Category Archives: Cultural travel

Annadel Estate Winery: A Sonoma Stand-Out for Charm, Intimacy, History and Really Fine Wine

Katie Honey, who with her husband Dan Whalen acquired the historic Annadel Vineyard and Winery, hosts intimate, personalized wine-tastings in Sonoma, California’s wine country © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Within days of uprooting from downtown Philadelphia and acquiring the 33-acre Annadel Estate Vineyard and Winery  in California’s Sonoma wine country, Katie Honey and Dan Whalen found themselves fighting wildfire that threatened to consume the century-old farmhouse and vineyard. For days, they battled the Glass Fire that ultimately destroyed a cottage, structures, melted the vineyard drip lines, and scorched fields. “We fought the fires ourselves,” she relates during our recent wine-tasting tour.

That was 5 years ago, and they have brought their entrepreneurial talent and passion for wine to rebuild, replant and remake the 1880s winery. They restored the vineyard, added a flower farm, orchard and bee hives, and converted the historic structures into an intimate wine-tasting and indoor/outdoor wedding and events venue, as well as making Annadel their family home. Want to feel like a Sonoma local? Annadel even offers a few cozy accommodations where you can stay for a month or more.

With hundreds of wineries and wine-tasting venues throughout Sonoma and Napa valleys, Annadel Estate stands out for its charm and intimacy – and fine wine. Wine-tasting is by reservation only, and limited to six guests at a time, sitting around a table in a small cottage. And so we are buzzed in through a gate and immediately fall under Annadel’s spell.

Annadel Vineyard and Winery curates intimate, personalized wine-tastings and vineyard tours in Sonoma, California’s wine country © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We are greeted by Katie Honey, the co-owner and entrepreneur with her husband Dan Whalen, who ushers us to a gorgeous table set out with a platter of delectable cheeses, fruits and crackers to complement the four wines we taste.

As we sample the 2023 Reserve Chardonnay, Katie recounts the story of the Annadel Estate Winery – interesting to be sure, but we find how the wine enthusiasts came to be viticulturists even more storied.

Katie, who was born and raised on the prairie of Saskatchewan, Canada to three generations of farmers, brings a professional background consulting on events planning and logistics and Dan, a New Jersey native, runs a tech company. She describes themselves as wine appreciators and passionate gastronomists before they were wine producers. In fact, they are trained sommeliers who would come to Sonoma and Napa three and four times a year for tastings. They even were married here in Sonoma Valley.

Katie and Dan apply their professional backgrounds, their entrepreneurial bent and personal passions, combined with the terroir, history, and classical estate characteristics of the property, to build a sustainable, socially conscious business around creating wines and curating experiences.

They were very familiar with Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere) and where they wanted to source grapes for the wines they wanted to produce, supplementing their own vineyard production with contracts for blocs at other vineyards.

Business expertise and sustainability are key issues considering Annadel’s long history: the winery was established in 1880 by German immigrants Henry and Anna Bolle. By the late 1880s, the once 545-acre property was producing nearly 50,000 gallons of wine a year, which would equate to a harvest of about 300 tons from 90-acres of vineyards. 

Over the 140 years, the Estate has transferred ownership multiple times, been divided and sub-divided into smaller parcels. With Prohibition on the horizon (coinciding with the winery burning down), it ceased being a winery in 1910 and from 1949-1961, was a turkey ranch. Ultimately, with the rise of Sonoma Valley as a premium, world-class wine-producing region, it has been restored to growing grapes and creating wine.

“Sonoma has a perfect climate – warm, dry, hot days, cool evenings and mornings,” Katie tells us, as we savor the 2023 Reserve Chardonnay.

Pinot Noir grapes on the vine at Annadel Vineyard and Winery © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 

She describes their wine-making style as “Old World” (think Italy and France). They prefer to harvest early, so the grapes have lower sugar, brighter acid, and  then age the wine in 100% new French oak barrels “to round out, soften” the flavor.

That’s what I notice in the wines we taste – a rounded, smooth, full flavor.

The 2023 Annadel Estate Reserve Chardonnay we taste is from Gap’s Crown Vineyard grapes.

The tasting notes describe it best: “The nose shows candied ginger, orange blossom, crisp Bartlett pear, and exotic high tones of tuberose. The mouth leads with crunchy green apple, lemon curd, and a whisper of lilac. The mouth is both soft and focused giving length and freshness.”

We thoroughly enjoy the 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir, the grapes from the coveted Durrell Vineyard (the contracts are hard to come by). It is robust, bright, has good balance, a fruit forward flavor.  “This is a floral wine where you will get wafts of dark cranberry and tart cherry, a fuse of sandalwood with perfume and grace. The mouth is round and bright with red cherry and pipe tobacco which provide a complex and beautiful finish.”

Katie notes simply, “Some pinots can be funky, earthy, but this has a nice profile. It’s not too anything.”

Tasting Annadel’s 2022 Estate “Chevy B’ Red Blend in the outdoor venue space, where the historic winery once stood © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The secret ingredient to Annadel’s success has to be Drew Damskey, their wine maker. Drew’s roots run deep in the Napa and Sonoma vineyards, where three generations of his family has been growing and crafting wines. Drew, who the San Francisco Chronicle named “a Winemaker to Watch”, and earned a coveted place on VinePair’s 50 List which celebrates the professionals who are changing the drinks space, is a partner in Suara Wine Company and serves as a consultant winemaker for several highly sought-after brands including Annadel.

“The same grapes may produce a flavor profile, but the artistic difference comes from the wine master, aging, and oak barrels,” Katie tells us. “Our goal isn’t to taste the same every year. We do what the year gives us.”

We take our glass of 2022 Estate “Chevy B’ Red Blend, with 57% Merlot, as we stroll the vineyards and tour the venues.

Katie remarks that the movie, “Sideways” temporarily tanked the popularity of Merlot because it seemed the lead character didn’t like Merlot, when actually, he was bitter because Merlot is what he would drink with his ex-wife.

But Annadel fashioned their “Chevy B” after the legendary 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc, from the Saint-Emilion region of Bordeaux, considered one of the greatest wines in Bordeaux history.

Katie Honey tells the story of Annadel’s 2022 Estate “Chevy B’ Red Blend in the outdoor venue space, where the historic winery once stood © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

So, Katie says with a smile, Annadel’s version is called American ‘Chevy B’ (they couldn’t use ‘Chateau Blanc’), and puts an image of a 1957 Chevy on the label.

The 2022 Estate ‘Chevy B’ Red Blend proves to be my favorite of the four tastings. The tasting notes describe it as “Blueberry pie with warm crust first pop from the glass followed by juicy summer plum, ground clove, and touch of sage. The mouth starts with a little menthol and cigar box, but swings to black cherry, rose, and a hit of game. Wet pea gravel, mixed dark fruit, and dried herbs define the soft yet serious finish.” 

We walk through the vineyard. The oldest bloc here is from 1997, most of the vines were planted by 2001; the Pinot Noir vines were planted in 2017. “Old vines,” she says are 30-40 years old.

The grapes are picked at different times – dictated by weather conditions and even forecast.

“Drew, our winemaker, calls the pick, then the grapes go to the crusher.”

Annadel first began as a vineyard and winery in the 1880s © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

It is interesting to learn about some of the intricacies of cultivating the grapes, harvesting, and the practice of “whole cluster fermentation”, where the grapes are left on the stem, then go through a de-stemmer. “It adds more flavor complexity to the wine.”

Annadel continue the tradition of planting roses at the front of the row – the rose plants provide early indication of infestation and disease before the vines show it; also, in the days when livestock was used, the rose bush prevented them from turning too soon and pulling down the post.

“Wine making is so seeped in tradition,” she says.

Pinot Noir grapes on the vine at Annadel Vineyard and Winery © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Every season, every harvest brings its own drama.  For example, “If there is frost, you have to immediately call the insurance company.” One such frost hit as Katie was in labor with her daughter.

Their entrepreneurial bent- and strategy to make their business sustainable – supplementing the winery which produces some 1,235 cases of wine – is shown in their flower production – actually restoring a tradition. Annadel Estate Winery has been cultivating species of David Austin roses and hydrangeas since the 1880s. Katie and Dan have since planted three acres of roses and purchased 400-500 new rose bushes, selling to major vendors in San Francisco, and enabling the estate to maintain two fulltime farmworkers.

They also have planted a fruit orchard, olive grove and have their own bee hives.

Touring Annadel’s vineyard with Katie Honey, we can still see evidence of the 2020 wildfire © Eric Leiberman/goingplacesfarandnear.com

As we come to the small fruit orchard, we look up at the blackened trees on a hillside just across a road at the edge of their property, and she tells their harrowing story of fighting the Glass Fire. They lost a cottage, some 13,000 sq. ft of structures, and had to replace 200 plants.

But they were able to save the 1900 horse barn, which they converted into a charming indoor venue for weddings and special events; where the original winery stood is now the outdoor venue, with the stone walls as a perimeter. (They provide planners with a list of preferred vendors.)

A former horse barn, dating from 1910, now serves as the indoor venue for weddings, events and groups at Annadel Vineyard and Winery, which dates back to 1880s © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

This part of Annadel’s business is managed by Emily Todd Rodriguez, a wine country native whose background includes a three Michelin star restaurant, The Restaurant at Meadowood, boutique family-owned wine brands like Saintsbury and Amulet Estate, and managing logistics for Napa Valley Vintners events.

A former horse barn, dating from 1910, now serves as the indoor venue for weddings, events and groups at Annadel Vineyard and Winery, which dates back to 1880s © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Back in the tasting room, we savor Annadel’s 2022 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: “Sweet dark fruits and pipe tobacco leap out of the glass, blue berry compote and clove emerge, followed by very juicy dark fruit and vanilla. The mouth is juicy and the tannins are supple there is mocha and grilled plum on the finish with soft tannins.”

The personalized, 75-minute wine-tasting experience ($75) is by reservation only and limited to six guests per party, and is what distinguishes Annadel. (Larger groups can be accommodated in the indoor event venue.)

“We emulate what we learned as wine tasters,” Katie says. “We curate the experience – we ask what people want to do.” Because of that, they are particularly family-friendly. (Tastings are offered M-F,  10am – 3pm, S-S: 9am – 2pm).

Has being a producer from a wine connoisseur changed their relationship to wine? “We appreciate it more. Wine doesn’t just grow out of ground.”

The biggest surprise? “Though everyone is in competition, how generous and collaborative the industry is.” This was especially the case after the fire. “People we just met took us into their home.”

Annadel Estate Winery, 125 Cristo Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95409, 707-537-8007; events 707-584-6816, https://annadelestatewinery.com/shop-our-wine/, info@annadelestatewinery.com, annadelestatewinery.com.

BeautifulPlaces Offers Short-Term Stays at Private Villas for Wine Country’s Harvest Season

Harvest season (August-October) is an exciting time of year in Northern California’s wine country when grapes are picked and crushed, and many wineries celebrate the season with harvest parties, dinners and fun hands-on experiences like grape stomps.  
 
For foodies, the harvest brings extra special culinary experiences as restaurants and private chefs use the bounty of farm-fresh ingredients to create special menus and delicious dishes. 

Indulge in wine-themed events in Sonoma in September and October, most notably at the Sonoma County Wine Celebration in September and the Harvest Fair-Taste the Best of Sonoma County. Want to stomp grapes? Check out Napa Valley Vintners’ Harvest Stomp Party on Oct. 4 and Crush Party on Oct. 17.  

BeautifulPlaces is a source of villa rentals available for wine-country-themed getaways with onsite vineyards or vineyard views.

BeautifulPlaces is a source of villa rentals available for wine-country-themed getaways with onsite vineyards or vineyard views (minimum three-night stay). Visitors can rent villas with vineyards or vineyard views for as few as three nights to partake of wine harvest-related festivities throughout Napa and Sonoma, where there are hundreds of wineries to choose from.

Among them: Casa Sebastiani, historic 6-bedroom Italian villa and homestead of the Sebastiani Family in downtown Sonoma with adjacent vineyards at $1,800/night; Villa Nel Bosco, 3-bedroom Tuscan-style villa on a small vineyard at $1,495/night; Sunset View, 3-bedroom wine country vineyard retreat at $2,100/night; Twilight Ridge, 5-bedroom contemporary home with vineyard at $2,100/night.

When broken down per room, per night, private villa experiences are often more affordable than booking multiple accommodations at a hotel, with the added benefit of living space and kitchen and dining facilities  – an ideal option for couples traveling together and multi-generational groups. 
 
Award-winning BeautifulPlaces is a pioneer in hotel-style hospitality and property management in private residences. The company has over 21 years experience in the luxury villa industry in Napa and Sonoma, California and the Virgin Islands, and soon in Santa Barbara, Kauai and Costa Rica.

Visit the BeautifulPlaces website to view villa rental retreats ranging from cozy chic cottages to magnificent hilltop estates, www.beautiful-places.com  or call 800-495-9961. 

Also, for a limited time, Sonoma County Tourism has a third-night free deal: book two nights at participating properties and your third night is free. (https://www.sonomacounty.com/third-night-free/)

Get more travel planning help from Sonoma County Tourism, 800-576-6662 / 707-522-5800, www.sonomacounty.com

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_feature

Boat Bike Tours’ Netherlands Islandhopping: Discovering Living History in Enkhuizen

People in period dress bring to life the village of Urk as it was in 1905, in the Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village in Enkhuizen that re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee before the sea was turned into a lake © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

On Day 8 of our Boat Bike Tours’ Islandhopping Netherlands tour, we wake up in Enkhuizen, back where we started. We have breakfast and have to disembark by 9:30 am but we are able to leave our luggage on board for a couple of hours, giving me time to explore a bit before I need to take the train back to Amsterdam and the Schiphol Airport. I really appreciate this bit of time since I hadn’t a chance to explore Enkhuizen when we first arrived (I recommend coming a day before the ship sails so you have more time), and though I had some time to explore in the evening, i really enjoy myself wandering around this morning.

A reminder that despite its historic appearance today, Enkhuizen was bombed in World War II © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Enjoying a walk-about picturesque Enkhuizen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Zuiden Kerk in Enkhuizen gets ready to welcome congregants for Sunday morning service © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I find myself at the Zuiden Kerk (church) – magnificent yet simple and unpretentious, awesome yet approachable; ancient yet modern, the painted wooden ceiling shaped like the upside down bottom of a boat. It is Sunday morning and people are gathering for service as the organmeister plays Pacobel.

Plan to spend at least 3 hours at the Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village in Enkhuizen that re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee before the sea was turned into a lake © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
The Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village in Enkhuizen, re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
The Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village in Enkhuizen, re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
The Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village in Enkhuizen, re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I find my way to the Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village that re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee before the sea was turned into a lake (the Ijsselmeer where we have just sailed) – when the dam was built in 1932. You stroll the cobble streets and explore 140 historic buildings collected from the former Zuiderzee region.

The Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village in Enkhuizen, re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
The Zuiderzee Museum, an open-air living history museum village in Enkhuizen, re-creates daily life around the Zuiderzee © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
The baker is open for business at the living history Zuiderzee Museum in Enkhuizen© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Visit the apothecary at the living history Zuiderzee Museum in Enkhuizen© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The outdoor museum was opened by Queen Beatrix in 1983 as an extension of the indoor Zuiderzeemuseum, which opened in 1950 (the indoor museum doesn’t open until noon so I have to miss it). Most of the buildings are authentic while others are reconstructed replicas of actual buildings. A complete village, you can wander around and visit a windmill, lime kilns, fish-smoking house, steam laundry, drugstore, pharmacy, basketmaker, blacksmith, cheese warehouse, school (where wooden shoes are lined up outside the classroom), even a hairdresser, and visit the working post office. The harbor is a replica of its layout on Marken. From April to November you can see life in the village of Urk as it was in 1905, meet residents and watch traditional activities, like games and building clog boats, and demonstrations of crafts such as rope-making, cooperage, basket making and herring being smoked.

The Indoor Museum is “a treasure house of the Zuiderzee” © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Indoor Museum, “a treasure house of the Zuiderzee,” consists of a string of 17th century buildings (original and replicated), some of which were used by the Dutch East India Company. Here, various collections are presented with a modern approach: you can dive into a ‘Sea of Stories’ and experience life on the former Zuiderzee in this interactive exhibition. A popular attraction is the ‘Schepenhal’ (ship’s hall), which allows visitors a close-up view of historic ships. The indoor museum also displays artifacts from the Zuiderzee cultural past, including paintings, furniture and traditional local costumes (‘klederdracht’). (Unfortunately, it opens at noon and I do not have the time to visit.)

