhart Lake in 1955. It still ranks among the world’s fastest permanent road racing tracks.

*Road America’s off-road driving experience was an adrenaline-pumping adventure. ©Geri Bain*

The self-proclaimed “America’s National Park of Speed, Road America is known for its 14-turn, 4.048 mile road course and its one-mile Motorplex track. You don’t have to be a racing aficionado to enjoy Road America. On the day I visited, there were no official races, but it was thrilling to watch drivers zip around the course. The venue also offers scheduled times when visitors can take their own cars for a spin around the iconic four-mile track, or bicycle, walk or run the track. There are also skill-building driving classes for teens, winter and performance driving.

I signed up for their off-road UTV (Utility Terrain Vehicle) Driving Experience. After a brief orientation, the group I was assigned to set off on a journey that was terrifying at first, and then exhilarating as our rugged vehicles bounded over deep gulleys and bounced off boulders and logs. As my confidence grew, I began eagerly seeking out the steepest parts of the gulleys to splash through. (roadamerica.com)

*The “secret bar” at Siebkens Resort is like a museum of road race personalities and history. ©Geri Bain*

I found myself being increasingly attuned to the car culture of Elkhart Lake, from the menu items like P.A.M.’s “hard left burger” and of the town’s craft brewery, the SwitchGear Brewing Co, to special events like the Concours d’Elegance pre-race parade of exotic race and sports cars through the village streets. With more time, I would have visited the Throttlestop Museum (throttlestopmuseum.com), which displays historic motorcycles and vintage, rare and restored limited edition automobiles.

Car culture especially permeates the Stop-Inn Tavern (siebkens.com/dine/stop-inn-tavern/) which calls itself “the best bar on the racing circuit.” Its walls are a living museum of road racing, and on the nights I stopped by, the bar was lively with folks talking about their Road America experiences. If you go, be sure to find your way to the “secret bar”. It’s an intimate corner of the more upscale P.A.M.’s restaurant and a wonderful place to immerse yourself in historic road race photos and memorabilia.

Driving from Milwaukee Airport to the town, I noted the endless pastures and farms. Small wonder that the town’s restaurants feature so many local ingredients in their dishes. Just outside town, Henning’s Wisconsin Cheese (henningscheese.com) sources from local dairies to produce award winning cheddars, Colby and specialty items like mango fire and tomato basil cheddar. It’s also a great place to sample Wisconsin’s famed squeaky cheese, bite size pieces of fresh, unaged cheese that squeak when you bite into them. Visitors can watch a video, explore their museum to see how cheese was traditionally made, and watch its factory in action through viewing windows before sampling in the shop. While I didn’t have a chance to visit in person, I can vouch for their cheeses, which are sold around town. I loved them so much, I bought some to take home.

Local ingredients also make the town’s restaurants stand out. Lake Street Cafe (lakestreetcafe.com), on the Wine Spectator “Best of” Award of Excellence list, adds creative touches to the Midwest’s best. I especially loved their fennel salad, which included arugula, toasted cashews, parmesan, and a lemon dijon vinaigrette. And almost every restaurant offers its version of a local mainstay, the Fish Fry.

Not to be missed, the family owned Gessert’s Ice Cream and Confectionary shop (gessertsicecream.com) has been bringing smiles to the faces of kids of all ages since the mid 1920’s. And while the ice cream flavors and candies it sells have been updated, the ice cream parlor looks much as it did a century ago. It’s a visual as well as a taste treat.

*Two Fish Gallery has a fanciful outdoor sculpture garden where turtles and fish swim through the greenery*. *©Geri Bain*

The well-preserved historic buildings that house the town’s shops and eateries give the town a unique sense of place, while one-of-a-kind jewelry, crafts and clothing by local designers and friendly storekeepers make it a fun place to shop.

Carrying its own line of clothing and hats, including a paint-your-own-cap kit, the STBF (Small Town Big Family) Shop (https://www.facebook.com/STBFShop) was full of tempting things to buy. Vintage Elkhart Lake (vintageelkhartlake.com) owned by an award-winning certified sommelier, has attractive arrays of Wisconsin and international wines as well as artisan foods, cheeses and chocolates. And the Paddock Shop at Road America (shop.roadamerica.com) is a great place to pick up one-of-a-kind race-themed products from dangling earrings in the shape of the Road America track to themed barware and clothing.

