Category Archives: Nomadic Life

Baby’s First Wild Camping adVANture!

Wild camping at Mt. Hood, Oregon on our first adVANture with our baby © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Sarah Falter and Eric Leiberman, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

We embarked on our one-way, five-night trip from San Francisco to Seattle in a rented camper van with only vague goals regarding where we’d venture during the day and sleep at night. This is our typical travel mojo but now we had a new accompaniment–our two-month old baby.

The Moterra campervan drives and parks like an SUV © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Our van rental was through Moterra Campervans, a company we had used once before to explore California, Nevada, and Utah national parks on a one-week pre-parenthood excursion. We were already familiar with the camper van specs, how comfortable it is to drive, and all of its convenient amenities. The unknown for this trip, of course, was doing it all with an infant. (See: AD-VAN-TURING, NEWEST TRAVEL TREND)

Our friends with kids thought it was an ambitious proposition to go on such an adventurous trip with a newborn, especially as first time parents. But, we were confident in our abilities to navigate whatever may come our way. And, more importantly, we are fortunate to have a very patient and happy baby, who rose to the adVANture challenge, enduring hours-long driving stretches secured in the back seat in his rear-facing car seat (staff will explain how to properly install), and sleeping through the night in his pack ‘n play at the foot of our bed. 

A quick note on van tripping with a baby: packing is much easier for road trips vs flights! The Moterra van had plenty of shelving and trunk space for our belongings, and we found we were much more organized using packing cubes to differentiate baby’s day/night clothes (bring 2x what you think you need), accessories, toys. We also packed soap to handwash clothes as needed.

The Moterra campervan is like a mobile AirBnB © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The luxury Mercedes-Benz Sprinter Van we rented from Moterra (gomoterra.com) was the Pop-Top Classic, which sleeps up to four and seats five. The van has solar-powered central heat (perfect for nighttime temperature control for baby), and is outfitted with a fully stocked galley including a mini-refrigerator, camping stove, cooking tools, French press coffee maker, dining ware, cleaning supplies; and household must-haves including a portable table and chairs, portable toilet, outdoor shower, bed linens, towels. If you prefer, you can have Moterra pre-stock the galley with groceries (if you don’t want to stop off at a grocery yourself).

You can also take advantage of their concierge service and pre-planned itineraries, which are all-inclusive packages with a day-by-day personalized itinerary, pre-booked campgrounds, organized activities, and a dedicated Trip Expert (especially helpful if your trip includes national parks, many of which now require reservations and are strict about not allowing wild camping).  Moterra also allows for one-way rentals (and pets!). It was also comforting to know that Moterra has a 24-hour helpline had we encountered any difficulty.

A note about driving – if you have never driven a camper van and worry about how it handles, we can testify that these 19-foot long vehicles feel like a typical SUV. They also have added safety features such as blind spot detection/alarm, backup camera, and Apple car play (wireless). In addition, the van is equipped with an inverter so you can charge laptops and devices via its solar battery vs the car battery as needed.

We set out on our trip loosely planning to (wild) camp near Mt. Shasta for our first night (this was strategic that day because temperatures in California were high with fires in the far distances, and the elevation of Mt. Shasta promised cooler temps). 

Hiking to the gorgeous Hedge Creek Falls © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We arrived at Shasta-Trinity National Forest in Northern California, close to the Oregon border, by mid-afternoon day one. We selected Hedge Creek Falls to hike with the baby – a beautiful but short/manageable trail that leads to a small waterfall (a supportive baby carrier is a must– we use the Ergobaby Omni Breeze). We were treated with a mountain ice run-off water fountain at the trailhead, and delightedly filled our water bottles. 

Hiking to the gorgeous Hedge Creek Falls © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

As sunset drew closer we decided to head to the town of Mt. Shasta for a meal (Yaks Shack at 401 N. Mt. Shasta Blvd was solid). Then we joined forces with two friends also camping in the area, and ventured up Everitt Memorial Hwy towards the John Everitt Memorial Vista Point for a place to overnight – a wild-camping location we selected using the  I-Overlander app (very helpful for navigating free and legal campsites). 

 Our wild camping site at John Everitt Memorial Vista Point © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We were forced to drive higher and higher on the winding road, limited by the large space our two vans required. Ultimately, we did find a safe spot with a view of the last rays of sunset, but had we not (in the worst case scenario), we would have pulled into a standard campground nearby for a small $20 fee. 