Enjoying a walk-about picturesque, historic Enkhuizen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Both indoor and outdoor museums have several restaurants located in National Heritage sites, like the Hindeloopen Pub, the Amsterdam House and the Pepper House on the Wierdijk.

Admission is 22E (56E for a family); plan to spend at least 3 hours at the outdoor museum. [Note: if you are extending the boat bike tour with a stay in Amsterdam, you may want to get the Iamsterdam city card (www.iamsterdam.com), which includes admission to the Zuiderzee Museum, https://www.iamsterdam.com/en/whats-on/calendar/museums-and-galleries/museums/zuiderzee-museum]

Zuiderzee Museum, Wierdijk 12-22, 1601 LA Enkhuizen, https://www.zuiderzeemuseum.nl/.

Getting to Enkhuizen

Enkhuizen is a pleasant hour-long train ride from Amsterdam’s Central Station © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I am relieved to see how amazingly easy it is to get to/from the embarkation point in Enkhuizen from Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport (especially since I arrived by plane on the same day as the boat departed): just walk down to the train (every 15 minutes) to the Central Station, a quick switch to the train to Enkhuizen (every half hour) for the hour-long, comfortable and scenic ride. The trick is to “check in” with a credit/debit card using the app, or purchase a ticket (14-16E) before you go through to the train by tapping on a pole (a conductor will double check on the train), then when you depart the train, tap it on the pole again, and the correct amount is debited. (If you don’t pre-purchase, the conductor can charge you an extra 50E; I did forget but the conductor was extremely kind in helping me buy the ticket online.) Then it’s just a five minute walk from the train station to the ship. You can purchase tickets in the vending machines at the stations or online on https://www.ns.nl/en/journeyplanner#/. The website can also be used to check the timetable.

Enkhuizen is a pleasant hour-long train ride from Amsterdam’s Central Station © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Enkhuizen is a pleasant hour-long train ride from Amsterdam’s Central Station © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Getting back to the airport is equally easy – we are asked to leave the ship by 9:30 am (but I am able to store my luggage there, so I could visit the city until 11).I time my touring to get back to the ship, pick up my stuff to get the 11:39 am train to Central Station in Amsterdam, then a quick switch to the train to Schiphol with more than the three-hours before my flight at 7:05 pm.

Take the train from Schiphol Airport to Central Station in Amsterdam’s historic center (be sure to buy/download your ticket and tap the yellow pole) © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Boat Bike Tours

Boat Bike Tours’ Bruges to Amsterdam trip is among the most popular for Americans © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

This was my second trip with Boat Bike Tours (I had the best time on their Bruges-Amsterdam boat-bike-tour – utter perfection with the biking, the boat, the sights along the way; be sure to plan to spend at least a day in Bruges before the bike tour to appreciate its enchantment).

Boat Bike Tours, which is based in Amsterdam, got its start when Channel Cruises Holland, a barge tour operator founded in 1977, added biking to its itineraries in response to guests asking for traditional Dutch activities. The new cruise-and-cycle concept was so successful that it was spun off as its own brand in the mid-1990s. Between 2000 and 2020, the company added more itineraries and ships. Last year, Boat Bike Tours merged with Islandhopping, a Croatia-based operator which also specializes in cruise-and-cycle travel (I loved the boat-bike trip in Greece that I took with Islandhopping some years ago). Together, the merged company, while operating under their own names, offers more than 70 itineraries in 15 countries, and has opened a North American sales office in Fairfield, Connecticut.

“With half of our guests coming from North America now, it makes sense to have an office here,” said Jana Tvedt, Director of Sales, North America for Boat Bike Tours. “We’re available when needed and familiar with what Americans and Canadians are looking for in destinations, experiences and ships. And we’re always happy to work with travel advisors, groups and charters.”

Each season, the company contracts some 50 ships including barges, motor yachts and sailing ships, ranging in category from comfortable to superior. Biking styles include guided for casual riders and independent (self-guided) for seasoned cyclists, with touring bikes, e-bikes and mountain bikes available depending on the destination.

Itineraries range from five to 15 days, with most being eight days, and cater to a variety of budgets and interests, from historic cities and landmarks to picturesque natural landscapes and the world’s best wines. The Boat Bike Tours concept is to enable guests to connect with local people, culture and nature, while traveling by smaller boat and by bike also takes guests beyond tourist hotspots and minimizes environmental impacts. (Our sailing ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, uses biodiesel.)

Boat Bike Tours will be offering a deluxe itinerary on a newly built ship for 2026, Magnifique X, that includes a hotel stay in Amsterdam and a hotel stay in Paris © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The big news is that Boat Bike Tours will be offering a newly built ship for 2026, Magnifique X, an all-suite ship accommodating 32 passengers, giving the company a new deluxe, superior category. In addition to the bigger cabin, the itinerary is also enhanced with upgraded amenities, support van, included lunches, and more sightseeing inclusions. The itinerary goes from Amsterdam to Paris with one night hotel stay in Amsterdam, then biking to Bruges, then a motorcoach transfer to Paris where there is a hotel stay. (Bookings are open.)

Among its most popular itineraries for North American travelers:

Come at least the day before starting out on Boat Bike Tours’ Bruges to Amsterdam trip to be enchanted by Bruges at night © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Amsterdam to Bruges: Cruise and ride through the Dutch countryside of Zeeland and western Flanders in Belgium. Tour world-famous cities such as Amsterdam, Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges, as well as picturesque villages, a Dutch cheese farm, the windmills of Kinderdijk and the magnificent natural landscape along the Schelde River.

Split to Dubrovnik: Hop from island to island in the South Dalmatia region of Croatia by boat and e-bike. See the town centers of Split and Dubrovnik, and experience the culture and nature of more sparsely populated islands like Brač, Hvar, Korčula, Lastovo, Mljet and Šipan. E-bikes help with hilly and mountainous terrain.

Cochem to Metz: Follow the Moselle River through Germany, France and Luxembourg, passing endless vineyards and stopping to taste local wines. See enchanting old cities like Cochem and Bernkastel, the once-imperial Roman Trier, the stunning waterfalls of Saarburg, the Gothic cathedral of Metz and welcoming villages in between.

The merger of the Boat Bike Tours and Islandhopping means that clients of either one can take advantage of a 3% loyalty discount when booking. Notably, bike tours prove superb for the burgeoning number of solo travelers, and each departure offers at least one cabin with a reduced single supplement.

For more information, contact Boat Bike Tours, 203-814-1249 or visit https://www.boatbiketours.com/.

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_feature

Boat Bike Tours’ Netherlands Islandhopping: Exploring the Solar System through an 18th Century Lens

The marvelous Eise Eisinga Planetarium, the world’s oldest continuously operating planetarium in the world, dating from 1781, in Franeker visited on Day 6 of Boat Bike Tours’ eight-day Islandhopping tour of northern Netherlands. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Day 6 on Boat Bike Tours’ eight-day Islandhopping tour of northern Netherlands is a case when the hype doesn’t even begin to match the reality of the experience. Today’s ride will take us either 29 or 36 miles (depending on our choice of short or long routes) from Harlingen to Franeker, through the Frisian countryside and rural villages to Bolsward and into Makkum on the eastern bank of lake Ijsselmeer. Boat Bike Tours doesn’t just curate the cycling routes, they also curate experiences. In this case, our bike tour turns into an exploration of the solar system through an 18th century lens.

The marvelous Eise Eisinga Planetarium, the world’s oldest continuously operating planetarium in the world, dating from 1781, in Franeker, was built by the amateur astronomer in his house, now a UNESCO World Heritage site © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We set out biking first to the historic center of Franeker to visit the Koninklijk Eise Eisinga Planetarium (Royal Eise Eisinga Planetarium) – the oldest continuously operating planetarium in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. I had never heard of Eise Eisinga or his planetarium, but am instantly amazed.

Eise Eisinga was a wool-comber and largely self-taught scientist and astronomer who spent seven years, from 1774 to 1781, crafting his planetarium in his house © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Eise Eisinga was a wool-comber and largely self-taught scientist and astronomer who spent seven years, from 1774 to 1781, building a remarkable planetarium in his house! – in his living room/bedroom/dining room to be precise. We see the cupboard where he would have slept with his wife under the mechanism, the pull-out trundle bed where his children would have slept, the dining table. Above, on the ceiling, we see where he constructed a solar system where the six known planets in exact scale follow their rotation around the sun with remarkable precision even by today’s standards, using today’s instruments. The fact that the mechanism is still in working order is evidence of the ingenuity and foresight of its maker, who left detailed instructions for its maintenance.

See exhibits of early astronomical devices at the Eise Eisinga Planetarium in Franeker © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

While waiting for the English-language presentation, we visit the fascinating exhibits that take up the rest of his home, starting with a delightful video interview between “Eise Eisinga” and an actual Dutch astronaut and another superb video about Eisinga’s life.

When I learn about Eise Eisinga’s biography, I am awed by his genius, bringing to my mind Leonardo DaVinci.

Eise Eisinga was born in 1744 in Dronrijp where he attended primary school. Like many children in those days who worked at home, he worked in his father’s wool combing establishment. In addition to his father’s profession, he inherited his father’s interest in astronomy and mathematics. Eise was so determined to learn that he would travel every week to Franeker, a major center of learning, to study Euclidean math with Willem Wijtses, a wool dyer. When he was 24, Eisinga married Pietje Jacobs and settled in Franeker in 1768, working as a wool comber.

On May 8, 1774,a local newspaper published a prediction from a preacher that the confluence of Mercury, Venus, Mars and Jupiter and the moon would result in the mutual forces of these celestial bodies knocking the earth off its path and cause it to be burned up by the sun (“the end of time!”). That set off a panic and seems to have been an impetus for Eisinga to begin building his model of the solar system to show the extreme unlikelihood of planets colliding.

The fascinating planetarium that Eise Eisinga built in his bedroom/dining room © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

It took Eisinga seven years to construct his planetarium – a real triumph of craftsmanship to carve the wood (his father, a woodcarver, helped), create 6,000 precision nails for the cogs, and the exquisite painting. Eise would have finished sooner, but in a critical development, he had to adjust the placement of the pendulum that kept everything in motion, because his wife drew the line on allowing him to cut a hole in the floor (it was their bedroom, after all), so he had to recalculate everything and replace all 6,000 nails.

The power (and motion) for the entire mechanism comes from a clock, “like the beating heart of the machine,” our guide explains. The mechanism is powered by a system of nine weights – one for clock and 8 for different axels of system

All is built to scale to fit into the space – an astonishing 1 to 1 trillion – and everything is turning so slowly, you can’t detect motion visually. Every planet has its own calculated speed, so Mercury takes 88 days to make one full rotation; Venus takes 224 days; Earth takes 365 days plus 76 hours while the moon takes 29 ½ days to go around the earth (it shows the phases of the moon); Mars takes 687 days; Jupiter, with four moons (the number known at the time), takes 11 years, 315 ⅓ days for its rotation; and Saturn, the furthest known planet at the time, actually has rings and 5 moons and takes 29 years plus 164 days for its rotation.

The marvelous Eise Eisinga Planetarium, the world’s oldest continuously operating planetarium in the world, dating from 1781, in Franeker visited on Day 6 of Boat Bike Tours’ eight-day Islandhopping tour of northern Netherlands. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

How do they know the planetarium is still working when everything moves so slowly?

“Everything is connected, so we check what moves daily: the date, zodiac sign, day of week.” On December 31, a special nail pushes the gears into motion to flip to the new year.

Eise Eisinga was such a visionary, two years after finishing his remarkable machine, he wrote a 90-page manual explaining how to maintain it.

“Every 22 years, we follow 5 steps – take board down, sand down, paint the years, let the paint dry, then replace it in the attic,” our guide says. The wheels are so big and move so slowly, they clean the gears once or twice a year.

Eisinga’s son took over when he died, and the planetarium remained in the family for 140 years until 1922 when his great granddaughter was the last in the family to maintain the planetarium. Then the City of Franeker took over its management.

Most of the mechanism is original (Mercury had to be replaced after being damaged in World War II) but they have had to change the ropes for the gears and pulleys.

After the presentation, we are able to climb the stairs to the attic to peer into where the wheels and gears are laid out.

We are able to climb up to the attic to see the gears that run Eise Eisinga’s fascinating planetarium © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Eisinga came to Franeker with his wife because it had the second largest university in the country and was a center for learning that drew famous scientists. But you can appreciate how trade with the world not only gave Netherlands the wealth to pursue science and innovation, but the access to and transfer of knowledge, not to mention a culture of Enlightenment that was open to new ideas and discovery. And Eise Eisinga was wealthy enough that he could afford to make natural science a hobby.

It is a humbling experience to imagine such expertise and craft hundreds of years ago, before the tools and instruments we have today.

See exhibits of early astronomical devices at the Eise Eisinga Planetarium in Franeker © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The museum offers several permanent exhibits: Eisinga’s former wool combing establishment, an extensive collection of historical astronomical instruments, Eisinga’s mathematical and astronomical manuscripts which you can digitally peruse, all marvelous juxtapositions to an interactive permanent exhibition, De Ruimte (Space) that opened in 2016, as well as that delightful video conversation between “Eise” and a modern-day Dutch astronaut (English subtitles).

Some of Eise Eisinga’s manuscripts are on view at the Eise Eisinga Planetarium in Franeker © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I peek into a room to see the finishing touches on a new temporary exhibit: a spectacular astronomical cabinet from 1771 by Jean Paulus and Prof. Ghiesbregt. “After long wanderings, this Belgian instrument came into possession of Bert Degenaar, a famous Dutch antique collector. On his behalf, the instruments were completely restored and made functional again by horologist Pieter de Ruiter. The 3 meter wide and over 2.5 meter high cabinet is equipped with various globes, planetariums (including an unprecedented representation of the 5th-century worldview of Martianus Capella) and the 16th-century heliocentric worldview of Copernicus. A number of dials provide information about various time indications, calendars, the position of the planets, the phases of the moon, and the orbit of Jupiter’s four largest moons.” The exposition also includes a large collection of original drawings of the various instruments. 

Finishing setting up the new temporary exhibit at the Eise Eisinga Planetarium in Franeker: a spectacular astronomical cabinet from 1771 by Jean Paulus and Prof. Ghiesbregt © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

All of this goes to serve as a literal display of what The Enlightenment was all about, which largely due to mass printing and trade, made its way to the New World, as well, and was foundational to the Founders of the United States.

Admission to Eise Eisinga’s planetarium is 6E (a HUGE bargain).

Eise Eisingastraat 3, 8801 KE Franeker, phone +31 (0) 517–393 070, info@eisinga-planetarium.nl, https://www.eisinga-planetarium.nl/en/plan-your-visit/, https://www.eisinga-planetarium.nl/en/the-planetarium/

Thankfully, we have enough time to appreciate what’s here at the planetarium (this is important), though I could easily have spent another hour.

The scene along our bike route from Franeker to Makkum on our Boat Bike Tours’ Netherlands Islandhopping tour © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We continue on our 36-mile bike route which follows much of the a famous 11-city, 200-km bike tour, and in the course of two days, we will visit six of the 11 and have the opportunity to collect stamps (like passport stamps) on postcards our guides have provided.

The scene along our bike route from Franeker to Makkum on our Boat Bike Tours’ Netherlands Islandhopping tour © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By the time we ride into Bolsward, one of the Eleven Frisian Cities, the rain has stopped. Here we see one of the art installations we have been told about – this one looks like Toothless from “How to Train Your Dragon.”.

The magnificently decorated Court of Justice Building in Bolsward © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Bolsward is really beautiful, and I am entranced by the magnificence of The Court of Justice building, now a museum, where I get to climb into the tower built on top of the Court in 1617 (a really improbable and unsafe construction).

You can climb into the tower of the Court of Justice Building in Bolsward © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

But this is the first day when I see why people would get an e-bike in the Netherlands – I’m guessing I am pushing through or against 15 mph winds.

In the evening, our guide, Edith, leads a walking tour of Makkum– it’s just me and a couple from Alberta, Canada. Edith points to homes that have a Coat of Arms or some indication of who lived there, when the fellow shows us his ring with a Coat of Arms. He turns out to be a descendent of the Trip family, one of the wealthiest, most powerful families in Netherlands.