One of my favorite shops was Two Fish Gallery (twofishgallery.net). Its outdoor garden is punctuated with quirky ceramics and sculptures. Here, giant pencils pose among the shrubbery and colorful ceramic fish and turtles seem to swim through the flowers and greenery. Inside, fanciful pottery by local artist Patrick Robinson along with paintings, jewelry and other quality crafts make for unique gifts. And if your timing is right, you might be lucky enough to be able to join a pottery workshop, as I did. Working with Patrick was a rare opportunity not only to try my hand at something new, but to get to know a fascinating person and gain insights into the creative process. I’ll never look at pottery the same way again.

*The Shore Club Wisconsin’s Tiki Bar is one of several lakeside bars.*
*©Geri Bain*

Geologically, this region is a Kettle Moraine, formed when retreating glaciers left finger-like lines of debris called moraines. The 1,200 mile Ice Age Trail, a National Scenic Trail that traverses the state, passes along the edge of town and Kettle Moraine State Forest (dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/parks/kmn) lies about 25 minutes from town. Hiking through the woods on a guided walk, I learned to spot the “kames,” conical hills comprised of compressed glacial debris left behind as the ancient glaciers retreated, and “kettles”, lakes and depressions in the land created in areas where huge chunks of glacial ice melted.

Elkhart Lake, an amazing 119 feet deep, is the fourth deepest of these kettle lakes in the state and its spring-fed waters keep it pristine and clear. Here, fishing is a year-round sport, and in summer the lake comes alive with kayaks, canoes, and motorized boats. Happily for those who prize quiet, boats must observe no-wake hours from 7:30 p.m. to 10 a.m. and on Sundays during the summer.

I came in the early spring, just before the town shifted its attention towards the lake. But walking by the fire-pits, where summer vacationers would soon be making s’mores, and along the yet-to-open lakeside bars and bandstands that soon would be filled with people dancing to live music, it was easy to imagine how fun it could be to go bar-hopping in season.

*Breathing in the ionized salt at Aspira Spa’s Salt Room felt healthy for my skin and my lungs. ©Geri Bain*

On my last day, I spent a wonderful morning at the Aspira Spa, located at the Osthoff Resort (osthoff.com/aspira-spa/). Ranked among the nation’s top 100 by Spas of America, the spa offers a wide range of customizable therapies. Some use fresh sprigs from native cedar trees and pristine water from the lake. I opted for one that combined aromatherapy with CBD oil, which fully unkinked my travel-tense muscles. I also opted for a 45-minute Salt Room session that cleared my allergy-clogged sinuses. A final soak in the whirlpool followed by a cool shower left me feeling relaxed and energized.

Elkhart Lake has three resorts and during my stay, I dined at and explored each of them. All have private lakefront beaches, varied dining options, and both traditional hotel and apartment-style accommodations.

The four-diamond Osthoff Resort is the largest resort on Elkhart Lake and has the most amenities, including Aspira Spa, cooking and cocktail classes, indoor and outdoor pools, and an array of boat and bike rentals and pontoon boat cruises © Geri Bain

The Osthoff Resort (osthoff.com), where I stayed, is the largest and has the most amenities. It’s an AAA Four Diamond resort, and home to Aspira Spa, cooking and cocktail classes, indoor and outdoor pools, and an array of boat and bike rentals as well as pontoon boat cruises. There’s also a fitness center, sauna and hot tub that are open 24/7. The resort has three restaurants, the Concourse Restaurant, with a lovely outdoor patio, Otto’s, with a traditional Friday fish fry along with great breakfasts; my favorite was an omelette with mushroom, onions, bacon and Wisconsin cheddar atop a potato pancake. And for lovely sunsets and lively evenings, head to the Elk Room Lounge.

More intimate and casual, The Shore Club Wisconsin (shoreclubwisconsin.com) has indoor and outdoor pools, a hot tub, health center and campfire area. The Social, an atmospheric speakeasy, has outdoor deck seating overlooking the lake, fun menu with items like fried tempura cheesecake. and live jazz on summer weekends. The Tiki Bar also has live music. And The Theater presents improv comedy, music and other live entertainment.

Siebkens Resort (siebkens.com) is a landmark in its own right with a small, antique-filled lobby. It has an outdoor pool and is home to the Stop-Inn Tavern, an outdoor bandstand with live music in the summer, P.A.M.s Dining Room and Cocktail Bar, and Sissy’s, for to-go treats like locally made gelato and cold-brew coffee.

Elkhart Lake turned out to be just the change of pace and relaxing getaway I was seeking. While it’s just under two hours by plane from New York, I felt I had traveled far from my everyday life.