Wild camping on Mt. Shasta © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The next morning we used our camping stove to whip up egg burritos and fresh coffee. Then we spent a couple hours exploring Mt. Shasta town–very cute with quaint cafes, juice bars, burger joints and gorgeous views of Mt. Shasta from the main road. 

Walking the Lake Siskiyou Trail,  Mt. Shasta © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We took a small nature walk nearby at Lake Siskiyou Trail to stretch our legs before our long-ish (4 hour) drive to Bend, Oregon.

Pro tip on road-tripping with a baby: budget at least 50% extra time for your drives, as the baby needs lots of breaks for feeds, diaper changes, cuddles, etc. You can, however, choose really beautiful spots for these tasks and have lots of little snacks while doing it! It almost feels like hanging out on the front porch or backyard of your own home.

Bend, Oregon is an activity-lovers dream. It is known for the gorgeous Deschutes River which runs right through its downtown. The many parks, swimming areas, river hikes, mountain biking trails, and canoeing/kayaking/tubing/paddleboarding spots equate to endless fun. And to top off your day there are many breweries and downright fabulous restaurants to try downtown. We so loved the youthful, active, and family-friendly energy we found there. The town feels like a delightful mix of Austin, Texas and Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

Enjoying the scene in Bend, Oregon © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We explored Rimrock Trailhead (18768 State Hwy 372), a beautiful hiking/biking area with many trails, some of which lead right to the Deschutes River (Eric couldn’t resist a mid-hike swim). We didn’t bring our bikes this trip as our baby is much too young to ride along, but if you do decide to bring bikes on your trip, Moterra has optional racks which can be used for bikes, skis, surfboards.

Walking the Rimrock Trail to the Deschutes River, Bend, OR © Nick Kruge/goingplacesfarandnear.com

A food highlight in Bend was definitely Wild Rose restaurant (150 NW Oregon Ave.), serving mind blowing Thai food, reasonably priced for the quality and quantity. We also enjoyed Bend Brewing Company (1019 NW Brooks St.) with its many beer offerings plus live music overlooking the river.

Wild camping in the Moterra campervan outside of Bend, Oregon © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

When it was time to sleep, we parked our van at a free campsite just outside of town near Phil’s Trailhead. Our son loved being outside until bedtime, so we’d bop him around and take in the sunset views before setting up his pack ‘n play and zipping him up in his sleep sack.

After two lovely days in Bend we buckled up and drove north to Hood River, Oregon (an hour east of Portland). We grabbed sandwiches at Golden Goods Sandwich and Bake Shop (111 Oak St.) and headed to the gorgeous Wahclella Falls Trail (approximately 2 mile hike) where Eric (for whom there is no water feature he doesn’t take advantage of) swam at the mouth of the (very cold) waterfall. Sarah’s sister, Hannah, joined for this leg of the trip (the van comfortably fit 3 adults and one baby). 

Eric can’t resist a swim at Wahclella Falls © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Night began to fall so we hopped in our van in search of a comfy site. We ultimately found a wild camping spot on Riordan Hill Drive on the Hood River. We whipped out our camping stove and made ourselves pasta with spinach and sausage. Its always extra satisfying to eat a hearty meal in such a remote location. The wind was pretty intense up on Riordan Hill Drive but we all made it safely through the night, and baby slept right through the natural white noise. 

A wild camping spot on Riordan Hill Drive on the Hood River © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

In the morning we hiked around the area a bit and then headed to Hood River town. A cute area with loads of restaurants and shops, and the added bonus of the Hood River Waterfront Park (650 Portway Ave.), a popular place for kitesurfing and windsurfing, which are super fun to watch.

Hood River is popular and we were there on a beautiful Friday, so it was crowded. We realized how much we appreciated another feature of the Moterra camper van – its size. While it is often hard to find parking for a big RV especially in urban places, the Moterra is not much bigger than an SUV and fits in regular parking spots. The nearby convenience of the van wherever we went was also such a great asset when traveling with a baby–we were never out of diapering supplies or outfit changes after blow-outs.

While every child is different, we felt one of the reasons our baby did so well on this trip was because he had constant enriching stimulation and fresh air. He really loved the natural entertainment of it all, and slept better than ever at night because of it (we think).  

We rounded out our trip with dinner in Portland (Bluto’s restaurant is worth a visit), and camping close to downtown Seattle at Seward Park. 