He relates more of his family’s fascinating story as we sit in a historic pub with centuries old Delpht tiles of great 17th century trading ships, noting more than once than the family fortune had been long gone and his branch of the family emigrated to Canada. It’s like having someone from that time tell their story.

Trip shows me his coat of arms as we walk around Makkum, and tells the story of his family, one of the richest and most powerful in Netherlands  © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Trip’s family’s coat of arms, he relates, has three zoltbommel (wooden shoes) – a nod to the fact that the family started by manufacturing wooden shoes.

Then, brothers Jacob and Elias Trip went into river barges, got rich, then expanded into sea trade. They had a connection with an iron factory which they parlayed into weapons manufacture, arming the Dutch rebels against the Spanish in its 80-year war for independence, 1568-1648 (apparently selling arms to both sides).

Tiles in a historic pub depict trading ships very likely belonging to the Dutch East India Company© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Trip was among the original investors of the Dutch East India Company (Verenigde Oost-indische Compagnie, VOC), in 1602, the first public company to issue stock and the first truly multinational corporation, transforming global commerce and trade (at its peak, the company would have been worth $7 trillion in today’s dollars, the most valuable company in history). The VOC was granted a monopoly on Dutch trade with Asia and also possessed the power to wage war, make treaties, govern territories, and even mint its own currency, as if a nation-state. So much of what we experience on our trip goes back to the Dutch East India Company.

Meanwhile, the Trips became one of the richest and most important families in Netherlands. Portraits painted by Rembrandt of his relatives Jacob Trip (1576-1661) and his wife, Margaretha de Geer, are in the National Gallery and Ryksmuseum. Their sons, Louis and Hendrick Trip, became fabulously wealthy arms merchants, and built the Trippenhuis in 1662 once the widest residence in Amsterdam and on the list of top 100 Dutch heritage sites.

Tiles in a historic pub depict trading ships very likely belonging to the Dutch East India Company© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Edith adds that the Netherlands was one of the first republics in the world and makes the claim that its declaration of independence in 1581, provided a model for Thomas Jefferson in 1776, and was printed on paper from a Dutch paper mill.

“We are now a kingdom, but we started as a republic. Our constitution limits the power of king, our monarchy is more about public relations, like the United Kingdom.”

The first king of the Netherlands, Napoleon’s brother Louis who reigned from 1806-1810, started an art collection, which he brought to TrippenHuis – in essence the first Ryksmuseum. Trippenhuis was where Rembrandt’s “Night Watch: hung until 1851 and since 1887, has housed the Royal Netherlands Academy of Arts and Sciences. 

Returning to our ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, after our walking tour of Makkum as the sun sets © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Biking Makkum to Stavoren, Sailing to Enkhuizen  

Day 7’s ride takes us from Makkum to Stavoren, from where our ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, will sail across lake IJsselmeer to Enkhuizen, the endpoint of our trip. There is a prediction of rain today and strong wind, so the guides suggest I do the shorter ride (19 miles) and promise I won’t miss out on anything I will regret (the longer route, 30 miles, goes along several Frisian Lakes).

Coming upon a historic windmill, De Nylannermole, which the sign says dates from 1784, with a modern wind turbine in the distance,on our ride Makkum to Stavoren on Boat Bike Tours Netherlands Islandhopping tour © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Among the highlights of the ride are coming across a house deliberately built in an upside-down version of a traditional Frisian home (a bit surreal and you have to wonder), and a historic windmill, De Nylannermole, which the sign says dates from 1784, though its history goes back to 1624 (I’m trying to figure out the Dutch). At one point, I see the windmill with a wind turbine in the distance behind it, and later, we see windsurfers and sailboats – all reflections of how the Dutch have embraced wind.

The charming old city of Hindeloopen is a popular hub for cyclists © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We stop for lunch in a tiny little village as rain comes (we sit under umbrellas outside), and then continue on to Hindeloopen (where we should have cycled for lunch), an old trading town famous for a traditional decorative painting style. Hindeloopen seems to be the epicenter for cycling.

The charming old city of Hindeloopen is a popular hub for cyclists © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

This is a very charming village, where I go to explore and find the Grotte Kerk, dating back to the Middle Ages. This building dates from 1632.

One image shows the importance of wind in the Netherlands: sailing ships, wind turbines, wind surfing © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

As we finish our bike tour, we come across (actually riding through) a major, 150 km, bike race.

Riding through a 150 km cycling race on our way to Stavoren (a humbling experience) © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I finish the ride 1:15 pm, hoping I made the right choice in biking the shorter route, and have some time to explore Stavoren before we sail.

There is yet another one of the art installations (this one a giant fish), but I am particularly intrigued by the sculpture of “The Lady of Stavoren” here, and the moral to the story it offers.

“The Lady of Stavoren” legend dates from when the city was the largest and richest in Friesland. Many of the merchant ships were owned the Lady of Stavoren who ordered one of her captains to “Bring me the finest treasure in the world.” He brought back a grain that transformed into pure gold in the midday sun. She forced him to throw it into the sea. A fisherman foretold that she would be punished and at some point beg for grain. Later, two of her ships were lost at sea and she became a beggar woman, while the place where the grain was tossed turned into a sandbank, where a plant that grew ears of corn grew up but yielded no grain.

“The Lady of Stavoren” statue pays homage to a legend that dates from when the city was the largest and richest in Friesland. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We have an enjoyable sail back to Enkhuizen, a gala farewell dinner, and then I go off to explore the historic town, which is really worth more time than I will have before I have to return to Schiphol Airport early the next day. (Suggestion: arrive the day before the ship sails to give yourself some time to enjoy Enkhuizen.)

More information, Boat Bike Tours, www.boatbiketours.com, 203-814-249.

Next: Zuiderzee Museum is Not to be Missed in Enkhuizen

See also:

SETTING SAIL ON BOAT BIKE TOURS’ ISLANDHOPPING TOUR TO THE WADDEN SEA

BOATBIKETOURS’ NETHERLANDS ISLANDHOPPING: THE TEXEL ROADS YIELDS UP ITS TREASURE

BOAT BIKE TOURS NETHERLANDS ISLANDHOPPING: SAILING THE WADDEN SEA, BIKING, EXPLORING TERSCHELLING, HARLINGEN

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Boat Bike Tours Netherlands Islandhopping: Sailing the Wadden Sea, Biking, Exploring Terschelling, Harlingen

Sailing into Terschelling on our ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, on Day 4 of our Boat Bike Tours’ Islandhopping Netherlands bike tour © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Day 4 of our eight-day Boat Bike Tours’ Islandhopping tour of the Netherlands is spent sailing to the island of Terschelling. It takes about six hours to sail across the Wadden Sea, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Captain Age delicately navigates our ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, out of port © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

“Big boat, small water,” our captain, Age, says, guaranteeing that the ship is “unsinkable” because the water is so shallow, we would run aground first. (“Wadden” means “mudflats” and the Wadden Sea is a large intertidal area in the North Sea along the coasts of the Netherlands, Germany, and Denmark.)

Raising the sails on the ship, Leafde fan Fryslân © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We have a northwest wind so we can raise the sails on our ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, the only four-masted ship sailing in Dutch waters,  instead of just motoring to Terschelling.

First mate Lukacz does most of the work raising the sails on the Leafde fan Fryslân © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Lukacz, who I call the first mate, gives us the safety talk and invites us to help raise the sails (we don’t do it very well). He says it is more important to be safe “You are on vacation, a nice time. You can’t have a nice time with a broken hand. Bad pain is bad time.”  But looking around at several of us with boating jackets, says, “I can see this isn’t your first rodeo.” 

‘It’s about being happy,” Lukas says, finishing with “What do you think about my speech?”

We soon see why Lukacz describes himself as a “monkey” as he raises the sails on the Leafde fan Fryslân © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Lukacz describes himself as a “little monkey jumping around,” and we soon see why as we watch him leaping around to get the sails unfurled.

We soon see why Lukacz describes himself as a “monkey” as he raises the sails on the Leafde fan Fryslân © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The wind is so strong (“Respect the power,” he says), but once the sails are raised, we feel the quiet tranquility of sailing. But having come from Texel, and seeing the scores of shipwrecks of those ocean-going trading ships, I can only imagine what this would feel like in a storm, or how those sailors felt for months, even years crossing vast seas to Asia, Africa, and North America.

We have lunch on board as we sail (tonight, we will be on our own for dinner in Terschelling, armed with a list of recommended restaurants).

The scene is stunning, with several tall sailing ships along the horizon, the swirling green/blue water, the white cottony clouds.

Sailing ships line the horizon as we sail on the Leafde fan Fryslân © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

It is just 4 pm when we sail into Terschelling, flabberghasted by the finesse Captain Age shows to park our enormous ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, 210 ft. long, 24 ft. wide.

Sailing into Terschelling on our ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, on Day 4 of our Boat Bike Tours’ Islandhopping Netherlands bike tour © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We walk off the ship from the crowded harbor crammed with sailing ships tied up two and three abreast and explore the popular village. Huge ferry boats deposit thousands of visitors each day (remarkable considering a mere 9,700 people live on Terschelling).

Terschelling, one of 15 islands in the North Sea and the furthest north we will travel on our Islandhopping tour, is just 30 km long and 4.5 km wide with vast sand beaches, strong winds and wild water – and we will cycle around most of it.  

Terschelling skyline is dominated by the 420 year-old Brandaris lighthouse, standing 388 ft high © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The town is dominated by the 420 year-old Brandaris lighthouse, standing 388 ft high that can be seen from far off in the distance. I learn this is the oldest lighthouse in the Netherlands. The first tower was built in 1323 to guide ships on their way to Amsterdam through the Zuiderzee, the narrow opening between Vlieland and Terschelling. A flood destroyed the tower in 1570. Construction on a new tower began in 1592 but the tower collapsed before it was finished because of poor building materials. The tower we see today, remarkably, was built in 1594. It became the first lighthouse in the Netherlands equipped with a rotating Freshnel lens in 1837 and was electrified in 1907.

View from the top of the hill in Terschelling © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

I meet up with a German couple from our ship and follow them up a path over the dunes to the hilltop for a stunning view of the island and the port as the sun streams through clouds.

Back in the charming village, I come upon a gaggle of girls who, it turns out, are Ukrainians taking refuge here from the war in their homeland.  This brings a jolt of the world and current events to this small, isolated, peaceful place, shocking me back to the present out of my reverie for ages past. But as the historic markers and notes remind, the vast majority of human history has been one invasion, one war, one revolution, one disaster after another, and the nostalgia that sweeps over us looking back has a way of tempering the horror of that time. I think that one reason history is more palatable, less stressful, than present-day events is that we know how that chapter of the story ended.

Cycling Terschelling, Sailing to Harlingen

Setting out on the bike ride on Terschelling along the dyke © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

While the previous day was all about sailing, Day 5 is all about cycling. Terschelling offers 70 km of cycling tracks and four charming villages to discover. We will cycle 26 miles roundtrip, then, in the afternoon, sail across the Wadden Sea to Harlingen, the most important harbor city of the province of Friesland.

This is the first day of cycling where I appreciate why people get e-bikes in the Netherlands: the paths may be flat but the wind is strong (all the charming historic windmills and now modern wind turbines should have been a clue). I power through and at one point, one of our group becomes very conscientious about riding right in front of me to break the wind a bit (like the Tour de France!).

The Stryper Wyke statue honors a woman whose cleverness saved the town from British invaders © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We set out along the dyke, then turn off into villages, farms and fields. Our route takes us to the Stryper Wyke (wife) statue, a short distance from a cemetery. The monument heralds back to the 1666 wars with the English over trade with India. The British declared the North Sea as theirs and invaded this area, burning, raping, killing. The British, the story goes, confronted the Stryper Wyke demanding to know how many defenders there were, to which she replied, “100 standing, 1000 laying down” – referring to the cemetery. The legend goes that the invaders took her literally and retreated, and she is credited with saving the town.

In fact, everywhere we go, there are just such statues, monuments, plaques, placards and historic photos that cherish local history, heritage and culture and show the pride the Dutch have.

The Toesaks Museum (pirates!) is described as “an exciting and pleasantly eccentric museum for kids and adults” offering a collection recovered from shipwrecks © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We ride passed an intriguing Toesaks Museum (pirates!) which is described as “an exciting and pleasantly eccentric museum for kids and adults” offering a collection recovered from shipwrecks. The museum is housed in a farmhouse and has a real pirate ship, a tree house and a castle. Owner and wreck diver Hille van Dieren, I learn later, has been collecting recovered inventory pieces from the many shipwrecks around Terschelling since 1975. The museum is full of curiosities from 1650 to the present (https://wrakkenmuseum.nl/).

The wind becomes a factor as you bike on Terschelling © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

No one else wants to stop to visit, so I take a quick peek inside so I don’t hold up the group. But if it were important to me, I could have left the group and followed the route myself using the RideGPS app that Boat Bike Tours provides. But, the ship is sailing this afternoon and I wouldn’t have known if I could complete the route in time. 

At Koor Hoorn, hiking over enormous dunes which open up to this vast expanse of sand beach © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
The vast expanse of sand beach at Koor Hoorn © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We ride through open fields (battling the wind), through forest and then over a stretch of sand (not fun) and come to Koor Hoorn, hiking over enormous dunes which open up to this vast expanse of sand beach almost completely vacant of people or structures. I walk what seems a quarter mile before I finally reach the actual water, where the sea is swirling with whitecaps and the beach is strewn with a thick white foam that looks like pieces of clouds have fallen from the sky.

A wild swirl of sea and sky at Koor Hoorn © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

A popular thing to do is take a horsedrawn carriage ride on the beach and we see one of these carriages on the road.

A popular activity on Terschelling is to ride in a horse-drawn carriage on the beach © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Leaving the beach, our guide, Edith, leads us through the “Dark Forest” so we can be shielded a bit against the wind.

Biking through the “dark forest” on Terschelling © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We get to a charming Cranberry inn (spectacular desserts, all made with cranberry), and walk out to the cranberry field (not a bog).There is a small exhibit and video on a second floor. Just as we are gathering to leave, it starts to rain. Edith checks the weather app and predicts it will only last a few minutes – so I go back inside to get cozy in the upstairs screening room to watch the video about the island and raising cranberry. Sure enough, the rain stops within 15 minutes, and we are on our way. (One of the good things about the strong wind, is that rain rarely lasts long.)

Delectable cranberry desserts © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The route takes us up and over dunes, and finally, into the village to the port, where we stop at a monument to those who have been lost at sea.

It’s been a lovely ride – we’re back at about 3:15 pm and the ship soon pulls out of the harbor.

Monument to those lost at sea in the village on Terschelling © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We are in awe – along with everyone else on the dock – collectively holding our breath as Captain Age maneuvers out of the tight harbor. We sail across the Wadden Sea to Harlingen, considered the most important harbor city of the province of Friesland.

 

Sailing across the Wadden Sea to Harlingen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
Our ship, Leafde fan Fryslân, sails across the Wadden Sea to Harlingen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

We have dinner as we sail, and pull into Harlingen’s port in time to have a 7:45 pm walking tour of Harlingen led by our guide, Anya.

Harlingen

A replica of the historic ship, De Witte Swaen (the White Swan). Is being built in the marina at Harlingen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The first thing we see is a restoration of the De Witte Swaen (the White Swan). This was the famous vessel sailed by16th-century Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz when he discovered the Arctic archipelago of Spitsbergen (now known as Svalbard) and Bear Island. He then sailed onward to the Russian archipelago of Nova Zembla, where, in 1596, the ship got stuck in the ice and they were forced to stay the winter. Barentsz did not survive, but 12 of the 17 crew were saved. Here, in the port of Harlingen, marine archaeologist Gerald de Weerdt is directing volunteers in building a genuine replica of the ship using 16th century techniques and materials. After years of work, his team is planning to finish the ship by year’s end. It will be sailed to Amsterdam and then returned here. Eventually, de Weerdt and his team want to retrace Barentsz’s voyage by sailing the vessel to Spitsbergen and Nova Zembla (hopefully with a better outcome).

Discovering Harlingen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Anya explains the complicated system of dykes and the dam built in 1932 which turned part of the Wadden Sea into a lake and from salt to fresh water, changing the ecology, and what was done to protect the fish migration from the changed ecosystem.

Discovering Harlingen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

She points out the architecture – the Celtic tradition of putting a symbol to protect the house from evil – and how 600 buildings in the town are protected for their historic significance.