For more information, visit elkhartlake.com

_______________________

© 2024 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info.Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Tweet @TravelFeatures. ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Outdoors Adventures, Road Trip, See America, US Destinations

California Pacific Highway 1 Roadtrip Finishes in Redondo Beach

July 23, 2024 krubin723

*The Pacific Highway 1 brings you to spectacular sights of Big Sur, with a view of the Bixby Creek Bridge © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

By Karen Rubin with Eric Leiberman, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Our adventure down California’s famous (and fragile) Pacific Highway 1 – rightly considered one of the most scenic byways in the country – which began in San Francisco comes to an end in Redondo Beach.

You don’t have to go far outside of San Francisco for the incredible coastal scenes to come into view, as well as interesting, funky and fun beachtowns, like Santa Cruz (with its Coney-Island-ish amusement park on the beach) and Capitola (really scenic, where we stop to stroll), before coming into Monterey for our first night.

*You don’t have to drive far out of San Francisco to see spectacular views along California’s Pacific Highway 1 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Driving the famous (and fragile) California’s Pacific Highway 1, one of the most scenic byways in the country You don’t have to drive far out of San Francisco to see spectacular views along California’s Pacific Highway 1 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

*Capitola, along Pacific Highway 1 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Monterey was made famous by John Steinbeck’s “Cannery Row” and now with a world renowned Aquarium; I love taking the self-guided history walk and visiting the history museum and Customs House).

*Monterey, made famous in John Steinbeck’s “Cannery Row” © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

We follow the Pacific Highway 1 as it hugs the cliffs that get ever more dramatic as we come into Big Sur. We pull over frequently to take in those breathtaking views that look like the edge of the Continent just fell into the ocean.

*The spectacular view from the pull-off at Bixby Creek Bridge on Pacific Highway 1 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

*Bixby Creek Bridge on Pacific Highway 1 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

We come the Bixby Creek Bridge. Big Sur’s answer to the Golden Gate Bridge, it is a incredibly dramatic sight that actually competes for its man-made achievement with the spectacular scenes that nature has made. Completed in 1932 for $200,000 (a bargain at $4.6 million in 2024 dollars), the concrete span is one of the highest bridges of its kind in the world, soaring 260 feet from the steep canyon carved by Bixby Creek. It is awesome to contemplate how this structure was even constructed and to learn that the bridge was completed before the road. There are a few viewing spots you can pull off before the bridge going south (and a short hike you can take for closer viewing) and another about a mile south looking back at it.

We get another, completely different perspective of the Bixby Creek bridge on the way back up to Monterey (the route to go south to Cambria because the Pacific Highway is closed off in sections), from the other side of the road.

Not much further, we see the Big Creek Bridge, which looks similar, but is not as dramatic in its setting.

*Hiking Tan BarkTrail in the Julia Pfeiffer state park © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

*The scenic walk to Partington Cove and the McWay Falls © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

We spend a couple of days hiking and exploring in the Big Sur (thoroughly enjoyed hiking the Tan Bark Trail in the Julia Pfeiffer state park and then, across the road, a fantastic walk to McWay Falls, an 80 ft waterfall flowing straight into the ocean) in Partington Cove, overnighting at the utterly enchanting, historic Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn (www.deejens.org, 831-667-2377), so we get to see an amazing sunset and hear the bellowing chorus of elephant seals at the Seal Beach overlook (I wonder to myself whether they purposely form a chorus or are they competing for attention.) We drive almost as far south as we can on the Pacific Highway before it is closed to traffic.

*Our rustic, cozy lodge at the historic Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

*The restaurant at the historic Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

To continue south, we have to backtrack to Monterey, then drive inland and three hours south on Highway 101 to come into Cambria, where we thrill to see the spectacular Hearst Castle, the elephant seal rookery at Piedras Blancas, Moonstone Beach and Ragged Point (at the southern tip of Big Sur).

*Pismo Beach, one of the funky beachtowns along the Pacific Highway 1 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

After Cambria, we follow the Highway along the coast – stopping in fun beachtowns including Morro Bay, Cayucos (which is on the Whale Trail), Pismo Beach (retro 1950s/1960s vibe, vintage Airstreams on the pier that serves as snack bar and visitors center), before slipping back inland. Here, we drive through California’s rich farmland and discover some astonishing places: Los Alamos (not the New Mexico atomic testing place, but this old-timey, 1880s town that has a Michelin-rated restaurant, a sensational saloon/hotel that looks like a movie set for a Western that gives you this overall surreal sensation of not knowing where or when you are).