The camper van experience is wonderful, and if you factor in not having to pay for flights, hotels, or cabs, plus the convenience, amenities, and the unique and memorable experience, it is a value proposition. All in all the Moterra experience works out to about $350/night, but varies with season. You will also pay for gas, insurance, and a cleaning fee.

We returned the van to Moterra’s conveniently located warehouse near Seattle Airport (they have other locations near airports in Salt Lake City, Las Vegas, San Francisco, Jackson Hole, Whitefish, Montana, and have a new hub in Portland, Maine, for adventures in Northern New England and Eastern Canada). We did a one-way trip in order to spend quality (baby) time with family in the Seattle area and flew home via Southwest (thanks to their generous checked-bag policy) the following week (baby’s first airplane flight!).

Moterra campervans are available in three custom Sprinter diesel models: the Pop-Top Classic sleeps 4 and seats 5 and is best for those who want maximum floor space and storage; the Pop-Top Plus sleeps 4 and seats 8, and is best for larger groups; the High Roof sleeps 2 and seats 6, and is best for couples who want the luxury of an indoor shower. The 4-wheel-drive campervans are 19 feet in length, making them both easy to maneuver and off-road capable. All Moterra Campervans feature a full kitchen (stove, sink and fridge), porta-potty toilet, thermostat heater and solar electric system and water supply. The campervan rentals are also pet friendly.

Parking the Moterra campervan at the Bailey Cove Trailhead © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Co-Founders Gabe Aufderheide, Trevor James and Kevin Deneen bring skills and experience including 20-plus years designing high-end outdoor adventures and venture capital:

Kevin Deneen, Co-Founder, CEO, spent a decade in venture capital supporting startups innovating to make the energy and industrial ecosystems more sustainable. Most recently, he was part of the founding investment team at SE Ventures.

Trevor Jame, Co-Founder, COO,criss-crossed the globe for a decade, developing and guiding custom vacations for discerning clients. Through his work with one of the world’s top active travel companies, he developed a deep and abiding passion for connecting people with new destinations, cultures and encounters.

Gabe Aufderheide,Co-Founder, CRO, has over 10 years of experience guiding, designing, and customizing specialty travel across the globe.

Moterra CamperVans, 1565 W. Berger Ln., Jackson, Wyoming, 307-200-7220, email [email protected], gomoterra.com

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© 2024 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Tweet @TravelFeatures. ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures 

Dispatch 5 From Living the Nomadic Life, a Global Odyssey: Australia-New Zealand-Chile

Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Eric Leiberman and Sarah Falter, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Eric and Sarah are on a 6-month around-the-world sabbatical, joining a huge movement of young people who are choosing to live the nomadic life (at least for a time) and travel or work remotely, becoming immersed in local life and culture. They are filing these dispatches periodically. They previously reported about their adventures in MexicoSouth Korea, VietnamMalaysia and Cambodia and Indonesia. Here’s their dispatch #5 from the Southern Hemisphere: Australia, New Zealand, Chile.

AUSTRALIA Melbourne

We took an overnight flight Bali → Melbourne (actually we flew separately though our flights were minutes apart–cheaper!). Food costs in Australia brought us straight back to SF living, at >$20/meal, but we managed to find  $1 oysters our budget can always accommodate!

In the colder Melbourne climate, Sarah expanded her small wardrobe when she realized for the first time she doesn’t just fit into Eric’s tops, she fits into his pants too! A whole new world. Feeling fresh in Eric’s khakis, we spent our few days there wandering hipster neighborhoods, catching an AFL game, exploring a winter food fest (including fake snow), and laughing our arses off at a comedy show (we def missed some local references, but Sarah howled when they mentioned anything Bravo-related). We reckon it was a pretty good time. 

One of Melbourne’s hipster neighborhoods © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Watching an Australian Football League game (Australia’s own version of football, invented in Melbourne) in Melbourne © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Can’t leave Australia without seeing an actual koala © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

NEW ZEALAND Lake Hawea, Wanaka

We arrived in New Zealand just in time for winter holidays, which meant that our serendipitous trip planning had met its match. When we began our search for an accommodation just three days before arriving, we knew we’d made a mistake – everything was booked solid. One shout out to friends and we were connected with Jack & Cass – our saviors! Jack and Cass showed us their beautiful town of Lake Hawea, South Island, where we hiked around, marveled at views of the humongous lake, drank flat whites in the morning and craft beers in the evening, and got real local watching the All Blacks (rugby) at a local pub.