Magnificent buildings like the elaborate City Hall show the wealth of this town.

Harlingen’s City Hall shows off the city’s wealth © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

As we have seen before, the biggest building, typically a church, was built on the highest point, to provide safety when the town flooded.  Holland broke with the Catholic Church of Spain and declared religious freedom when it won its independence after an 80-year war.

She notes that under Napoleon, who conquered the Netherlands in 1800 and installed his brother, Louis, as its first king (who ruled 1806-1810), every home had to replace the ornaments that showed a coat of arms or profession with a house number and street, and a registry was kept of names, religion and where they lived.

“In World War II, the Nazis could see where Jews lived” (one of the reasons why today, the Dutch are still concerned to protect private information on the internet).

“Stumbling stones” in front of a house in Harlingen © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Today, we see some of the ”stumbling stones” – square copper plates in the sidewalk -documenting the name of the Jews who lived in the home, “the last place they lived in freedom,” before being taken by Nazis to concentration camps. There are some 70,000 of these “stumbling stones” in Europe, about 7,000 in the Netherlands, Anya says.

I am reminded that after declaring its independence from Catholic Spain in 1581, Holland instituted religious freedom and Jews, who suffered Spain’s Inquisition, were able to practice relatively openly. Rembrandt lived in Amsterdam’s Jewish Quarter, a short distance from where the Grand Synagogue was built. When Jews went to New Amsterdam in 1654,then a trading post of the Dutch West India Company. Governor Peter Stuyvesant wanted to evict the Jews, but the company required him to let the Jews stay. (This is all brought back when I visit two exhibits currently on view in New York City: “New York at Its Core: Port City (1609-1898)” at the Museum of the City of New York and “The Book of Esther in the Age of Rembrandt,” at the Jewish Museum.)

More information, Boat Bike Tours, www.boatbiketours.com, 203-814-1249.s

Next: Boat Bike Tours’ Netherlands Islandhopping: Exploring the Solar System through an 18th Century Lens

See also:

SETTING SAIL ON BOAT BIKE TOURS’ ISLANDHOPPING TOUR TO THE WADDEN SEA

BOATBIKETOURS’ NETHERLANDS ISLANDHOPPING: THE TEXEL ROADS YIELDS UP ITS TREASURE

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_feature

New York Historical’s ‘Blacklisted: An American Story’ Offers Sobering Lessons for Today

“Swearing Loyalty.” The New York Historical’s new exhibit, “Blacklisted: An American Story,” the anti-democratic scourge that developed out of the post-World War II Red Scare, brings to light horrifying parallels to today. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Get out of the heat this summer and feel your blood boil – come to The New York Historical’s new exhibit, “Blacklisted: An American Story” and be horrified when you recognize that the assault on free speech, free association, free press, democracy, due process and Rule of Law happening today has happened before in the United States, and not all that long ago.

The intersection of politics, art, and culture that shaped America’s Red Scare is showcased in Blacklisted: An American Story, a traveling exhibit created by the Jewish Museum Milwaukee, on view at the New York Historical through October 19. Expanded by The Historical, the exhibition builds on the story of the Red Scare and the blacklisting of screenwriters and directors known as the Hollywood Ten, along with countless others who were impacted. Blacklisted shows how global politics and concerns over the Cold War were used to justify antisemitic, racist and anti-worker crackdowns domestically, and how the government crushed artistic expression in the 1940s and 1950s to reverse social justice movements simply by branding everything and anyone “Communist.”

Joe Gilford, son of Jack Gilford and Madeleine Lee (both blacklisted); Molly Trumbo Gingras, granddaughter of Oscar-winning blacklisted screenwriter Dalton Trumbo, with greatgrandaughter Judith); Julie Garfield, actor John Garfield’s daughter; Dr. Louise Mirrer, president and CEO of The New York Historical; Kate Lardner, daughter of blacklisted Ring Lardner); Katie Unger (whose grandfather Abraham Unger was forced to testify before McCarthy and held in contempt). at the opening reception of “Blacklisted: An American Story” on view at The New York Historical through October 19 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

“Our aim with Blacklisted is to prompt visitors to think deeply about democracy and their role in it,” stated Dr. Louise Mirrer, president and CEO of The New York Historical. “The exhibition tackles fundamental issues like freedom of speech, religion, and association, inviting reflection on how our past informs today’s cultural and political climate.”

When the exhibit was first developed in 2016 by the Jewish Museum Milwaukee and opened in 2018, “no one could have anticipated” how uncomfortably close to what is taking place in the United States today, with book bans, loyalty oaths, people seized from the street by masked men without badges or warrant, shutting down of research and education, and the attacks – a la Cultural Revolution – on academics, scientists, intellectuals, lawyers and journalists, while political violence and terror is allowed to surge.

“We also couldn’t have anticipated the rise of antisemitism now, as then,” Mirrer said at the opening reception. “This is an uncannily timely and meaningful show that hopes to teach about courage and American traditions, and how precious our democracy is.” She said she hoped the exhibition would spark “discourse as we think about who we are as Americans. History has power to change lives.”

Civil Rights Congress, America’s “Thought Police”: Record of the Un-American Activities Committee, 1947. Courtesy of the Unger Family

The exhibit, which makes starkly clear the connection between the “anti-Communist” crusade and the link with antisemitism, racism and anti-unionism, generated some revelations for the Jewish Museum Milwaukee exhibit curator Ellie Gettinger, who we met at an opening reception at New York Historical in front of the section noting the Blacklist never actually ended, it just gradually faded into disuse.

“People think the Red Scare was McCarthy, but we showed it was not one individual, it was so many – in government, in industry, so many throughout American society,” Gettinger said. Why weren’t the people who were persecuted protected by the First Amendment? “Because it wasn’t the government doing the blacklisting. It was the industry. Even the Hollywood studios controlled by Jews.”

“People think the Red Scare was McCarthy, but we showed it was not one individual, it was so many – in government, in industry, so many throughout American society,” said Ellie Gettinger who curated the “Blacklisted” exhibit for the Jewish Museum Milwaukee © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

She reflected, “In 2018, so many were shocked [by the exhibit and parallels to today]. People are really disturbed now, feeling politically impotent and overwhelmed. We have to keep fighting.”

Just as today, a culture that engendered empathy, compassion and understanding of others became the enemy of those who wanted to keep power and profit. It is no accident that Trump and the MAGAs have effectively rendered illegal so-called DEI (diversity, equity, inclusion) and CRT (critical race theory) in school curricula, admissions and hiring, going after academia, corporations, research institutions, legal firms, and media.

The Blacklist was largely antisemitic because Eastern European immigrant Jews were social justice activists at their core, were identified with Bolshevik Russia, and were considered the rabble rousers for workers rights, union rights, civil rights and voting rights. Jewish immigrants led the formation of the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU), in 1900, organizing major strikes in 1909 and 1910 and reaction to the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in 1911 which lead to better wages, working hours, and safety standards for garment workers and advocated for social needs, educational opportunities and health services – issues that then as now were branded “communist.”

“The Blacklist flourished when political and corporate interests superseded First Amendment rights. Freedoms of speech, association and assembly – all protected under the First Amendment – became casualties. Each of the three branches of government – executive, legislative and judicial-prioritized national security over civil liberties. Their actions exposed the dangers of unchecked political power in the US. Numerous industries purged employees suspected of being sympathetic to communism. Hundreds of people lost their jobs, and thousands stood by silently, afraid of jeopardizing future employment.

“Supporters and critics of the Blacklist both claimed they were fulfilling their patriotic duty. The Hollywood Blacklist shaped the nation’s political and cultural landscape for decades to come.”

The parallels to today are terrifying – including the capitulation of media moguls like Mark Zuckerberg (Facebook), Jeff Bezos (Washington Post); Shari Redstone (who controls CBS) and Robert Iger (CEO of The Walt Disney Company, which owns ABC).

Impact of the Blacklist: “I’m a man of a thousand faces, and all of them are Blacklisted,” stated actor Zero Mostel.

The Blacklist impacted, even destroyed lives but also society in its quest to assert White Christo Fascist cultural foundation (they could call it whatever they like, but that’s what it was).

We meet Julie Garfield in front of the portrait of her father, John Garfield, she lent to the exhibit, an acclaimed, dashing Hollywood leading man who starred in such patriotic films as “Pride of the Marines” (the uniform he wore in that movie is on display). She wrote her father’s blacklisting “killed him, it really killed him. He was under unbelievable stress. Phones were being tapped. He was being followed by the FBI. He hadn’t worked in 18 months. He was finally supposed to do ‘Golden Boy’ on CBS with Kim Stanley. They did one scene. And then CBS cancelled it. He died a day or two later.”

Julie Garfield, standing in front of a portrait of her father, the actor John Garfield who starred in such films as “Pride of the Marines,” said being blacklisted ultimately pushed jim to suicide © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

There is a list of those who “whether by heart attack or suicide, all were killed by the relentless pressures of inquisition,” wrote Alvah Bessie, screenwriter and one of the Hollywood Ten.

Blacklisted features more than 150 artifacts, including historical newspaper articles, film clips, testimony footage, telegrams, playbills, court documents, film costumes, movie posters, scripts, and artwork.

Among the personal objects on view are Blacklisted screenwriter Dalton Trumbo’s Academy Award Oscars for Roman Holiday— originally awarded only to co-writer Ian McLellan Hunter since Trumbo was prohibited from working in film under his own name—and The Brave One, awarded to the fictitious Robert Rich (one of his pseudonyms). Trumbo finally received his Oscar for “The Brave One” in 1975, 20 years after it had been awarded and his wife, Cleo Trumbo, accepted his Oscar for “Roman Holiday” posthumously in 1993, 40 years after the film’s release.

Also on view is Lauren Bacall’s costume from How to Marry a Millionaire, a 1953 film released during the height of the Blacklist. Bacall was one of the founding members of the Committee for the First Amendment, which initially supported the Hollywood Ten. Unlike other committee members, Bacall was able to work steadily until her death.

The exhibit draws clear connections between antisemitism and racism at the heart of the “Red Scare” “The House Committee on Un-American Activities (HUAC) included avowed segregationists and antisemites, with the larger objective of “the preservation of the established social order disrupted by New Deal initiatives and World War II,” On display is a pamphlet, “Today…Hollywood. Tomorrow…the Whole Country.”

“HUAC members Rep. John Rankin (D-Mississippi) and Rep. John S.Wood (D-Georgia) advanced a reactionary white supremist agenda.” Rankin defended the Ku Klux Klan’s racial violence and terror, asserting “the KKK is an old American institution.” Wood added “threats and intimidations of the Klan are an old American custom, like illegal whiskey-making.”

But the Red Scare did not begin in the post World-War II era with fear of the Soviet Union getting the nuclear bomb. The first Red Scare came after World War I (simultaneous with the Bolshevik Revolution in Russia), with a crackdown on immigrants and political dissidents. The Espionage Act of 1917 became the basis for censoring publications; a year later, the Sedition Act made it illegal to speak or write about the US government with “contempt, scorn or disrepute” – legislation the Trump administration is drawing upon to deport migrants and quash dissent.

In 1919 and 1920, the crackdown on dissent and free speech intensified (note: the war had already ended in 1918) and was used the power to go after union organizers and those upholding workers rights, many of whom were Eastern European Jewish immigrants. Attorney General A. Mitchell Palmer authorized federal raids of labor and “radical” organizations, arresting more than 5,000 and deporting hundreds of immigrant activists, including Emma Goldman.

We associate the era with Senator Joseph McCarthy, but as the exhibit points out, McCarthy “was only one of many who used the politics of Red-baiting to gain political leverage and power.” (McCarthy’s claim to fame was his crusade to root out alleged communists in the State Department, but he actually had little to do with the Hollywood blacklist.)

The creatives who became known as the Hollywood Ten were largely successful film industry people. During World War II, each contributed to the war effort in meaningful ways, developing films that combined patriotic plots with a social conscience such as “Tender Comrades” written by Dalton Trumbo; “Pride of the Marines,” written by Albert Maltz and starting John Garfield; and ‘Crossfire,” produced by Adrian Scott and directed by Edward Dmytryk. But all 10 had at some point been members of the Communist Party of the USA (CPUSA) because of its advocacy of workers’ rights and social justice. The list included Alvah Bessie, Herbert Biberman, Lester Cole, Ring Lardner Jr., John Howard Lawson, Samuel Ornitz, and Adrian Scott in addition to Dmytryk, Maltz and Trumbo.

The Hollywood Ten were found in contempt of Congress for refusing to answer questions, and sentenced to prison for up to one year. The claim of First Amendment protection was rejected by the lower court and by the time their case reached the Supreme Court, two liberal members died and the Court declined to hear their case.

“Guilty until proven innocent,” one section proclaims unnervingly in light of today’s events, as we see people being rounded up by masked goons and thrown into jails or deported to third countries without the ability to prove their innocence or exercise the Constitution’s right to due process. “The role of hearsay and the assumption of guilt in the hearings became central to the ongoing operation of the Hollywood Blacklist throughout the 1950s…HUAC’s targets had no recourse, they could not sue for libel or challenge the damage to their reputations and livelihoods.” They were even blacklisted if they asserted their Fifth Amendment right.

It is shocking to see films that were tagged for blacklisting:

The film “The Best Years of Our Lives” was deemed subversive for portraying the upper class in a bad light and the banker as a mean, avaricious individual © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

“The Best Years of Our Lives” that won seven Academy Awards was blacklisted, prompting Gene Kelly to write, “Were you subverted by it? Did it make you Un-American?” The FBI analysis drew upon producer Cecil B. Demille’s assessment that “this picture portrayed the ‘upper class in a bad light.’” The FBI noted, “The banker was portrayed as a mean, avaricious individual,” and that the film contained communist propaganda and “subversive half-truths.”

The iconic Christmas movie “It’s a Wonderful Life,” was branded subversive for discrediting bankers © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Imagine, “It’s a Wonderful Life,” was deemed “subversive!” “This picture represents a rather obvious attempt to discredit bankers,” the FBI analysis stated.

“Gentleman’s Agreement,” which revealed pervasive anti-Semitism wasblacklisted for its “deliberate effort to discredit law enforcement.” © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Best picture winner “Gentleman’s Agreement,“ starring Gregory Peck, Dorothy McGuire and John Garfield, in which Peck plays a journalist who poses as a Jew to expose antisemitism, was blacklisted. It’s blacklist connections included Director Elia Kazan (who named names), and blacklisted actors John Garfield (who was actually Jewish) and Anne Revere. It ran afoul, the FBI analysis claimed, because “A Police Lieutenant is party to antisemitism and as such is subjected to much criticism…This was a deliberate effort to discredit law enforcement.”

Being blacklisted ultimately pushed actor John Garfield, who starred in such films as “Pride of the Marines,” to suicide © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

“Pride of the Marines” was blacklisted for screenwriter Albert Maltz and actor John Garfield. The FBi Analysis noted “’Maltz’ had the actors say everything possible to ‘provoke doubts’ concerning representative government and free enterprise; they accused employers of everything from racial prejudice to a conspiracy to scuttle the GI Bill of Rights.”

Even “High Noon,” starring Gary Cooper who won Best Actor, was blacklisted because its screenwriter, Carl Foreman, “invoked his privilege under the Fifth Amendment… in connection with this Communist affiliations.”

This being New York City, the New York Historical put its own stamp on the exhibit with a reference to the 1920s anti-immigrant (antisemitic) Palmer raids and Emma Goldman’s deportation, and a whole section on New York Theater and the Blacklist, in which it is shown that the city’s theater community pushed back.

The Red Scare was as much as about stopping the progress of civil rights as it was antisemitic and anti-union © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear

“Broadway and the theater became a vital space for creative expression and social commentary. Though many Blacklisted artists still struggled financially, theater became an indispensable source of employment for those barred from movies and television. Some also performed for receptive audiences at labor unions, local synagogues, and community organizations across New York City.”

Playwright Arthur Miller, so famous for his Tony Award-winning play, ”The Crucible,” in which the Salem witch trials were a metaphor for McCarthyism, wrote, “We are at times ruled by the collective fear of each other and of those who may take away our rights and persecute us.”

Broadway and the broader theater community, we learn, never adopted a formal Blacklist. The labor union Actors Equity Association charted a different path from that the forcefully anti-communist Screen Actors Guild (SAG ). While there were anticommunist factions among the membership, Actors Equity passed a resolution in 1951 condemning the Blacklist, arguing that blacklisting “by its very nature is based on secrecy and prejudiced judgment and results in conviction by accusation.’ The following year, Actors Equity began including anti-Blacklist language in its contracts, a practice that continues to this day.”