*The 1880 Union Hotel, Los Alamos,California © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The 1880 Union Hotel, Los Alamos “On this site, the original 1880 Union Hotel served as office and Wells, Fargo & Company’s stagecoach stop. It was destroyed by fire in 1893, reconstructed and restored in 1915, service stagecoach and early railroad passengers… It currently is a bed & breakfast and dining establishing.” Once astonishing is to realize that the building is still actually in use – it makes you smile, as if you are in on the joke. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We continue on to Solvang in the Santa Ynez Valley, another surreal experience that makes you think you have suddenly been transported to Denmark (too weird after the Wild West vibe of Los Alamos and the ‘50s beach vibe of Pismo Beach – the town was founded in 1911 by three Danish immigrants, and somehow, have managed to keep the entire town architecturally and culturally Danish).

*Stopping into Solvang feels like you stepped into a Danish village Bridge © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Then going back onto the coastal highway to stop at Santa Barbara which has fantastic nightlife – restaurants, music venues – they close down the main street for pedestrians and the music just spills into the street. We pass a movie theater where the Santa Barbara International Film Festival is underway, and find a live Beatles tribute band even in the tiny vegetarian restaurant we happen into, then, on the walk back, wander into a pub where the jazz is sensational, and a brewery featuring a hometown-rock band-made-good. In the morning, we find the festive recreation path along the beach,before continuing on to our final stop on our Pacific Highway roadtrip, Redondo Beach.

*Santa Barbara on the Pacific Highway 1 has sensational nightlife © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

*The beachside recreational path in Santa Barbara on the Pacific Highway 1 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina

Redondo Beach is this laid back beach town – a place where (I suspect) they get more vacation home/condo owners from Los Angeles than transient visitors, so it feels like a community.

Our base is the Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina, a casual yet sophisticated city-style resort hotel decorated in beach-y colors and motif, decorated with stunning photographs of nature and sealife – as comfortable for a corporate retreat or wedding as for a weekend beach getaway.

We arrive at the Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina in the night and flop down in a stunning and spacious suite, then go to explore Frenchman’s Wharf across the boulevard from the resort.

*A suite at the Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina is surrounded by views of the Pacific Ocean and the Palos Verdes Hills and 346 spacious guest rooms, 8 suites and a Presidential Suite. The vibe is coastal-chic, with custom hardwood finishes, fine furnishings, and colors that evoke the water and sand. Rooms have private balcony with views of the pool, marina and ocean. The rooms also equipped with in-room safe and mini refrigerator. Accessible rooms are available.

*The outdoor pool at the Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

A true resort, the Sonesta Redondo Beach offers a heated outdoor pool and tennis court (lights for night play, free to use; rackets and balls available) on the recreation deck, a fully-equipped fitness center (open 24 hours; there are plans to offer massage therapy), rental bikes ($20/two hours; $30/day, helmet and lock provided), and on-site dining at SOL (made-to-order omelet station for breakfast, Asian/American fusion for dinner) and the Harbor Bar & Bistro (local favorites and signature cocktails in a hip atmosphere, for lunch and dinner) and being a luxury hotel, in-room dining is also available. It also offers meeting rooms and a ballroom that can accommodate up to 500, making it one of the largest facilities in the area. It even has a laundry available for guest use. The resort also has its own garage for valet and self-parking.

This is the beach vacation portion of our Pacific Highway 1 trip that had taken us along the Big Sur cliffs and forests, the rocky beaches and coves of Cambria and extraordinary cultural, historical and natural attractions of Monterey and San Simeon.

Now we are level with the ocean – the surf pounding with dramatic waves that so entice surfers.

*The Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina is across the boulevard from the Pier, the beach and recreational path© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

*The Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina is across the boulevard from the beach and recreational path © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

*Biking the Redondo Beach recreational path © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com*

The next morning, after breakfast in its SOL restaurant, I take out take out one of the resort’s rental bikes and bike the 12 miles along the recreational path along the beach up to Venice Beach – it is so colorful and fun and the ride is really beautiful with the beach on one side, and homes and shops on the other (excellent rest facilities along the way).

Nearby attractions include: Redondo Beach Pier and International Boardwalk, Seaside Lagoon, Riviera Village, Hermosa Beach, Del Amo Fashion Center, SoFi Stadium, Kia Forum, Intuit Dome, Dignity Health Sports Park, Manhattan Beach Village shopping Center, The Point on Pacific Coast Highway in El Segundo, Porsche Experience Center.

The Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina is also just a short drive (like 30 minutes) to Los Angeles International Airport.

Sonesta Redondo Beach & Marina, 300 N. Harbor Drive, Redondo Beach, CA 90277, 310-318-8888, sonesta.com/redondobeach.

More trip planning help: https://highway1roadtrip.com/ and https://www.visitcalifornia.com/

CAMBRIA IS GREAT BASE FOR CALIFORNIA PACIFIC HIGHWAY 1 ROADTRIP

_______________________

Going Places, Far & Near

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