Lake Hawea, Wanaka, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Lake Hawea, Wanaka, New Zealand © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Meeting up with friends in Lake Hawea, Wanaka, New Zealand © goingplacesfarandnear.com

At the Mount Iron Track, we got some gorgeous views of South Island mountains, lakes and ski fields 🙂 Did ya’ll know that the only native land mammal in NZ is the bat? Everything else came with the humans…wild. And still to this day, there are no big scary predators or poisonous snakes in all of NZ…paradise. And did we mention the public bathrooms everywhere are beautiful and spotless!? Again, huge shout out to Jack & Cass for showing us their home and such a good time. It was a massive highlight of our whole trip!

Cardrona, Remarkables

Skiing in summer (or actually, our summer, their winter!) was a huge bucket list item. So to round-out our time on the South Island, we hit the slopes at Cardrona ski field with lots of borrowed gear and some thrift store finds Eric couldn’t resist ($8 for a helmet, goggles & gloves?!). It was basically a white-out all day on slippery ice, but Sarah only fell once, whined twice, and we were truly stoked to have the chance to ski on this sabbatical.

Skiing Cardrona in New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Skiing Cardrona in New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

When the opportunity came about to ski again at Remarkables a few days later (about an hour south near Queenstown), Eric jumped at it and lucked out with a bluebird day. Sarah audibled and jumped at a local jewelry-making class.

Skiing Remarkables, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 
Skiing Remarkables, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 
Making my own ring in jewelry-making class © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Queenstown

We caught a flight from Queenstown → Auckland, but squeezed in time to explore this charming, twinkly-light town right on the lake. Our Airbnb gave us ghost vibes, so we skipped about town as much as the frigid temps would allow. Notably, we nommed some delicious (and massive) fish n’ chips, and washed it down with fried kiwi for dessert (!!).

Queenstown, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Queenstown, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Queenstown, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Van Life – Coromandel Peninsula

We zipped up to North Island to begin our week-long van life extravaganza. We hit the road after stocking up on pb&j, chips & craft beer. First stop: Coromandel Peninsula. We were treated to neon greenery, the salty ocean, and cool fog (but thankfully little rain despite the forecast!). Also, no road trip is complete without Taco Bell, and Eric wants everyone to know that TB in NZ is unparalleled – perfectly crispy tortilla, succulent pulled pork & it weighed approx. 1KG. Watch out, San Francisco burritos..

We zipped up to North Island to begin our week-long van life extravaganza © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Van Life – Rotorua, Taupo

We continued south in the van, coming to find that NZ is bubbling with thermal activity– especially in Rotorua & Taupo. Geothermal steam oozes from ponds at local parks and Eric veered off the road for any and all opportunity to hop in a thermal bath – his favorite being the Hot N’ Cold river where two rivers converge (one piping hot, one ice cold, as the name suggests). It was his dream come true – a natural version of a hot tub and cold plunge!

Hot N’ Cold River, Rotorua, New Zealand © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Hot N’ Cold River, Rotorua, New Zealand © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Rotorua, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Rotorua, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Rotorua, New Zealand © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Our campsite in this region was chosen for us when we got our van thoroughly stuck in the mud. Thankfully a lovely Kiwi helped us MacGyver a way out in the morning:) Sarah also tried mountain biking here for the first time, and basically screamed the entire way down.

Taupo, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Mountain biking, Taupo, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Mountain biking, Taupo, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Taupo, New Zealand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

CHILE Santiago, Valparaiso

The direct flight from Auckland → Santiago, being loosely in the direction of home (California), was what ultimately led to the decision of concluding our adventure in South America. We touched down in Santiago and immediately had to gear our stomachs up for cream-sauce & mayo-covered-everything (Eric was ready). Sarah’s dad, Joel, joined us for the Chile leg, and we spent the first couple days at parks, drinking pisco sours, and consuming “completos” (local version of a hot dog).