So while there are those who look at what is happening as people are grabbed off the street by thugs without badges wearing masks, without court order or anything resembling due process, effectively guilty without the ability to prove innocence and say “this isn’t who we are as Americans,” the truth is, yes it is. There has always been this strain of bigoted, racist, sexist, anti=democratic evil, often masquerading as “religion” and “patriotism”. The task is for the forces of the “all are created equal” faction to beat it back and reestablish the civil liberties we claim make America “exceptional.”

The New York Historical, 170 Central Park West (77th Street), New York, NY 10024, 212-873-3400, nyhistory.org.

Jewish Museum: Social Activist Ben Shahn and “The Book of Esther in the Age of Rembrandt”

Ben Shahn, an immigrant Jew from Lithuania who devoted his life to depicting social justice, saw the execution of Sacco and Vanzetti as a modern-day crucifixion, on view at the Jewish Museum © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

A brilliant companion to “Blacklisted,” is the exhibit at the Jewish Museum, Ben Shahn, On Nonconformity, who used his art for social justice in ways that are unnervingly relevant today. The 175 artworks and objects from the 1930s to the 1960s show how this prolific and progressive artist chronicled and confronted crucial issues from the Great Depression to the Vietnam War, to Civil Rights and Workers Rights. (On view through Oct. 12).

 
Rembrandt’s depiction of Queen Esther, is part of the “Book of Esther in the Time of Rembrandt” exhibit on view at the Jewish Museum© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Also, a phenomenal exhibit, “The Book of Esther in the Age of Rembrandt,” (on view through Aug. 10) shows how the story of Queen Esther resonated with the Dutch in this time. “The Dutch interpreted the story of Esther’s bravery as a symbol of the Netherlands’ newly won independence from Spain. Rembrandt was part of a larger cultural trend that reimagined this story for the new century, new secular art market, and new national purpose,” write Abigail Rapoport, curator of Judaica Jewish Museum, and Michele Frederick, curator of European Art, North Carolina museum of Art, Raleigh.

Jewish Museum, 1109 5th Ave &, E 92nd St,  thejewishmuseum.org, (212) 423-3200; free admission on Saturday.

Anne Frank The Exhibition 

If at all possible, get tickets to see Anne Frank: The Exhibition.

Standing in Anne Frank’s tiny room in The Annex where she and her family hid from the Nazis for two years, personalizes the Holocaust. This immersion into a full-scale re-creation of the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam is part of a landmark “Anne Frank The Exhibition,” now on view at the Center for Jewish History in New York City © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com.

Anne Frank The Exhibition, on view at the Center for Jewish History through October, is the first time that the Anne Frank House presents a pioneering experience outside of Amsterdam to immerse visitors in a full-scale recreation of the Annex rooms, fully furnished, where Anne Frank, her parents and sister, and four other Jews spent two years hiding to evade Nazi capture. Four exhibition galleries immerse visitors in place and history through video, sound, photography, and animation; and more than 100 original collection items from the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam.  Anne Frank The Exhibition provides an opportunity to learn about Anne Frank not as a victim but through the multifaceted lens of her life—as a girl, a writer, and a symbol of resilience and strength. Tickets at AnneFrankExhibit.org. Center for Jewish History, 15 West 16th Street, New York, cjh.org

See: LANDMARK ANNE FRANK THE EXHIBITION IN NYC PERSONALIZES HOLOCAUST AS NEVER BEFORE

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_feature

Summer in the City Offers Cornucopia of Mostly Free Cultural Happenings, Festivals, Events

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is a centerpiece for the annual Museum Mile Festival © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

The annual Museum Mile Festival is one of the biggest block parties anywhere © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

New York City’s summer cultural season kicks off with the 47th Annual Museum Mile Festival – the Big Apple’s “biggest block party”–on Tuesday, June 10, from 6 to 9 pm, rain or shine. Walk the mile on Fifth Avenue between 82nd Street and 104th Street and visit eight of New York City’s finest cultural institutions, open free during these extended hours: The Metropolitan Museum of Art (82nd St); Neue Galerie New York(86th St); Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum (89th St); Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum (91st St); The Jewish Museum (92nd St); Museum of City of New York (mcny.org,103rd St.); El Museo del Barrio (104th St.); and The Africa Center (109th St). Neighbohood partners participating include the New York Academy of Medicine, the Church of the Heavenly Rest, Asia Society, and AKC Museum of the Dog join in this celebration. Arrive early and target your priority museums first because this extremely popular event draws huge crowds, which makes the fabulous street entertainment all the more appreciated. Children’s activity guides (and chalk for street art!) available. (https://www.nyctourism.com/events/museum-mile-festival/)

Body art outside the Guggenheim Museum, one of the street happenings during the Museum Mile Festival © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
There are two weekends of opportunity to get into the swing of the Gatsby-esque Jazz Age Lawn Party on Governors Island, June 14-15 and August 9-10. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Jazz Age Lawn Party on Governors Island (11 am-5 pm, June 14-15 and August 9-10. 11 am-5 pm), starts with a magical ferry ride from Battery Park or the Brooklyn Navy Yard. People come dressed to the 9s in 1920s/Gatsby-style outfits, bringing picnics and take part in the music and zeitgeist of the 1920s. With music and dancing led by festival founder and host Michael Arenella & His Dreamland Orchestra and a score of other entertainers.  Entertainments are interspersed with fun events like dance lessons and a period bathing suit contest. This isn’t free. Tickets and info at https://jazzagelawnparty.com. (Reserve a ride on the ferry, from South Street or Brooklyn to access the location, https://www.govisland.com/plan-your-visit/ferry)

One of the most popular and iconic of New York City’s rich summer cultural calendar is The New York Philharmonic Concerts in the Parks, Presented by Didi and Oscar Schafer, taking place this year June 4-7 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The New York Philharmonic Concerts in the Parks, Presented by Didi and Oscar Schafer, take place June 4–7, 2025. Gustavo Dudamel leads the series for the first time. Dudamel conducts the NY Phil in four free outdoor concerts at the Great Lawn in Central Park, Manhattan (June 4); Van Cortlandt Park, Bronx (June 5); Prospect Park, Brooklyn (June 6); and Cunningham Park, Queens (June 7); program to be announced. These performances begin at 8:00 p.m. and conclude with fireworks. (Following the Concerts in the Parks, New York Philharmonic musicians perform a free indoor concert,on June 8, at 4 p.m., at St. George Theatre in Staten Island.) 

Lincoln Center’s fourth annual Summer for the City, offers hundreds of free and Choose-What-You-Pay performances and cultural activities from June 11–August 9, including performances of the Festival Orchestra of Lincoln Center at Choose-What-You-Pay prices. (Schedule, https://www.lincolncenter.org/series/summer-for-the-city.

Public Theater’s cherished Free Shakespeare in the Park, returns to the iconic, revitalized Delacorte Theater in Central Park after a nomadic season, performing ‘Twelth Night” August 7-Sept. 14. The star-studded cast includes stars b (Antonio), Bill Camp (Sir Toby Belch), Khris Davis (Orsino), Peter Dinklage (Malvolio), Jesse Tyler Ferguson (Andrew Aguecheek), Junior Nyong’o (Sebastian), Lupita Nyong’o (Viola), Sandra Oh (Olivia), Daphne RubinVega (Maria), and Moses Sumney (Feste). Famously, tickets are available for that day at distribution points in Central Park and the boros, a daily digital lottery (TodayTix), and standby line at the Delacorte. But you can get a reserved seat by becoming a Supporter Plus with a gift of $300 or more (with year-round benefits). To learn more, or to make a contribution: 212.967.7555 or visit publictheater.org, https://publictheater.org/productions/season/2425/fsitp/twelfth-night/

The Delacorte reopens in July with a full schedule of tours, special events, and performances (For a full list of reopening events, visit publictheater.org/about/forever-public.)

In June 2025, the Public Theater’s Mobile Unit will tour a new production of Much Ado About Nothing, directed by Rebecca Martinez, across all five boroughs. From August 28 – September 1, Public Works will present an adaptation of PERICLES, with music and lyrics by Troy Anthony and directed by Carl Cofield at The Cathedral of St. John the Divine.

A very different Shakespeare-in-the-park experience comes from New York Classical Theatre, which creates and reinvigorates audiences for the theater by presenting free productions of popular and forgotten classical plays in public spaces throughout the City. This season, see Shakespeare’s “All’s Well that Ends Well”. Free performances are Tuesday-Sunday, 7 pm, at Central Park (June 3-22, with special evenings June 4, Bring Your Dog Night at 6:30; Family Nights, June 12, 21, 26, July 1; Pride Night, June 20); Carl Schurz Park (June 24-29), and Battery Park (July 1-6).  Tickets are free, but you need to reserve. Nyclassical.org, info@nyclassical.org.

City Parks Foundation’s 2025 season of Capital One City Parks Foundation SummerStage, New York City’s iconic outdoor performing arts festival, is bringing more than 70 free and benefit shows to Central Park and 13 neighborhood parks across the five boroughs. Returning for its 39th year, the festival showcases established and emerging artists, highlighting an expansive array of talent, from diverse performances from across the globe to artists serving as curators to iconic DJs showcasing cultural sonic journeys and features a multitude of genres including jazz, hip-hop, indie-rock, salsa, reggae, Afrobeat, soul, pop, global, contemporary dance. Performances are free and open to the public, with the exception of ticketed benefit concerts in Central Park (www.SummerStage.org).

Bryant Park’s Picnic Performances, presented by Bank of America, is a free summer concert series May 30-Sept. 13 featuring music, dance, theater performances and movie screenings offering a diverse lineup of artists and performances from NYC cultural institutions (https://bryantpark.org/activities/picnic-performances)

Highlights:

New York City Opera (June 26 & 27, Opera Goes to Hollywood; Sept. 4, 5, Carmen)

Contemporary Dance (June 5-Limon Dance Company; June 6, 13; )

Jazz Mobile  (June 14)

Emerging Music Festival (June 20, 21)

New York Guitar Festival, July 3 & 4

Carnegie Hall Citywide (July 11, 18, 25, Aug 1, 8

World Music Institute (Aug. 15)

New York City Circus Festival (Aug. 16)

Belongo (Aug 22)

Accordians Around the World (Aug 29)

The Town Hall (Aug 30)

American Symphony Orchestra (Sept 12)

Free seating is first-come, first-served, so arrive early (performances start at 7 pm) and bring your blanket to sit on. Food is available for sale. (https://bryantpark.org/activities/picnic-performances for schedule, bryantpark.org)

The Highline is not only a stunning art-filled garden affording incredible views of the city’s skyline, but is also a concert venue © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The High Line isn’t only one of the city’s most enchanting places – an elevated garden trail lined with art installations that zigs and zags amid modern windowed high rises – it is also an open-air theater,  music and events venue (Star Gazing, Vinyl Nights, docent-led High Line Tour), throughout the year. A perpetual “happening.”  (https://www.thehighline.org/art/performances/) or doNYC

Hudson River Park turns its four-mile riverfront into a cultural mecca with hundreds of free and exciting events, from sunset dance parties and live music to hands-on science and waterfront workouts. Expanded offerings this summer include six nights of Broadway-caliber performances with Broadway By The Boardwalk at Clinton Cove, and the debut of Science After Dark, a new series that invites curious adults to explore local ecology and learn from experts while socializing in unique Park settings. The crowd-favorite series, Jazz at Pier 84 presents star-studded musicians bringing smooth tunes to the Park at sunset.  Pier 45 offers Dance Is Life! in July hosted by The Ladies of Hip Hop. Sunset Salsa returns to Pier 76 in July with lessons led by world-renowned dancers, offering instruction to everyone, from novices to advanced dancers, followed by an open dance party. https://hudsonriverpark.org/https://hudsonriverpark.org/the-park/piers-and-places/

The magical Little Island in Hudson River Park is a concert venue during the summer © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Little Island is a magical place that must be experienced (really recommend you listen to the free audio tour describing its landscape design).  From June through September, Little Island presents over 110 performances across dance, music, theater, dance and opera ($25 tickets at littleisland.org and https://www.todaytix.com/nyc/category/little-island). In addition, there are free concerts Wednesday-Sunday in the Glade. With over 110 performances across music, theater, dance, opera and more, it’s the ultimate outdoor stage for New York’s best artists. (Tickets, https://www.todaytix.com/nyc/category/little-island)

The Perelman Performing Arts Center (PAC NYC) is presenting the New York premiere of Passengers, a theater, circus and dance experience © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The Perelman Performing Arts Center (PAC NYC) is presenting the New York premiere of Passengers, a theater, circus and dance experience written, directed and choreographed by Tony Award® nominee Shana Carroll (Water for Elephants). Performances begin June 12 with an opening on June 15, for a limited run through June 29, 2025. Montréal’s acclaimed contemporary physical theater troupe The 7 Fingers express their hopes and dreams through an astonishing blend of cirque, music, and dance, telling human stories with superhuman skills. Poetic goodbyes. Anticipatory reunions. Fateful encounters. Each moment unfolds with breathtaking wonder and heartwarming storytelling. Performances are at PAC, 251 Fulton St. Tickets start at $30 and are available online at PACNYC.org or by calling 212-266-3000. (PAC NYC offers $30 ticket savings programs for audiences under 30, responders and educators. Student discounts of up to 50% are also available.)

Not-to-Be-Missed Exhibits

No surprise that in response to overwhelming demand, the Anne Frank House is extending its world premiere presentation of Anne Frank The Exhibition at the Center for Jewish History in New York City through October 31, 2025 Tickets book up well in advance  © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

No surprise that in response to overwhelming demand, the Anne Frank House is extending its world premiere presentation of Anne Frank The Exhibition at the Center for Jewish History in New York City through October 31, 2025. Originally scheduled for just three months, tickets sold out within one week of opening on January 27, 2025, demonstrating the demand for this extraordinary experience. Anne Frank The Exhibition is the first time the Anne Frank House presents a pioneering experience outside of Amsterdam to immerse visitors in a full-scale recreation of the Annex rooms, fully furnished (unlike Amsterdam), where Anne Frank, her parents and sister, and four other Jews spent two years hiding to evade Nazi capture. Four exhibition galleries immerse visitors in place and history through video, sound, photography and animation; and more than 100 original collection items from the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam. Anne Frank The Exhibition shows Anne Frank not as a victim but through the multifaceted lens of her life—as a girl, a writer, and a symbol of resilience and strength. This is a story inspired by one of the most translated books in the world. Timed entry tickets are available at AnneFrankExhibit.org. Center for Jewish History, 15 West 16th Street, New York, N.Y. between 5th and 6th Avenues, https://goingplacesfarandnear.com/landmark-anne-frank-the-exhibition-in-nyc-personalizes-holocaust-as-never-before/

Opening June 13, The New York Historical highlights the intersection of politics, art, and culture that shaped America’s Red Scare in Blacklisted: An American Story, on view June 13-October 19, 2025  (credit: Civil Rights Congress, America’s “Thought Police”: Record of the Un-American Activities Committee, 1947. Courtesy of the Unger Family)

The New York Historical’s newest exhibit, Blacklisted: An American Story, an Exhibition Examining the Red Scare, the Hollywood Blacklist, and Its Impact on American Culture, on view June 13 – October 19. Blacklisted captures the tensions of the domestic Cold War, revealing how global politics infiltrated America’s entertainment industry in the late 1940s and 50s through a government crackdown on artistic expression. New York’s first museum, New York Historical (formerly New-York Historical Society) is a leading cultural institution covering 400 years of American history. A museum of museums and a collection of collections (the Tiffany lamps are exquisite), it is home to the Patricia D. Klingenstein Library, the Center for Women’s History, the DiMenna Children’s History Museum, and the future American LGBTQ+ Museum.  The New York Historical, 170 Central Park West (77th Street), New York, NY 10024, 212-873-3400, nyhistory.org.

The Gilder Center at the American Museum of Natural History transports to other worlds © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

The American Museum of Natural History is presenting  Apex: The Largest Stegosaurus Ever Discovered, one of the largest and most complete stegosaurus fossils ever found, a 150-million year old stegosaurus measuring 27 feet long and 11.5 feet tall, discovered in Dinosaur, Colorado, through 2028. A destination that takes you to other worlds, Richard Gilder Center for Science, Education, and Innovation at the American Museum of Natural History offers fabulous innovative exhibitions. Admission by timed entry, reserved online. Open daily, 10 am–5:30 pm. American Museum of Natural History, 200 Central Park West, 212-769-5606, amnh.org.