Santiago, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Santiago, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Eric also squeezed in one more day on the slopes of Valle Nevado (ya know, because he had to maximize the return on the thrift store ski gear he picked up in NZ). Then we scooped up a rental car and drove west to Valparaiso, a graffiti-filled port town. We wanted to love Valparaiso, but lots of warnings of crime plus stray dogs and their doodoo on every inch of the street left us feeling a tiny bit meh. Joel did find a really cool hat at the market though——->

Happy with their hats from the Valparaiso market © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Skiing at Valle Nevado, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Valparaiso, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 
Valparaiso, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 
Valparaiso, Chile © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Valparaiso, Chile © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Valparaiso, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Casablanca, Maipo

We continued on with a stop in Casablanca (wine country) where we sipped some delicious (and inexpensive) vino, ate pizza, and slept in a tiny house overlooking vineyards. We loved the much more chill and less elitist vibes of the wineries we visited (compared to Northern California).

Casablanca, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 
Casablanca, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 
Casablanca, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 
Casablanca, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 

And to round-out the road trip, we visited the mountains of San Jose de Maipo. We stocked up on food and took the hosts 4×4 van up the steep and rocky road to our Airbnb. The cute cabin had one furnace, so Eric and Joel got to practice the manly skill of fire building 24/7, and we all slept in four layers of clothing. We spent the days cooking meals and going for lots of walks with mountain views (the neighbor’s sweet dog accompanied us wherever we went).

Atacama Desert

Last stop in Chile: The Atacama Desert, the driest and one of the highest deserts in the world. Lots to see in this vast dryland, which often felt like another planet – salt flats, sand dunes, lagoons with flamingos (did you know flamingos are born white, and their diet of exclusively sea monkeys turns them pink!?), multicolored canyons & geothermal springs.

Flamingoes, Atacama Desert, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Lagoon, Atacama Desert, © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Atacama Desert, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Atacama Desert, Chile © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Atacama Desert, © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

At one point we were locked out of our car in the middle of the desert, but thankfully we are small humans and were able to climb in through the trunk back to mobile safety. After the panic subsided we were treated to a herd of llamas trekking alongside our car for 30 minutes. This desert oasis has an added bonus– a Death-Valley-meets-Albuquerque boho-chic little town called San Pedro de Atacama. Lots of funky cool souvenir shops and live music to check out.

San Pedro de Atacama © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
San Pedro de Atacama © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com
San Pedro de Atacama © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Now off to Peru and Ecuador for trekking and wildlife viewing, the grand finale of our six-month odyssey.

See also:

DISPATCH 1 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: MEXICO

DISPATCH 2 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: SOUTH KOREA TO VIETNAM

DISPATCH 3 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: MALAYSIA TO CAMBODIA

DISPATCH 4 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: INDONESIA

DISPATCH 5 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: AUSTRALIA-NEW ZEALAND-CHILE

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© 2022 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.comwww.huffingtonpost.com/author/karen-rubin, and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to [email protected]. Tweet @TravelFeatures. ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Dispatch from Living the Nomadic Life, A Global Odyssey: Indonesia

Sunrise trek to Mount Ijen in far east Java. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Eric Leiberman and Sarah Falter, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Eric and Sarah are on a 6-month around-the-world sabbatical, joining a huge movement of young people who are choosing to live the nomadic life (at least for a time) and travel or work remotely, becoming immersed in local life and culture. They are filing these dispatches periodically. They previously reported about their adventures in MexicoSouth Korea, Vietnam, Malaysia and Cambodia. Here’s their dispatch (#4) from Indonesia:

Oddly enough, we write this from basically our last day of summer, as we wrap our 3 months of traveling Southeast Asia and head south to Melbourne, Australia tonight where deep winter awaits. If ya’ll are wondering how we are possibly spending every minute of every day together, the answer is our deep, eternal bond and newfound zen mentality. JUST KIDDING, the answer is podcasts, we listen to a lot of podcasts. 

Living the nomadic life. An overnight layover in Singapore Airport. © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We kickstarted the month of June with an overnight layover at the Singapore airport, which we were somehow excited for (what is wrong with us?). Perhaps because we expected that we could make our experience at least as good as glamping at this airport-from-the-future. We peacefully strolled the airport’s mall and butterfly garden, and even peeped into the medical center and movie theater (sadly no movies during the pandemic), all the while unknowingly giving up any and all of the free sleeping pods. The airport hotels and spas were grossly out of budget, so when 10 PM rolled around, cut to Eric on the floor with his trusty eye mask and earplugs, and Sarah curled up on a hard chair with a true-crime podcast to lull her to sleep.

Java, Indonesia © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

A short plane-ride later we touched down in Java, Indonesia’s most populous island, where we encountered probably the most difficult language barrier of the trip thus far. We also found ourselves consuming some form of fried rice or noodle, sprinkled with egg, meat and veggies for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. But our main mission here was tackling two volcano treks.