The week before the start of the US Tennis Open in Flushing Meadows. Queens, you not only can see exciting qualifying rounds, but watch tennis greats practicing, like Rafael Nadal © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

If Summer in the City starts with the Museum Mile Festival, for me, it finishes with the US Open Tennis Championships, the fourth and final Grand Slam tournament of the year. The tournament dates back to 1881, and since 1978, the tournament has found its home at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in Queens’ Flushing Meadows Corona Park, a magnet for the best tennis talent worldwide .The tournament takes place August 24–September 7. Insiders tip: the week before, it is free to watch the thrilling play of the qualifiers’ tournament, and see the tennis stars practice. (usopen.org, https://tickets-center.com/search/US-Open-Tennis-tickets/)

For more to do and see in New York City, including information on free museums and exhibits and walking tours and arts and entertainment on a budget, visit nyctourism.com.

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Annual Cycle the Erie Canalway Bike Tour is All the More Special During 200th Anniversary Celebration

The annual eight-day Parks & Trails Cycle the Erie Canalway bike tour from Buffalo to Albany is 400 miles and 400 years of history but this year’s ride July 12-20, 2025 is particularly special because it marks the 200th anniversary of the opening of the Erie Canal in 1825 NY © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

By Karen Rubin, Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

The annual eight-day Parks & Trails Cycle the Erie Canalway bike tour from Buffalo to Albany is 400 miles and 400 years of history but this year’s ride July 12-20, 2025 is particularly special because it marks the 200th anniversary of the opening of the Erie Canal in 1825. An engineering marvel of its time that transformed the United States, all along the way, riders will enjoy special events and celebrations.

The Erie Canal propelled the Industrial Revolution, opened the frontier, united the country, birthed canal towns and cities, and made New York City a financial capital of the world.

You see all of this unfolding from the first mile out of Buffalo  and over the course of eight days of riding (averaging 50 miles a day), filled with activities and camaraderie.

Cycle the Erie Canalway participants experience one of the best trails in America as they cycle through historic canal villages and discover the small-town charm of upstate New York that makes people like us Downstaters marvel, “This is New York!” Along the way, canal historians and local experts will introduce riders to the people, places and things that make the Erie Canal so important to the history of New York and the nation during its Bicentennial Year. Cyclists pedal between 40 and 60 miles per day on the mostly flat (but it seems the campsites tend to be at the highest point of a town) and mostly traffic-free Erie Canalway Trail, and visit some of Upstate New York’s most iconic attractions, such as the Women’s Rights National Historic Park in Seneca Falls and Fort Stanwix in Rome, a full-scale fort recreation from the French and Indian War.

The Parks & Trails NY tour is actually one of my favorite bike rides in the world – for the scenery, the sights along the way, the activities like lectures and museum visits that are arranged, the camaraderie of camping and riding together with some 650 cyclists from all over the country and all over the world, and the Erie Canalway itself –a  356 mile-long car-free recreational path that is the west-east part of New York State’s new 750-mile Empire Trail Network (the north-south trail network connects Battery Park at the tip of Manhattan to the Canadian border). Between the relatively flat nature and superb support provided, Cycle the Erie Canal offers unparalleled cycling for all ages and abilities (I’ve seen families with little ones in trailers or car seats and riders as young as 10 and as old as 92 bike on their own.)

Though there are bike tour operators (such as Wilderness Voyageurs and Pocono Biking) that offer inn-to-inn bike tours on portions of the Erie Canalway, this annual supported biking/camping trip, in its 27th year,  is organized by Parks & Trails New York, which for decades has successfully advocated to open these recreational trails and improve parks.

Each day’s ride is highlighted by fascinating attractions all along the Erie Canalway

Cycle the Erie Canalway cyclists are fascinated to see the famous “Flight of Five” series of five locks that brought boats 50 feet, an engineering marvel of its time that made the building of the canal possible. Cyclists on this year’s Parks & Trail NY ride will celebrate the 200th anniversary of the opening of Erie Canal © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

In Lockport, see the original engineering marvel that made the entire Erie Canal possible: the  famous “Flight of Five”, a staircase of five locks built to elevate boats through the then-impossible 50-foot Niagara Escarpment; take a cruise through the modern lock (the GE motors that run it are over 100 years old), explore underground sluiceways, caves and the “Upsidedown Bridge.”

Leaving the historic village of Medina, look for the tunnel under the Erie Canal, where you see that the Erie Canal is really like a bathtub.

The annual eight-day Parks & Trails Cycle the Erie Canalway bike tour from Buffalo to Albany is 400 miles and 400 years of history but this year’s ride July 12-20, 2025 is particularly special because it marks the 200th anniversary of the opening of the Erie Canal in 1825 NY © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Ride through New York’s Amish Country (who knew!) on the way to Seneca Falls, birthplace of the modern Women’s Rights movement and visit the Women’s Rights National Historic Park, National Women’s Hall of Fame (housed in a former knitting mill) and the Elizabeth Cady Stanton home (the museums stay open for us).

The knitting mill in Seneca Falls is fittingly now the home of the National Women’s Hall of Fame © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

You also get a taste of the women’s movement at the Peppermint Museum in Lyons (don’t miss it!) where you learn about the inventor, Hotchkiss’s daughter, a suffragist, who took over the company.

Get a taste of the women’s movement at the Peppermint Museum in Lyons where you learn about the inventor, Hotchkiss’s daughter, a suffragist, who took over the company. © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

On the way to Syracuse, stop at the Visitors Center at the Old Erie Canal Heritage Park at Port Byron, then pedal through the authentic enlarged Erie Canal Lock 52 to the c. 1895 Erie House Saloon, Blacksmith Shop, and Mule Barn; visit the Jordan Historical Society Museum, and ride on the towpath on an original aqueduct over Skaneateles Creek which takes you to Camillus’ Erie Canal Park where you stop at Sims Store, a re-creation of a 19th century general store (where riders are cheered for passing the half-way mark at 200 miles)

Parks & Trails NY’s Cycle Erie Canalway tour goes through New York’s Amish country © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

In Syracuse, visit the zoo, and the next morning, the Erie Canal Museum, the best of the Canal Museums along the way (they open especially for the cyclists)

On the way to Rome, visit the Chittenango Canal Museum and dry docks and the Canastota Canal Town Museum and see the spot where the first shovel of dirt was turned for “Clinton’s Ditch” (deliberately in the middle of the canal). Chittenango was also the birthplace in 1856 of L. Frank Baum, famous throughout the world as the creator of The Wizard of Oz and his mother-in-law Matilda Joslyn Gage, was a prominent women’s rights advocate, abolitionist, and writer, known for her radical views, derived largely from the Oneida women and her work alongside Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton in the women’s suffrage movement).

In Rome, camp at the restored Fort Stanwix National Monument, built during the French and Indian War, populated with costumed interpreters © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

In Rome, camp at the restored Fort Stanwix National Monument, built during the French and Indian War, populated with costumed interpreters, and learn how seemingly minor battles actually shaped the outcome of the American Revolution.

In Little Falls, explore the glacial potholes of Moss Island, a National Natural Landmark, and tour Revolutionary War General Herkimer’s home.

At Schoharie Crossing State Historic Site, once a trading post and a fort (they found the footprint after a hurricane), look where you can see all three Erie Canals (yes, 3 Erie Canals have been built).

Coming from Schenectady to the finish line in Albany, stop at Cohoes Falls, one of the most powerful falls east of the Rockies© Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com
 

Coming from Schenectady to the finish line in Albany, stop at Cohoes Falls, one of the most powerful falls east of the Rockies and a major challenge for Erie Canal engineers (a wonderful bookend with Niagara Falls in the west); visit Peebles Island State Park, where, during the Revolutionary War, American forces prepared defenses to make a final stand against the British, and finally, bike along the Hudson River into downtown Albany, New York State’s 300-year-old capital.

Registration for Cycle the Erie Canal includes camping accommodations each evening with restrooms and showers (even swimming pools and charging stations and the possibility of indoor camping); eight hearty breakfasts and six delicious dinners; two refreshment stops daily stocked with fruit, snacks and beverages; SAG support and baggage transport; daily cue sheets and marked routes; entertainment and historic presentations every evening; and guided tours of the Canal, historic sites, museums, other attractions, and expanded celebrations for the Canal’s 200th Anniversary.

The price for the eight-day ride, July 12-20, Buffalo to Albany is $1,300/adult, $700 (youth age 6-17), $300/child (5 and under). There is also a four-day version with an optional shuttle.

(Note: they arrange for parking in Albany ($120, at the Quackenbush Garage July 12-20, 2025), and a shuttle bus to Buffalo on July 12 ($120/rider), or oppositely, parking in Buffalo ($25) and a shuttle back from Albany to Buffalo at the end of the tour.)

Parks & Trails New York, which is celebrating its own 40th anniversary this year, is a leading statewide advocate working to create a network of parks, trails, and greenways so that New Yorkers can enjoy the outdoors close to home. Cycle the Erie Canal supports Parks & Trails New York’s work on the Erie Canalway Trail and on trails in communities throughout New York State.

The New York State Canal Corporation, the agency charged with operating, maintaining and promoting New York’s Canal System and the Canalway Trail, is the Premier State Sponsor of Cycle the Erie Canal. The Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor is the event’s Heritage Sponsor.

For more information on Cycle the Erie Canal, visit www.ptny.org/canaltour, email eriecanaltour@ptny.org or call 518-434-1583.

Erie Canal Bicentennial Events

The Cycle the Erie Canal bike tour, July 12-20, is one of the biggest events honoring the canal’s bicentennial, but there are many events happening in various towns and cities along the Canal:

On Fri., May 16, 2025, the Bicentennial Navigation season will kick off in Waterford, where the Canal meets the Hudson River, with a parade of vessels.

Fairport, one of the towns “birthed” by the Erie Canal, celebrates its 48th Canal Days June 6-8 © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com

Fairport, NY, the jewel of the Erie Canal, celebrates its 48th Canal Days from June 6-8, 2025. One of New York’s premier arts festivals features artisans, music, local cuisine and fun for all ages, and brings more than 100,000 visitors to this Rochester suburb.

Canal enthusiasts, historians, engineers, environmentalists, artists and travelers from around the world can attend The 2025 World Canals Conference from Sept. 21-25, 2025 in Buffalo, NY, complete with canal-themed excursions for participants, in addition to hours of learning, discussion and networking.

The Water Music NY: More Voices Festival returns in Summer 2025, with The Albany Symphony Orchestra performing free concerts across the entire New York State Canal System. The project is a collaboration of composers, local arts partners, cultural & educational institutions and community members fusing arts, cultural heritage, and contemporary issues to re-envision the past, present, and future of people and communities bordering the historic waterway.

For the grand finale, a replica of Seneca Chiefthe boat Governor Dewitt Clinton used for his inaugural Erie Canal journey to open the Canal in 1825, will set sail on September 24 and recreate the maiden voyage from Buffalo Canalside to the New York Harbor, making multiple stops along the way with celebratory events at each community stop including flotillas and a grand commemoration in New York City on October 25.

Can’t make it to the Parks & Trails NY Cycle the Erie Ride? The bike tour company, Wilderness Voyageurs offers a four-day inn to inn ride, New York Erie Canal West, that begins in Lockport and stays in places like the historic Genessee Country Inn (2025 tour dates: 6/30, 7/27, 8/10, 800-272-4141, wilderness-voyageurs.com).

Another company that offers inn-to-inn supported tour on the Erie Canalway is Pocono Biking (https://poconobiking.com/specialty-trips/6-day-erie-canal-bike-tour/). Also: Great American Bike Tours (949-424-5369, cycletheusa.com); Classic Adventures (800-777-8090, classicadventures.com); Noble Invention Bike Touring (844-424-5342, nobleinventionbiketouring.com); and 718 Outdoors (347-457-5760, 718c.com)

Erie Canal Adventures provides this one-of-a-kind experience with live-aboard, fully-equipped canal boats © Karen Rubin/goingplacesfarandnear.com 

Another extraordinary way to experience the Erie Canal is by a live-aboard canal boat! This European-style self-skippered houseboat that was specifically designed for the Erie Canal let’s you make your own way on the Erie Canal, going through locks and under the lift bridges, and experience the 200th anniversary of the canal just as it was then, by boat and bike. Erie Canal Adventures provides this one-of-a-kind experience with live-aboard, fully-equipped canal boats. Accommodating 2 to 6 people, each of these charming, easy-to-pilot boats features cozy bedrooms, kitchens, and bathrooms – cooking utensils, linens, fuel, mobile app and bikes. You get 3-4 hours of training, including safety training, systems, and navigational training (and how to go through the locks which are SO fun. You learn how to work the radio to call up to the lockmaster and the bridge operators to lift the bridges. And you tie up where you like. Erie Canal Adventures, 1125 Marina Parkway, Macedon NY  14502, (315) 986-3011, Option 1, allie@eriecanaladventures.com, ericcanaladventures.com.

More ways to experience the Erie Canal can be found at the Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor, https://eriecanalway.org/explore/cycling/cycling-resources

“This year, New York State is rich with opportunities to experience major milestone anniversaries, stay in new hotels and explore new museums and exhibits,” I LOVE NY Executive Director of Tourism Ross D. Levisaid. “The Bicentennial of the Erie Canal‘s completion can be celebrated throughout upstate communities, while downstate, New York City commemorates its 400th anniversary. The 100th anniversary of the Great Gatsby can be explored at Gold Coast mansions on Long Island, where the famous novel was set. For more information, visit iloveny.com

See also:

Cycle the Erie: 400 Miles & 400 Years of History Flow By on Canalway Bike Tour Across New York State

Cycle the Erie, Day 1: In Lockport, See Erie Canal Engineering Marvel, ‘Flight of Five’, Cruise Thru Double Locks, and Go Underground to Fathom Rise of Industrial Revolution

Cycle the Erie, Day 2-3: A Sequence of Charming Canaltowns, Pastoral Landscapes, Punctuated by City Birthed by ‘Mother of Cities’

Cycle the Erie, Day 4: Seneca Falls to Syracuse, Crossing Halfway Mark of 400-Mile Biketour

Cycle the Erie, Day 5: Deep Dive into The Erie Canal: ‘Mother of Cities’, Empire Builder, Wonder of the World

Cycle the Erie: At Fort Stanwix, Rome, Time Travel Back to America’s Colonial, Native American Past

Cycle the Erie, Days 6-7: Erie Canal Spurs Rise of America as Global Industrial Power

Cycle the Erie, Days 7-8: Schoharie Crossing, Mabee Farm, Cohoes Falls to Finish Line in Albany of 400-Mile BikeTour

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures

Museum Hopping and Shopping in Hanoi, Vietnam

Among the museums and sites to visit in Hanoi, Vietnam, the Temple of Literature, dedicated to Confucius, is still a pilgrimage site. © Geri Bain

by Geri Bain for Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Hanoi is the last stop on a 16-day journey through Vietnam and Cambodia with my 30-year-old daughter. We built our itinerary around a one-week AmaWaterways Mekong River cruise (AmaWaterways.com) which began with a pre-cruise stay in Ho Chi Minh City and finished with a post-cruise stay in Hanoi. Here are highlights of Hanoi:

We check into our hotel, the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, happy we decided to spend three days here before flying back to the U.S. The hotel’s Heritage Wing, where we are staying, completed a full renovation last year, maintaining its luxurious French Colonial feel. We are thrilled to find that our Metropole Suite is actually comprised of three rooms—a living room with comfy chairs and a couch that is a sofa-bed, a parlor/office and a master bedroom with a king-size bed, plus two oversized bathrooms with Toto smart toilets. A nice surprise are the two balconies with great city views. (www.sofitel-legend-metropole-hanoi.com)

The recently-renovated Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Heritage Wing, which opened in 1901, maintains its luxurious French Colonial feel. © Geri Bain
 

The oldest continuously operating hotel in Hanoi, the Sofitel Legend Metropole has a central location that allows us to walk to everything we want to do and offers a lovely pool and spa for recharging. Most of all, we love that the hotel’s rich history, decor, art collection and permanent “Path of History” exhibit create a kind of live-in history museum where we can relax and still feel immersed in the city. 

The hotel served as the official guest house for government guests and delegations under Ho Chi Minh. Walking through the hotel’s “Path of History” hall, we see that its list of past guests reads like a Who’s Who of the 20th and 21st century, from writers Somerset Maugham and Graham Greene to U.S. presidents. Photos of more recent political conclaves hosted here include a 2019 meeting between President Trump and Kim Jong Un.

We enjoy listening to traditional Vietnamese music as we enjoy a tasting menu of specialties from different regions of Vietnam at the hotel’s Spice Garden. © Geri Bain

In addition to the actual history exhibit, over the course of our stay, we take in the entire hotel as we would an art museum, studying the sculptures and scenes of contemporary and historic Hanoi that decorate the stairwells, lounges, and other public spaces of the hotel.

A tour of the hotel’s historic bomb shelter, free to hotel guests, turns out to be a much broader lesson in history. Our guide shows us photos of visiting diplomats and other hotel guests huddled in the small underground space during the Vietnam War (known as the American War in Vietnam); sometimes they were roused to retreat to the shelter multiple times a night. We also see heart-wrenching photos of the effects of the war on the city, its surroundings and its people.

We don helmets before descending into the bomb shelter where Jane Fonda, Joan Baez and other guests found safety during “American War” bombings of the city. © Geri Bain

Especially haunting is standing in the shelter and listening to the song “Where are you now, my son?” by Joan Baez, putting words to her experience when she emerged to witness the devastation caused by bombings.

We come to the Hoa Lo Prison expecting to learn about the American POWs held here during the Vietnam War, most famously John McCain. Facetiously called the “Hanoi Hilton” for the torture and harsh treatment that McCain and other American soldiers received here, the small area of displays and videos of happy Christmas moments and proclamations of how well they were treated is startling.

Hoa Lo Prison was built by the French to quell political uprisings; it had the opposite effect. © Geri Bain

But that exhibit is only a smidgen of the museum. Its main message is the cruelty of French colonial days. We learn that the prison was built by the French Colonial government in 1896 for political prisoners. We see a portable guillotine, torture instruments and a life-size recreation of a room lined by prisoners shackled side-by-side on long concrete slabs. The museum is mainly dedicated to the horrific treatment of the Vietnamese at the hands of the French, to the heroes who lived and died here, and to the communist education and revolutionary fervor that fomented here, making the Hoa Lo Museum a proud Vietnamese heritage site.

The Temple of Literature, founded in 1070, was Vietnam’s first university. © Geri Bain

As we walk through the grand Gate of the Temple of Literature, we are amazed to realize that we are entering a university that was founded in 1070. The school was first open to members of the Royal families and later to exceptional students of other social classes. It stopped serving as a university in 1779, but it has never veered from its purpose to honor, worship and provide a place to learn the wisdom of Chinese philosopher Confucius. Students and their parents still come here to burn incense, make offerings and pray for success before important exams. We see people waiting their turn to touch a statue of a crane standing on the back of a turtle. We’re told that rubbing the belly of the crane and the head of the turtle bring good luck, and not just on exams. Never wanting to pass up a chance for positive energy, we respectfully take our turns as well. 

Couples seeking children are among those who bring offerings and pray at the One Pillar Pagoda, an 11th-century Buddhist site. © Geri Bain

Throughout our travels in Vietnam and Cambodia, we’ve come to appreciate how much architecture in this region is imbued with symbolic meaning. A great example is One Pillar Pagoda which dates back to 1048. The pagoda, which sits on a single pillar on a small lake, is designed to give form to a lotus flower like the one in a legendary dream by an 11th-century heirless emperor. He dreamt that the Buddhist goddess of mercy sat in a lotus flower on a lake and handed him an infant son.

When he did indeed have a son, he had this pagoda built in gratitude. The number three, which represents fertility, is symbolized by the three figures on the roof: two dragons (representing yang) gazing at a moon (representing yin). Inside, eight beams represent the eight petals of the lotus. The number of steps to the main hall—13—represents fertility and wealth. Although the temple has been rebuilt several times over the centuries, the architecture still embodies the spirit of the shrine. We observe a number of women placing offerings of flowers, fruit, wine, and trios of incense sticks in front of a shrine to the goddess of mercy to pray that they too will have a child.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum draws people from around the country who come to pay their respects.© Geri Bain

From what we’d read and seen on this trip, Ho Chi Minh–“Bac (uncle) Ho” as he is affectionately called—was a beloved selfless leader. Interestingly, he had stated in his will that he wanted to be cremated with his ashes buried in three regions of the country. But in 1969 when he died, his followers embalmed his body and built the grand mausoleum we are visiting today. We pass through security to enter the grounds of the Presidential Palace where the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is located. We wonder why there are no lines to enter and file past his glass coffin where people come to pay their respects and we learn that the mausoleum is closed for its annual maintenance.

Nevertheless, we’re impressed by the grandeur of the Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, which was inspired by and resembles Lenin’s Tomb, but with Vietnamese flourishes, and we sense the reverence it inspires. The setting is also impressive. The Mausoleum is across a large plaza/parade ground from the National Assembly and down the green we see the imposing Presidential Palace, built by the French during Hanoi’s colonial days. Uncle Ho declined to live there as he said it was too grand for a man of the people. Instead, a traditional stilted house was built for him on the grounds of the Palace.

This bronze bas relief celebrates the Trung Sisters’ heroic uprising against the Chinese. © Geri Bain

I had just read “Bronze Drum” by Phong Nguyen, a historical novel about the Trung Sisters who led a women’s uprising to overthrow the Han Chinese in 40 A.D., so I am excited when my daughter points out an exhibit devoted to them at the Vietnam National Museum of History. The sisters had used bronze drums to inspire and communicate with their warriors, and we admire an array of drums with intricate carvings.

The museum is divided into two buildings. The main building takes us from the first humans through the end of the Nguyen Dynasty in 1945 and is a great consolidation of the history we’ve been learning throughout our journey. The second building takes us from 1858 and the struggle against the French colonial government to the present.

As we admire the sculptures and artifacts of the many ethnic groups and cultures throughout Vietnam’s history, we get a sense of the depth and diversity of its people today. A constant theme is the nation’s long history of fighting to maintain and develop their own unique civilization and pushing back invaders.

The second building takes us from 1858 and the struggle against the French colonial government to the present. Photos, documents, artifacts and profiles of heroes tell the story of the struggle for independence and the rise of the Vietnamese Communist Party and then, the shift in 1985 to “Doi Moi,” the fast-growing, market-oriented economy that continues to this day.

The Vietnamese Women’s Museum offers unique exhibits like this one celebrating the Mother Goddesses of Three Realms. © Geri Bain

At the Vietnamese Women’s Museum, among the fascinating customs, we learn that in some Vietnamese ethnic groups, men must move into their bride’s home for several years after marriage. In others, there is a trial sleepover when the prospective groom stays in a guest room at the bride’s home. And in at least one matriarchal group, women choose their groom, he moves to her home, and the children take her last name.

Detailed exhibits cover women’s roles in family life, heroic women in history, and both ethnic and high women’s fashion. It’s among the best small museum’s we’ve seen; it’s well organized, well-labeled with short videos, and there’s an excellent audio tour.

Its mix of architectural styles, parks and shopping make Hanoi a great walking city. One minute, we are on a wide tree-shaded boulevard lined by elegant turn-of-the-century French buildings, the next we are in a twisting medieval alley in the Old Quarter, where many streets still have the names of ancient trades. Some, like Hang Gai (Silk Street), still reflect their current shops. The huge, buzzing Dong Xuan Market sells everything imaginable, but the goods seem oriented to locals and don’t match what we saw in Ho Chi Minh City for style or price.

We head to the elegant shopping streets and dip into some luxury brand shops expecting bargains, but prices seem higher than back home. We decide the best values are found in the artisan shops. We are especially drawn to the wonderful hand-made lacquerware at Hanoia, a small boutique near our hotel, and Tired City, which sells prints, bags and t-shirts featuring the art of over 200 local artists who receive 10% of every sale.

A 1902 train route that cuts through a narrow lane in the Old Quarter is still in use and now a tourist attraction. © Geri Bain

We take a coffee break at quirky “Train Street”, timing our visit for a train passage. This narrow ancient street is lined by small eateries with barely enough space for the train to zip through and it is fun to watch as we sip our new favorite drinks—hot or cold Vietnamese coffee made with condensed milk.

Our anchor as we explore Hanoi is Hoan Kiem Lake, just a few blocks from our hotel. Every evening, we join locals for a stroll around the lake. One night, we cross the pretty red Rising Sun (Huc) Bridge, where young couples pose for photos with the city lights as a backdrop. The bridge leads to the Ngoc Son Temple (Temple of the Jade Mountain), which sits in the middle of the lake. We are surprised to find a gatekeeper on duty at night. We pay the small admission fee and enjoy tranquil views of the city reflected in the lake. Inside, carvings depict Vietnamese history, folklore and Confucian literature.

Sitting in the middle of the lake, Ngoc Son Temple is especially lovely at night. © Geri Bain

From its start, this temple has honored both warriors and scholars, and stands as a symbol of Vietnamese resilience and pride. Built in the 19th century, the temple is dedicated to Van Xuong De Quan, a deity in charge of examination and education, and to the 13th century hero Tran Hung Dao (1231 – 1300), who led the Vietnamese army to repel two Mongol invasions.

A sign near a giant embalmed turtle and shrine explains how the lake got its name. According to legend, a god in the form of a turtle gave a magic sword to Le Loi, a l5th century leader of the Vietnamese rebellion against the Ming Chinese occupation. The sword empowered him to outsmart and defeat the Chinese. After his success, he returned to the lake and the turtle god reclaimed its sword. The lake became known as Hoan Kiem, “Lake of the Returned Sword”.  The legend is also commemorated in a picturesque monument, Turtle Tower, which sits on its own islet in the lake, one of the iconic symbols of Vietnam’s capital.

We leave Hanoi wishing we could stay longer. Another deep-tissue spa treatment. More time to relax in one of the ubiquitous cafes. More time to take in the vibes of this vibrant capital and to explore the history and legends of this fascinating and welcoming country.

Travel Tips

Many museums and sites close for lunch so check hours in advance. Also check for special shows and exhibitions; the Mother Goddess exhibition had specific but limited show times that we learned about too late.

Check with your doctor or a travel medicine specialist for recommendations on vaccinations and other health precautions, and the U.S. Department of State, CIA.gov and the CIA World Factbook for helpful country information.

Get the required visa at Vietnam’s website (evisa.gov.vn), where the fee is $25 (if you use a visa service it costs something like $197), and at Cambodia’s website (evisa.gov.kh), where the fee is $30, but give yourself enough time to get the confirmation. When filling out visa applications, flight and hotel reservations, note that dates in Vietnam and Cambodia are written day/month/year. I almost booked my flight for the wrong date. (April 1, 2025 should be written 01/04/2025).

See also:

AMAWATERWAYS’ MEKONG LUXURY CRUISE THROUGH VIETNAM AND CAMBODIA: HO CHI MINH CITY AND THE MEKONG

AMAWATERWAYS’ VIETNAM-CAMBODIA MEKONG CRUISE: THE CAMBODIAN MEKONG AND SIEM REAP

__________________

© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures 

AmaWaterways’Vietnam-Cambodia Mekong Cruise: The Cambodian Mekong and Siem Reap

AmaWaterways’ Mekong River cruise takes us deep into the cultures of southern Vietnam and Cambodia (Photo: Courtesy of AmaWaterways)

by Geri Bain for Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

My 30-year-old-daughter and I are on a week-long AmaWaterways Mekong River cruise. Our journey starts with two pre-cruise days based at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza exploring Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam before setting out on AmaWaterways’ five-star, 64-cabin AmaDara. We have completed the Vietnam portion of our cruise, featured in Part 1, and have crossed the border into Cambodia. Here, in Part 2 of our three-part series, we share highlights from our cruise through Cambodia and our stay in Siem Reap.

On day three of our AmaWaterways Mekong River cruise, we wake up to find our ship docked in Phnom Penh, where we will spend the next two nights. During our time in Vietnam, we anchored mid-river and tendered ashore; we are excited that for the next two nights we are docked right in town near a lively riverside park and can walk or take a tuk tuk (motorized rickshaw-style taxi) to the market, temples and other sites when we are not touring. 

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is still used for religious and royal ceremonies ©Geri Bain

The Royal Palace complex, our first destination in Cambodia, takes our breath away with its gilded storybook Khmer architecture. Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy and this complex is the official royal residence as well as a key religious and educational center. Finn, our guide, explains the religious icons and the meaning woven into the architecture. For example, Nagas, which often take the form of multi-headed semi-divine snakes, are used to form balustrades and climb the steep, slanted roofs of buildings, symbolically connecting earth and the heavens. We learn more at our next stop, the National Museum, where Finn shares important Hindu and Buddhist stories behind the sculptures and bas reliefs on display.

At the Genocide Museum, we meet one of only seven men known to have survived the Sleng S21Detention Center torture camp © GeriBain

In the afternoon, we tour Sleng S21 Detention Center, now a Genocide Museum, where AmaWaterways has arranged for us to meet with one of only seven men known to have survived this torture camp. He has written a book about the horrors he’s seen. Our next stop, as it was for many S21 prisoners, is the infamous Choeung Ek Killing Fields, an extermination camp where the inhumanity is even more startling. Here, mass graves labeled with the number of men, women and children they contain and the skull-filled memorial tower are among the shocking things we witness there.

This Memorial Stupa displays more than 8,000 skulls and the blunt weapons that took their lives at the Choeung Ek Killing Fields © GeriBain

Most of us were aware of the Khmer Rouge genocide, but the scale and cruelty are unfathomable. It’s believed that at least 1.5 million Cambodians—about a fourth of the population—were murdered from 1975 to 1979 and many more died under the harsh conditions of forced labor camps. It is amazing to realize that most Cambodians alive today either lived through the genocide themselves or have relatives who survived (or perished) during that terror-filled period.

Khmer dancers come aboard our ship to perform and explain folkloric stories of love and deities told in stylized movements. ©GeriBain

Our moods lift that evening at a pre-dinner performance by a local Khmer dance troupe, whose stylized hand gestures and movements tell classical and folkloric stories.

At the Oudong monastery, we chat with two monks who answer questions about their rigorous routine and why they chose to be monks © GeriBain

The positive spirit carries into our next day at the Oudong monastery. As we enter its impressive prayer hall, awash in brilliant religious paintings, a giant Buddha statue seems to look down benevolently at us. We seat ourselves on the temple floor. Buddhist monks walk in and sit cross-legged facing our group. Before bestowing a blessing on us, one of the monks, in perfect English, answers our questions and tells us about their lives and the importance of blessings in Cambodian life, where more than 93 percent of the population is Buddhist. During the 15-minute blessing ceremony, their chanting resounds hypnotically through the grand temple, drawing to a close with a gentle scattering of lotus flowers.

Silk worm cocoons are carefully reeled into thread © GeriBain

Over the next few days, we get a sense of rural and religious life on visits to a number of temples and small villages. Highlights include an ox-cart ride to a small temple, a visit to a school where we pair off with students to practice their English and a stop at “Silk Island” where we are shown the painstaking process of weaving silk fabric, from mulberry trees and silk worms to cocoons. We watch cocoons being “reeled” into thread that is dyed, set into hand looms and woven into iridescent scarfs, ties, and other products.

Angkor Ban is a rustic, remote village where traditional wooden homes are raised on stilts © GeriBain

One of my favorite excursions is to Angkor Ban, a small agricultural village where people live in wooden homes raised on stilts, and we are guests of a friendly local couple who show us around their home and talk about their children and grandchildren. Leading us along its dirt roads, Finn points out the offerings families place at the small gilded ancestor shrines set on posts in their front yards, the oxen, tethered or fenced near many of the homes, and the daytime activities, many of which take place in the shady under stories of the stilted houses. 

Our last stop is Kampong Cham. We dock next to a riverside park where we see locals picnicking, exercising to music in small groups, and socializing. We are sad that our cruise is coming to an end. One of the things we love about AmaWaterways is that we tour in small “families” and our guides—one for each country—travel on board with us. The continuity helps fosters a deeper understanding of the culture as our guides build on their narratives. It also creates a familial feeling with them and our fellow travelers. Many of us exchange addresses. Marveling at how much we have seen and done, it’s hard to believe we have only been cruising for a week. We leave the AmaDara with a sense of life in the Mekong region that we could never have fathomed on our own.