First up: Mount Bromo. We set out on the sunrise trek to the viewpoint of this beautiful volcano at 3:30 AM. Along the way we’d come to understand that treks in Indonesia have accessible peaks by many means-jeeps, motorbikes, horses, and even human carts (yes, you can pay approx $35 USD to have three men push you in a rickshaw/adult stroller up the extremely steep face of a volcano).

Fun first day exploring Mount Bromo! © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Fun first day exploring Mount Bromo! © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

At first, Sarah found the many options beyond hiking really cool from an accessibility standpoint (you can take the OT on a sabbatical, but you can’t take the OT out of the OT on the sabbatical.. or whatever). But, we came to find these avenues (including the cart) are utilized by fit people, even dressed in hiking gear (!?). The views were incredible, and we were proud of ourselves for earning the trek, but the peaks were super crowded.

Viewing Mount Bromo volcano at sunrise © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Viewing Mount Bromo volcano at sunrise © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Second, we journeyed to Mount Ijen in far east Java. Mount Ijen is unique in that it is home to one of the last sulfur mines still mined exclusively by hand, and the most sulfuric lake in the world (with a pH of 0.2). Sulfur vents burn neon blue flames in the middle of the night, which is what we were aiming to see when we woke up at 1 AM and motorbiked up the dark and steep winding mountain roads to begin the trek at 2 AM. 

Sunrise trek to Mount Ijen in far east Java. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Mount Ijen is unique in that it is home to one of the last sulfur mines still mined exclusively by hand, and the most sulfuric lake in the world © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
The Mount Ijen trek involved hiking up to the top of the crater, then down into it (with gasmask in hand because of the sulfur fumes) alongside the sulfur miners who do this backbreaking trek with 150–200 lbs of sulfur bricks multiple times a day © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The trek itself involved hiking up to the top of the crater, then down into it (with gasmask in hand because of the sulfur fumes) alongside the sulfur miners who do this backbreaking trek with 150–200 lbs of sulfur bricks multiple times a day (!!). We cheaped-out and didn’t hire a guide, so we stuck close to a guided group during the crater descent for some free information. The one thing we heard: “Be careful this water is very hot” as we came upon a creek. But uncoordinated and distracted Sarah (remember the part above about the murder podcasts?) stepped on the first rock jutting out of the stream, immediately panicked, wobbled, and stepped off her rock, one foot, then two.. *SPLASH* right into water more acidic than battery acid. She quickly scampered to the side, gritted her teeth, and waited for her feet to dissolve. BUT PHEW, by some good fortune, absolutely no harm was done.

Mount Ijen sulfur vents burn neon blue flames in the middle of the night © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Mount Ijen sulfur vents burn neon blue flames in the middle of the night © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Mount Ijen Trek in far east Java. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Mount Ijen Trek in far east Java. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The blue fire was cool but Eric was sure we were doing lifelong damage to our eyes and lungs so we snapped some pictures and got THE HELL out of there. We walked back up the crater rim to see the sunrise, and chivalrous Eric lent his dry hiking socks to Sarah before we scurried down the mountain to try to beat the rickshaws. 

Sunrise trek to Mount Ijen in far east Java. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Mount Ijen Trek in far east Java. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Mount Ijen Trek in far east Java. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Our  accommodation down the hill from Ijen–a bamboo hut with curtains instead of walls © Sarah Falter/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We went home to crash at our accommodation down the hill from Ijen–a bamboo hut with curtains instead of walls–which looked quite dreamy online, but the constant ripping from sleep by the sound of critters scurrying around, and in, our hut (and Eric’s accompanying yelps) made this a true instagram-vs-reality situation. The hosts were very sweet, but we were excited to get THE HELL out of there (again).. we packed our bags and took the $1 ferry east to Bali. 

Indonesia as a whole has a Muslim-majority population, but the island of Bali is predominantly Hindu. We observed their appreciation and respect for nature when they’d place offerings of flowers, fruits, and leaves on their doorsteps each day to nourish the gods. North Bali felt largely untouched by mass tourism, and we took serious advantage of the empty beaches and $5 fish dinners (for two).

Once we made our way south to Ubud, we were transported to another world of pre-pandemic travel. Streets full of tourists flocked to cafes where the most popular item on the menu was something like Buddha Bowl, or Keto Kale Bowl. We dabbled in many different yoga classes (even accidentally signing up for 90 minutes of breath work), and ate smoothie bowls to our hearts’ content.

Further south in Canggu and Uluwatu we sat on many-a-beach watching absolutely insane surfer talent, on literally every wave. Though we must admit the beaches weren’t the best for the non-surfers; sticky sand, lots of rocks, and strong currents.

In very Bali fashion, we lunched next to surfer Kelly Slater in west Uluwatu. Unfortunately, it was at this spot that Eric’s burrito fell apart as soon as he picked it up. As he was putting it back together, he spotted a worm crawling through the lettuce. Eric plucked it out and we watched it inch across his hand. We had to act cool in front of Kelly of course, so we just made pity faces at each other and shrugged. Eric blissfully chewed on while Sarah stared off in space, thinking about all the bugs we’ve likely consumed, buried in street food this trip.

In very Bali fashion, we lunched next to surfer Kelly Slater in west Uluwatu. © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Before leaving the island of Bali, we followed a friend’s recommendation of spending an evening at The Istana: a luxury wellness and “biohacking” center on the edge of a cliff. After locking up our phones, per policy, we explored the various hot/cold pools and chatted with the characters (mostly expat locals) who frequent The Istana. Along the way we met Poppy, a ~12 year old girl (?? she didn’t actually know how old she was) who was born to British and Swedish parents on a sailboat in Panama when her parents were living at sea for 6 years. She told us she goes to forest school in Uluwatu with 4 other expat kids in her age group, and that her older brother (who sounds like he’ll be a professional surfer) was pulled out of school because his parents thought he was being taught “too many sad things”. Hippie parents take on entirely new meaning in Bali.

On Flores, we spent 3 nights on a remote island living in a beach hut, playing ping pong and attending movie nights & bonfires with the same 30 people every day © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Our last stop in Indonesia (where we write this dispatch) is the island of Flores, a plane-ride east of Bali. This leg of the trip started great – we spent 3 nights on a remote island living in a beach hut, playing ping pong and attending movie nights & bonfires with the same 30 people every day (essentially Jewish summer camp). But when we got back to mainland Flores, things took a turn..

We didn’t intend to spend an entire week at the port-town of Labuan Bajo, but we did. Did we like Labuan Bajo? Let’s just say we ate pizza for four consecutive nights and our highlight each day was going to Starbucks and ordering an iced matcha/espresso hybrid (the classic coffee is tragically bad in Indonesia-mostly instant coffee or pour-over in your mug that’s watery and gritty, which while drinking Eric constantly remarked, “HOW IS IT SO BAD, THEY GROW IT RIGHT THERE?! [points to any mountain in the vicinity]”).

This town is known basically for one thing, and that is its proximity to Komodo National Park, a boat ride away. Eric be-friended (then be-enemied) all of the local guys in town running the racket of booking boats. We’d come to learn that the dozen of them are all in cahoots, upselling while funneling you to the same 1-2 boats actually in the harbor. Our boats were confirmed, deposits paid, and then canceled the night before for varying fabricated reasons, keeping us in the vortex of this mind-numbing town for more days than we’ve spent in any single town on this trip (read: gut-wrenching). We finally got a boat on our last day in Indonesia, and saw the elusive Komodo, which exists in the wild only here (it’s a carnivore and cannibal, mothers even eat their own babies so the little ones hide in trees for the first three years of their lives- WTF). Our boat also plopped us on an island with a pink sand beach for an hour, so we left happy 🙂 

We finally get to see the elusive Komodo in Komodo National Park, which exists in the wild only here © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
We finally get to see the elusive Komodo, which exists in the wild only here © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Pink sand beach on Padar Island © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Padar Island, part of Komodo National Park. From here, you can see three beaches on the island – white sand, black volcanic sand, and pink sand © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 

Onward to the depths of winter – first in Australia, then New Zealand then closing out this crazy adventure in South America.

See also:

DISPATCH 1 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: MEXICO

DISPATCH 2 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: SOUTH KOREA TO VIETNAM

DISPATCH 3 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: MALAYSIA TO CAMBODIA

DISPATCH 4 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: INDONESIA

DISPATCH 5 FROM LIVING THE NOMADIC LIFE, A GLOBAL ODYSSEY: AUSTRALIA-NEW ZEALAND-CHILE

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