Following the Cambodian Royal Guard tradition, the doormen at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor wear silk pantaloons—a different color for each day of the week. ©GeriBain

AmaWaterways transports us by bus to Siem Reap, where we check into the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor, a cultural icon that blends French Art Deco architecture with Khmer (Cambodian) art and design. It also showcases ancient Khmer art as well as contemporary Khmer art curated by gallery owner Nat Di Maggio, who offers guided art tours for hotel guests. Other hotel activities include daily monk blessings, morning yoga, and botanical, history, garden and other tours. (www.raffles.com/siem-reap)

Statues of ancient warriors and other heroes © GeriBain

Across the street is one of the royal residences of the King Norodom Sihamonia. We stroll through the public Royal Gardens and stop to listen to the prayers at a popular shrine where people come with candles, incense sticks, lotus flowers and other offerings. We return to the hotel in time for afternoon tea—or in my case, the condensed-milk sweetened Cambodian coffee I have come to love—and then head around the corner to the Angkor National Museum which presents a cultural history of the Khmer civilization that proudly conveys how far-reaching and advanced the Khmer Empire once was.

That evening we indulge in a memorable tasting menu of Cambodian specialties, including corn cake with coconut sauce and snow fish with sweet and sour sauce, at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant,1932. The restaurant takes its name from the year the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor opened to satisfy the burgeoning interest in Angkor Wat, just a few miles away. After dinner, we walk to the lively nightlife area, a chic modern area of bars, restaurants and sidewalk cafe-style eateries.

Angkor Wat’s 12th century temple, featured on Cambodia’s flag, look especially magical at sunrise. ©GeriBain

We set our alarm for 4 a.m. so we can watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, a long-standing tradition. Seeing the reddish hues sweeping over the temples and reflected in the huge surrounding moat is well worth early wake-up and we enjoy the generous backpack breakfast Raffles sends with us. We’ve arranged for a private tour, which allows us to go at our own pace and tour several nearby temples, including Banteay Srei. We’re amazed at how well preserved it is – its exquisitely detailed 10th century carvings seem untouched by time.

We visit at the atmospheric Ta Prohm site, where trees have intertwined with the temple, during the filming of a movie. @GeriBain

The 800-year-old Ta Prohm Temple, a.k.a “Tomb Raider Temple” feels especially wonderful—not because the site starred in the the 2001 film starring Angelina Jolie—but because climbing around it gives me the feeling that we are explorers discovering something for the first time. Here, tree roots are spreading over and digging into the stone buildings, and I can imagine how archaeologists felt when they first began discovering the many temples in this region.

After sniffing me with its trunk, an elephant pauses to pose with me on a walk through the Kelen Elephant Forest.

Before leaving Cambodia, we spend a morning at the Kulen Elephant Forest, where elephants that once worked under cruel conditions at Angkor Wat are protected and lovingly cared for. We notice torn ears and other evidence of their hard past; now they seem happy to be among people. Their handlers show us how to make treats that they eat from our hands and then we stroll with these gentle giants through the forest, watching them interact with each other. We stop at along the way and allow them to sniff us with their trunks as we pet their rough, thick skin and feed them a treat. These elephants, that have been through truly horrific times, seem to harbor no grudges and to be striding resiliently into the future, much like the people of the region. My short voyage through Vietnam and Cambodia has not been a sightseeing trip; it has been a timeless journey into resilient cultures that will live within me forever.

Next, we fly back to Vietnam and spend three days exploring Hanoi, which you can read about in our next installment.

The basics:

In 2025, AmaWaterways offers one-week Mekong River trips, except during May, June, and July, traveling between Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and Siem Reap, Cambodia. Prices start at around $2,320 and include transfers between the ship and Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap and all sightseeing, wi-fi, meals, and on-board programs. Airfare (discounted fares are available), visa fees, bar drinks (alcoholic beverages with meals are included), port charges (about $210 per person) and suggested tips ($80 per person for the crew) and $20-$25 for the cruise manager are extra. AmaWaterways also offers a choice of all-inclusive pre- and post-cruise options. The most comprehensive is eight nights, including Ho Chi Minh City, Siem Reap/Angkor Wat, Hanoi, and Ha Long Bay, priced at $2,779 per person. (AmaWaterways.com)

Credit cards are accepted most places, but not everywhere. In Cambodia, where the U.S. dollar is an official currency, you’ll find it helpful to have small bills on hand. 

Be sure to check with your doctor or a travel medicine specialist for recommendations on vaccinations and other health precautions, and the U.S. Department of State, CIA.gov and the CIA World Factbook for helpful country information.

Note when filling out visa applications, flight and hotel reservations that dates in Vietnam and Cambodia are written day/month/year. I almost booked my flight for the wrong date. (April 1, 2025 would be written 01/04/2025).

Next: Museum Hopping and Shopping in Hanoi

See also:

AMAWATERWAYS’ MEKONG LUXURY CRUISE THROUGH VIETNAM AND CAMBODIA: HO CHI MINH CITY AND THE MEKONG

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures 

AmaWaterways’ Mekong Luxury Cruise through Vietnam and Cambodia: Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong

We explore the watery Tra Su Cajuput Forest by boat and on foot. ©GeriBain

by Geri Bain for Travel Features Syndicate, goingplacesfarandnear.com

Silently, our rowboat glides through waters thick with lotus flowers, water lilies, and vegetation and along narrow passageways lined by towering evergreen cajuput (melaleuca) trees whose outstretched branches host hundreds of nesting birds. Later, we hike to an observatory tower for panoramic views of the 2100-acre Tra Su Cajuput Forest and Bird Sanctuary, which shelters over 70 bird species.

We are in Vietnam, and this is one of many amazing tours my 30-year-old-daughter and I enjoy on a week-long AmaWaterways Mekong River cruise. We are traveling on the five-star AmaDara. Our cruise begins in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam and ends in Siem Reap, Cambodia.  Here, in the first of a three-part story, we share highlights from our journey through southern Vietnam.

The Sofitel Saigon Plaza Hotel’s welcoming elephant statue has its trunk up to convey positive energy and good fortune.  ©GeriBain

Our trip begins with two pre-cruise nights at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City. The hotel is within walking distance of almost everything we want to see, and its rooftop pool and Bremiere spa are great for unwinding after our 26-hour journey from New York City.

The Sofitel reflects the city’s blend of French Colonial and traditional and modern Vietnamese influences in its decor, service and dining. The lobby has a croissant/pastry cart as well as an area displaying and selling fine local lacquerware and other crafts. It has both French and Vietnamese restaurants, and an extensive breakfast buffet that features Pho (soup) made to order, a croissant and pastry station and extensive selections of foods from around the world.

ST25 by KOTO is a high-end restaurant with the lofty mission of educating and hiring disadvantaged youth.   ©GeriBain

Our favorite meal in Ho Chi Minh City is at ST25 by KOTO, our hotel’s tony Vietnamese restaurant. It is popular with locals and guests for its ambiance and its creative twist on traditional dishes like spiced Barramundi (fish) roasted in banana leaves with mắm tôm sauce (fermented shrimp paste). It takes its name from the acclaimed Vietnamese rice variety, ST25.

One of the wonderful things about this restaurant is that it trains, hires and supports at-risk and disadvantaged youth, and the training is in life-skills, not just hospitality. Everyone working there has come through the program, including our personable maitre d. The service is impeccable and every dish is an artfully presented unique treat, from the yellowtail kingfish in avocado puree and black sesame appetizer to the Barramundi, a delicious fish roasted in banana leaves with chili, turmeric, spring onion and a mắm tôm sauce (fermented shrimp paste).

A friend had advised us to pack lightly and bring an empty suitcase because Vietnam prices warranted buying a whole new wardrobe. The values are definitely there; two shopping experiences stand out.

Phuong Giang tailor shop has books of styles and bolts of fabric to choose from.  ©GeriBain

The first is Phuong Giang, a small shop that came highly recommended, where we page through style books, select a fabric and get measured; the dress is delivered to our hotel the next day for a follow-up fitting at the time we request. The cost is under $75.

Also memorable is Ben Thanh Market, a bustling, clean and orderly indoor market that sells everything from running track suits to suitcases at jaw-droppingly low prices. For example, Nike shirts and shorts are about $5. I buy a chic pleated maxi dress for $18 USD that is similar to ones I’d seen for more than $100 in the U.S.

The Museum of South Vietnamese Women has an extensive exhibit on the many varieties of traditional women’s clothing among the region’s many ethnic groups.  ©GeriBain

Happily, the museums in Ho Chi Minh City we visit have excellent English signage. We start out at Independence Palace, a.k.a. Reunification Palace, the opulent former seat of French Colonial and South Vietnamese governments, where we see the stately meeting rooms where diplomats and heads of state were greeted, held important meetings and were entertained, and the War Remnants Museum, where news clippings, photos, munitions and other artifacts reveal the ravages of the “American War.”

Since we’re especially interested in learning more about the cultural and historic roots of Vietnam, we visit two other excellent museums: the Museum of South Vietnamese Women, which focuses on women’s roles in farming, family and war during more than 1,000 years of foreign invasions, and the History Museum of Ho Chi Minh City, whose exhibits start with prehistoric times. We spend about two to three hours in each and they provide great context for the sights we will see during our cruise.

AmaWaterways’ Mekong River cruise takes us deep into the cultures of southern Vietnam and Cambodia (Photo courtesy of AmaWaterways)

On our third morning, we meet up with our AmaWaterways group in the hotel lobby and board buses for a lively, informative ride to our home for the next seven nights, the AmaDara. Built in Vietnam, the five-star, 62-cabin river cruise ship reflects the Mekong’s French Colonial and Asian aesthetic in its hardwood floors, wood furnishings, and colorful artwork depicting local life.

Exploring the ship, we find a small air-conditioned workout space, three spa treatment rooms, a plunge pool, large indoor and outdoor cocktail/coffee lounges and a large dining room. Before dinner, Huy, our energetic and knowledgeable cruise manager, provides the first of our daily talks about the destinations we’ll visit. We begin getting to know some of our crew members, who are almost all from the region.

We appreciate that the dining room always serves a choice of several regional foods like sweet and salty pork bowl and fish “amok”, cooked in a rich, spiced coconut milk sauce, as well as international dishes. And we love that menu items are plated and displayed with a list of ingredients as we enter the dining room—especially helpful for some less familiar dishes.

After a performance by local folk musicians, we are invited to try their exotic instruments. ©GeriBain

After dinner, a group of folk musicians comes aboard to perform. The music is unlike Western music and each musician demonstrates their instrument before performing.  Then, after the performance, we are invited to chat with the musicians and if we like, try out their instruments.

The next morning, I join a pre-breakfast stretch class on the sundeck with Hanna, the ship’s wellness coach. She offers a surprising number of daily yoga, qigong and other classes, and I can still hear her gentle reminders to breathe deeply and take in the healthy air of the Mekong.

Our next two days in Vietnam are packed with adventure and our days take on a rhythm of morning excursions, a refreshing midday break and lunch on board the ship in air-conditioned comfort, and then a second set of activities in the afternoon. We opt for the active excursions which have more walking or add a second site to the standard tour.

Cobras are bottled in wine, but our guide warns about possible adverse effects of their toxin. ©GeriBain

After breakfast, we head out in sampans (traditional small boats) to a candy and rice-paper workshop in Cai Be, where we watch and sample each step of the candy process, see rice paper being made by hand, and visit their small local crafts shop. We taste some local liquors, but on the advice of our guide, we skip the snake wine.

Active travelers continue on for a guided walk through Dong Hoa Hiep, an ancient village of fruit tree groves and ornate historic homes. The highlight is Mr. Kiet’s Ancient House, a faithfully restored upper-class 1838 home with intricately carved wooden archways and doors and a fine collection of antique furnishings, many with luminescent inlaid nacre. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage site, the home is still occupied by the widow of Mr Kiet, who operates a small restaurant in the orchard garden.

Mr Kiet’s Ancient House Shrine©GeriBain

Phuc, our guide, points out the three impressive ancestor shrines in the entry room which include photos of deceased relatives, religious statues, candles, incense burners and offerings of fruit and other items. He tells us that most Vietnamese homes have ancestor shrines near their entrance or in a prominent location; the richer the family, the more elaborate the shrine. He explains that departed family members are thought to watch over their descendants and offerings at the altars allow the living to show their gratitude and remain connected. The three shrines here are quite grand.

The Divine Eye looking out from behind the altar at the Cao Dai Temple is a reminder to worshippers that God is all-seeing and omnipresent.  ©GeriBain

Our afternoon tour takes us to the wet market in Sa Dec, where we see live eels, snake fish, snails and duck embryos, still in the shell, which are a local delicacy. From there, we board sampans and boat over to the Cao Dai Temple, where brilliant paintings and sculptures illustrate the beliefs of this home-grown Vietnamese monotheistic religion. Combining elements of Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism, Christianity, Vietnamese folk religions and other practices, the Cao Dai religion is now the third largest religion in Vietnam.

On our last morning in Vietnam, we have two options: a trishaw tour of a village, stopping at silk and rattan workshops and a home visit, or an excursion to the Tra Su Cajuput Forest and Bird Sanctuary. Based on conversations with fellow passengers over dinner that evening, there was no wrong choice. We opt for nature, and are thrilled to have the chance to see this pristine eco-system.

This afternoon, we are required to remain on-board as the boat clears customs into Cambodia. AmaWaterways has collected our passports, arranges our visas and takes care of all the details. We take the opportunity to experience the region’s special deep-tissue massage spa treatments and join a cooking class. 

It’s only been three days since we set out on AmaWaterways’ AmaDara, but it feels like much longer because of all we’ve seen and done. Our guide, Phuc, who lives in Ho Chi Minh City, must leave us at the border. He has been more than our guide; he has shared stories about his family and taught so much about Vietnamese culture and everyday life in the Mekong. We are sad to bid him farewell as we prepare to sail across the border to Cambodia. At the same time, we are excited for tomorrow, when we will wake up in Cambodia’s exotic capital, Phnom Penh.

The basics:

In 2025, AmaWaterways offers one-week Mekong River trips, except during May, June, and July, traveling between Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and Siem Reap, Cambodia. Prices start at around $2,320 and include transfers between the ship and Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap and all sightseeing, wi-fi, meals, and on-board programs. Extra charges include airfare (discounted fares are available), visa fees, bar drinks (alcoholic beverages with meals are included), port charges (about $210 p.p.) and suggested tips ($80 per passenger for the crew and $20-$25 for the cruise manager). AmaWaterways also offers a choice of all-inclusive pre- and post-cruise options. The most comprehensive is eight nights, including stays in Ho Chi Minh City, Siem Reap/Angkor Wat,, and Ha Long Bay, and all transportation, priced at $2,779 per person.

Flights from the U.S. can take well over 20 hours. As with all cruises, it’s important to arrive at least a day early in case of flight delays. Considering the time change and potential for jet lag, I’d suggest a minimum two-night pre-cruise cushion—more if you have time. 

Bargaining in markets is expected. Generally, when we tell a merchant we will think about it and start to walk away, the price drops. Then, we may ask if that is the best they can do, and the price sometimes drops again. If it’s a big purchase, it’s smart to stop at a few booths to get a sense of pricing and quality.

Be sure to check with your doctor or a travel medicine specialist for recommendations on vaccinations and other health precautions, and the U.S. Department of State, CIA.gov and the CIA World Factbook for helpful country information.

Note when filling out visa applications, flight and hotel reservations that dates in Vietnam and Cambodia are written day/month/year. I almost booked my flight for the wrong date. (April 1, 2025 would be written 01/04/2025).

Get the required visa at Vietnam’s website (evisa.gov.vn), where the fee is $25 (if you use a visa service it costs something like $197), and at Cambodia’s website (evisa.gov.kh), where the fee is $30, but give yourself enough time to get the confirmation.

Useful contacts:

AmaWaterways.com

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor Siem Reap

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Hotel

Next: AmaWaterways Cruises to Cambodia

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© 2025 Travel Features Syndicate, a division of Workstyles, Inc. All rights reserved. Visit goingplacesfarandnear.com and travelwritersmagazine.com/TravelFeaturesSyndicate/. Blogging at goingplacesnearandfar.wordpress.com and moralcompasstravel.info. Visit instagram.com/going_places_far_and_near and instagram.com/bigbackpacktraveler/ Send comments or questions to FamTravLtr@aol.com. Bluesky: @newsphotosfeatures.bsky.social X: @TravelFeatures Threads: @news_and_photo_features ‘Like’ us at facebook.com/NewsPhotoFeatures